| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Beware GMAC Insurance

Just kind of a general observation: my agent told me that insurance companies in general are raising rates due to getting hit by so many claims in the last couple of years.
For example, homeowner's insurance, after so many Hurricanes and Tornado's, etc, is especially hard hit. Everyone pays when there is a trend toward big payouts. That's what insurance is: spreading the risk over a large number of payers.
|
slarsen
|
05/25/12 03:23pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Why steal a truck tailgate?

I've read that my tailgate: 2012 F250 with step and camera, is a 'hot' item, potentially pushing $5K to get replaced and quite a hassle as they need to be purchased, assembled and painted.
If you Google tailgate lock, you'll see lots of options. I bought one that acts kinda like the previously mentioned hose clamp, but with a special 'key' needed to remove it, like a wheel lock key, and some other features to make it difficult to remove. It gives me peace of mind. They also say that the tailgate lock from the factory is very easy to knock out by a determined thief.
|
slarsen
|
05/25/12 10:01am |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Personal Question $$$

With few exceptions, I believe whatever people post here. Why go to the trouble to post something that isn't true? Doesn't make sense to me.
My son got 'introduced' to Dave Ramsey a few years ago, and I am so proud of him. He's paid off everything but the mortgage and is barely over 30. He's well ahead of where I was at that age.
I said earlier that I have no debt. Absolutely true. I run up big credit card bills every month, but pay them off every month. I get 'points' that I use for restaurant gift cards. I've a stack of them. A while back, VISA offered $300 in 'points' for using their card. I applied for and got two of them. Ha! That's why I'm so far behind on using gift cards up. What a nice freebee!
But the one place I don't use credit cards is . . . restaurants. I use cash (or those gift cards!). Don't like to see my credit card disappear from view for several minutes with someone I don't know.
|
slarsen
|
05/22/12 07:31pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Did I choose the wrong gear ratio 3.73?

I don't know about all the math others do, but I can tell you that my 2102 F250 with 3.73 pulls my 11,000 pound gross trailer just fine.
Went over the 'mountains' from Indiana to the Outer Banks a couple months ago, posted a fairly comprehensive report on it here when I got back. No problems, no regrets.
Added: GAS F250
|
slarsen
|
05/20/12 05:56pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
 |
RE: Center Point eliminate empty fridge?

I have a rear kitchen. Some of those Interstate bumps are amazing. We use a bungie cord to keep one cupboard closed, keeps things off the floor. I've had the shelves inside the refrigerator door come completely loose and dump everything inside the refrig. But most trips, little or nothing happens, including long trips to the East Coast or down to Florida. So it's a bit random.
I think the shocks idea is a good one. Haven't tried it myself, but if the nonsense happened more often, that would be what I would try as a fairly low cost, high probability fix.
|
slarsen
|
05/20/12 05:49pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
 |
RE: Now the price on the F 250 gasser?

When I bought my 2012 F250, I traded in a 2006 F250. I went to various dealerships, and the price difference ranged by up to $6K. But I talked to dealerships in three different states, as I think back.
Make it clear you have all the time in the world and you won't buy until the deal is right. And I have found that offering a price difference instead of waiting for their offer is more effective. And lastly: most of my deals have been made as I am going out the door, so they know I am seriously turning down their 'final offer.'
|
slarsen
|
05/19/12 08:57am |
Tow Vehicles
|
 |
RE: Personal Question $$$

5th wheel worth maybe $15-18K, have zero debt.
|
slarsen
|
05/18/12 03:24pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Buying a 2011 or 2012 ford F250 Gasser - advice?

I was where you are, last October/November when I bought a 2012 F250 gasser. I added airbags to keep it all level. My trailer is a little under 10K pounds empty, so I figure 11K roughly, which is probably a little high. It works out great for me. Didn't want a diesel, and probably would have turned it down if it was offered to me for the identical price.
But you are 1K heavier than me. The F350 might be a good recommendation, especially if you want to travel extensively and/or go up and down mountains. And the 4.10 axle might also be a good idea, although the 3.73 works just fine for me.
I think you are right on the "bubble" but for sure, you don't need a diesel. I use my truck for day to day running to Walmart or whatever, and that isn't good for a diesel. Plus the extra cost, difficulty in fueling, noise, smell, etc: just didn't want a diesel. I traded in my old 2006 diesel and was glad to see it go.
|
slarsen
|
05/17/12 04:48pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
 |
RE: Tank sensors?

