Ranger Smith
Wherever the rig is parked
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Also if you go here there is a whole folder to tell you exactly what to check for a no start situation on a Ford 6.0
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum107/
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FFPEREZ
Southern IL
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There isn't a bleeder that I know of.. Just the water drain on the fuel filter on the frame rail. I own 2 6.0L fords. All you have to do when you change the fuel filters is cycle the key on and off about 4 times. When you turn it on wait for the fuel pump to stop then turn it off and do it again a few more times.
I wish you luck
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Jimbo53
Oregon
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FFPEREZ wrote:There isn't a bleeder that I know of.. Just the water drain on the fuel filter on the frame rail. I own 2 6.0L fords. All you have to do when you change the fuel filters is cycle the key on and off about 4 times. When you turn it on wait for the fuel pump to stop then turn it off and do it again a few more times.
I wish you luck
WOW just learned something about my Ford. I never knew you had to cycle the fuel pump a few times when replacing the fuel filter? Had mine replaced a few months ago and the guy put diesel fuel in the filter housing after changing the filter. I have no problems what so ever. Getting it changed again in about 60 days and I will watch him again. If he does not put fuel in the filter housing then I will do the cycle thing..great tip..thanks.
Jimbo
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wittmeba
Virginia
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Joined: 02/02/2001
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Whether it cranks or not, check the voltage. At least on the older 2001 7.3L the diesels require a certain voltage level to fire and assure the PCM work correctly. Seems mid to low 11's wont cut it.
Mine did the same. Cranked like crazy...but wouldnt start. Tried a marginal jumpbox - still wouldnt start. Had a guy come by and hooked jumper cables to his truck - left it run about 15 min and it started right up. Replaced the batteries and havent had a problem in about 6 years. Probably due to happen again soon  But at least Ill know.
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highpond
Boiling springs, SC
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Mine did the same thing. It's the high pressure oil pump. I had a leak and the pressure wouldn't build the pressure up. The computer will not let the engine start. Warrenty paid all but $100.
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skylos
Columbus, OH
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based on
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/899444-ficm-testing-procedure.html
I resoldered my FICM solder joints. The first test before changes: 15V. resoldered some and reassembled - 30V. resoldered all and resassembled, 39V. The page said:
"bismic @ ford-trucks" wrote:If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.
So I guess I'm doing okay now, which is much better than initially. Here's hoping that the fuel injectors will now fire and we'll start. The truck is charging now. If this doesn't work, its going to the dealer.
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02super250
Wisconsin
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It sounds like the HPOP.
2011 F350 Lariat 4x4 CC DRW Powerstroke 3:73,LineX,Duraflaps on all four corners,BAK Flip F1.
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KSadler1
Albuquerque, NM
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Are you sure that the fuel you put in your truck was okay? Years ago my buddy filled up and something was wrong with the fuel. It burned up his fuel injectors. He had no idea what had happened until his dealer told him. Other people that filled up at that station complained about the same problem. The station eneded up paying for all the fuel injectors to be replaced.....
Ken
2008 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty SB Crew Cab 6.8L V-10 4x4 4:10
(Just sold the 5er but have a lot of great memories)
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Ranger Smith
Wherever the rig is parked
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I wish you good luck. Let me know how you make out.
Steve
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skylos
Columbus, OH
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Update: Truck would not crank despite charging and new batteries. Has been dispatched to local ford dealer where they will not work on it until first thing Monday.
Attempting to negotiate a lift from John who read my message last night and called from Omaha. Hopefully it works out.
* This post was
edited 06/19/10 09:50am by skylos *
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