Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Black tank valve won't close all the way!
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 > Black tank valve won't close all the way!

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Dave H M

IL

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Joined: 08/11/2006

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Posted: 03/11/10 07:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have had pretty decent service out of those romote ones.

That being said, I been there twice.

If all the suggestions do not work, I think it is time to get down and dirty. If you can locate the valve easily or cut a couple of test holes to find it, I have found it is a bunch easier to cut a square access hole in the underbelly leaving one side uncut as a hinge. Put in the new valve, close the flap and run a heavy patch/bead of good silicon for the reseal.

A side note on installing new valves that are in plain view where the piping dumps is that you run the gauntlet of freeze up in the winter. That is a real deal and that is why I got the extra mile to have the valves enclosed.

Virginia RVers

Williamsburg, VA

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Posted: 03/11/10 09:29am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same problem with my Paradise Pointe and took it back to the dealership to fix. They attempted to adjust it and it started again, so I put a cut off valve on the end of the tube to stop the "surprise" when I removed the cover cap. Now I hook up the sewer hose before I release the valve. I figure this was much easier than taking it back the dealership again. Good luck with your repairs.


2009 Dodge 3500 DRW, Cummins Diesel
2007 Crossroads Paradise Pointe PF36SK (Rolling Fun II)
Chelsea & Duncan (Traveling Scotty Dogs)

mr. ed

Madison, SD (but usually elsewhere)

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Posted: 03/11/10 06:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can install an extra termination valve assembly. They are available at most RV parts suppliers, don't cost much and are easy to install (just twist it on in place of the sewer outlet cap). This will contain the leakage until you get the problem fixed. You may even wish to keep it installed permanently as a preventive measure.


Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)

2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG
2007 Dodge Ram 3500/6.7 CTD/QC/4X4/SB/SRW/6-speed man/Big Horn edition


pyoung47

MO

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Posted: 03/11/10 06:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dude: Take it to the dealer.

1. Getting the underbelly stuff off is a pain.
2. Messing with the black tank stuff is messy.
3. You will probably just "foul" it up. (pardon)
4. Getting the underbelly stuff back on is a pain.

GBJohn

Michigan

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Posted: 03/11/10 07:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Before you start tearing off the underbelly or hauling it to the dealer, you might try backflushing the drain line a few times. I'm not talking about using the tank rinser (if you have that option), but the adapter you attach to the sewer outlet and run water back up the drain into the tank. Let it sit for a couple of minutes before you drain it out. If you've got something stuck in the valve, it might dislodge it.

dryfly

Texas

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Posted: 03/11/10 08:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the suggestions. Before I remove the belly cover I will try back flushing, as running numerous tanks of water through the valve has not caused the debris to dislodge. Obviously, if this is a cable problem that's another fix.

I feel the best way to repair and prevent this from being a future problem is to just re-plumb, and add manual valves in both lines. I could leave the remote valves where they are, just leaving them in the open position at all times. Really no need to remove them.

The lines could be plumbed to terminate together as they do now, or separate them and have 2 connections which would connect to the sewer hose. I'm going to give all of my options more consideration before I tear into this.

thanks,

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