TechWriter
Green Bay, WI USA
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Joined: 12/22/2002
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* This post was
edited 07/12/10 04:45am by TechWriter *
2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP
Wisconsin, USA
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Itchn2go
Seaford,Va USA
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Joined: 07/11/2003
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A diesel doesn't drive much different than a gas. I think its easier ,,the ride is better, but get used to the air brakes and exhaust brake before you go to far.
If its a longer unit make wider turns and check your mirrors often. You'll love it.
Good luck,
Happy Trails.
ITCHN2GO,Seaford,VA
05 Winnebago Journey, 39K, 350 Cat, Freightliner & More
1 Beautiful Wife, 2 Beautiful Dogs
TOAD 04 FWD Vue Ready to Go
"It all depends on who you talk to"
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wnytaxman
Western NY
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Joined: 02/21/2009
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Also, if you are used to an A gasser, the turning is different in an A Diesel. Before you were sitting just over or slightly behind the front wheels and now you are sitting in front of the front wheels. The best advice that was given to me is to go far enough into the intersection before you make your turn. You are used to making the turn sooner in a gasser than you will in a Diesel.
2011 Berkshire 390bh
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Dog Trainer
Richmond Mi.
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If you have driven a class A you will find it pretty much the same as far as giving extra room to turn etc... the air brakes will be different, the suspension may give you a much more cushy feel in the ride. You may notice the turbo as it spools up especially if there are buildings and walls next to you. You may hear the air dryer as it purges excess air. Go to an open large parking lot to get used to the brakes. do a couple of fast stops to see how it reacts. Good luck and smooth roads.
93 Airstream 35' Dp
5.9 230 uprated to 300 HP
Allison MD 3060
Dutchess and Shadow Golden's Daktari Cavalier King Charles (fur Bearing Children)
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VintageRacer
Dundas, Ontario
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If you have air brakes, you may need a license endorsement depending on your state laws, but in any case, read up on how air brakes work. learn how to tell if the compressor is working properly, what the gauges are telling you, how to test the emergency brake, etc.
If you have any questions, PM me or post them here, and I will tell you the answers.
Brian
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab, Hemi, 5 speed manual, 3.73 gears, Tow Beast hitch with 24" extension.
28 ft race car hauler, Lola T440 Formula Ford, NTM MK4 Sports Racer
1980 MCI MC-5C highway coach conversion
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tkcas01
Roaming Fulltimer
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Joined: 10/11/2005
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wnytaxman wrote: The best advice that was given to me is to go far enough into the intersection before you make your turn.
This was the best "tip" I received when first climbing into the cockpit of a DP. To be more specific, the way it was presented to me that seems to work pretty well is to not start turning until your hips are lined up with where you want the rear axle to go through the turn.
I guess the other thing with a diesel is understanding at what RPM you have the highest torque - mainly important on hills. You may want to get used to downshifting manually as you start a climb to keep the RPMs (and thus torque) up. Not sure where you might find the torque charts for your rig, but for example my 330 Cummins will cruise at about 1500 RPM, but if I let it stay there on climbs my speed will drop, so I'll downshift and try to keep my RPMs up to 1800-1900.
My last known location (is here)
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FormerBoater
South Florida
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Here is what I have learned in the first 18 months of DP driving:
-As stated above, remember that the front/turning wheels are behind you. Do not swing wide for turns on city streets, just wait until the curb lines up with your hips and then turn the wheel quickly and you will do fine. Imagine that you are driving your car seated on the front of the hood!
-Your unit will likely have self-adjusting slack adjusters for the air brakes. Before you head out get your coach on level ground, make sure your parking brake is not engaged and fully depress the brake pedal for 30 seconds six times to adjust your slack adjusters. This will give you more brake pedal pressure/feedback when you apply the brakes and also ensure that you can fully engage the brakes if necessary.
-Perform a full air brake test while you are at it. Basically when your system is fully aired up, turn off the engine, release the parking brake and depress the brake pedal as many times as necessary to deplete the air supply. Once the tank pressure falls below 60 pounds or so the parking brake should automatically engage. After adjusting the slack adjusters and performing this test your will have the peace of mind that the brake system is performing as it should.
-Once you are going down the road, the coach should track like a lead ball if your alignment and ride height are adjusted properly. The coach should require minimal adjustment at the steering wheel if all is set correctly. A light hand at the wheel is what you are trying to obtain and this should be no problem once you adjust to the fact that the coach does not need any real help to track straight down the highway.
-You likely have an Allison transmission on the MH. Put it in Economy Mode (one actuation of the mode button illuminates the mode indicator). Economy mode is your friend from a MPG perspective.
-If you have any steep hills on your journey, downshift using the Allison shift pad before you start climbing the hill. Keep your RPM's up and this will keep your engine cooler going up the grade. In descending the hill keep the shift pad in downshift mode (usually 4th in a 6 speed transmission) and do not ride the brakes down the hill. If you need to slow down, hit the brakes hard for a short period of time to slow the coach and then come off the brakes. This is called stubbing the brakes and will ensure that you do not overheat the brakes on a long downhill run.
Finally, be prepared for some sensation from passing semi's and buses. They all have a type of air "bow wave" that affects your MH to some degree. Some MH's have minimum impact, some have more.
Other than that, relax and enjoy that air ride suspension and the fact that you cannot really hear your engine at highway speeds.
Dave
Dave
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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JamesBr
MD
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Going from the Gasser listed in your sig, you should have no problem other then adjusting to air brakes, an exhaust brake if one is equiped, and a longer coach.
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Phillerup
Usually Travelin' the USA
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Joined: 10/15/2002
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To add a couple to the above list --
Be cautious about where you buy diesel. Use stations that will get a good turnover and get fresh fuel.
I recommend NOT using the exhaust brake in the rain.
2003 Newmar DSDP 4005 dual slide king bed Spartan 350 Cummins 2004 Jeep Liberty 4X4 tow, SeaEagle boat in basement
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mtrumpet
Hamburg, NY
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Joined: 07/08/2005
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tkcas01 wrote:wnytaxman wrote: The best advice that was given to me is to go far enough into the intersection before you make your turn.
This was the best "tip" I received when first climbing into the cockpit of a DP. To be more specific, the way it was presented to me that seems to work pretty well is to not start turning until your hips are lined up with where you want the rear axle to go through the turn.
I guess the other thing with a diesel is understanding at what RPM you have the highest torque - mainly important on hills. You may want to get used to downshifting manually as you start a climb to keep the RPMs (and thus torque) up. Not sure where you might find the torque charts for your rig, but for example my 330 Cummins will cruise at about 1500 RPM, but if I let it stay there on climbs my speed will drop, so I'll downshift and try to keep my RPMs up to 1800-1900.
Good advice above. I'll add that one of the first things to do would be to READ THE OWNERS MANUALS. When you're done reading them, READ THEM AGAIN!
Aside from handling the coach going down the road, it's extremely important to learn about all of your dash gauges and lights and what they mean. Keeping an eye on and understanding your gauges is a very important part of operating a diesel powered vehicle. It'll take a little while to learn what readings are "normal" for your specific coach.
What you might want to do....On the way back from picking up your new MH, once you get up to normal temperature and speed after driving down the highway for awhile, have your co-pilot jot down your gauge readings (dictated by you so that you'll understand them). After a couple more hours of travel, do the same again. That will help you establish a benchmark of what is "NORMAL" for your coach. Keep in mind that gauge readings at highway driving may differ somewhat from secondary road driving.
Mark & Cherie (& Chloe)
2002 Newmar Dutch Star DP 3872, Cummins 350hp ISC, Spartan Chassis
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