Chris Bryant
DeLand, Florida, USA
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Joined: 03/26/2003
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96Bounder30E wrote:Chris Bryant wrote:Buy a Dometic reigniter, p/n 293113201P and hook it to a switch and the electrode. It won't be all electronic, but it will reignite the flame if it blows out.
Re-engineering the whole system would cost more than selling it and buying an all electronic model, if the even make one your size.
Chris.............is that part number supposed to be a "P" or a "9"?
The "P" just means it is packaged for retail sale.
-- Chris Bryant
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CROSSBOLT
Whiteville, TN USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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OK, stacas, try this: test your thermocouple with your meter and some kinda torch see if you get at least 12 millivolts when you heat up the bulb end-the part that goes in the flame. Then check for continuity on the ECO where the thermocouple screws into the control valve.
Karl
Karl
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stacaz822
Phoenix, Arizona
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Joined: 10/21/2005
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So I still have to light the fridge manually, as I always have, by holding down the gas valve knob in the "light" position, turning on the power to the igniter-reigniter with the switch I will make, and it should start sparking until the flame is lit. At that point I can release the knob and leave it on "high" setting. Then if the flame goes out, the thermocouple that keeps the gas valve on should not have time to cool down before the igniter module re-lights the flame, since the igniter module uses the electrical resistance between the end of the electrode and the base of the burner to determine if there is a flame or not--and that should be nearly instantaneous.
If the re-ignitor does not restart the flame in time, the thermocouple could still shut off the gas valve, and I would need to manually re-light. Hopefully it will re-light quickly enough for that not to happen.
Stacaz
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