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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: external fridge fan
search this dite for 'fridge fans'. I just did & found these pics in the first few hits. I'm sure there are more.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25282708.cfm
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steveh27
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05/24/12 11:54am |
Tech Issues
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RE: generator to run A/C
Lots of past threads on this subject. You may want to search the site.
Here's from a past post of mine:
Definitely check your AC's power draws. They are not all the same.
I had to replace my 11000 btu ac & since Dometic no longer makes it I went with their Hi efficiency 13500 AC. (I think if more people knew about this HE unit they would buy it.) Here's the power draw details using a Honda 2000.
I fired up my new Honda 2000 & plugged the Kill-a-watt meter into it. 126 volts. Then I plugged in my motorhomes 30 amp power cord with the proper adapter. I did not bother turning the breaker off to the converter based on my earlier analysis. The draw was 2.6 amps. Then I turned the AC fan on low. 4.5 amps. Then I turned the AC on and it went to 11+ amps and slowly climbed to 12.5 amps and had no problem running. In my motorhome the AC was nice & cold & the battery was being charged. All lights worked fine. I switched the eco on & had no problem. I switched the AC fan to low let it run for 1/2 hour. The draw then was 11.5 amps. Sweet. This high efficiency AC is worth every penny!
Air temp = 87 (hotter than before)
interior motorhome temp 95+
Gen only = 126.6 volts.
With my MH plugged in & converter left on = 126.2 volts 2.73 amps, 176 watts.
Turning the AC fan on to LO = 125.6 volts, 4.34 amps, 416 watts.
Adding the AC compressor
= 123.8 volts, 11.1 amps, 1210 watts. These slowly went up to 11.52 amps & 1250 watts.
Turned the fan on HI = 123.2 volts, 12.5 amps, 1381 watts. These numbers slowly drifted a bit higher.
Turned the fan back to LO & let it run 15 minutes. Nice & cool inside. 123.2 volts, 12.49 amps, 1400 watts.
My elevation is only 750 feet.
PS I did try the Supco on my original AC & had a RV dealer install it. It seemed to have little impact & the AC unit died later.
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steveh27
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05/24/12 11:40am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Sure miss my Motor Home Wife sold it?????
Redneck,
I go through Waynesburg twice every year to get to my friends property 15 miles west for spring turkey hunting & fall deer hunting. Always have a good time. Was there April 30-May 1.
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steveh27
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05/17/12 06:21am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Pennsylvania Turnpike with a Class B
My route from the East:
I do enter the Ohio TP(mile 242)from the PA turnpike.
Go 24 miles and take exit No.218 & head west on 76.
Go 60.7 miles & get gas at either the TA or Pilot at the intersection with 224. COntinue west on 224. There is a 224 construction closure about 19 miles further. Normally I stay on this 28.7 miles to 250. But 2 weeks ago I only went about 12 miles & turned north on 301 in Homerville. In 5 miles turn west on 162 in Spencer. Go 19 miles to 250. I hope they get the 224 construction done before my next trip, but my detour is not bad.
Turn northwest on 250. Take it about 12 miles and turn west on 20. This is a good road and parallels the TP. As I'm headed into Michigan I take 20 50 miles & turn north on 420 which will turn into 280 to take to 75 north. You could get back on the Ohio TP west here if you wish.
Look at a map & you can see this route. If you're heading further west you'll have to pick the best way.
This is a nice easy drive with some cheap gas. I get better mpg traveling at 55-60 vs 65-70 on the TP. The highest ranked Union officer killed during the Civil War, Gen McPherson, was from Clyde, OH, (on 20) & is buried in McPherson Cemetery on the east edge of town with a big statue. A nice short stop to see.
This route saves me at least $15 in tolls each way with my Xplorer.
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steveh27
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05/16/12 02:57pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Satellite Dish
I used to use a portable Dish 500 on a stand I built. But since I upgraded my tv to HD I bought the slick new Dish Tailgater. Awesome & automatic, no sat finder needed. It does seem to need a clearer view of the sky than the 500 though. That may be for the HD. Both are carryouts, not roof mounted.
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steveh27
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05/16/12 09:08am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 3 way frig
Mine was working fine on all 3 ways for 2 weeks then started shutting off using propane. I checked the burner & it was clear & clean. I would get a great blue flame then it would shut off. Took it to a rv shop. They said the chimney or whatever it's called starting right above the flame had debris up in it & needed cleaned out. They told I could do it next time by using some type of long handled flexible brush. I think they called it a bottle brush or something like that.
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steveh27
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05/15/12 10:40am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Dometic RM7401 3 way fridge question...
