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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Is this type of plug OK with an Atwood water heater?
That's the type of quick removal plug used for boat drains. The rubber should adequately isolate the metals for purposes of galvanic action, don't know how it would do with heat. I don't think it would pass code for a residential water heater, but there is no code enforcement on RVs.
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tatest
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05/25/12 02:06pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Why steal a truck tailgate?
Because there is someone in that area who will pay good money for stolen tailgates.
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tatest
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05/25/12 02:01pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Where is the Chalet???
Nothing on the website because that is for retail customers and Winnebago does not sell the Chalet retail. That line is for fleet sales, which mostly means rentals.
The Chalet line may have similar floorplans to some retail models, but trim and equipment might be different. For example may have vinyl in places a Minnie, Spirit, Access or Outlook would have had carpet, more utilitarian but less fragile fixtures.
Other manufacturers have done the same, you find "special" models on the used market that weren't in retail catalogs. Some names have been cycled back and forth between retail and fleet, but Pathfinder and Roadmaster come to mind from Coachmen, and Gulfstream once used the Yellowstone name for fleet models.
You will find the Chalet name on Ford and Chevy chassis C's, Sprinter chassis C's and A gassers. I've not yet seen a Chalet diesel pusher.
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tatest
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05/25/12 01:41pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Pre-wired for backup camera?
Winnebago was pre-wiring for the camera in high-end models around 2004-2005 when cameras started becoming more common. I don't know if they still do it, and don't know what Gulfstream does.
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tatest
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05/25/12 01:24pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: WHY is there a STEP behind drive/ pass seats ?
To raise the house 6-8 inches above the chassis rails and provide under-floor space for utilities (plumbing and tanks mostly) that would otherwise be above floor level using space inside. What isn't used up for utilities is usually made into pass-through storage. You also gain that much height in all of the below-floor outside bins.
If the model has slideout rooms, the mechanism for the slideout might go in the basement space. Not always, I have one in the basement, the other with mechanism inside the slide and pass-through storage under that slide, instead.
Lower step, or level floor, means less below-floor storage. It is a design choice, and because not all C's have this "basement" it is also a buyers choice. When a manufacturer makes both types, the C's without basement will be the less expensive model line, it costs something to do this.
Some manufacturers (LazyDaze comes to mind) don't do basements, to preserve a lower profile and lower CG and center of pressure, for better mileage and handling.
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tatest
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05/25/12 01:21pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Rt 60 Bridges
I've crossed the US-60 bridges at Cairo at least twice in my C, so many times by car I've lost count. Most of the traffic is large trucks.
I've not had to pull in my mirrors. The only bridge I had to do that was the US-54 bridge at Louisiana, when they were painting and down to one 10-foot lane. Had to pull them in only where there were workers, to give them a little more room, because my mirrors were at back to head level.
You may be more uncomfortable with the roads approaching and leaving the river, than with the bridges themselves. These are also narrow and not particularly straight on the Kentucky side.
Living on US-60, it is one of my routes to the Mississippi and points north and east. I've also taken it west. At one time or another I've driven 60 from Fort Sumner to Hampton Roads, all of it is good for driving a RV. Sections in eastern Kentucky, West Virginia, and western Virginia now route onto Interstate.
Rt-60 is fine in the context of "crossing the Mississippi and Ohio." There is no I-60, and there is no other route that crosses both rivers at one location. People who know the crossing know what you are talking about.
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tatest
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05/24/12 08:47pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Colorado National Park
I've been there three times. My RV fit through the tunnels. So did all the rental RVs going through the area.
Whether or not it is worth a visits depends on your interests and attitudes. As a geologist I find it interesting. Resting against the mountains, not as deeply eroded, it is higher in the section than other places out on the plateau. Other people might say "just some more canyons and rocks" and head for the outlet mall.
Coming from the east, Colorado NM is a preview of what you are going to see as you cross the Colorado Plateau towards Bryce, Zion, or the Grand Canyon. Coming from the southwest through Utah, the NM is a smaller version of what you've been through, if you stopped to see any of that.
