cannesdo
Presently in Mesa, AZ
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Just remembered -- the fridge needs 12V power to work, I remember that from when I had to turn it upside down a few months ago, so it doesn't work on either electric *or* gas because it doesn't have that coming in. That's why the light inside died.
Ok, off to get a battery charger. Man I about had a freaking heart attack thinking my fridge was dead again.
Question though. When the fridge isn't working, but it's connected to the gas, is that dangerous? I have the gas off now and I guess I'll leave it off but my guess is it doesn't get the gas unless the fridge is on, but I don't want to take any chances.
I need valium...Honestly, I need valium.
Another questions -- how do I protect against this in the future -- protect the fridge -- can I just put a surge protector out there in the box where it's plugged in? I'm putting protectors on everything from now on. Did I read somewhere there's something you can put on the post itself?
j.
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smkettner
Southern California
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Fridge is fine. No voltage, no gas valve opens.
The charger was probably over worked more than the chance of a surge killed it. Another reason to spend money on a converter as they have more amps and are made for continuous service. So I would spend the $100 on a converter before a surge protector. The 120v side of the fridge is just a resistance heater and IMO is not going to be harmed by a surge like other things electronic.
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cannesdo
Presently in Mesa, AZ
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Ok, you guys are way ahead of me. I wrote before I read. I really hope that's it.
The problem with these converter-only units is that my cords, coming from the battery, are too big (huge red cords (5/8" diameter) and they have these metal loops on the end that attach to my invert/convert combi unit. Most converters like this, you just stick the wire into a hole in the back of the unit. I've been told I'd have to replace all the cords coming from the batteries of I were to use one of those. Anyone know of a converter that can take that kind of connector? It looks like the cables connected to a truck battery. Just bolted down with red and black plastic caps over the top of them.
This is what the connectors look like:
I don't really need the inverter. I'm staying put longer at each place now and am not on the road much. But is there an inverter that takes this kind of bolted down connector rather than the sort of stereo wire connection?
This unit is wired for that combi unit and I finally conclude I have to replace it with the same kind of unit. When they upgrade to that at the factory, they use different wiring. They might be able to fix my unit though.
Thanks for the help.
J.
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smkettner
Southern California
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Just remove that unit and replace with the linked converter. The cables on the inverter/charger are heavier for the large draw when inverting and are not needed with the replacement. If those cables are #2 or smaller I believe you could cut them and they will slide right into the converter connectors. Or you can buy the lugs and wire (#8) if needed to put on the 12 volt ends and even add shrink tube if you like.
The 120 volt side of the new converter can connect in the same place as the 120 volt wires of the inverter.
The only difference is the power will flow one way to the battery and will no longer flow out when inverting to power 120 volt items.
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cannesdo
Presently in Mesa, AZ
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Wow, have no idea how to do any of that. You mean get some 8 gauge wire and just wrap it around the loops and then cover it with something to keep it insulated? And my coverter that fried was 100 amp (amp?) -- is there any problem getting a smaller converter? I've got four batteries -- could that shoot too much juice through a 35-55 amp converter? Is it more about what the converter *draws*? It will power fewer things than the 100 amp but won't fry the converter, correct?
I got a new charger today and it's giving me an error message. Saying that the batteries have some internal error, that I need to get the batteries checked, that they can't be charged. So I guess I drag them to walmart tomorrow to get checked? And how do I get those puppies out of there without accidentally crossing the pos/neg ends. They're linked up to each other all over the place.
These batteries have been through a lot the last few months. Charging and draining and recharging. They were new in 07 (manufac. date on them is June 06) and I think they might have frozen one or two nights last week when I left the charger off and just kept the interior warm with electric heat, and that's about the time the charger stopped working. They were open and exposed to the elements. I'd been doing this so long that I forgot that without the charger they weren't going to stay warm. Could that be enough to kill the batteries permanently? I'm guessing that did it. Maybe that's why the charger died. The batteries have just given up the fight, charger tried to charge them and couldn't. And maybe the charger froze too.
