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 > You can save a lot (and I mean a LOT!) on oil changes!

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StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Joined: 07/16/2003

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Posted: 03/02/10 04:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

for anyone that is interested this is the bypass system I use. there are others, I just decided on this one because of the type of filter, and other info I read about. they used to be called oilguard but looks liek they are jumping on the eco thing to get more exposure.

http://www.oilguard.com/ecomisulu.html

Steve

randallb

On the road

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Joined: 11/19/2007

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Posted: 03/02/10 04:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

centerpin and mr ed,
Please elaborate on the statements of more soot and fuel dilution in the later DPF equipped engines. You have a better controlled fuel injection compared to the earlier produced engines and the mileage is similar between the 2 generations of engines. So please explain how these conditions occur.
Thanks,
Randy

Dave H M

IL

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Posted: 03/02/10 04:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What is all the noise about warranty. i had my 7.3 in for warranty work a few times and Ford did not even mention service. Now 11 years and 140 K miles later it is still rattling along.

Common guys someone come up with the scoop on all the "void the warranty" posts.

LarryJM

NoVa

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Joined: 11/09/2007

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Posted: 03/02/10 05:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

An oil change on my 7.3L takes about 13qts at $11/gal or about $33 in oil and another $10 for the filter and I have changed it even with heavy towing about every 4,500miles. I have done OA (13 so far)since new and the oil is always good, but don't do OA to extend the interval since $40 every 4,500 miles is reasonable for what I use my Van for. I use OA to check for potential problems such as turbo bearings going and to watch how well my air filter is doing and to watch for fuel/antifreeze contamination issues.

Larry


2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
ALL TRAILER MODS>>ETERNABOND INSTALL>>RAINKAP INSTALL



Center Pin

Fort Langley, BC

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Posted: 03/02/10 05:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

randallb wrote:

centerpin and mr ed,
Please elaborate on the statements of more soot and fuel dilution in the later DPF equipped engines. You have a better controlled fuel injection compared to the earlier produced engines and the mileage is similar between the 2 generations of engines. So please explain how these conditions occur.
Thanks,
Randy


This isn't the study I was looking for however it addresses it well

TSB: Fuel Dilution Issues in 2007-10 Light-Duty Diesel Trucks


Trailer: 07 Tango 299BHS w/ 225/70R15 LT Load Range D

TV: 2004.5 Dodge 610 CTD 3500 QC 48RE 2wd Laramie SRW, FP Gauge, FASS 95/95, Rhino Lining, Hensley Arrow, Air Bags & Compressor, Canopy, Custom Boat Rack.
Been running B100 home brew June 2008!


Center Pin

Fort Langley, BC

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Posted: 03/02/10 05:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another interesting read Lubricant additive addresses fuel dilution issues with biodiesel blends. As I understand it some states already mandate B5 blends, so something for the DPF crowd to be aware of.

RRUGG

Newaygo, MI,USA

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Posted: 03/02/10 05:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My owners manual says 7500 miles but most of the miles on the truck are towing so I change between 6000 and 7000.


RRUGG
2009 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ 1500 4x4 5.3L
2011 Kodiak 281RLGS travel trailer
2011 Egg Camper
2010 Chrysler Town & Country
Good Sam life members
Bob & Grace professional retirees


Camped in 49 states. Missing Hawaii.

MackinawMan

NW Ohio

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Posted: 03/02/10 05:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IMHO it REALLY depends on your driving conditions both environment-wise and also how you work your TV.

I live in NW Ohio...the weather is not extreme here either way. It's not blistering hot for long periods of time nor is it arctic cold for long periods of time.

As for how I work my X, it really only tows the TT and that's it, any other time it's a "normal driver". Added to that, it never does "in town" driving with lots of starts and stops or trips where it doesn't run long.

I live in a real small town (one stoplight), and almost anything we do causes us to travel to a bigger town 10 miles away...so highway driving is the norm.

I normally change mine every 7000 or so in my X...


2000 Ford F350 XLT 7.3L PSD CC 4x4 OffRoad SRW Long Bed
2008 Jayco Eagle 314BHDS (Momma Eagle)
Equalizer Hitch System (1400/14000lbs)
Prodigy Brake Controller
Curt XD Class V Receiver Hitch (1500/15000 lb)

Chrisatthebeach

The beautiful low country of South Carolina

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Posted: 03/02/10 05:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 7.3 Ford and I do mine between 7500 and 8000. Ford dealer said I could go longer, but it takes me close to a year to get to 8000 miles.
I use Rotella and have noticed zero oil consumption to date.


Chris & Dianne plus two boys, both of them are Eagle Scouts.
Jayco Designer 3110
F250 PSD 4x4 Crew Cab

McZippie

USA

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Joined: 10/21/2009

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Posted: 03/02/10 06:16pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Changing oil at 3000 miles or every 3 months (which ever comes first) is pure marketing by the Quickie Lube industry to increase sales. It's almost as brilliant as the marketing guy who dreamed up the scam to double shampoo sales. "Shampoo, lather, rinse, repeat"

I wonder if there are really any people that would change their oil after 3 months if they only drove a few miles???


Tow Vehicle - 2009 Ford 6.0 Diesel - aka Walmart Boondocker
Toad - 2010 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited


Info Clicky


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