We shower in the trailer; never use campground facilities. So here is what I've noted: the grey tank fills up lonnnggggg before the black tank. And since when I drain one, I drain the other (black tank first, always) it doesn't seem to be a problem. My black tank sensors are useless, but as someone else indicated, the grey tank sensors are fair to middling.
|
slarsen
|
05/11/12 08:35am |
Beginning RVing
|
 |
RE: Dehumidifiers

I researched this two years ago: Frigidaire sounded the best. I bought one, and found it to be very quiet, which was one of my primary concerns. I got it at one of the local lumber yards, I think Lowe's.
A dehumidifier is a very good idea.
|
slarsen
|
05/10/12 04:36pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: F-250 and trailer brake problem

I had problems with my 2006 F250 too; A/C wouldn't work, turn off the truck, restart and all would be OK for a few weeks. Didn't know it was a problem for others.
|
slarsen
|
05/10/12 07:27am |
Tow Vehicles
|
 |
RE: Slow market or what?

Earlier mention of a home equity loan reminded me of my experiences.
Back about six years ago I got a $25K home equity loan "line of credit" with little more than a signature.
About a year ago I changed banks, wanted the same $25K equity "line of credit" - I have no debt, and more than the $25K at the same bank in CD's and IRA's. They did a full-blown mortgage app, pictures of my home and an appraisal, stacks of paper to be signed. All at no cost to me, but SOMEBODY ran into some serious costs. I think the pendulum has swung too far toward caution in banking.
|
slarsen
|
05/10/12 07:21am |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Pop Rivet vs Screw..Which is stronger in aluminum?

So I googled Monel rivets. What do you know, that's what I used on my aircraft.
|
slarsen
|
05/09/12 08:23pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: What I've learned on RV.net

I agree with korbe. Sort through the responses and use the advice that make sense to you. The world is full of gray; there are few black & white answers, anyway.
|
slarsen
|
05/09/12 08:08pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
 |
RE: Pop Rivet vs Screw..Which is stronger in aluminum?

Well, just to add a little conflict . . . I'd vote for pop rivets.
I don't know what monel means, either. But I've used lots of pop rivets, in fact, I built a two-seater aircraft once, and used pop rivets extensively. So literally, my life and the life of passengers were hanging off pop rivets. Several pop rivets, I might add. But pop rivets penetrate the hole, then expand 360 degrees behind the hole versus what I consider a fairly small area of contact with screws. Pull them out, and you'll do extensive damage. In fact, drilling them out is the only practical way to remove a pop rivet. So that would be my choice. But I'd probably use some form of stainless steel pop rivets and in any event, almost certainly not aluminum ones.
Added: I don't know for a fact, because they were provided in a kit aircraft, but after six years or so, there were no signs of rust on the exposed rivets. I know they weren't aluminum, I believe stainless steel. I know when I pulled them, the pin broke with sound as loud as a gunshot. I used ear protection.
|
slarsen
|
05/09/12 07:49pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Level fifth wheel hitch

Eventually, I did both: hitch up a notch, pinbox down a row of holes. I say eventually because twice, I smacked the bed rails when maneuvering in tight spaces. No real damage, but some crimping of a trim piece on the bottom of the trailer on both sides.
BTW, and I guess off-topic, I traded off my 2006 Ford F250 on a 2012 F250, and the clearance improved by maybe two inches. This surprised me, because the 2006 was two wheel drive and the 2012 is 4 X 4, so I feared the trailer would be too low and I'd wish I could reduce the trailer/truck clearance to compensate, but no need. And the height of the truck vs the trailer worked out perfect, the trailer is level front-to-back within an inch.
|
slarsen
|
05/08/12 06:24pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
 |
RE: GPS for RVs

They have a 'setting' in setup that allows you to enter in the vital stats: width, height, etc. So you could go in and 'fudge' the settings when using a car, then reset the trailer or MH settings.
|
slarsen
|
05/07/12 07:13am |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Waste odor while driving

Well, there it is! Thanks.
|
slarsen
|
05/06/12 08:31pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Waste odor while driving

So, what's the name or description for this vacuum break vent? I can't locate it with any random descriptions I can think of . . .
|
slarsen
|
05/06/12 07:41pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: 50 amp 90 degree plug

I'm told that the reason for the rear mount plug is that sooner or later, you'll start to tow without disconnecting power. That lets the power cord pop free without ripping up the trailer. I question whether a 90 degree plug would release before tearing out the female plug in the trailer.
I agree with someone earlier that suggested you try it out first before worrying about spending $100 on a 'fix' that you may not need. I've been using my 50 amp straight plug for 2+ years, maybe 50 nights, with no wish for a 90 degree plug. I DID get a short cord that attaches directly, with only about two feet of cord, which ends with a 30 amp plug that I use when only 30 amp is available, as I have a 25 ft. 30 amp cord. 50 amp cords are a pain, especially if it is cold when you are breaking camp. You will probably want some kind of adapter to go from 50 amp to 30 amp, as not all campgrounds offer 50 amp.
|
slarsen
|
05/03/12 09:04pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|