Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Black tank valve won't close all the way!
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Fifth-Wheels

Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Black tank valve won't close all the way!

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next
dryfly

Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 11/16/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/10/10 06:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've noticed on my Crossroads Cruiser that the remote cables for both the black and grey water tank valves have been a little stiff. I had hoped that after a few months of use they would loosen up a little, but instead, now the valve on the black water tank will not completely close.

The handle on the cable stops about 1/2" short, just enough to allow the contents of the tank to trickle into the discharge line. I'm assuming the cable needs adjusting at the valve or there is something inside the valve i.e. tissue preventing the valve from fully closing.

I'm really am not crazy about having to remove the plastic undercover to get to the valve for repair but may have to.

Has anyone else ran into this issue? Any way to attempt to clean the inside grooves in the valve to remove debris? Trailer is still under warranty but rather handle it myself if possible.

RETIREDHSTEACHER

EASTERN L.I. NY

Senior Member

Joined: 03/15/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/10/10 06:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you are all done I'll bet you will say, "Gee, I should have let the dealer do this."

I've done this job. If mine was under warranty I would have taken it to the dealer in a NY minute.

Ed


[b/]2005 Sierra 2500 Duramax HD 4WD EXT Cab SLT
2006 Jayco Eagle 29RLTS
TTT Mirrors
Pullrite 16K Superglide
Garmin 7200 GPS
BrakeSmart
Mor-ryde Pin Box
60 gal. aux. fuel tank-toolbox combo
Porta-Bote- RV brackets on side of RV
and many more additions.

LadyRVer

Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 09/04/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 03/10/10 06:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Depending on where the slide valve is located, I have taken off the sewer hose (after a really good emptying and cleaning ) and used a wire coat hanger and ran it around the groove in the rubber seal where the valve slides into. Or, I was told to use a q-tip type thing and dip it in vegetable oil and run it around the groove. If the actual slide valve is way up inside (like a Class B I have), don't have any other suggestions except to "go fer it!" Going through all that work to removed the plastic undercover, I think I would just install a new dump valve, silicone it good, and be good to go for a while again. Hopefully someone can come up with better ideas and I can use one, too, on my B van (which is the grey tank at least)... good luck

timmyjimmy

utah

Full Member

Joined: 01/18/2010

View Profile



Posted: 03/10/10 07:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

short of taking the slide gate apart there's not a lot you can do. just make sure the tanks are empty and if I were to do this i would go ahead and install a new valve.

SidKaye

Mt Dora Florida, Montreal QC for the Summer

Senior Member

Joined: 09/03/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/10/10 07:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First thing to try is to fill your tank with water when you are connected to a dump/sewer. Then let the water water out all at once. Try that a couple of times. The rush of a large amount of water sometimes works to clear the debris in the valve. If for some reason the seals have become crimped, you will have to remove and repair.

Sidney


2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT,48RE, 4:10,Cummins HO Diesel,Quad Cab,LWB,SRW,PacBrake,Prodigy, X-Monitor Gauges,Line-X,Bedsaver

2002 Excel,Ltd,30RGW,Hughes Autoformer,Honda Eu1000i, ClearSpot 4G+,

http://www.kayepics.com

Gunpilot77

Killeen, Tx

Senior Member

Joined: 10/06/2000

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/10/10 07:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had that problem with my cable actuated valves on a regular basis. I finally got fed up enough to remove the entire waste water plumbing, designed and assembled a new one with the valve handles mounted to the frame and easy to access. Then installed new insulation and belly panels. NO more cables and never will I get one with them in the future.


Fifth wheel pulled with a pick-up

deereone

NE

Senior Member

Joined: 12/20/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/10/10 07:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had somewhat the same problem with cable operated valves. I have found if I push on the handle for a few seconds the valve will seat and not leak. After I dump once or twice more the valve cleans and is ok. But I still push on the handle a few seconds whenever I close the valve and find I do not have leaks.

ArkieVet

Fulltimer

Senior Member

Joined: 05/10/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 03/10/10 09:46pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In my opinion, cable operated valves are designed to fail. I've had them on two fivers. I replaced the black water valves on both with electrically operated valves. It is not a fun thing to do! Make sure that you flush the tanks extremely well, but you should still be prepared to smell like sewage for a while after you're done. It is much more pleasant to push a button to open and close a valve than it is to fight a flexible cable to get the valve to close. The valves on our current fiver are direct pull.


Retired U.S. Army SFC ('67 - '88)
(Infantry, AG Corps)
2009 F350 Crew Cab Dually PSD Tow Boss
2009 Cameo F35SB3 w/TST TPMS
Life Member DAV and MOPH


Dick_B

Palos Heights, IL USA

Senior Member

Joined: 07/10/2002

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 03/11/10 06:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the valve handles do not have a name on them they are probably made by Bristol and the cable cannot be shortened. The way the cables are routed to use up the 6 ft. length can create problems.
If you can get to them, replace the valves with Valterra whose cables can be adjusted and maybe re-route them.
Also, is there a chance that you left the black valves open while hooked up at a campground? If so, there might be `stuff' stuck in the grooves.


Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2011 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two bikes (both Electric Schwinn's with motor assist)

TomG100

North Royalton, Ohio

New Member

Joined: 08/19/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 03/11/10 07:12am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same problem under warranty. I took it to the dealer. He said he could fix it, but instead he recommended putting another valve about one foot from the exit pipe. That way it's not covered up by the underbelly, and it has a short rod rather than a 6-foot cable to open and close. The dealer can fix yours, but it probably won't be long until it acts up again once it's out of warranty.

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Black tank valve won't close all the way!
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Fifth-Wheels


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2012 Coast Resorts | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS