PrivatePilot
Greater Toronto Area
Senior Member
Joined: 11/02/2007
View Profile
 Offline
|
The generator in question wil hold 950w steady with a surge of about 1100.
It's interesting to hear the stories of 45 amp converters overloading 1000w Hondas - I suspect these are situations where people haven't rewired to enable limiting the load to ONLY the converter and there's a lot more phantom loads they are not accounting for as a result. A few watts here and there (TV's and audio equipment on standby, etc) can add up quickly if you forget about them and then start trying to manage on a small genny I can see this scenario happening.
However, once rewired isolating everything to strictly the converter removes all these variables.
Like I said in my original post, I was able to run the converter (charging on high rate) and still have enough left over to power the fridge as well on 120 (strictly for load testing purposes) before the generator started to labor. Not sure what the amp draw is on the fridge but I was surprised.
30' Keystone Cougar 5'er, Triple Bunkhouse, SuperSlide.
Chevy 3500 1 Ton long box crew cab dually
6.5 Turbo Diesel, 4.11 Rears, LSD
Dieselplace.com Staff Member
Checkout my blogs, adventures, and more here!
Mark
|
smkettner
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2005
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Did you measure a full 45 amps into the battery for an extended period?
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675 watts solar
Send a PM if I missed something
|
BFL13
Victoria, BC
Senior Member
Joined: 02/15/2006
View Profile
|
PrivatePilot wrote:The generator in question wil hold 950w steady with a surge of about 1100.
It's interesting to hear the stories of 45 amp converters overloading 1000w Hondas - I suspect these are situations where people haven't rewired to enable limiting the load to ONLY the converter and there's a lot more phantom loads they are not accounting for as a result. A few watts here and there (TV's and audio equipment on standby, etc) can add up quickly if you forget about them and then start trying to manage on a small genny I can see this scenario happening.
However, once rewired isolating everything to strictly the converter removes all these variables.
Like I said in my original post, I was able to run the converter (charging on high rate) and still have enough left over to power the fridge as well on 120 (strictly for load testing purposes) before the generator started to labor. Not sure what the amp draw is on the fridge but I was surprised.
All that is making no sense to me at all. Please clarify.
The converter will take up the same VA from the gen whether it is running some rig stuff plus charge the battery bank or all of one and none of the other or any combination of those things.
You can't have the converter only doing battery charging and not anything in the rig unless now the 12v rig stuff is powered by the battery bank. So now you are drawing from the battery while charging it, getting only net amps in, or else you are using some converter amps for rig stuff, reducing converter amps for charging. Either way the gen thinks the converter is going full amps
Also, what is this "high rate" being claimed? Is this in amps (how many?) or just that it is doing 14.4v? In which case how do you know how much is going to battery charging? How are you measuring these?
You could be at 14.4v doing not that many amps and not working the gen hard at all. Can't tell from info provided, so please explain more.
2003 Chev 2500HD ExtCab, LB, 2WD, 6.0/4.10 Gas
2003 Komfort 26FS 5er (28.5 Ft-RK-10,000lb GVWR)
|
mena661
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2009
View Profile
Offline
|
smkettner wrote:I have yet to read 40 amps or less overloading a 1000w honda. So would one of those B&D chargers (VEC1093DBD) work with the 1000W Honda? I just got a quote for a Honda 1KW for $200 less than the Honda 2KW so I'm wanting to know if this will work. Thanks.
2006 Ford F250 Lariat 6.0 PSD 2WD
2010 Keystone Outback Super-Lite 285FL 5er, Reese Signature Series 18K w/Manual Slider
Four Trojan L16 6V's (740Ah)
|
wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
Senior Member
Joined: 07/04/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
A lot depends on the generator.. If it is a TRUE 950 watts you should be able to run a PDI 9260 or it's equal (Well, there is no equal save for a few other PDI products) That is 60 amps
If, on the other hand the 950 is a "Peak" or "Surge" number. figure 45 amps.