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tatest
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05/24/12 08:14pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: 12V disconnect switch will not turn on
Don't know your brand, mine is Winnebago. There are a lot of tricky or unexpected things about 12V wiring in a C motorhome, and they are not all the same.
Steps get power from the starting battery. If my steps won't move, I know it isn't going to start.
Disconnect switch is energized from the house batteries. If those are too low, the switch won't switch.
When plugged in, the 12V stuff in the house works whether or not batteries are disconnected, but the battery disconnect won't switch positions, so it must be energized from the battery side.
Generator running is the same as being plugged in; I plug into the generator. If the house batteries are down, I'm not likely to get the generator started, though sometimes if the engine is running well above an idle I can pull enough current from the alternator to start the generator.
When I can start the generator, and it doesn't feed the house 12V, it is usually because I forgot to plug into the generator. Once it was because I had an open circuit in the entrance box for the power cord.
Other points of failure, not getting 12V when plugged into generator (or outside power) include the 120V breaker feeding the converter charger, and the 12V fuses on the output of the converter charger.
Points of failure for not getting power from 12V house batteries include battery connections, ground connections, and the main 12V fuse or breaker. That's in addition to the sometimes troublesome remote relay used for the disconnect.
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tatest
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05/24/12 05:50pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: RV Parking City Ordnances
I think it's pretty damn sad when your told what you can and can't have or do on your own property. We have no such laws up here in NH, and if we did I'd sell out and move. I can understand street parking, but in your own driveway??
Give me a break !!!
The street in front of the OP's house is not his property, it is public right of way.
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tatest
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05/24/12 05:21pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: RV Parking City Ordnances
I can't park ANYTHING on the street in front of or beside my house for more than two hours, and I'm not even in a place most of you would consider a city. Parking ordinances are what they are.
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tatest
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05/24/12 05:20pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Bias Tires Issues
The tires are not round, or out of balance, or you have both problems. It is not something that improves with age. You might be thinking of flat-spotting, that is not what is happening.
When all tires except Michelin X and Pirelli's Cinturato were bias ply, and nylon was introduced as a replacement for cotton tire cord, there was problem with unbelted nylon tires flat-spotting while parked for a long period of time, but that was something that went away in 2-5 minutes of driving.
Changing to polyester for tire cord, and putting circumferential belts on tires (glass, aramid, steel belts) made the flat-spotting problem disappear.
Unbelted bias-ply tires are still available, and you should be able to find examples that are truly round. They are used in racing, implement and other off-road applications, as well as smaller size trailer tires. It sounds like you've gotten your hands on some really low quality trailer tires. Good bias tires are hard to find.
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tatest
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05/24/12 11:36am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Euro motorhomes... why don't we have these in the USA?
Because we have a history of not buying them when available?
U.S. motorhomes in the late 60's started out that size, and smaller, some under 5000 pounds with 100-120 HP six cylinder engines (check out the F19). When bigger ones were produced we bought those instead. Kept getting bigger and bigger, like our houses and cars.
Winnebago and Safari made attempts in the 70s and 80s to downsize again, then Winnbago again in the late 20th and early 21st century with motorhomes on Renault and VW chassis under 7000 pounds, with small gas and diesel engines. Thor and Winnebago are trying again, smaller boxes on lighter chassis with smaller engines, in some cases turbodiesels.
Asking the question is a bit like asking why we don't live in 400-600 sq ft Euro houses and drive 2000 pound 50-60 HP cars. At various times, even recently, we have those choices available but most of us choose to have something bigger, and what we will buy determines what will be made for us.
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tatest
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05/24/12 11:05am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Why don't bugs fly higher
What's up there to make it worth while to expend the energy? Most flying insects will be eating close to the ground.
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tatest
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05/24/12 10:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Canton, Tx to Amarillo, TX
I would take TX-19 north to Paris, pick up US-271 north to the Indian Nation Turnpike, then that from Hugo to Henryetta. That gets you to I-40, straight across to Amarillo.
