B&P
Calgary, Alberta CANADA
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DH is in the process of moving the towbar and braking systems to our new toad. He has asked me to put this question out to the experts out there.
Is there anything he needs to be aware of when tying into the wiring harness for the signal and clearance lights? He will be tying into the harness that is currently there with the towing package on the toad.
(This is on a GMC Colorado, if that matters)
Bill/Pat 
2007 Tiffen Phaeton 40 QSH Diesel Pusher
2010 Colorado - Toad
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Phil & Stephie
Jonesborough, TN
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Just make sure to install diodes on each line.
Phil & Stephanie Grey
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Burp
St. George's Island, MD
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I have setup 4 toads. But on the last 2 we went to magnetic lights we sit on the trunk. It turned out on the previous two vehicles it was harder to install the wiring harness than putting in the tow bracket. But the last straw came when I had an electrical problem on a Ford Escape. The dealer refused to touch it under warrenty while the wiring harness was installed. So I ripped out all of the wiring and the electrical problem was still there.  But now the dealer worked on it and found the problem.
Modern cars are so dependant on the electronics and electrical power I have decided not to install anything that might disturb it. And the magnetic lights move from one vehicle to another.
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Me, the Wife  , Edgar and Sarah 
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ShapeShifter
Buffalo, NY
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Phil & Stephie wrote:Just make sure to install diodes on each line.
A good explanation of how to do that is HERE. This requires cutting into your toad wiring, which many consider too intrusive. (This is the way I went with mine.)
Another possibility is to install additional bulb sockets in the tail light housings. This requires drilling out the taillights, and needs additional room, but completely isolates the toad and motorhome electrical systems. A good explanation of how to do that is HERE.
Burp wrote:we went to magnetic lights we sit on the trunk.
That is also an option, and requires no toad modifications (but does require placing the lights each time, and there is the possibility of paint scratches from the light bases if you stick them on a dirty car, or paint stains if you leave them on the car for very extended periods (especially if wet.) You also have to deal with the wires rubbing on the paint, or replacing/charging batteries if wireless.)
There are pros and cons to all three choices. They all work. The only method I don't recommend is to just splice the motorhome wires directly into the toad wires (for example, connecting the motorhome umbilical directly to the toad's trailer light socket, back-feeding the toad lights.) While this might appear to work initially, there are usually some weird and interesting side effects. And given that most cars these days have lighting that is driven by a control computer, back-feeding power to the lights can cause expensive damage.
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ LE
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goodcruisin
Greenwood, IN
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I'm not a fan of tying in to existing wiring. The circuitry on new cars is much more complex than most people think. I installed a second bulb/socket in the existing light fixture and ran separate wiring, just like a trailer. If I ever do it again I won't even do that. I will make a little light bar that I can slide into the reciever of the vehicles trailer hitch.
John (USN Ret) & Debbie
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ShapeShifter
Buffalo, NY
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goodcruisin wrote:I'm not a fan of tying in to existing wiring. The circuitry on new cars is much more complex than most people think.
There are many who share your valid concern. In my case, I have an electronics background, and the full wiring diagrams/schematics of my truck, so I knew exactly what I was getting into, and which wires were the best to use for the diode splice. With the complex wiring schemes they use these days, it's not something to take lightly, and not for everyone. But it can still be a viable option with the proper care and diligence.
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Burp
St. George's Island, MD
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Here is one more option. It is a light bar that sits on the back of the toad. It is wireless so there is no installation required. The only concern I have is the price. You can find the info here. You can get these cheaper is you search the web.
BTW, we have never had any problems with the magnets leaving scratches on the toad. Just make sure you use the plactic pad supplied and always install and remove straight up and down. We have had issues with the wires leaving scratches.
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BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
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Moved to Dinghy Towing forum from Towing.
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ShapeShifter
Buffalo, NY
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Burp wrote:BTW, we have never had any problems with the magnets leaving scratches on the toad. Just make sure you use the plactic pad supplied and always install and remove straight up and down.
And, make sure the car is relatively clean and don't stick the magnets down on gritty dirt. Also, don't leave them in place for months at a time or it may leave a dark stain in the paint (don't ask me how I know... although my experience is with a magnet mount antenna, not lights.  )
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Healeyman
Carrollton, TX
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ShapeShifter wrote:make sure the car is relatively clean and don't stick the magnets down on gritty dirt.
I tear/cut a piece of paper towel into about 4" squares, then take 1 square and gently wipe the area where the light will be.
I then turn that square of towel over (dirty side up-clean side down) and put the light on it.
The lights have never moved and no scratches from the hard plastic bottom of the lights. I use a clean towel square every time I restick the lights.
If you are really fastidious, you could use a drinking glass or coffee cup and a razor blade on a cutting board to make neat little circles.
You could make a dozen or two at a time and keep them in a plastic bag with the lights. Sort of your own "Lighting Kit".
Tim
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