| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Leak in exhaust manifold
The best way I've found to locate exhaust leaks is to use a length of thin tubing (like an old brake line) with a 90° bend in one end (not kinked) and a couple of feet of hose on the other end. I place the hose near my ear while moving the bent end of the tube around each connection and near all potential crack sites. There is no mistaking the location of the leak(s).
|
sum1
|
01/11/12 12:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Is five years to long to run front tires
Just like the "Risk Factors of Heart Disease", there are several things to consider with tires. Some will kill your tires now, some are less dangerous. Besides obvious road damage like running over large, pointy objects or sidewall-cutting curbs, the most common cause of tire failure is a combination of 1) sitting unused for long periods 2) on a hard surface 3) while underinflated. Visiting a motorhome after a six month storage period and finding it sitting on a flat is reason enough for me to replace the tire(s) immediately, even if in otherwise new condition. Remove or reduce any of these factors and the risk is reduced. A properly inflated tire driven daily or stored off the ground and well covered would be the opposite end of the spectrum and could be good for 10 years plus.
|
sum1
|
01/10/12 11:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: RUNNING COOL
Could also be the gauge or sender, but it never hurts to replace an old thermostat to start with.
|
sum1
|
01/10/12 11:17pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: fuel tank filler hose?
I would not hesitate to use it. I don't have any technical info, but marine fill hoses I've used seemed to be of superior construction to any automotive ones I've used.
|
sum1
|
01/10/12 10:47pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Makeup air for the furnace
Like Jim Cindy, I understand your question to be a concern for replacement for air lost from within the "cabin" since some of that air is going into the "belly". Your thinking is sound. And yes, combustion air should be drawn separately from outside.
If the belly is open to the outside by way of cracks and other leaks, you may indeed create a negative pressure in the cabin. This typically will be partially equalized by sucking air from every little leak in the cabin. Windows, doors, fixtures, etc.
If the belly is truly sealed from the outside and to the cabin, it will not accept air and the negative pressure in the cabin will not be created. The belly may not be warmed, however. This sounds like what you have now.
If there is now a return air means from the belly, or if one can be created, all of the above is minimized. If you do create a return air circuit from the belly, I suggest placing it in or very near the furnace return.
Wanna take it a step further? Install an outside makeup air using a gravity or spring-loaded intake "valve" to the furnace return. This may actually create a positive pressure in the cabin and belly virtually eliminating drafts at windows, etc. Now we've really gone too far, but I have created such systems and the concept is commonplace in commercial buildings.
|
sum1
|
11/17/11 03:06am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Panel Tilting/Twirling Mechanisms--Need Ideas!
When judging a state science fair a few years back, I evaluated a project submitted by a high school student that used differential output from two small sensor panels mounted on the main panel to trigger a tracking servo motor, IIRC. Rather than a smooth, continuous motion, its design suggested incremental adjustments as the sun "travelled" across the sky, increasingly exposing the westerly angled sensor panel as the the easterly angled received less direct light. Sharp kid.
|
sum1
|
11/17/11 02:30am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Cargo Rack
Here's California's version:
LAMP OR FLAG ON PROJECTIONS:
Per CVC Section 24604, whenever the load upon any vehicle extends, or whenever any integral part of any vehicle projects, to the rear four feet or more beyond the rear of the vehicle, as measured from the taillamps, there shall be displayed at the extreme end of the load or projecting part of the vehicle:
a solid red or fluorescent orange flag or cloth not less than 12 inches square, or
during darkness, in addition to the required taillamp, two red lights with a bulb rated not in excess of six candlepower plainly visible from a distance of at least 500 feet to the sides and rear.
|
sum1
|
11/17/11 02:08am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: ride
What is it about the ride that you don't like?
|
sum1
|
11/15/11 09:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Anyone pull a boat w/class A?
Been towing, launching, retrieving with MH for years. Rear hitch only.
|
sum1
|
11/15/11 09:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Inflate/Deflate To Correct "Pull"
It is, almost undoubtedly, a tire problem. One seems to have more rolling resistance than the other since the pull follows that tire when you swap them. As Barlow46 suggested, you might consider temporarily placing two matched and equally inflated tires up front to see if things even out.
|
sum1
|
11/15/11 09:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: How to hook up 3- 6 volt batteries?
As some have said, you can easily configure 3 6V batteries to make 12V. But as others have said, it's an impractical configuration.
|
sum1
|
11/13/11 01:18am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Clorox in Fresh Water Tank
Like Bobbo, I take a ride once the bleach is in the tank in order to splash it on all surfaces. I make it a vigorous, hard turning, stopping and starting kind of ride to splash all surfaces of the tank. The sloshing seems more effective with a half tank or less. Just make sure you are cold sober when you do it because you'll look like a drunken idiot.
|
sum1
|
11/13/11 12:42am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Rebuilding a cordless tool Ni-Cd battery?
Oldusedbear might know a thing or two about this. Send him a Private Message.
|
sum1
|
11/13/11 12:21am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: 1996 chevrolet P chassis vortec OBDII
Oldusedbear is, in fact, our AutoPark Guru. His new address is:
rhaag11@charter.net
The shoes should last a lifetime since they are a Park Brake only. There's a reason why your shoes are worn. It may just be the failure of a simple $40 pressure switch that caused the engagement and destruction of the brake shoes while under way.
Don't let anyone touch it before you communicate with Oldusedbear. He generously offers his wealth of knowledge free for the asking. We've heard stories of folks spending thousands of dollars on a $40 job.
BTW, he's recently developed an emergency caging device for the AutoPark. This self-contained attachment temporarily disengages the brake for towing or to get you home for permanent repair without smoking the shoes like yours. I think he calls it A.P.E Cager or somesuch.
Please keep us posted.
|
sum1
|
11/01/11 02:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Fuel Pump Replacement Cost, P30 1994 Itasca
After you've tested for power as More to See suggests, try crawling under there with a heavy rubber mallet. Have an assistant turn the key on and immediately give the lowpoint of the tank a good wallop or two. This isn't a permanent fix, but it may get the pump running to get you home. It worked for me once.
|
sum1
|
11/01/11 01:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Can you repair a crack in a black water tank?
If you need some "filler rod" for welding polyethylene, you may be able to use a chunk or strip of cutting board. They're made of HDPE.
|
sum1
|
10/31/11 01:26pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: new battery
Great deal on a great choice!
|
sum1
|
09/21/11 12:17am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Battery question
If they are house-only batteries, my preference is the deep cycle 6V. I have used (abused) Costco GC batteries with commendable results. Deep cycle batteries tolerate many more charge/discharge cycles than starting batteries or marine dual-purpose batteries.
Following up on 2oldman's comment, if you don't dry camp, a single 12V of any kind would do the job.
|
sum1
|
09/20/11 11:45pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Chevy with bad piston-- It's ALIVE!!!
Anyone know if the OBD (it's a '94--does it have OBD II?) would record if the knock sensors weren't operating?My '91 OBD-I gives knock sensor info.
|
sum1
|
09/20/11 11:36pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: "Stuff" on Battery Posts
Be sure to apply any coatings after the cleaned and shiny parts are connected and tightented.
Sometimes the seal between the lead terminal and the plastic case is breached by handling or other abuse. This can sometimes cause contribute to this problem.
|
sum1
|
09/09/11 02:43am |
Tech Issues
|
