mtchp1
Mountain City, Texas
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Joined: 01/28/2009
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The door lock is siezes up and in the locked position. I haved tried crawling in throgh the back hatch and removin the lock but it is fastened with a screw from the bolt edge of the door. Any suggestions anyone? I do not want to call a locksmith and the camper is out of warranty.
Mitch
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jauguston
Bellingham, WA
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Joined: 07/03/2005
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If it is the typical Tri-Mark door latch that many RV's use often the tang on the back of the latch bolt breaks off. About the only way to get it open is to drill holes from the outside until you can get at the latch spring-pull it out then drill a shallow hole in the back end of the bolt so you can stick some kind of pry into the bolt and pry it out of the door jamb. It is a common failure and regularly stocked by most good RV repair shops in both black and white. Been there--done that.
I drilled a series of holes in the cast aluminum in a circle and broke the center of the circle out. Did it in a State Park.
Jim
Jim, Sharon and Buddy the Yorkie
1999 Gulfstream Sun Voyager 31' ISB Cummins 275
AIMS 2500w inverter 4-6v GC batteries
4-Kyocera 130w solar panels SB3024iL MPPT controller
Pressure Pro TPMS
1987 Suzuki Samurai tintop Toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel power
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SAR Tracker
SoCal
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Joined: 05/29/2003
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Might be a good weekend project of "preventive" maintenance... just remove the old one and stick in a new one. Assuming the new one is of better quality than the original?
Rusty & Cheryl & Serendipity (dog & Chief Security Officer)
2000 F150 4x4 5.4L/3.55 (120k miles and goin' STRONG!)
2008 Weekend Warrior FB2100
"Common sense is in spite of, not the result of, education" - Victor Hugo (1802-1885)
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BB_TX
McKinney, Texas
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Joined: 04/04/2005
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Similar thing on my 5th wheel. We have a laundry chute in the floor over the basement. Crawled thru the basement and up the chute to get inside. Took the inside plate off the lock set and managed to get the bolt to slide back with a screw driver. Loose screws had allowed the tang on the lock/unlock lever to come out of the bolt mechanism. Lubed it, put it all back together, and has worked fine ever since.
Reminds me that I need to check those screws again to make sure they have not come loose again.
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pulsar
Lewisville, NC
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Joined: 12/30/2001
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Good Sam RV Club Member
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Moved from Forum Technical Support to Tech Issues.
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Joined: 07/04/2006
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On mine I had to use a special "Pick" tool (This is actually designed for removing oil seals not picking locks) the one I used is like an ice pick (hence the PICK name) but the end is "L" shaped.. Actually any L-shaped tool would work
I was able to sneak it into the striker plate area and depress the plunger
Then I removed the striker bold and locked the door with the deadbolt till I was able to get a new 100 dollar Tri-Mark hunk of junk
I don't think much of Tri-mark locks in case you ahve not guessed.. The bolts are very cheaply made, better metal would be.. Way better.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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