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Forum
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RE: Campground observation (Times have changed)
Seems to me that camping is enjoying quite a 'boom' in the last handful of years.
Perhaps is becuase people would rather spend $5k per year on a trailer and a membership and camp all year round than spend $5k for one week at a vacation resort.
Also might be becuase you can get a 30' travel trailer that you can pull with a 1/2 ton pickup for less than $20k now. And you can finance that $20k as a second home over 12 years. A travel trailer with all the modern conveniences of home for only $150 per month was unheard of 10 years ago.
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selectsplat
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05/10/12 10:53am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: 2010 Tahoe + Passport 2650BH = good match?
I towed the Trailrunner 27qbfs with a '03 5.3 Tahoe for 2 years. My trailer was 6200 lbs dry, so it's a little heavier than your, but is only 750lbs of tongue weight. I used a WDS and a sway bar.
It handled it ok. I had two complaints about the set up. First, I felt like the 5.3 underperformed on inclines. However, I understand that the new 6 speed transmissions like is in yours helps with that quite a bit. Second, even with the sway bar, I got a little mroe 'tail wagging the dog' than I would have liked. It's wasn't awful or anything, just enough to be irritating.
Personally, I think you'll be fine. you're not going to be in love with how it tows, but you'll probably be ok with it.
BTW, I ended up trading my 03 Tahoe in for an 08 Tundra with a 5.7, and it's a pretty big difference. While I could live with how the Tahoe towed it, with the Tundra, I don't even know it's back there.
Now, I don't even know the trailer is back there.
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selectsplat
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05/09/12 09:57am |
Towing
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RE: What do you park on at home?
4 cheap plastic cutting boards.
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selectsplat
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05/09/12 09:36am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Over the air TV revisited
Also, I'm a little confused by what I can use to further amplify my over the air antenna.
Here's the situation.
- I have a batwing plus the wingman like addition.
- I have a booster in the wall.
- I have 2 TVs I'd like to get stations on. One in the living room, one on the other side of the same wall in the master bedroom.
What I would like to do is...
- split my boosted signal, so I can get stations on both tvs.
- Add a second booster to the first, if possible.
Looking around, I found a few different types of boosters/amplifiers that have one input and multiple outputs. This would be idea. Especially if I can take the output for the first booster, and route that into the second booster, then out from that to each of the TVs.
However, I'm confused about what type of booster I can use. Some of the ones I would have thought I could use have reviews on them that say they were used for things like DTV, or cable modems. For example, can I use this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Amplifier-Splitter-Booster-Passive/dp/B001BMKNZI/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1336139155&sr=8-14
Your help is appreciated.
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selectsplat
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05/04/12 08:02am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Over the air TV revisited
Quick question. Can you run 2 boosters in series?
For example, by trailer has the built into the wall booster. Can I run the radio shack bi-directional booster in series with that ?
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selectsplat
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05/04/12 07:25am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Over the air TV revisited
Here's a weird question.
I have a regular batwing, with a wingman-like add on plus a amplifier that came with the TV. The TV has a digital tuner.
I also have a high end digital to analog converter left over from before I got a new lcd tv.
At my favorite campground, I found that if I point the antenae at the nearest tower using an app on my phone, and I scan for channels from scratch (not using add channels) I can get two or three channels.
However, if I use the analog to digital converter, without moving the antenae, using the same amplifier, and scan for channels from scratch (not using the add channels function), I can get 8-10.
This makes me think that the digital tuner might make some difference, and that perhaps some TVs come with a crappy built in tuner, and might not get as many channels as other tuners.
Is there another explaination?
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selectsplat
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05/02/12 11:47am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Campgrounds in and near Norfolk, VA
Gloucester point, now known as Jellystone Gloucester is only about 20-30 minutes from Hampton, Va. and 30-40 minutes from Norfolk. That's much closer than Holiday Trav L in Va Beach, which is about 50-60 minutes from Hampton, and about 35-45 minutes from Norfolk.
Chippokes state park is about the same distance as Gloucester point, and is a well recommended state park, tho I've never been there. It may take longer to get there because it's on the other side of the James river.
First Landing State park is also closer to Norfolk (~25 mintues) and Hampton (~35 mintues) than Holiday Trav L. It's at the north end of the beach, but is more rustic.
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selectsplat
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04/17/12 03:11pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Colonial Williamsburg
The 1000Trails (it's actually an Outdoor World) campground is very nice. They have an outdoor and an indoor pool. The indoor pool is open all year. They have a nice clubhouse, and lots of amenities. Very clean bath houses. Nice, level lots with lots of pull throughs.
Again, not walking distance, but it pretty close.
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selectsplat
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04/12/12 07:33am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: So what will happen..?
I hate to tell you sky, but you're fine. The only thing I would suggest if you are worried is to put more of your gear in your TT and less in the pickup bed. If you can reduce that by 100lbs or so, then I think you're well into the clear.
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selectsplat
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04/12/12 07:28am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Wt Distr Hitch is not recommended for our vehicle
Dry weight trailer 2,300.
We don't have propane or battery. There is a wet bath, fresh water tank holds 20.
Not dry weight.
Dry HITCH weight. That's the amount of weight that will be placed directly on the back axle of your SUV. There is a weight restriction, and since you can't use a WDS, you are likely to approach it quickly.
