jblz51
Otto, MO, USA
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Do you have a way of putting the TT closer to the main panel? If so, even if it costs some grass in the yard for the week, it will save you a bundle on the wire cost.
Josh
1991 Jayco Eagle 220
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prov431
NC
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md2lgyk wrote:You've obviously got a big problem somewhere. My TT receptacle is nearly 100 ft from the main panel in my house. I ran 8/3 wire for it and have no problems with the air conditioner or anything else electrical.
I doubt that....the AC unit on my trailer is 15,000 btu, 20amp...probably at the limit of anything 120vac powered.
I'm going to price a dedicated #6 awg 30a circuit from the main panel and see how it goes.
Dan
N. Carolina
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Jimehc
Taylorsville, Kentucky
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Quote:Voltage drops to 104-105 every time the compressor tries to load up
You are saying that this is loaded voltage - at the trailer?? (I assume)
Since I have a 125' run of 10/2 running from a 30A breaker in my panel to my RV plug - without issue.. Can run A/C, Water heater and Microwave and not trip anything...
My no load voltage is 116v
My voltage with the A/C "running" is 112v and with the water heater just turned on is 109v and with the added microwave load it drops to 105v at a trailer receptacle
Do a "loaded" voltage drop test at various connection point along your trailers new cable run, panel breaker, tub panel, RV receptacle and then a trailer outlet - using a high draws device (ie electric heater) plugged into a trailer outlet..
And see if it is a consistent voltage drop..
* This post was
edited 07/25/10 09:52am by Jimehc *
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prov431
NC
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Jimehc wrote:Quote:Voltage drops to 104-105 every time the compressor tries to load up
You are saying that this is loaded voltage - at the trailer?? (I assume)
Since I have a 125' run of 10/2 running from a 30A breaker in my panel to my RV plug - without issue.. Can run A/C, Water heater and Microwave and not trip anything...
My no load voltage is 116v
My voltage with the A/C "running" is 112v and with the water heater just turned on is 109v and with the added microwave load it drops to 105v at a trailer receptacle
Do a "loaded" voltage drop test at various connection point along your trailers new cable run, panel breaker, tub panel, RV receptacle and then a trailer outlet - using a high draws device (ie electric heater) plugged into a trailer outlet..
And see if it is a consistent voltage drop..
No load at TT was 120v, ac compressor trying to load dropped it to 105 or 107 on a closer wire run. I didn't test microwave, etc for similar volt drop as I'm guessing it won't matter...the ac isn't getting enough volts to run the compressor. I probably need a single dedicated 6 awg run from my main panel to the tt or I'll never get the proper voltage at the distance I'm at.
Again, my ac unit is 15000 btu 20a, probably maxed out on a 120v long cable run. If it was the smaller 12500 or 13000 btu it might have worked.
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john b
anywhere USA!
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Empty Nest, Soon wrote:I think you'll find that your last 25' run of AWG 10 wire (shore power cord) will be okay if the other wires leading to it are bigger and don't also contribute to voltage loss.
Wayne
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mayo30
Lanigan
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Bob Landry wrote:mayo30 wrote:What was your voltage at the TT during startup?Did you figure out your voltage loss per length and size of conductor?
Wire for AC is sized according to load and length of run, not voltage drop as in figuring DC wiring.
Ok so it doesn't matter what size conducter you run for a micro wave,heater etc?The A/C has a certain load as does every other device.If you require 30 amps. at a certain voltage,conducter size and length do matter.I think the need will be more then just the A/C.
DC is also relevant if not high enough AC for the load, DC control voltage also varies with ac fluctuations.
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cajoctaw
Hattiesburg, MS
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We just ran 70 feet of 10/2 wire from panel at firehouse to outside receptacle.
Did it Friday afternoon.
It took about an hour.
All it took was 30 amp breaker, wire, receptacle, box, and some "smurf pipe".
It is running just fine, and no problems.
I think the OP would be better off running his line straight off breaker panel rather than tying into existing load.
But that's just me.
BTW, you aren't going to be able to run AC and Microwave at the same time, even if you do go to breaker box.
Too much draw and it will kick breaker every time
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prov431
NC
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Here is an update: I figured out the problem....and it wasn't what I expected.
RV A/C manufacturer website
Actual wiring diagram
Also being discussed here
My Coleman Mach 15,000 btu A/C unit:
Model 8335-D 8564 guess what the "5" stands for?
No OPTIONAL starting components (AKA Starting capacitor)
The tech that I spoke too had my answer in 2 seconds after I described my problem and gave my model #.
Best part......he offered to send me a complete "starting device kit" free of charge!
So there you have it.
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Jimehc
Taylorsville, Kentucky
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Joined: 07/01/2010
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Good thing you found out the issue - as I really did not think it was your wiring, based on my testing voltages...
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BurbMan
Louisville, KY
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I have about a 60' run from my main panel to the TT outlet and 10/3 works just fine. Heck, before I ran the 30A service, I used to plug the TT into a 15A garage outlet with a 50' 12/3 extension cord and run the a/c with no issues. I've also ran a 25' 10/3 TT extension cord at some CGs and never had a problem.
Do yourself a favor and check all of the lugs and connections in the main TT panel. You may have a loose connection either at the main or the branch that feeds the a/c. The fact that it ran great at the last CG means nothing, the problem could have developed on the way home.
Even with the jury rig you have to the hot tub you shouldn't be seeing that much voltage drop, if you've got #8 running back to the panel.
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