gregdel1
New York
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I have a Dometic RM2652 refrigerator that when you turn it on no lights come on at the eyebrow board.I have the gas turned on. I have power coming to the main board and I put a new main board in and it did not solve the problem.Does anyone have some advice.
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midnightsadie
ohio
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you did check the fuse at the main fuse box? go to the outside of frig pull cover check for 12volts there? you do have to have a 12volt battery hooked up is it bad ?
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JFG
TN
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check main fuse.... on ac or dc.. are batteries charged?
Fred
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pulsar
Lewisville, NC
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Moved from Forum Technical Support to Tech Issues.
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gregdel1
New York
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I have voltage coming to the main board.The fuses are good.The house battery is new.
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mobilefleet
on the road
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control board bad/burnt out. $30-$45 on ebay
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=dometic+control+panel&_sacat=See-All-Categories
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forumcoach
Minnesota
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If you have power coming into the lower board... Check power coming out of the lower board, if good there then check it up at the eyebrow board. Should be a bad wire harness or a bad eyebrow board if what you state is accurate. Here is the wire info you need to check.
Red wire = Ground up to eyebrow.
Orange wire = 12v DC Positive power up to eyebrow.
Black wire = 12v DC Positive power back down to lower board for 120v electric operation.
Green wire = 12v DC Positve power back down to lower board for LP operation.
Brown wire = Communication between two boards.
Blue wire = Test lead for LP Operation. Can not test. - For factory only.
That should nail it down for you.
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Rob's
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Dometic Electronic System (second generation)
The second generation Dometic electronic system is a completely revamped system that made some dramatic changes compared to the first generation system. The eyebrow circuit board is more than a set of glorified switches. It has its own micro processor and communicates with the lower circuit board. The thermostat is replaced with a thermistor. The lower circuit board (main) activates the appropriate heat sources and has a micro processor to communicate with the eyebrow board. There are also some important changes to the gas control system in the second generation system.
The graphic below represents a generic version of the second generation electronics system. You can find the specific model numbers of the refrigerators included in this generation below. Also, the wiring shown here is the later wiring. Later models came standard with this wiring, and many older models were updated to this wiring with a wire harness kit, usually installed with a new circuit board (after the original one failed). The older wiring can be seen here. The wiring difference is in the thermocouple and gas control parts.
As mentioned, the graphic above is generic, representing more than one model. Some are AES (Automatic Energy Selector), all can select between AC and gas (depending on the availability of AC) or set to gas only. Some are two way (gas and AC) and some are three way (gas, AC, and DC). Most have a temperature control, but some are pre-set and have no way to change the temperature setting. There are several variations of the eyebrow boards and main boards. Although Dometic uses numerous lower (main) circuit boards for the various models, at least one after-market manufacturer has managed to make one board that fits all models very successfully.
The main circuit board requires 12 volt to it for the refrigerator to operate on any heat source. In general, operation is started by the user pushing the power button "On" at the eyebrow. Depending on the eyebrow and the settings, a signal is sent to the lower (main) board telling it what mode to operate in. If "Auto" is selected, for example, the lower board knows to use AC (120 volt), if available, to heat the cooling unit. If AC is not available, the lower board knows to try to light the gas flame for the heat source. On models with a temperature control on the eyebrow, the setting initially starts at three. The user can adjust the setting up or down from there. A thermistor mounted inside the refrigerator on the fins in the lower box communicates the temperature to the lower (main) board by its varying resistance.
Standby Mode The main circuit board has two ways of coping with the failure of other system components:
1. If the eyebrow board becomes non-functional, the main board will go to Auto mode and select the best available heat source, with AC and Gas having priority. The temperature of the unit will be kept in the middle position. This depends a little on why the eyebrow board is non-functional. If the eyebrow were disconnected, for example, the refrigerator would not work.
2. If the temperature sensing system fails, the board would cause the refrigerator to cool continuously in the mode selected by the eyebrow. In other words, the refrigerator will not shut down as long as power is available. Usually the thermistor needs to be changed when this happens.
Models included in the Dometic second generation electronics: S1521, S1531, S1621, S1631, S1821, S1831, RM2607, RM2611, RM2612, RM2620, RM2652, RM2807, RM2811, RM2812, RM2820, RM2852, RM3607, RM3662, RM3663, RM3807, RM3862, RM3863, RM4872, RM4873, RM7030, RM7130, RM7732, RM7832, and NDR1062.
Rob
Rob
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gregdel1
New York
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Thank you Rob for the information. I have the RM2652 unit do you think I should replace the main and eyebrow boards with the new style. Do the new units come with the wire harness.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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forumcoach wrote:If you have power coming into the lower board... Check power coming out of the lower board, if good there then check it up at the eyebrow board. Should be a bad wire harness or a bad eyebrow board if what you state is accurate. Here is the wire info you need to check.
Red wire = Ground up to eyebrow.
Orange wire = 12v DC Positive power up to eyebrow.
Black wire = 12v DC Positive power back down to lower board for 120v electric operation.
Green wire = 12v DC Positve power back down to lower board for LP operation.
Brown wire = Communication between two boards.
Blue wire = Test lead for LP Operation. Can not test. - For factory only.
That should nail it down for you.
It is rare for an eyebrow to fail. As listed above, check the wires at the eyebrow. I will bet if you pull the refer, you will find the wire harness from the Circuit Board to the eyebrow has been damaged by rodents or just plain cut. Doug
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