yizit
Central Wisconsin
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Hi everyone, we are in the process of looking for a Class B motorhome to do some traveling, visit family, and tulle around town. We want to keep the price down (under 40k) so an older version is our only option. The question is.....just how old to go? DH is concerned about going to old and having engine problems along our many miles traveling. Not so worried about the camper end of it. Which engine would you recommend and what is considered having "too many" miles before worrying about driving long distance? If an engine has been well maintained, does the age or mileage really matter? Finding one with low miles is doable from what we have been finding, but some of these are 7+ years old. Then there are the 4-6 year olds with higher mileage. We are big believers in keeping our vehicles well maintained, but we are not mechanics and worry about breakdowns with an "older" engine with low miles. Does the age add to the risk of break downs, or does higher mileage, assuming in both scenarios that the engines have been well maintained?
Jim & Darlene
Ewok our Llasa...Pickles our Shorkie Tzu
2004 Roadtrek Chevy 190 Popular (aka..Roada)
Wisconsin Dells...Water park capital of the world
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Islandman
NW Washington
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Don't think you will have any problem with a low mileage unit that is older, assuming that it was properly stored and maintained such as more frequent oil changes if not many miles were driven in a particular time period. For example if it was only driven 2K miles in a particular year, I'd would have changed the oil even though that might be overdoing it. Check belts, hoses, wiring, etc. for condition. Count on purchasing a set of tires if they're more than 5-7 years old, and maybe replace some belts and hoses too. A high mileage newer unit will have more wear and tear on the upholstery, appliances, running gear, and other mechanicals. Exterior paint condition is also important in determining how well the unit was stored and maintained.
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david_42
Oregon
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Joined: 04/08/2005
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Anything under 10 years old should be fine and less than 100K for most engines is good. As Islandman recommends, take the RV to a service station and have it gone over.
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Handbasket
Asheville, NC
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Joined: 01/17/2003
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You don't want to go back _too_ far... you start to get into designs that were inherently less reliable & returned less MPG.... mostly a matter of electronics and fuel delivery systems (lack of port fuel injection). Older can mean no overdrive. And there are some not-too-old engines that have known trouble spots, like Ford's 460 exhaust manifolds & studs. Older also means more chance of corrosion in electronic / electrical connectors.
Any older engine is a bit more likely to have things like fan belt or water hose failures. But these things are so much better made in the past couple of decades that they often seen to have almost infinite lifespans.
If you haven't already, read the FAQ's here on buying used... some good info there.
Jim, "I must be growing up... I own plants that I don't smoke!"
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigermotorhomes.com
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yizit
Central Wisconsin
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Thanks for responses. Your information and opinions will help us decide which route to go. When you don't know much about engines, it's nice to get feed back from someone else, whether it's good or bad. Sometimes you find out things you just hadn't thought of yourself.
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topless
Wichita, KS
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Mileage on engines is only part of the things to be concerned with. The drive train, suspension, and brakes factor in when the miles pile up.
Virtually any modern engine, with regular oil changes, will go over 100,000 miles with very problems. However, transmissions, suspensions and brakes need attention before 100,000 miles.
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edwardprzy
rockford, illinois
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Hi, I purchased a 1997 Roadtrek 190 Popular dodge 360 in 2006 with over 150,000 miles on it(almost 10 years old)(it looked as if a door was damaged and the front part - a decent fix not perfect - no big deal - the rest of it looked great -engine too). . I am the third owner. I put over 30,000 miles on it a one year. I traveled all over the USA and Canada, Even lived in it for over 7 months 4 day a week / through a whole winter. Tempertures went down below "0" on some days. I did regular fluid changes where they check out eveything and a grease job too(no lose of oil during oil changes). I had to have a new alternator installed while on the road some where in Texas. WE camped the night were we broke down and in the morning, the tow truck came to take us to the near by service center. 4 hours later we had a new belt and new alternator with a nation wide 12 warrantee and we were off and running. (good neighbor sam - free towing). A year or so, later, I put the Roadtrek in storage for over 2 years and when I took it out of storage, I took it for a oil change at a full lube service shop. It runs like new. Will leave for a two month trip in a few weeks with out any concerns about the unit.