I had to have the chimney just above the burner cleaned out. It was partially blocked & caused problems. I was told I could use a long handled bottle brush or something like that. Thhis time I had an RV shop do it for $. I think that's your problem. You need to be able to check the burner as debris from the chimney can fall onto it restricting the flame.
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steveh27
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05/15/12 10:30am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Pennsylvania Turnpike with a Class B
I travel the western most section twice a year and always pay the same as a car. My Xplorer weighs about 6,900lbs.
The Ohio turnpike changed their classes a few years ago. I used to be in the auto class 1. Now they charge me a much higher rate due to my height. I found an alternate route (the same distance & takes only 15 minutes extra) so I can avoid most of the Ohio turnpike & save a lot of money.
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steveh27
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05/15/12 10:27am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: engine problems
outcome
The dealer's mechanic first tried to get codes & found he could not communicate with the PCM so he declared it dead & we ordered a rebuilt one even though he said that may not be the primary problem. After I talked to the mechanic (my comments not being filtered by the write up kid) he looked at the wiring near the CPS & found the wire from the pickup coil had frayed & was grounding out on the valve cover. He repaired that wire & several others & installed a protective plastic cover & inspected all wiring & it's been working since. They canceled the PCM order & all seems fine. Over 70 miles on it over 2 days now. Hard to think 1 little thin wire stopped my beast cold.
My trip is still on, just a couple days late!
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steveh27
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04/05/12 08:17am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: engine problems
Started it this morning for a test drive. There was a click under the dash & the brake/abs warning lights went off. I set the emrg brake & the light went on & when released went off. So that was good. Drove a mile & parked & went to a store. It started up fine & I drove to an intersection & it died & would not restart. Had to have a 4th tow this time to the dealer. Looks like my trip out west will be canceled. Bummer.
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steveh27
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03/31/12 10:23am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: engine problems
Booster your comments are my worries. I suspect more $ will go for parts which may be more symptomatic & not the cause before I'm convinced it is tracked down & fixed. Thanks for all the replies.
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steveh27
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03/30/12 05:18pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: engine problems
All fuses are good. I have spent many an hour on those 2 dodge sites. I did just register & posted on the forum. It's going to the dealer Monday, ouch.
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steveh27
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03/30/12 02:32pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: engine problems
I just brought the van home. The shop said under the hood where the wires they touched which shut it down yesterday are, they had taken the 3 wire harnesses apart & lubed them & now it starts every time. Since they couldn't get it not to start they could no longer check for a fault. I get in & it starts fine, but the dash brake & ABS light are on. The van doesn't have ABS. The only time the brake light has been on is when I've set the emergency brake. We set & released it several times. The mechanic tried a number of things & said the brake was released. He said this has an electrical problem, he's spent 3 hours on it & can't figure it out & to take it to the dealer. The CPS is working fine. I've set a Monday morning apointment at the dealer.
135,000 miles on the engine.
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steveh27
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03/30/12 11:38am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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engine problems
My 1997 Xplorer on a Dodge Ram Van 3500 chassis is having some recent problems. It began when I started to use it after not using it this winter. It started fine, I pulled up 15 feet. It died & just cranked & wouldn't start. Had it towed to a local shop. They found the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) had fused wires & replaced it. When I started it at their shop to leave I heard a strange clicking sound. The mechanic said it was coming from the senor but that it was probably just a plastic spacer & should be OK, but to bring it back in a few days if still happening. Drove it home & 2 days later it would not start again, just cranked. Towed it back to the shop. They said the CPS had shorted out. They had used a generic part. They tried another of the same & it made the same noise. They went to the Dodge dealer & bought the Mopar part. It was 5/1000" different size & seemed to work well.
I used the van 5-6 times, launching my boat & getting some other things checked. Came home with the boat, backed up into my drive, turned it off, opened the garage door & it wouldn't start again, just cranked. The shop had it towed in. They said the spark was intermitent, but the CPS was OK. They got it started but said they 'jiggled some wires' & it died. So they're trying to track down the cause. They are understaffed & the mechanic is working on 5 vehicles at a time so I'm a bit unhappy he can't focus on mine. I'm supposed to leave on a 3500 mile trip to WY & the Black Hills in a week & need reliability.
I've done some internet research & this seems to be a not uncommon problem with older Dodge vans. Seems they should be able to diagnosticly check each part & connection to find the fault.
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steveh27
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03/30/12 09:33am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Standed in Class B Update- Now with video, any ideas?
Today I just had the crankcase position sensor replaced on my Xplorer. It started then died & would not restart, even though it kept cranking. Do a google for it & read up. There were a number of good online directions how to diagnose the problem. I paid a repair shop and it cost $230. You probably could get it done for under $200 by shopping arounsd.
