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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: two generators or one?
I would look to a single 2000 and a Victron Multiplus inverter to pick up the surge or other short term loads as needed.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 10:03pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: AC/DC Frame Grounding. Need help.
NO. Just plug into the honda or any other portable generator. Do not tie the generator neutral and ground. Just start it, plug in, enjoy. No wiring changes or additions.
On board built in is different but that is not what you have.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 09:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Starting the Solar Power System
Page 27 of the manual:
A disconnect is required for the battery and solar circuits to provide a means for removing power
from the TriStar MPPT. Double pole switches or breakers are convenient for disconnecting both
solar and battery conductors simultaneously.
Switch or breaker can be used. No fuse required on panels. 75 amp minimum fuse listed for battery connection.
The panel fuse rating is to be followed if three or more in parallel.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 06:55pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery: Checking specific gravity
Not 1/8" from the very top :E
Water should be 1/8" below the split ring that extends down into the cell. Just touching is absolute max and may increase corrosion or even pushing water out.
Use tinned copper lugs and seal with heat shrink to reduce corrosion.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 04:12pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: solar 140 panels for $189 where are they?
If you are going connector to connector it's best not to have an extra 3' to coil up. I think the wire is mostly #10 so you may want a combiner box to run larger wire down to the controller... like #8 or maybe #6. Controller accepts up to #6 wire.
So assuming combiner box you just need some short MC4 cables and you would cut in half and then cut to length as they hit the box. So it depends on box placement. If panels are at each end it is best to have semi equal length.
If you are going to just use the MC4 parallel connectors (no combiner box) then you would probably parallel right at the panels and have a long cable to pull down. Again cut in half and cut to length at the controller. This puts 20 amps through #10 wire which is fine but you may have some voltage drop. But as long as you have 16+ volts hitting the PWM controller you should be fine.
For the existing wire.... do you know where the other end is? Probably goes about straight up. Otherwise I think you could use a signal generator and locator to find where it hits the roof. Check the electrical tools section at Home Depot etc. (or if you have an electrician friend he may have one) If you can keep the wire run way shorter it could be worth while.
Might even be best to mount the panels and then map the wire and go back for what you need.
Be sure to call first so they have the panels and controller on site.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 03:34pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: solar 140 panels for $189 where are they?
Don't forget the MC4 cables as needed to reach a combiner box or direct to controller. Or use the MC4 branch connectors to combine power in parallel. The two hole strain relief also work excellent to keep water out of the combiner box or out of the RV.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 02:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: AC/DC Frame Grounding. Need help.
My trailer came OEM with 120v ground and battery negative attched to the frame.
Fuses and switches on the 12v positive.
No bond (connection) between 120v neutral and ground in the trailer.
I would only have it this way. RVIA standards.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 02:03pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 30 amp and 50 amp electric question
Probably need nothing as most 50a sites have 50, 30 & 20a connectors.
Call and ask.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 01:40pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: solar 140 panels for $189 where are they?
This PWM controller is rated 25 amps should serve you well. Panels are about 12 amps each.
http://www.solarblvd.com/Morningstar-Sunsaver-Duo-With-Remote-Meter $150 includes remote :)
Or are you thinking MPPT? You will extract a bit more power but the price goes to $325 - $450
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smkettner
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05/23/12 01:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: does solar play well with a converter?
I would think voltage is the same.... Just a matter of amps.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 09:17am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery
How warm is the thermostat overnight? Put it down closer to 60-65 (or less) (or off)
The 7155 is a slow charging converter. What generator do you have?
You should make it with one group 27 but you need a better charging system.
Consider getting a 20 to 40 amp portable charger and if there is space for a second battery get it.
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smkettner
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05/23/12 09:15am |
Tech Issues
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RE: solar 140 panels for $189 where are they?
I would buy it in a heartbeat if it was what I needed.
http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Panels-&-Systems-Individual-Solar-Panels-175-Watt-+-(11)/c1_25_203/p2403/Evergreen-Solar-210-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panel/product_info.html
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smkettner
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05/22/12 11:10pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: "CFL versus LED" An Interesting Link
I will keep my incandescents thankyou. Besides they are very efficent heat producers when its cool.
Heat pump is 2 to 3 times as efficient.
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smkettner
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05/22/12 10:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: loose wire
Put a test light across it to the positive battery cable. If it lights something is on, turn stuff off until you find it. If the light is off then turn stuff on until the light comes on. (start with pulling the ebrake tab out)
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smkettner
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05/22/12 09:55pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Starting the Solar Power System
Based on my initial design, there are only three things that I don't not want to be able to operate: Air Conditioner 1, Future Air Conditioner 2 (I don't plan on this, but if I sell...), and the water heater. Everything else will be up to us to manage via common sense.
I am trying to keep things as simple as possible. Everything I have read so far has been about only energizing certain circuits. I am thinking that I am looking to only de-energize certain circuits. So instead of ensuring that the three energy hogs are engergized via the switch, it may make more sense to de-energize those items.
Or am I just making it more complex...
Air and water? I would just flip the breakers before you head out. Also the converter and fridge to propane.
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smkettner
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05/22/12 09:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: More Solar for "Us"
Yes the Wizard is driving the BS2000 with 505 watts.
Controller clamps the amps at about 25.
Only ideal conditions will have the full wattage available.
Some power is not put into the battery (lost) when amps are limited.
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smkettner
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05/22/12 09:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ugly Encounter at Campground
As long as they say hi, drop no trash, and no package from the pet it does not really bother me that much. Otherwise I just feel sorry for them.
Spitting on the vehicle was well worth the police coming out. Condition of the vehicle would not matter.
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smkettner
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05/22/12 08:28pm |
RV Lifestyle
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RE: external fridge fan
I was hoping one of you fine gentleman would have "the ideal temperature". I guess I'll have to wait until the summer arrives (if ever) and dial up a useful temperature.
Fans are at the top of the chimny... Where is the thermostat?
I would go a little low like 80-85 if at the bottom or closer to 110+ if thermostat is near the top.
You might need the thermostat low if you want it to stay off at night.
Since you can hear them give it a go and see what works.
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smkettner
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05/22/12 08:17pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: inverter / 12 v power help
Yes the RV connector is smaller. And the rating is less at just 8 amps.
I was able to file mine down a bit to make it fit.
You may still have voltage issues as the wire is generally a bit long and thin to the 12v connector.
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smkettner
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05/22/12 07:46pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: running a window a/c while I am going down the road
What is the alternator rated. Hopefully you have two of them. I think you will need 60 to 100 amps out of the alternator to make it work.
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smkettner
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05/22/12 06:04pm |
Tech Issues
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