Bruce Brown
Northern NY
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Joined: 06/01/2001
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With the cost of solar panels coming down and our schedule of dry camping, it was time to look into installing one again.
With the inverter on our camper has a static load of 2 amps. Based on that and our budget we chose a 120W panel rated for 6.85A output. We're not looking to power the coach off the panel, just more of a maintenance charge.
The installation was pretty straight forward, as we have a vent in the back corner of the camper that runs down into a closet;
To run this into the closet I cut the pipe, drilled an exit hole, the put the pipe back together using a rubber coupling;
Next was to run the wires (12 gauge, water resistant cord) down the pipe to the controller location. I chose this spot as everything I read said to keep the controller close to the batteries, this area is just above the batteries and an easy place to work with;
Next was out the back wall into the rear cap, then down to the batteries;
Back inside to install the controller and tie it all together;
I plan on adding an amp meter to gauge just how well - or poorly - the system works. I'll install that as soon as it shows up;
Up on the roof;
You can click here for a slideshow of pictures;
* This post was
edited 06/28/10 03:36pm by Bruce Brown *
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Sully2
Cincinnati
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Joined: 01/20/2003
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You can keep the solor panel...but I'll take the garage....
2000 Country Coach Allure; Cummins ISC 330 HP; 71/2 - 8 MPG regardless
2002 Jeep Liberty
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GENECOP
NEW YORK
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Joined: 12/08/2009
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Everything looks fine except the usage of the plumbing vent, i would be concerned about ANY obstruction that reduces the clear opening of the vent pipe, i would have drilled a seperate hole , Gene
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wallynm
Los Alamos NM
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Joined: 09/27/2000
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Solar
Other insulation
DONATE THAT OLD CELL PHONE TO SUPPORT SOLDIERS click here
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Aloha Utah
Southwest Corner of Utah
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Joined: 04/30/2006
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How did you attach the panel to the roof?
Me, a curmudgeon of sorts
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TechWriter
Green Bay, WI USA
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Joined: 12/22/2002
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-
* This post was
edited 07/12/10 04:52am by TechWriter *
2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP
Wisconsin, USA
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Bruce Brown
Northern NY
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Joined: 06/01/2001
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GENECOP wrote:Everything looks fine except the usage of the plumbing vent, i would be concerned about ANY obstruction that reduces the clear opening of the vent pipe, i would have drilled a seperate hole , Gene
That vent is for the washer drain, and we don't have a washer. All other drains have their own vent. Even if it was being used I wouldn't be too concerned, the wire does't take up much room.
Aloha Utah wrote:How did you attach the panel to the roof?
I made brackets out of aluminum angle, like shown here. I found where the roof rafters are and used 12 x 3/4" metal screws to screw into them. It should work.
WOW!  THATS a serious installation!
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Bruce Brown
Northern NY
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Joined: 06/01/2001
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wallynm wrote:Solar
Other insulation
I just read your linked post - good information.
Cost-wise things sure have come down, our panel and controller (certainly a lower grade, but functional) was $350 delivered to the door. The wire I used (12 gauge water resistant stranded) was $0.99/ft at my local hardware store (I bought 20 ft) and I made the brackets out of some aluminum angle I had in the garage. The amp meter I have ordered is $4.98 delivered. Total cost: under $375 complete.
Now lets see if it works!
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onekg
Washington State
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Joined: 12/14/2005
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I want to add a 120 watt panel to my system, where did you buy your panel and controller?
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MrWizard
Van Nuys, Ca
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Joined: 06/27/2004
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It's a tank vent , plumbing, that cable is not going to obstruct any fumes that need to be vented
GENECOP wrote:Everything looks fine except the usage of the plumbing vent, i would be concerned about ANY obstruction that reduces the clear opening of the vent pipe, i would have drilled a seperate hole , Gene
Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother
....
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