When I was looking for a use motor home, I had the same concerns you have.
A very close mechanic friend, with over 28 years of daily working on vehicles - certified to fix most vehicles on the road today, told me: The dodge 360 seem to have the least thing going wrong with it, he preferred the 360 over the 318 and the other companies engines. He went to tell me that usually do not just happen - vehicles usually give us warning to let us know that something is wrong and help is usually a phone call away.
At the time a new one for $85,000 + taxes vs"s $15,000 dollars used new looking used one? And think - If I purchased a new one for the %85,000 + and put the 30,000 miles on it and let it sit for 2-1/2 year - what would it be worth today? \
If I can keep it to under 60 mph I can get that 25 miles to a gallon. Really a typo error - 15 mpg. But, It drives so easy to drive - like driving a mini van with more spirit! - it is easy to find myself keep up with the 70+mpg traffic. All of the coach items work fine. I did have an issue about a rough ride over bumps, But, yes, I did upgrade to new front shocks and air shocks in the back and correct tire pressure and all was ok. It is the best van --- and vehicle I have ever owned. and I had two other motorhomes 27' and lots of vans and large cars Eldorado, delta 88,etc.
If you feel a unit has an issues - offer a price which covers the cost to replace or repair the issue you feel the unit has. Find out the cost to fix the issue or the cost to overhall the engine at a good sevice center. Include the cost to rent a car and the difference between camping an staying at a hotel to finish a trip. It is a buyers market! Just do not purchase a unit based on pure emotions - You will always find a unit that you like better than this one/ special one you found and you will always find one at a better price. You just have to wait and look!
Good luck to you, happy trails to you!
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dmartin@newarts.com
Ames, IA
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Joined: 02/13/2004
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Islandman wrote:.......... Check belts, hoses, wiring, etc. for condition. Count on purchasing a set of tires if they're more than 5-7 years old, and maybe replace some belts and hoses too. ..............
Most rubber containing belts, tubes, etc naturally degrade with time due to atmospheric oxygen. They may look good, but bend them and they'll crack.
If you get an older vehicle, it is smart to invest a little up-front and replace critical rubber belts, coolant hoses, heater hoses, etc. The cost and aggravation of doing them all at once is a LOT lower than doing them one at a time when you are 70 miles from nowhere.
Believe me; I've been there (blown heater hose - Mojave desert.)
I don't mean that old rubber is a reason to avoid buying an old camper - not at all as it is a trivial cost to bring things up to snuff preemptively.
ON EDIT: I like old motors; I understand them well enough to fix them or find an old mechanic who knows how to fix them. Parts and expertise are available everywhere for the common gassers, even rural Mexico.
* This post was
edited 03/08/10 03:47am by dmartin@newarts.com *
1980 Born Free 22' Class C (minus) - 1985 Honda Scooter
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Terra-Sea
Pacific NW
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I certainly had to consider this question when I bought our '91 B for $4000. It has 97,000 miles on a 318. However, I had records indicating that it was well maintained. Also, the good condition of the exterior paint indicated it has been stored indoors much of it's life.
Given this, it became a question of worst case scenario. A transmission replacement is $1500. Replacing the engine, $4000. Even with these catastrophies, I'm further ahead than buying a newer one for $15,000 or more.
1991 Dodge Ram 250 Turtle Top (aka Turdle)
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Jeff49783
Sault Ste. Marie, MI
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Great thread, lots of good information.
I don't want a motor that has been used for 2K miles per year. The inactivity allows condensation to form, corrosion to begin, and seals to dry. I firmly believe that sitting is worse for the equipment than frequent use. I see ads for B's with "only 6 hours on the generator" and other similar "plusses". That generator is probably going to need some serious maintenance. The airplane engine manufacturers recommend a rebuild at published TBO (time between overhaul), or 12 years regardless of hours. I realize we don't have aircraft engines in our campers; however, some of us store them in poorer conditions and don't properly operate or maintain them. Food for thought.
When you are looking for a unit, key on the one where the owner tells you about his regular use of EVERYTHING on the unit. Burners, refrigeration, and engines need to be used!
Good Luck
Jeff
2006/2007 Roadtrek SS Agile 40K miles
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