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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Rear Dent Repair ?
THANKS for all the tips. Im not the greatest handyman so i'll prob just live with it . It will give my wife a good reason to bust my butt when somebody asks how did it get there .Sounds like a great opportunity to fabricate a wild story! When you've got the victim hooked, end it with , "Not really . . . My house bumped into it while I was in the truck".
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sum1
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02/01/12 01:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Using coach genset for emergency power
Unless you're immune from making mistakes even under stressful conditions, avoid fabricating a dead-man's cord (male at both ends) to power your house panel.
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sum1
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02/01/12 12:48am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Sticking Door Grrrrrr
I'd start with lubing the whole mechanism with something much hevier thatn WD-40. If that doesn't work, try some of the other fine suggestions above. Ronfisherman, I am also a big fan of Boeshield T-9. It's both a lubricant and protectant.
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sum1
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02/01/12 12:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Brilliant RVer invents a totally leak proof RV roof system!
All joking aside, I'll bet his temps are way lower with this sun shade.
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sum1
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01/18/12 01:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Should I put more than the recommended psi in my tires?
I often see the expression "recommended pressure". The manufacturers give tables, not recommendations. The charts state, instead, the "minimum pressure for a given weight". Re-stated, this means, "maximum weight for a given pressure" as Brett Wolfe said. I'm not comfortable working the edge on this one. I inflate well above the minimums for several reasons.
How much above minimum? By the way, what is the table other than a recommendation based on engineering and testing? The manufacturer can't force you to use their recommendations.
1) Higher pressures mean lower temps. Yes, at some point harshness can become a complaint, but let's face it, an underinflated tire is really cushy. What do we give up for comfort at the expense of safety though? Hotter tires are less safe, in general (we all know why). 2) Can you visualize what a front tire looks like in a turning panic stop under a top heavy, fully loaded MH?. If we're lucky (or amply inflated), it's not rolled over on its sidewall. Higher tire pressures provide better responsiveness. 3) The subject of traction has been mentioned in a linear context. Excellent point to consider, but contact pressure has not been discussed. I'm not smart enough to discuss this, but I have dealt with it casually in other arenas. As contact area decreases, contact pressure increases. Granted, a 20 PSI increase won't make a grand difference, but this may be beneficial in reduced traction scenarios. 4) Tire wear is a legitimate concern for those few who actually wear out MH tires. The effects of inflation on tire wear are indisputable. With tires as narrow as MH tires however, the effect is minimal. The concern about wearing out the middle of narrow tires is negligible when compared to the cost of 5) Fuel economy. Less rolling resistance means less fuel. Do your own math on this one.
Why do your own math when the engineers have done the testing and the actual math for you?
If you are suggesting 5 or 10lbs above the minimum recommendation your advice is in line with the manufacturer. If you are recommending higher than that, your are substituting your opinion for the testing done by the manufacturer.
Major point, why would you buy a brand of tire if you don't trust the engineer's recommendations? Consider that they are the one's who designed the tire in the first place. Lack confidence in their inflation recommendations suggests that one should also lack confidence in their designs. :WThanks for your comments. When I look at the tables, they plainly state, "Tire load limits" or "Maximum Weight" for various pressures. Given the maximum load at a certain pressure, it follows that I'm at the minimum pressure for that load. You're right, this is not my math. I actually do appreciate the engineering and testing that goes into these "modern marvels". They've determined limits and have tabulated them for us. The pressures that many call "recommended" are actually the lowest pressures that the manufacturers consider safe at various loads. I'm not comfortable teetering on the edge when there are absolutely no benefits. There are several benefits, on the other hand, to higher pressures as I've mentioned before.
BTW, this is from the Goodyear site: "Tire inflation pressure should always meet at least (my bold) the minimum guidelines for vehicle weight."
I think this subject is often debated because of previously ambiguous language, not only in the RV community, but in the industry. The tables and the language that describes their engineering is being clarified with time.
Thanks again for the discussion.
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sum1
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01/18/12 12:51am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Should I put more than the recommended psi in my tires?
I often see the expression "recommended pressure". The manufacturers give tables, not recommendations. The charts state, instead, the "minimum pressure for a given weight". Re-stated, this means, "maximum weight for a given pressure" as Brett Wolfe said. I'm not comfortable working the edge on this one. I inflate well above the minimums for several reasons.
1) Higher pressures mean lower temps. Yes, at some point harshness can become a complaint, but let's face it, an underinflated tire is really cushy. What do we give up for comfort at the expense of safety though? Hotter tires are less safe, in general (we all know why). 2) Can you visualize what a front tire looks like in a turning panic stop under a top heavy, fully loaded MH?. If we're lucky (or amply inflated), it's not rolled over on its sidewall. Higher tire pressures provide better responsiveness. 3) The subject of traction has been mentioned in a linear context. Excellent point to consider, but contact pressure has not been discussed. I'm not smart enough to discuss this, but I have dealt with it casually in other arenas. As contact area decreases, contact pressure increases. Granted, a 20 PSI increase won't make a grand difference, but this may be beneficial in reduced traction scenarios. 4) Tire wear is a legitimate concern for those few who actually wear out MH tires. The effects of inflation on tire wear are indisputable. With tires as narrow as MH tires however, the effect is minimal. The concern about wearing out the middle of narrow tires is negligible when compared to the cost of 5) Fuel economy. Less rolling resistance means less fuel. Do your own math on this one.
