Sully2

Cincinnati

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gonzo71 wrote:
Yes there are cars (mostly performance cars) that come with synthetic oil and those cars need the this oil. The clearances for modern performance engine are a lot tighter than the engine of you every day driver, or Motorhome engine. A dino oil thins out when it gets hot during normal operation. a 40wt oil can easily turn into a 30wt or thinner oil when hot. This can cause problems on a performance engine. The cold oil may not be thin enough to lubricate this engine due to the tight specs. Since Mobile 1 does not change, a 20wt Mobile 1 oil will remain a 20wt oil even when hot. Ensuring that this performance engine will have prober lubrication even when cold.
Here is a little fun fact: Did you know that you cannot start a cold Formula 1 engine? The clearancesfor this performance engine are so tight that a cold Formula 1 engine is actually seized up. In order to start the engine, hot coolant and oil is cycled into to the engine. Once the engine is warm end parts are expending the engine will turn over.
That makes a lot of sense? What do they do...assemble it in a blast furnace?? Sure makes assembly and torquing items down pretty tough.
An interference fit betwwen bearings and (part) makes no sense whatsoever because a "fit" of .00025 will allow one to assemble parts and items such as wrist pins can be inserted into the pistons with the mere pressure of your thumbs!....
2000 Country Coach Allure; Cummins ISC 330 HP; 71/2 - 8 MPG regardless
2002 Jeep Liberty
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wny_pat

Western NYS

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gonzo71 wrote: I have posted this a few times before. This is based on FACTS not my personal believes. You can find the information below online for yourself:
I have to say that many of you really need to do some research on Synthetic Oil and what true synthetic oil actually is. There is no regulation in place that will differentiate a dino oil from a synthetic oil. In North America manufacturers can call it whatever they want.
Check out API group I, II, III, IV, V ..........................
Excellent post and excellent factual information.
Link to rest of his post.
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Jarlaxle

New England

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Oil is oil. Use whatever meets the manufacturer's specs that you can get the cheapest. Regular Wal-Mart Super Tech oil for everything but my Magnum until the dealer stops sending me $20 oil change coupons (whatever 5W-20 the dealer uses)...after that, it will get Wal-Mart oil. Everything but my Magnum (Mopar) and my truck (Motorcraft or Delco) get Super Tech filters.
John and Elizabeth (Liz), with 3 nutty cats
My beloved St. Bernard, Marm, lost him 1/2/12
Current rig:
1992 International Genesis school bus conversion
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wny_pat

Western NYS

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427435 wrote: gonzo71 wrote: If you spend the money for synthetic and then add $25 for testing etc, why not stick with dino oil and simply change it at 3000miles and safe the money for synthetic and testing. Testing the oil tells you how dirty the oil is. Changing my Dino oil at 3000 miles gets the dirt out regardless. You can do A dino oil change for what you would pay for the testing.
Changing oil every 3000 miles is either a pain in my old bones or a pain in my billfold. And if I pay someone else to do it, they may well screw something else up. By using a good synthetic, I only have to crawl around under my MH once a year-------that, in it self, is worth $25. That is the way I look at it too! Except I'm runnig it in a diesel with a small oil pan.
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curt12914

Northern NY State

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womps wrote: I have a Chev. SSR with a 6.0 litre corvette engine. Comes from the factory with Mobil 1 and manual recommends uaing synthetic oil. I was having major engine trouble with a Buick Enclave I also owned. After many attempts to fix problem they flew an engineer in from Detroit. In talking to him I asked him about the need for synthetic in the SSR. He said it is a "feel good oil". Most buyers feel good about the fact their engine should have synthetic oil in it and that fact will actually help in making a buying decision. Very interesting!!
It's kind of the samr feel good thing the guys that swear they get better performance out of higher octane fuel in a syock engine that doesn't require it.
I, personally, feel that running a slightly better oil (synthetic) for a longer period than the manufacturer recommends, especially without changing the oil filter, is probably more detrimental to an engine than running conventional oil for the recommended period.
Again, it is just my opinion.
05 Ford F-350 Lariat CC 4X4 PSD DRW Line X Retrax
02 Montana Big Sky 3295 RK (2) Honda EU2000is
When my grown kids were inspecting our new fifth wheel, one asked why we bought a trailer that sleeps 4. My reply was that we couldn't find one that sleeps 2!
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wny_pat

Western NYS

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fixed
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J-Rooster

Port Orchard, Wa. / Lake Havasu City, Az.

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KlipschHead281 wrote: mwphoto wrote: I have a V10 Ford and I have no idea what oil the last owner used in it.
Does anyone have any info on switching to synthetic oil at 58000 miles?
Also does it make any difference if the old oil was non synthetic oil?
Thanks
Mark
Your Ford V10 will LOVE synthetic, there is no problem using it. Whatever the old oil was, it won't make a difference. The only time it's not rcommended going synthetic is if you just built the engine and it wasn't broken in. Since you have 58k miles it's plenty broke in.
Good luck! Erik, I own 2 Toyota's and they came from the factory brand new (the newest one had 3 miles on it) with synthetic oil. I agree with you on synthetic oil. I use it in the auto's, RV, Harley,Lawn mower and pellet stove! John
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dirtengineer

Alaska

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I use synthetic for one reason. It cuts the time for my oil pressure to raise when cold starting in the winter in about half. My assumption is that I am decreasing wear. I am certainly lowering my own blood pressure.
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mscamping

any place, USA

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Not worth the extra money to me.. Unless you're going to take oil samples and extend your changes.. Then you have to be careful if something happens to keep good records for warranty claims and even then they may refuse your claim.. Just our thoughts..
Mike..
2003 Holiday Rambler Neptune 36 PBD - ISB 300 Cummins- Allison MH2000 5 speed
2009 HHR w/Blue Ox Aventa II & SMI Stay-n-Play Duo
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Mike & Sharon
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Skid Row Joe

Texas and on-the-road

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Mercedes-Benz notified all owners of FSS (Flexible Service Schedule) on-board computer generated oil change notifications; that if you would run 100% synthetic crankcase oil, that they would extend your 100% warranty for 10 years/150,000 miles at no charge. So, Mercedes-Benz at least believes in it.
I had recently bought a new Mercedes-Benz automobile with the turbodiesel engine, and I immediately switched to Mobil One full synthetic engine oil.
I run Shell Rotella T 15W-40 conventional motor oil in my diesel motorcoach powered by a Ford Powerstroke diesel engine.
I much prefer the performance of the 100% full synthetic - it's just meant for extreme service conditions. Hands down it wins every time.
“I want to die in my sleep like my Grandfather... Not screaming and yelling like the passengers in his car.”
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