Chris Bryant
DeLand, Florida, USA
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Joined: 03/26/2003
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stacaz822 wrote:By switch, do you mean a flame sensor or a manual switch, that makes it spark the electrode?
I am not sure how the re-igniter works. What are its inputs and outputs?
Just a simple on off switch for the reigniter. It has 4 wires- you need 3, and the 4th is optional. The connections are +12 v, ground, spark and an indicator lamp.
It's basically the UIB spark side without the valve control. Put power to it, it will spark until the flame ignites, then stop sparking until the flame goes out. It is what the models just a bit larger than yours use.
-- Chris Bryant
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96Bounder30E
America is my home!
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&srGet yourself a BBQ ignitor like the one linked to below.......wire it so it's constantly igniting while you are driving down the road........when you get stopped go back and turn it off......
My dad had a similar device on his first truck camper fridge that continually blew the flame out.......it worked really well except when he forgot to turn it off and crawled into bed.......when it got real quite you could here it going...........tick..........tick... ..tick..........
BBQ ignitor
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stacaz822
Phoenix, Arizona
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Chris Bryant wrote:stacaz822 wrote:By switch, do you mean a flame sensor or a manual switch, that makes it spark the electrode?
I am not sure how the re-igniter works. What are its inputs and outputs?
Just a simple on off switch for the reigniter. It has 4 wires- you need 3, and the 4th is optional. The connections are +12 v, ground, spark and an indicator lamp.
It's basically the UIB spark side without the valve control. Put power to it, it will spark until the flame ignites, then stop sparking until the flame goes out. It is what the models just a bit larger than yours use.
I got all that straightened out in the posts right above the one you quoted. It uses the resistance between the ignitor end and ground to determine if there is a flame. Apparently the flame acts like a conductor. Thanks!
Stacaz
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CROSSBOLT
Whiteville, TN USA
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Sound to me that you should concentrate on WHY the pilot keeps going out and fix the problem. Has anyone checked your gas line pressure? You sure your valve ECO is working? Has your pilot jet plugged up or do you have any gooey stuff in you propane lines? And so on and so forth!
Karl
Karl
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stacaz822
Phoenix, Arizona
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Just out of curiosity, I'm tempted to put my ohm meter leads in the propane flame, close but not quite touching, to see just what the resistance is.... 
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96Bounder30E
America is my home!
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Chris Bryant wrote:Buy a Dometic reigniter, p/n 293113201P and hook it to a switch and the electrode. It won't be all electronic, but it will reignite the flame if it blows out.
Re-engineering the whole system would cost more than selling it and buying an all electronic model, if the even make one your size.
Chris.............is that part number supposed to be a "P" or a "9"?
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stacaz822
Phoenix, Arizona
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CROSSBOLT wrote:Sound to me that you should concentrate on WHY the pilot keeps going out and fix the problem. Has anyone checked your gas line pressure? You sure your valve ECO is working? Has your pilot jet plugged up or do you have any gooey stuff in you propane lines? And so on and so forth!
Karl
I have tried everything, I've had the whole thing apart, cleaned out the jet hole with alcohol and air compressor, checked correct pressure post valve and regulator, venting, baffling, chimney, etc. We drive on mostly dusty, dirty roads, and I don't want to have to clean out that jet during every camping trip.
Works nearly 100% of the time, just quits rarely, but with some consequences. I think of it as a fun mod to do, an improvement.
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96Bounder30E
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Here's some good reading.........looks about like what Chris is telling you to do.......
http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/trouble/igniter.htm
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Rvpapa
Alberta , Can.
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Joined: 08/07/2002
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Those reigniter boards work very well. Even when the flame goes out there is a few seconds before the thermocouple cools down to shut off the gas which allows time for an auto relight. Installed one on a Suberban water heater that would blow out sometimes when on the road. Not too good in below zero temps. Never had another problem in the past six years.
Art.
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stacaz822
Phoenix, Arizona
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Rvpapa wrote:Those reigniter boards work very well. Even when the flame goes out there is a few seconds before the thermocouple cools down to shut off the gas which allows time for an auto relight. Installed one on a Suberban water heater that would blow out sometimes when on the road. Not too good in below zero temps. Never had another problem in the past six years.
Art.
The ignitor-reignitor module that I referenced (from Chris' link, and I already ordered for $36) uses the conductivity of the flame to determine when to spark. No flame = open circuit, start sparking!
No thermocouple involved.
I already got all the info needed to do this. Thanks for all your input, Guys!
Sorry...feel free to add any additional information needed for those who might need it.
Cheers!
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