I used to have a Genrac 1000. (This is physically the same size as the Black & Decker 950, in fact I think it's the same generator)
IT was rated 1000 peak.. but delivered 1200 peak, 1000 continous
Ran a PDI 9180 with wizard.. (Which, of course, is the same as a PDI 9280) no problem So use that as your guide.
Find out what it's Long term rating is. at 950 it is likely 600 watts. which is about 45 amps after conversion loss.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
|
|
|
BFL13
Victoria, BC
Senior Member
Joined: 02/15/2006
View Profile
|
mena661 wrote:smkettner wrote:I have yet to read 40 amps or less overloading a 1000w honda. So would one of those B&D chargers (VEC1093DBD) work with the 1000W Honda? I just got a quote for a Honda 1KW for $200 less than the Honda 2KW so I'm wanting to know if this will work. Thanks.
Yes the VEC1093DBD will run off the Honda 1000, but IMO the 2000 is well worth the extra $200 so you can run other things as well.
Disregarding battery charging, your 2000 can run the microwave, hairdryers, etc, but the 1000 can't.
Many posters on here say to get the 2000w and never mind that wimpy 1000 even if it is a bit less money.
Also for charging, eg, I plug the trailer into the gen and disconnect the battery bank. Now the gen and converter are running 12v stuff. The gen also runs the charger and there is no draw on the battery so all charger amps are going towards raising the SOC. With a 1000 you might not be able to run the rig as well so you would have to leave the battery connected and only get net amps for a slower charge.
You do get more VA available as amps taper during the absorption stage with either gen, but you have more spare VA with the bigger gen you can actually use for something.
|
mena661
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2009
View Profile
Offline
|
BFL13 wrote:Also for charging, eg, I plug the trailer into the gen and disconnect the battery bank. Now the gen and converter are running 12v stuff. That's a great idea. Would a marine-style battery disconnect switch do the trick or would I have to physically disconnect both the negative and positive terminals?
|
BFL13
Victoria, BC
Senior Member
Joined: 02/15/2006
View Profile
|
You can use your existing battery disconnect switch, probably on the pos line inside the rig somewhere, or take off either the pos or neg battery wire-no need to take off both-, or, put a switch on either wire near the battery post outside so it is easy to work while you are there anyway clamping on the portable charger.
Note that with the battery disconnected from its frame ground, you must ignore the charger's safety instruction to put the neg clamp to the trailer frame and just put it on the battery neg post.
I suppose for that reason it might be better to disconnect the battery using the pos side. Unfortunately this is also awkward if you have several wires to the pos post. Your call for your rig.
|
PrivatePilot
Greater Toronto Area
Senior Member
Joined: 11/02/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
BFL13 wrote:All that is making no sense to me at all. Please clarify.
The converter will take up the same VA from the gen whether it is running some rig stuff plus charge the battery bank or all of one and none of the other or any combination of those things.
You can't have the converter only doing battery charging and not anything in the rig unless now the 12v rig stuff is powered by the battery bank.
When I say "isolate", I mean primarily the 120v loads, not the 12v loads. I have setup my switch pane with the ability to completely eliminate all other 120v loads aside from the converter when I want to run ONLY the converter. I did this to originally power my converter with an old (non inverter) 800w genny that I had years ago, and it was all it had in it to run the converter alone - anything else, even the slight loads from the TV and stereo, even when off, would cause it to run out of oomph.
That aside, typically when I'm running the generator to charge the house batteries we're not using *any* load on the 12v side except for the fridge electronics so probably close to 99%+ of the output is headed directly to the batteries.
|
PrivatePilot
Greater Toronto Area
Senior Member
Joined: 11/02/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
wa8yxm wrote:A lot depends on the generator.. If it is a TRUE 950 watts
PrivatePilot wrote:The generator in question wil hold 950w steady with a surge of about 1100.
|
|
|