This has been my preferred route from NE Oklahoma to Houston the past several years, running down to Houston every 3-6 months for wife's medical care. 19 goes right through Canton, bypasses the DFW area by at least 60 miles, usually with light traffic (except the short stretch from I-20 to Canton on trading days) and high speed limits most of the way.
From Paris, the only really congested spot on 19 is Canton itself. The rest of the slow or moderately congested spots (Athens, Palestine, Crockett) are all in the other direction. North of Paris, US-271 and the Indian Nation are high speed divided highways with almost zero traffic.
If you want to skim the south side of Dallas, the way to do it is I-20. But going that way, I wouldn't take 35W to get to US-287, I would stay on I-20 to US-180, across to US-271 to pick up US-287 at Wichita Falls. It is a few more miles, but doesn't go through the middle of Fort Worth, and the mess of suburban traffic the first 15-20 miles out from I-35W. But I would go through DFW and travel US-287 if I planned to stop in Wichita Falls to visit family. If my objective was Amarillo, my route would be I-40.
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tatest
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05/23/12 05:26pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Man tries to climb Mt Rushmore
It was once a permitted activity.
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tatest
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05/23/12 04:22pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Air Card for Internet Service
What do you mean unlimited usage?
Most prepaid programs are now so many dollars for so many GB, if you want more you simply buy more. No limits on how much data you can buy, but there is a limit on amount of time you have to use what you've bought, either a day, week or 30 days, from time of activation for each data increment.
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tatest
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05/23/12 04:13pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: What Camping equipment does a first time camper need?
Watch how they start on "Survivor," the reality/competition TV show. You can start with very little, but you can't bear to stay at that level long, if you are accustomed to more "civilized" living.
You will NEED food, clothing to keep you warm and dry (might include a blanket for sleeping, but not necessary), and a supply of drinkable water. At the next level, you will want shelter if it rains, something to start a fire if you want food cooked. Rain shelter can be clothing, something as simple as a poncho for each person.
When you want more comfort, it gets more complex. If you desire food that needs to be kept cold, a cooler. For convenience in cooking, a camp stove or grate for your fire, and pots and pans. To stay dry as a group, and maybe have some privacy, a tent, or something to quickly build a tent or shed-like shelter. If you want to get around in the dark, with more than moonlight or starlight, you need portable fire such as torches, lanterns, flashlights.
My personal minimum is a tent, sleeping bag, small cooler of food, mess kit (cooking and eating implements), 2 quart canteen, a change of clothing, and a flashlight. Car camping I'll carry my campstove, lantern, and fuel. For a group, I have a set of nesting pots sized to cook for more than one person at a time. Sleeping bags aren't necessary, as kids we started with blanket rolls (Handbook for Boys told us how to make them).
I have backpacking friends who will do without the tent (OK if doesn't rain and you don't mind waking up with dew on your face) and food that needs to be chilled or cooked (they live a few days on trail mix, jerky, cereal and nut bars). I've backpacked only to places where I would have shelter.
With two and ten year olds, you will want shelter. If you want them to ever go camping again, you need to feed them above a survival level, i.e. familiar foods prepared in a familiar way, thus needing refrigeration and cooking equipment.
I think a good start for a camping experience with kids that age (assuming no RV or tent yet) would be to book a camping cabin. We have these in our state parks, and you will find them in KOA campgrounds and some other commercial campgrounds. These usually have beds (cot-type frames, you bring your own bedding), table and chairs, lighting, sinks with running water, and a place to cook, although they may not always have stoves.
Commercial parks often have "camping cottages" which are more like fully furnished houses, might have air conditioning and satellite or cable TV. That might not be what you want for camping.
Rental of a camping cabin at a commercial park, a couple days might cost as much as a really cheap four person tent. You don't want to take your family camping in a really cheap four person tent. Better to first find out if this is something you want to do as a family, then decide on a good to better quality family size tent with more room, or at a higher level of comfort, a camping trailer.
My current RVing activity, driving around a house that is nicer and better equipped than the one I grew up in, is not, to me, camping, although for many of the people I go out with, they consider it camping. So what they need is a house on wheels, and that might be what you need, if that is your expectation and lifestyle minimum.