Looks like I'm going to need four new batteries (two were enclosed in the rig with their door shut, but it did accidentally get down to 28 in the basement one night) so I'm guessing either two or all four need replacing. Lessons learned...the hard way. Then I'll get the inverter fixed, or figure out how to jerryrig a converter connector that won't burn the place down, and I should be back in business.
If I have the fridge on "off" then even if it's connected to the gas, it shouldn't be a problem to have the main gas valve on, should it? That gas only runs into the fridge when set on "gas" and "on" right?
j.
* This post was
edited 03/17/09 07:01pm by cannesdo *
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cannesdo
Presently in Mesa, AZ
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smkettner wrote:Just remove that unit and replace with the linked converter. The cables on the inverter/charger are heavier for the large draw when inverting and are not needed with the replacement. If those cables are #2 or smaller I believe you could cut them and they will slide right into the converter connectors. Or you can buy the lugs and wire (#8) if needed to put on the 12 volt ends and even add shrink tube if you like.
Ok, gave this more thought. It looks like the big red/black cords are 2/0 (what's that...just 2 gauge? Why "/0"?) I took off the electric tape and that paddle is just crimped onto the end, but the wires look a lot thicker (at least 3/8" than the holes in the 75 amp converter I bought a few months ago (and resold because I didn't think it would work) -- they were 1/4" max. So I'll need whatever gauge matched the amps of the converter I buy, correct? What's a lug?
Update: I'm an IDIOT. Despite several suggestions to check the water level, I kept forgetting and they were almost dry! All the way down there. So I refilled with distilled and the first battery charger IS damaged, still faulting (probably because the batteries were dry -- almost) but the new one seems to be doing the trick. The fridge is powered on and the batteries are a chargin'....
Glad this happened because I now realize I can get an converter in there after all which is going to save me big bucks. I'll get a little inverter later for tv at truckstops.
Man, what a day. Many lessons learned. Thanks all for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it.
J.
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smkettner
Southern California
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2/0 is much larger than #2 wire and will not fit the converter.
#8 duplex wire $1.77 per foot
Lugs for #8 wire $1.13 (aka paddle)
You can get similar at a decent electric shop, boat shop or hardware store.
35 amp converter will do fine with four batteries. Certainly a lot better than the 10 amp charger. For best results up the wire to #4. The WFCO will also minimize water usage with a 13.2 float mode.
* This post was
edited 03/17/09 11:48pm by smkettner *
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smkettner
Southern California
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cannesdo wrote:If I have the fridge on "off" then even if it's connected to the gas, it shouldn't be a problem to have the main gas valve on, should it? That gas only runs into the fridge when set on "gas" and "on" right?
With the fridge off there should be no gas flow. With the fridge on automatic and you are plugged in there should also be no gas flow as it operates from 120v power.
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cannesdo
Presently in Mesa, AZ
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Ahhhh, ok, that thing is called a lug! Thanks for the links! So do I just bolt those two lugs together?...the lug on one end of the new wire and the lug on the end of the 2/0 wire?, and then the other end of the new wire goes into the converter, yes? And I should just need a short length of the new wire, right? Just need to get it stepped down so it can fit into the converter...
Yeah, it will be a huge relief to get this thing off life-support. Since I'm staying here through the summer I've been slow to take care of this and was convinced I had to fix or replace the unit I already have.
Thanks for the info on the gas. That's what common sense tells me but we had half a city block blow up here a few weeks ago. A break in the pipe led to gas collecting for weeks and one morning at 8:15 am one morning something sparked it and it blew. Killed one woman opening an art gallery. Would have been so much worse if it had blown at noon. One of the businesses that blew was a restaurant that would have been full of people. Really has me freaked out about being connected to this big tank of propane.
j.
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cannesdo
Presently in Mesa, AZ
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p.s. How did you know I was looking at WCFO?  Found a barely used one, cheap, guaranteed not to be DOA. Figure it's worth a shot. Has the three stage charging...float...seems like it'll do the trick.
Someone else on this site said they felt WCFO was "JUNK" so that had me a little worried but I'm glad to see you mention it...For $75, even if it does die, I'm not out much.
j.
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