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selectsplat
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04/11/12 02:51pm |
Towing
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RE: Wt Distr Hitch is not recommended for our vehicle
What is the dry hitch weight your your camper? Don't forget that this is just the *dry* weight, and usually doesn't include the battery, or the propane in your propane tank(s).
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selectsplat
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04/11/12 12:13pm |
Towing
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RE: Campgrounds with waterpark - within 6 hours of Philadelphia
Frontier town is ok, but I dont' liek that their water park is open to the public. Makes for a very crowded adventure.
I like Castaways a little better, and it's right down the street.
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selectsplat
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04/11/12 06:56am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Friends wanna go along....
When we first bought our 27' that sleeps 8, we almost always had another family staying with our family of 3.
After about a year of that, we decided we didn't enjoy it as much when we had other people staying in our trailer with us. It's just not as comfortable.
Now we also bring a 6 man tent, and can offer that. Luckily, we've talked alot of our friends into also buying trailers.
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selectsplat
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04/10/12 11:08am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Campgrounds with waterpark - within 6 hours of Philadelphia
Yogi in Gloucester.
Greys Point (near Bethpage)
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selectsplat
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04/06/12 10:15am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Friction sway bars
My threads are out the backside on the top bolt when it's tight ( hand tighten only )I make my adjustments with the bottom bolt, the top with the lever is just for taking the bar off. It's recomended to use two bars if the trailer is over 25 ft.
Exactly. Loosen bottom bolt, Tighten on off till it bottoms out. Tighten bottom bolt finger tight. Loosen top bolt one turn. Now tighten bottom bolt slightly. When you now tighten on/off bar it will load the brake. If more braking effort is needed tighten bottom bolt some. Having the on/off lever bottom out allows you to set the brake the exact same each time.
In general, I think that's a good suggestion. Unless, you have a sway bar like me or the original poster where it's very difficult to 'bottom out' the top bolt, even if you completely remove the bottom one. In that case, I'd say to ignore the instructions to 'bottom out' the top bolt, and tighten it snugly.
are like me and the original poster, and even if you entirely remove the bottom bolt, and there's no way the top bolt can put thread through the nut unless you put a ton of weight on it.
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selectsplat
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04/06/12 10:13am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Friction sway bars
All this "Bottoming Out" info has me short circuited. My Husky friction bar bottom screw threads stick out 1/4 inch on the back side of bar. This was out of the box and dealer tech said to leave it alone and adjusted the top handle as to where the threads are flush w/the bar when turned to the "On" position. It seems to pull ok under these settings. Any comments, pro or con?
That sounds about like it should be.
For the sway bar I have, and others might have, you'd need to put some serious weight, and maybe even a cheater bar on that top level to get the threads to come put the backside and be 'bottomed out'.
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selectsplat
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04/05/12 11:42am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Friction sway bars
Right. The first thing I did was follow the directions and turned that handle all the way down until the bolt bottomed out, i.e. the bolt came out the back of the nut. The last few turns definitely took all 200lbs of my weight behind it to get it there, but by god, I know how to follow directions!
Of course, after doing so, the bar would not slide under any amount of pressure, and I guess it had bent the plate a bit becuase no one could get it untightened again.
In all fairness, I've been called 'too literal' my entire life.
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selectsplat
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04/05/12 11:01am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Friction sway bars
Here's the one I have. Slightly different but not much. I guess it does have the v shape on the plate.
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/assets/images/Camco/48380.jpg
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selectsplat
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04/05/12 10:54am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Friction sway bars
On mine, ypu could take the bottom bolt completely out and still if you bottom out the top the bar in between would not be able to move between the brake pads. In fact with the bottom bolt out ypud almost need a cheater bar to bottom out the top lever.Does the pressure plate on the side of your bar look like the plate in the image shown below?
In particular, does your plate have the V-shape ridge which bears against the side of the sway bar, holding the top and bottom of the plate away from the side of the sway bar?
Is it possible for you to post a photo of your sway control taken from the same angle as the photo below?
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/2833/img2012040200019custom.jpg
My trailer and swaybar is actually at my favorite campground right now. Unfortunately, that's 1.5 hours away from where I am now. I'll be back to it in 2 weeks.
Looking at this a little closer, tho, I'm not sure mine is the same manufacturer, becuase I don't remember the 'v' shape. I know those instructions on the side are word for word identical, but actually, my handle is a little different as well. It has a back plastic covering over the handle.
Let me see if I can find a pic.
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selectsplat
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04/05/12 10:49am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Friction sway bars
On mine, ypu could take the bottom bolt completely out and still if you bottom out the top the bar in between would not be able to move between the brake pads. In fact with the bottom bolt out ypud almost need a cheater bar to bottom out the top lever.Does the pressure plate on the side of your bar look like the plate in the image shown below?
In particular, does your plate have the V-shape ridge which bears against the side of the sway bar, holding the top and bottom of the plate away from the side of the sway bar?
Is it possible for you to post a photo of your sway control taken from the same angle as the photo below?
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/2833/img2012040200019custom.jpg
My trailer and swaybar is actually at my favorite campground right now. Unfortunately, that's 1.5 hours away from where I am now. I'll be back to it in 2 weeks.
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selectsplat
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04/05/12 10:46am |
Travel Trailers
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