But for a starting, I suggest taking a cooler, food and cooking stuff, and some bedding out to a park with camping cabins, and figure out if that is the camping experience you want. You might want more comfort, you might want more primitive, but I think it is a good middle place for a first experience with minimal investment.
Don't be afraid to talk to your campground neighbors. If I feel like camping, I might be there in my tent; if I am on a road trip, I might be there in my house on wheels. There will be others like me either way, most happy to talk to you about what they are doing and help you find your way.
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tatest
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05/23/12 02:19pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: built in gas latern in camper?
Don't use it if the idea scares you.
Our 1960 vintage travel trailer had gas mantle lights. We found them something new to get used to, but no great risk to use.
Most homes had gas lighting, in the era before electric lighting, if they were in cities with gas service; back then, city gas from coking was highly toxic, unlike LPG and natural gas. If they didn't have city gas, they lit with candles and oil lamps.
Many people who grew up cooking and lighting with gas were slow to convert to electricity because they were afraid of electricity. It could burn the house down or electrocute you if you weren't careful; they understood the risks of gas, knew how to deal with them.
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tatest
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05/23/12 01:27pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Class C vs Class B+
Gulfstream coined "B+" in marketing the BT Cruiser; several other companies (Dynamax, CoachHouse, BornFree and Chinook) had been making a C without the over-cab bedroom for years without calling it a B+, even though two of those companies got there from growing beyond their original "B" business.
The same company coined "Super C" to market a C on a DOT class 5 chassis, although other companies had been making motorhomes on Class 4 to Class 8 cab-chassis without calling them Super C.
Many C's marketed as B+ are slightly narrower and lower than the majority of C's, but that is not always the case. They cover the same range of lengths, 21 to 30+ feet.
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tatest
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05/23/12 01:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Driving in Big Cities
I use the Interstate Highways or freeways and tollways designated for heavy truck traffic to drive THROUGH cities that size. I stay in the truck lanes, trying to avoid the merging lane if at all possible, drive so that I am not tailgating, and don't change lanes unless I have to for exits, interchanges, and lane merges, and try to make those changes as early as I can.
I've been through all the cities in your list, don't really consider any of them "big" except for Phoenix, and for it's size, Phoenix is pretty easy. DesMoines and Kansas City are a lot easier to drive around. You can drive somewhat around Oklahoma City in some directions using the one tollway, but the way the intersections work, it is usually easier just to stay on the Interstate and go through.
Driving IN the city is another matter, with the need to find parking, and to avoid streets that are forbidden to large vehicles or too clogged to fit through. The best strategy for getting around in the city is to know which streets are used by the transit buses, and use those if they are legal. But even on transit routes you have to be careful, because modern buses are much lower than most RVs, and while you might have driven on any street used by the old GMC "New Bus" of the '50s, you will encounter newer transit routes with lower clearances.
Another approach for getting around in the city, and safer than transit routes but probably more restricted, are the designated routes for delivery trucks. You can get maps of designated truck routes from either the state highway department or municipal traffic department, but they often don't take you many places, mostly warehouse districts, loading docks, and terminals. Some of those (downtown Chicago for example) are restricted to commercial traffic only, making deliveries.
Cities I've gotten of the freeways and driven through with a RV include Houston, Memphis, Kansas City, and Nashville; of those only Houston is really big, but the downtown areas of Memphis are old with narrow lanes, and Nashville has an winding 18th century street pattern, with several different grids superimposed and the whole thing complicated by being in the loop of a river and many streets got cut off when the freeways were put in so what you think was a good route is suddenly a dead end.
The best advice I think I can give about driving in the city is to know well in advance what you want to do and how you intend to do it. You can't get off the through freeways without a plan, and expect to stay out of trouble.
If I want to avoid a city, I try to avoid it by at least 50 miles, which usually means using the U.S. numbered highways going through a lot of small cities and towns, to avoid taking the Interstate non-stop through a big urban mess like St. Louis or Atlanta.
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tatest
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05/23/12 12:58pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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