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sum1
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01/11/12 02:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
I switched to synthetic in my '92 Chevy MH with 454 and saw lower temps and better milage. I can't say much yet about engine life, but it's making sense to me.
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sum1
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01/11/12 12:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Texas to Palm Springs
The current economy has left the Palm Springs area a bit more accessible the last few years. Some SnowBirds are buying Snuggies instead.
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sum1
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01/11/12 12:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Definition of classes
As to the unasked question, "Which one is the best?", the answer is, "The One-Eye Gut".
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sum1
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01/11/12 12:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Leak in exhaust manifold
The best way I've found to locate exhaust leaks is to use a length of thin tubing (like an old brake line) with a 90° bend in one end (not kinked) and a couple of feet of hose on the other end. I place the hose near my ear while moving the bent end of the tube around each connection and near all potential crack sites. There is no mistaking the location of the leak(s).
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sum1
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01/11/12 12:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is five years to long to run front tires
Just like the "Risk Factors of Heart Disease", there are several things to consider with tires. Some will kill your tires now, some are less dangerous. Besides obvious road damage like running over large, pointy objects or sidewall-cutting curbs, the most common cause of tire failure is a combination of 1) sitting unused for long periods 2) on a hard surface 3) while underinflated. Visiting a motorhome after a six month storage period and finding it sitting on a flat is reason enough for me to replace the tire(s) immediately, even if in otherwise new condition. Remove or reduce any of these factors and the risk is reduced. A properly inflated tire driven daily or stored off the ground and well covered would be the opposite end of the spectrum and could be good for 10 years plus.
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sum1
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01/10/12 11:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RUNNING COOL
Could also be the gauge or sender, but it never hurts to replace an old thermostat to start with.
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sum1
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01/10/12 11:17pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: fuel tank filler hose?
I would not hesitate to use it. I don't have any technical info, but marine fill hoses I've used seemed to be of superior construction to any automotive ones I've used.
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sum1
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01/10/12 10:47pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Makeup air for the furnace
Like Jim Cindy, I understand your question to be a concern for replacement for air lost from within the "cabin" since some of that air is going into the "belly". Your thinking is sound. And yes, combustion air should be drawn separately from outside.
If the belly is open to the outside by way of cracks and other leaks, you may indeed create a negative pressure in the cabin. This typically will be partially equalized by sucking air from every little leak in the cabin. Windows, doors, fixtures, etc.
If the belly is truly sealed from the outside and to the cabin, it will not accept air and the negative pressure in the cabin will not be created. The belly may not be warmed, however. This sounds like what you have now.
If there is now a return air means from the belly, or if one can be created, all of the above is minimized. If you do create a return air circuit from the belly, I suggest placing it in or very near the furnace return.
Wanna take it a step further? Install an outside makeup air using a gravity or spring-loaded intake "valve" to the furnace return. This may actually create a positive pressure in the cabin and belly virtually eliminating drafts at windows, etc. Now we've really gone too far, but I have created such systems and the concept is commonplace in commercial buildings.
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sum1
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11/17/11 03:06am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Panel Tilting/Twirling Mechanisms--Need Ideas!
When judging a state science fair a few years back, I evaluated a project submitted by a high school student that used differential output from two small sensor panels mounted on the main panel to trigger a tracking servo motor, IIRC. Rather than a smooth, continuous motion, its design suggested incremental adjustments as the sun "travelled" across the sky, increasingly exposing the westerly angled sensor panel as the the easterly angled received less direct light. Sharp kid.
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sum1
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11/17/11 02:30am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Cargo Rack
Here's California's version:
LAMP OR FLAG ON PROJECTIONS:
Per CVC Section 24604, whenever the load upon any vehicle extends, or whenever any integral part of any vehicle projects, to the rear four feet or more beyond the rear of the vehicle, as measured from the taillamps, there shall be displayed at the extreme end of the load or projecting part of the vehicle:
a solid red or fluorescent orange flag or cloth not less than 12 inches square, or
during darkness, in addition to the required taillamp, two red lights with a bulb rated not in excess of six candlepower plainly visible from a distance of at least 500 feet to the sides and rear.
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sum1
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11/17/11 02:08am |
Tech Issues
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RE: ride
What is it about the ride that you don't like?
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sum1
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11/15/11 09:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Anyone pull a boat w/class A?
Been towing, launching, retrieving with MH for years. Rear hitch only.
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sum1
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11/15/11 09:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Inflate/Deflate To Correct "Pull"
It is, almost undoubtedly, a tire problem. One seems to have more rolling resistance than the other since the pull follows that tire when you swap them. As Barlow46 suggested, you might consider temporarily placing two matched and equally inflated tires up front to see if things even out.
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sum1
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11/15/11 09:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How to hook up 3- 6 volt batteries?
As some have said, you can easily configure 3 6V batteries to make 12V. But as others have said, it's an impractical configuration.
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sum1
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11/13/11 01:18am |
Tech Issues
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