booster
Minnesota
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Joined: 10/14/2007
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I know the "brick" that plugs into 110v for this TV is quite large which would imply that it is a bit more sophisticated power supply than many of the 110 to 12v plug setups on other items, but you never know. Are there any markings on the brick about voltage, current, etc? The DC voltage may be an issue, but many times dirty AC off an invertor can also be a problem. As you said, at the price, it is worth a shot, regardless.
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My Roadtrek
Tucson, AZ.
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Joined: 03/20/2002
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I misunderstood about the inverter.
My Vizio's were 32 inch LCD's, and at the time Costco was only offered a 1 year warranty.  Cost almost as much to have them looked at by a repairman, not counting the repair bill, as it would have to replace them, so we went with the 42" Plasmas, and 2 year warranty from Costco.
Your Vizio may just shut down if the voltage gets too low, which is what an inverter will do, and not cause any problems, I hope. Anyway, good luck.
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AsheGuy
Raleigh, North Carolina
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booster wrote:Are there any markings on the brick about voltage, current, etc? Yes.
The output of the "brick" is, as Rodger pointed out, almost certainly more controlled than what the DC voltage of the LTV will be. It won't drop (hopefully) much below 12V but could go up as much as 2V. Way back when computers took up whole rooms, one trouble shooting technique we used for intermittent problems was to "bias" their voltage levels. You could adjust the power supply output voltages up and down to try to force a failure. While it was a recommended technique that I used from time to time, I never saw a problem found with this technique. Of course computer components may have had a bigger margin of safety then consumer electronics.
David & Margaret - 2005 LTV 210B 3S
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burlmart
Baton Rouge
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burlmart wrote:Does anyone know how long a small (19-22") flatscreen TV can run on a typical deep cycle 12 V house battery?
I found answers to my questions in the Technology Corner forum. Maybe you guys could get your knowledge on better if you post your electrical concerns over there.
2005 Trail Lite 213 B-Plus w/ 6.0 Chevy
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Handbasket
Asheville, NC
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Joined: 01/17/2003
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Nice find!
Just as an FYI for future reference, you may not need to chop the plug off the brick and risk voiding warranties. Radio Shuck carries a selection of small ~12V plug tips in various sizes. If you can't find the right one to rob off of a defunct laptop brick, try there. But the one I found at RS to 'straight-wire' my notebook to 12V was designed as part of an interchangeable plug system, with a pair of pins as input into the plug. Some small soldering would be required to connect it directly to wires. I think it cost me something like $12 (an outrageous amount for what it is, but whatcha gonna do?)
Jim, "Earth First! We'll mine the other planets later."
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigermotorhomes.com
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AsheGuy
Raleigh, North Carolina
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Handbasket wrote:Just as an FYI for future reference, you may not need to chop the plug off the brick and risk voiding warranties. Radio Shuck carries a selection of small ~12V plug tips in various sizes. If you can't find the right one to rob off of a defunct laptop brick, try there. But the one I found at RS to 'straight-wire' my notebook to 12V was designed as part of an interchangeable plug system, with a pair of pins as input into the plug. I did some searching online for plug tips before I cut the cable, but there are such a variety of tips that buying one online would be a shot in the dark unless you are good at measuring in mm. I should have checked RS. When you say "'straight-wire' my notebook", are you saying you connected directly from a 12v auto plug to a DC connector for your notebook? If so, you are more gutsy than me. 
What's needed for the purpose of this TV is a 12V DC-DC regulator. I checked at the Vizio website before buying the TV and they don't offer one. They must not be aware of the RV market. But in my searching elsewhere online, I haven't found one that regulates 11-13V DC to 12V DC with enough output current for this LCD TV. So I guess I will continue to live dangerously without regulated 12V for the TV.
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booster
Minnesota
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One of these maybe?
12 stabilizer
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doghouse_owner
Seattle
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AsheGuy,
Did you already have an easily accessible 12v line in the area around the tv? If not, how did you get 12v to the TV? I can understand getting rid of the inverter if it was noisy, but I'm confused..why not just replace the inverter? And I do appreciate the decreased viewing angle of the original tv and your reason to replace the tv....does your B not have an inverter with 120v outlets hooked up to the inverter?
Wendy
Owned and trained by Cocoa, Mikey and the Ollie-man - all with great recalls
2008 Roadtrek RS Adventurous - recall x 3
2009 Honda Sport Fit - no recall
Stowaway2 on swingaway tow frame - no recall
2002 Honda Odyssey EXL - now with a recall!
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AsheGuy
Raleigh, North Carolina
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Exactly. Price is a little steep but that is what is needed. You must be able to find the right search terms better than I. Thanks.
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Handbasket
Asheville, NC
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AsheGuy wrote:......When you say "'straight-wire' my notebook", are you saying you connected directly from a 12v auto plug to a DC connector for your notebook? If so, you are more gutsy than me.
......
Yep. It may be more accurate to call it a netbook, I dunno. A cheap little 'EEE PC' that I normally carry in the Tiger so I don't have to lug the laptop out & back in every time I go somewhere. It normally runs off a 12Vdc brick when on AC. I was fully fed up with buying mobile power supplies & chargers for everything, so figured I'd try this. It's been about a year now, on shore power, Onan, and all battery states. No problems so far. Posting this off low-ish house batteries from a no-hookups CG in MD on the shores of the Chesapeake. I've got the same sort of 12Vdc rig on my cheap little Magnet-box 'HD-ready' LCD TV. But I seldom use it, so can't give a definitive report... too few hours.
My guess is that your setup will do fine. But maybe having the 'puter battery in the circuit makes a difference; I'm pretty ignorant there. If it does fail eventually, it'll probably be hard to tell the difference between a 'normal' death and a voltage-related one. Good luck with it. I'll be looking for your user report.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
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