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steveh27
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03/14/12 03:37pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: I need a generator for my Class B.
RE the AC. Definitely check out the Dometic High Efficiency 13.5k btu unit, part # 459530. I had it put on my Xplorer 1.5 years ago & it is great & draws such low power my Honda 2000 runs it easy with power to spare. It is rated for a 15 amp suppply. I think it cost around $800 which included the shipping.
Here's my test w generator:
I fired up my Honda 2000 & plugged the Kill-a-watt meter into it. 126 volts. Then I plugged in my motorhomes 30 amp power cord with the proper adapter. I did not bother turning the breaker off to the converter based on my earlier analysis. The draw was 2.6 amps. Then I turned the AC fan on low. 4.5 amps. Then I turned the AC on and it went to 11+ amps and slowly climbed to 12.5 amps and had no problem running. In my motorhome the AC was nice & cold & the battery was being charged. All lights worked fine. I switched the eco on & had no problem. I switched the AC fan to low let it run for 1/2 hour. The draw then was 11.5 amps. Sweet. This high efficiency AC is worth every penny!
Air temp = 87 (hotter than before)
interior motorhome temp 95+
Gen only = 126.6 volts.
With my MH plugged in & converter left on = 126.2 volts 2.73 amps, 176 watts.
Turning the AC fan on to LO = 125.6 volts, 4.34 amps, 416 watts.
Adding the AC compressor
= 123.8 volts, 11.1 amps, 1210 watts. These slowly went up to 11.52 amps & 1250 watts.
Turned the fan on HI = 123.2 volts, 12.5 amps, 1381 watts. These numbers slowly drifted a bit higher.
Turned the fan back to LO & let it run 15 minutes. Nice & cool inside. 123.2 volts, 12.49 amps, 1400 watts.
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steveh27
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03/14/12 03:29pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Yamaha EF2400iSHC Gen Who running their AC from one?
Definitely check your AC's power draws. They are not all the same.
I had to replace my 11000 btu ac & since Dometic no longer makes it I went with their Hi efficiency 13500 AC. (I think if more people knew about this HE unit they would buy it.) Here's the power draw details using a Honda 2000.
I fired up my new Honda 2000 & plugged the Kill-a-watt meter into it. 126 volts. Then I plugged in my motorhomes 30 amp power cord with the proper adapter. I did not bother turning the breaker off to the converter based on my earlier analysis. The draw was 2.6 amps. Then I turned the AC fan on low. 4.5 amps. Then I turned the AC on and it went to 11+ amps and slowly climbed to 12.5 amps and had no problem running. In my motorhome the AC was nice & cold & the battery was being charged. All lights worked fine. I switched the eco on & had no problem. I switched the AC fan to low let it run for 1/2 hour. The draw then was 11.5 amps. Sweet. This high efficiency AC is worth every penny!
Air temp = 87 (hotter than before)
interior motorhome temp 95+
Gen only = 126.6 volts.
With my MH plugged in & converter left on = 126.2 volts 2.73 amps, 176 watts.
Turning the AC fan on to LO = 125.6 volts, 4.34 amps, 416 watts.
Adding the AC compressor
= 123.8 volts, 11.1 amps, 1210 watts. These slowly went up to 11.52 amps & 1250 watts.
Turned the fan on HI = 123.2 volts, 12.5 amps, 1381 watts. These numbers slowly drifted a bit higher.
Turned the fan back to LO & let it run 15 minutes. Nice & cool inside. 123.2 volts, 12.49 amps, 1400 watts.
My elevation is only 750 feet.
PS I did try the Supco on my original AC & had a RV dealer install it. It seemed to have little impact & the AC unit died later.
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steveh27
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03/09/12 10:11am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Front End Problems
Last year I replaced all 4 ball joints on my 1997 Xplorer Dodge 3500 and it cost $600 or so at a spring shop. The dealer would have been closer to $1500. That did make a big difference in the steering.
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steveh27
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03/02/12 08:26am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Dish 311 to 211k Receiver - any problems ?
I just reviewed my receipt. I paid $309 for the tailgater & was able to swap my dish receiver to a 211k without any charge. I dealt with my local installer, not the national dish people, although the national dish sent me a box to return my old receiver.
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steveh27
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02/25/12 06:57am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Dish 311 to 211k Receiver - any problems ?
I bought the tailgater last fall for around $350. I think the Winegard is much more and wonder why you would get it if you're only using 1 tv.
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steveh27
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02/24/12 11:56am |
Technology Corner
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