mayo30 wrote: You got it.Think capacitor for the AC.
No. That may help the compresor if it's starting hard, but it won't fix the low voltage problem and that's what's happening. The OP's description of how everything is wired is thouroghly confusing, but it looks like he's getting an excessive voltage drop.
A running capacitor is probably what's needed, and it's probably not in my options list.
Dan
N. Carolina
2012 Forest River V-Cross Platinum 32VBHS 36' UL 7,500#
Husky Centerline WDH
Tekonsha Primus IQ Brake Control
Rear View Wired Camera
TRD Supercharged 2008 Toyota Tundra Crewmax (505 hp,550 torque )
2wd 5.7, 4.30 gear (10,400 tow cap.)
If you are getting voltage drop in multiple locations, I would look for something common to all.That would be the TT. Check your shore power cord for darkening around the prongs. Also check the inlet on the trailer if your shorepower cord is not attached directly to the converter.
Also, try another high load device, water heater, hair dryer, coffee pot, and see ifyou still get a drop. I'm betting you will get a voltage drop regardless of what you have plugged in. 1-2 volts is acceptable, more is not.
Bob Landry wrote: If you are getting voltage drop in multiple locations, I would look for something common to all.That would be the TT. Check your shore power cord for darkening around the prongs. Also check the inlet on the trailer if your shorepower cord is not attached directly to the converter.
Also, try another high load device, water heater, hair dryer, coffee pot, and see ifyou still get a drop. I'm betting you will get a voltage drop regardless of what you have plugged in. 1-2 volts is acceptable, more is not.
Good advice...
The TT is a 2010 model, only been used a few weeks since I bought it. The AC worked fine when we were at the last campsite, and I also had no issues with the electric hot water.
I really think the TT electric cord is part of the problem, it's only 10 gauge wire....and probably the main restriction in the circuit that I had tried with both set ups. I think anything more than the 25 feet length supplied with the camper is just too much if not plugging in directly at a hook up.
I might open up the converter box, just to take a look at the connection though....I have no clue how it's wired up as I've never had a good reason to look.....yet!
Bob Landry wrote: If you are getting voltage drop in multiple locations, I would look for something common to all.That would be the TT. Check your shore power cord for darkening around the prongs. Also check the inlet on the trailer if your shorepower cord is not attached directly to the converter.
Also, try another high load device, water heater, hair dryer, coffee pot, and see ifyou still get a drop. I'm betting you will get a voltage drop regardless of what you have plugged in. 1-2 volts is acceptable, more is not.
Good advice...
The TT is a 2010 model, only been used a few weeks since I bought it. The AC worked fine when we were at the last campsite, and I also had no issues with the electric hot water.
I really think the TT electric cord is part of the problem, it's only 10 gauge wire....and probably the main restriction in the circuit that I had tried with both set ups. I think anything more than the 25 feet length supplied with the camper is just too much if not plugging in directly at a hook up.
I might open up the converter box, just to take a look at the connection though....I have no clue how it's wired up as I've never had a good reason to look.....yet!
10ga is good for 30A, and I've even run it for 50' with no issues. Anything longer really needs to be sized up. I think yu'll find your problem when you check the cord ends and the TT inlet. If there is any discoloration at all, replace whatever it needs. One thing that will help yu with that in the future is to plug into your source power before you turn on the breaker in the trailer. if it's plugged in with no load, you won't get an arc and burned plugs.
I think you'll find that your last 25' run of AWG 10 wire (shore power cord) will be okay if the other wires leading to it are bigger and don't also contribute to voltage loss.
Wayne
Wayne & Michelle
2004 Pioneer 19T4
1998 GMC 2500HD, 5.7L, HD 5-speed, 3.73
Good advice...
The TT is a 2010 model, only been used a few weeks since I bought it. The AC worked fine when we were at the last campsite, and I also had no issues with the electric hot water.
I really think the TT electric cord is part of the problem, it's only 10 gauge wire....and probably the main restriction in the circuit that I had tried with both set ups. I think anything more than the 25 feet length supplied with the camper is just too much if not plugging in directly at a hook up.
I might open up the converter box, just to take a look at the connection though....I have no clue how it's wired up as I've never had a good reason to look.....yet!
You're getting good advice. Being a retired sparky, I'll weigh in with an observation. Your trailer wire is designed for your anticipated load. If you hook up to 30 amp outlets with 10/3, you're golden with the provided length of power cord. This has been proven as true with your camping area hookups with no problems.
What you're attempting to do "problem" resides in your residence hookup. When I rigged residential outlets for RV's, I came off the main panel. No where else. Your description of your first "wiring" is confusing, to say the least. The KISS principle applies here. If you're approaching 100 feet from your main panel, go with 6-3 (no wiring breaks in the feed) at a minimum. This gauge is normally used for 50 amp stoves. I say 6-3 because you're going to play hob finding 6-2 unless you jury rig the installation with a pair of 6's, plus ground (you're back to 6-3 with redesignated colors). The voltage drop is killing you otherwise. Plus, you're making several diffent connections in various boxes....These don't help.
Your trailer is correct.....your feeder wiring needs fixing...correctly. By the way, you are having this installation inspected, right? You may think of this as a temporary situation, but, insurance inspectors look for uninspected electrical causes to void claims.
Good advice...
The TT is a 2010 model, only been used a few weeks since I bought it. The AC worked fine when we were at the last campsite, and I also had no issues with the electric hot water.
I really think the TT electric cord is part of the problem, it's only 10 gauge wire....and probably the main restriction in the circuit that I had tried with both set ups. I think anything more than the 25 feet length supplied with the camper is just too much if not plugging in directly at a hook up.
I might open up the converter box, just to take a look at the connection though....I have no clue how it's wired up as I've never had a good reason to look.....yet!
You're getting good advice. Being a retired sparky, I'll weigh in with an observation. Your trailer wire is designed for your anticipated load. If you hook up to 30 amp outlets with 10/3, you're golden with the provided length of power cord. This has been proven as true with your camping area hookups with no problems.
What you're attempting to do "problem" resides in your residence hookup. When I rigged residential outlets for RV's, I came off the main panel. No where else. Your description of your first "wiring" is confusing, to say the least. The KISS principle applies here. If you're approaching 100 feet from your main panel, go with 6-3 (no wiring breaks in the feed) at a minimum. This gauge is normally used for 50 amp stoves. I say 6-3 because you're going to play hob finding 6-2 unless you jury rig the installation with a pair of 6's, plus ground (you're back to 6-3 with redesignated colors). The voltage drop is killing you otherwise. Plus, you're making several diffent connections in various boxes....These don't help.
Your trailer is correct.....your feeder wiring needs fixing...correctly. By the way, you are having this installation inspected, right? You may think of this as a temporary situation, but, insurance inspectors look for uninspected electrical causes to void claims.
I agree with the 6/3 run from my main panel, although it I'll probably skip the entire thing since I'd need to buy roughly $200 in wire, another breaker, etc. It would be right at $300 when it was all done (correctly) Not what I was looking at for just a weeks worth of running the AC in the TT at home.
Good learning experience though.
You've obviously got a big problem somewhere. My TT receptacle is nearly 100 ft from the main panel in my house. I ran 8/3 wire for it and have no problems with the air conditioner or anything else electrical.
"The great object is, that every man be armed. Everyone who is able may have a gun." - Patrick Henry
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