pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi Mark,
Nothing has been even purchased. I agree there is a storage problem. Five peak hours show 6000 watts per day.
The owners have not yet tried the air conditioner on the existing inverter, which they are loathe to replace. The inverter will run a coffee pot and the microwave at the same time. Whether they were running together under the "surge" capacity of the inverter is unknown.
If the existing hot water heater is AC capable then load diversion may not be "on the menu" after all. They could simply flip it on and forget it. But that is unknown at this time.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts solar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries 2500 watt inverter.
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smkettner
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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Maybe a small Honda 2000 (or even 1000) would reduce the footprint of the 7500w diesel enough that the huge solar could be scaled back to what fits the set of batteries.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
Send a PM if I missed something
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CoolJourney
AZ Sandbird
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Joined: 04/17/2007
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You might want to look into the Outback line of solar charge controllers. I think they can handle the 1200 watt array and provide a number of flexible voltage options. The panels can be wired to provide up to 60 VDC and the Outback will step-down the voltage to 12 VDC.
Outback Flexmax
I had a previous version of the Outback charge controller and while it was a pricey controller it was very solidly built and easy to use.
Bill
pianotuna wrote:Hi all,
I've been asked to make suggestions based on certain parameters in a Beaver Class A RV:
1. 1200 watts of panels fixed installation no tilt, no shade.
2. 12 volt output to the batteries
3. battery replacement (system voltage still 12 volts)
4. load diversion to water heater.
Suggestions for a charge controller?
CoolJourney's Travels
2007 Monaco Diplomat 40 PDQ
2007 Honda CR-V
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sh410
Northwest
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Joined: 08/29/2007
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Quote:
They want a "set it and forget it" solar installation.
I'm not sure this is possible, with trying to either cover part of the panels, divertion to the WH etc. From the comments on this forum are any solar users not checking voltage, current, batteries, etc?
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mexbungalows
las peñas, michoacan, mexico
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Joined: 06/01/2007
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I try and keep in mind the incredibly large bootprint cast when a solar voltaic panel is created (manufactured).
This sort of reminds me of trying to fit a 700 horsepower supercharged 12 cylinder motor into a single seat family car.
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2oldman
Near The Slabs
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Joined: 04/15/2001
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CoolJourney wrote:Outback.. solar charge controllers. The panels can be wired to provide up to 60 VDC and the Outback will step-down the voltage to 12 VDC. Absolutely. That's what I have with a 360w array in series. My Outback will accept up to 150vdc.
For the design system go with a series hookup and the 80a O unit.
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TechWriter
Green Bay, WI USA
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Joined: 12/22/2002
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* This post was
edited 07/12/10 04:54am by TechWriter *
2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP
Wisconsin, USA
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2oldman
Near The Slabs
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TechWriter wrote:they're in for a shock when their PV output drops 50% to 75% on an overcast day. No pun intended? 
Did I miss something? Do the owners expect endless cloud-free days?
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi TechWriter,
I have no intentions of doing the install work. But it is better to waltz into a dealer knowing *what you want* and *how you want it done*.
I'm not a solar beginner--but I left the question wide open--for I don't pretend to "know it all". So far this has been quite a useful exercise.
As for unshaded I meant that nothing on the roof casts a shadow. Trees don't usually grow on top of RV's *grin*. That is also why 1200 watts--when 600 would easily service their (projected) battery bank.
They do not wish to consider a gasoline generator. Generators are definitely not "set it and forget it" plus carrying gasoline when the rest of the RV is diesel and propane is awkward.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi sh410,
Other than when I'm running a test, I am a set it and forget it type. If I happen to see the float light on I may turn on the water heater. But then, I tend to leave the fridge and water heater on while I drive, too, so as often as not the "extra loads" are already on.
Since, in some senses, my existing system is "over built" I can have that luxury of "set it and forget it".
That's one reason I don't think I'd ever want a trimetric or other device that "records" amp hours used, and etc.
sh410 wrote:I'm not sure this is possible, with trying to either cover part of the panels, divertion to the WH etc. From the comments on this forum are any solar users not checking voltage, current, batteries, etc?
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