| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: RV Cabinetry
Try Rocklers for a small stapler, they have both elect staplers and pneumatic and some powder ones. If you post a picture I might be able to give you some more ideas. I was a sawdust maker for a long time and know lots of sneaky ways to repair cabinets.
|
sbishop
|
02/10/12 12:47am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Broken Leg
Goodnes man, I thought of all the hard work I'll be looking at after next Thursday when I get my second TKR. I started of at about 30 mins a day and in six weeks was up to a couple of hours but you're in for a long recovery. I concur in that a change of scenery would be benificial and PT, PT, PT. Hope you're back on that leg soon and out traveling and remodeling.
|
sbishop
|
02/10/12 12:42am |
RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
|
|
RE: LED Light in Oven Vent Hood
Funny thing, I was just about to order a couple of the flat panels, one to try in the hood. I put an outdoor lighting bulb with the 921 base in the hood and that made a big differnce but it's really hot so I want to try the LEDs too.
|
sbishop
|
02/10/12 12:35am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: SPAMalicious Recipes Wanted!
I introduced my DW to Spam awhile ago but it wasn't until the DGKs were around that she really got to liking it, now we keep a couple of cans in the pantry for when the DGKs spend the night and for camping. We usually just fry or grill it but my favorite way requires an oven so I can't help you much. We like to get take away from L&L Hawaiian BBQ (the Mc Donalds of Hawaii) and often order Spam Saimin. I might add that one of the most popular destinations for RVers is as nuts about Spam as Hawaii. Hawaii and Alaska have the highest per capita consumtion of Spam of all 50 states.
I don't think there are any L&Ls in any states besides Hawaii and California so if your'e looking for one come visit.
I have been enjoying Spam since WWII when meat was expensive and we could get Spam often and without using our ration cards. When I was stationed in Pearl Harbor we ate very well but the cooks always had five pound cans on hand, it was good for two things, one, was when we were a little tired of rib steaks, it was either hot dogs and beans or Spam in a variety of ways and two, it was a good barter resource when we needed something from the yardbirds.
I will say that I have seen more varieties of Spam in Hawaii than any place in the world including Alaska. Just some usless information.
PS: You could try my Mom's best way even without a oven, slice the Spam and spoon some orange marmalade on top and cook it in your DO, My DW doesn't like orange marmalade so I don't make. Try one of the British marmlades with scotch or brandy or any other liquor in it, YUM!
|
sbishop
|
02/10/12 12:28am |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
|
|
RE: Replacing Radiator, 1990 Southwind P37
We have a Bounder 27D which is basically the same vehical and when my radiator started leaking I had it pulled and recored. I don't have the space here in the hills surrounding Los Angeles to do it myself. It cost me a little over $2200 dollars and took forever but it was the rainy season and I didn't care. I do not remember how many rows of tubes it has but the shop used a core that had one more row. I think it was a 3 row and new was 4 row. I have a Chevy p32 with an aspirated 454 engine. It has been a great deal, the engine is really running cool even in the Rockies and up over the Sierra. We had the shop put in all new hoses , clamps and water pump (OEM not after market) one of the expensicw things was recharging the AC. The shop didn't have the freon collected as the law requires so I had to pay full boat for the recharge. I would look into a new OEM style coolant resevoir, they do get hard and it's a good preventive move.
Good luck and cool running.
|
sbishop
|
02/09/12 06:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: RMP3 failure
I'll add my $0.37 worth(adjusted for inflation and retirement income), I did our MoHo last September and after reading the posts here decided to wash first with car wash soap, thenscrub with BKF, them wash with plain water then with Car wash soap and then with plain water. I used terrycloth bar towels for all the washing. I applied the RMP3 with a series of blue microfiber towels on everything but the windows and glass headlights. Thought I was careful about runs, I wasn't but it's okay I can live with them. Our rig has been outside exposed to the elements for 22 years and was sunburned and the decals cracked and faded. The filon finish is good, not original but I didn't expect it would be. The fiberglass radius of the rear cap had fibers exposed and they are now covered, the radius of the front cap is hard to get to and I didn't get as good a finish as on other parts. Due to the sun damage it takes a lot more RMP3 to make our surfaces shine.
We did a ten week, thirteen thousand mile trip across the country and back, lots of bugs in the plains states, snow in PA and rain all over Canada and the east and a mechanic who cleaned the front end with something very strong and greatly damaged the shine. Washing the rig with carwash soap and applying a few coats to the area the mechanic clened has restored the luster and the front end looks even better than when we left.
Other than preparation work, the big thing is try to apply the RMP3 when the surface is cool and out of the sun. I feel that it dries slower and gives a better shine but it still looked good where I did do it in the sun.
Lots of elbow grease when using the BKF, easy applying the RPM amd so far a durable finish.
|
sbishop
|
02/09/12 12:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Screen Door Release
Looks like it is intended to keep from opening the slider on the screen door when the entry door is open. Seems that opening the slider couldn't let in as many creepy crawlies as opening the whole screen door. Can't see what benifit it really has. Our rig is a little older and just has a roller catch to hold the screen door closed when entry door is open, in our case it is unnecessary to push on a lever, just push on the frame of the door and it opens. Never have to open the slider to open the screen door. Sometimes older and simpler is good.
|
sbishop
|
02/09/12 11:10am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
|
 |
RE: Window tinting suggestions
benjamin, I think you have a trailer so the tint is up to you, I can't find one state that regulates that, on MoHos it is different from state to state. In CA you can black out all the windows excep the drivers and passengers side windows, those cannot be any darker than they came from the factory. I believe CA allows vehicles from other states though.
|
sbishop
|
02/08/12 07:38am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Following Forum advice -Do you do it?
There is a lot of experience and expertize out here and you just need to ask the right questions. Chances are that others have had the same issue. Someone always has a better mouse trap, and its great to see all the options and pick the one that best meets your needs. When you use this source, you usally get some answers that make more sense then others and you want to say "Why didn't I think of that". Its great
X2
|
sbishop
|
02/08/12 07:32am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: The one specific suggestion you would make to RV makers...
One of the most common complaints I read about on the forums is RIDE/HANDLING. Get it correct from the factory or add it on at the plant.
|
sbishop
|
02/08/12 07:21am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: LEVELING
I agree with leveling by feel and sight as you drive into a space, I have driven in and out of a space or two and decided it was just too far off to level. I use the three level plank method and very seldom have a problem. I use a little "T" level set in a certain place on the counter by the sink when leveling. Followed Dometic's advice and leveled the MoHo using the level on the bottem of the fridge and then found a spot that was more convient to use that had the same readings as the bottem of the fridge.
I drive into a spot, if it feels good driving in, I stop and I set there and feel the level and then go out and put down the planks and return and drive up on them. If it feels within acceptable limits, I ask the DW to get the level out and take a reading, if she gives me the okay I park it. If she thinks it's too far off, I look and decide what adjustments to make. It's kind of a Zen thing, you know kind of like how Jerry Brown governs California.
I was in the home building and remodeling trade for years and you get a feel for level after awhile. We have an A and there is no good place for a level in the cockpit area and I think that is true of a C.
Hope you get some good answers here that work for you and Good Camping.
|
sbishop
|
02/08/12 07:02am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
New non-corrosive battery hold downs
The hold downs for the batteries were mild steel and through the years have become corroded and usless, they also covered the cell covers and removing the cell covers required removing the straps that went from side to side over the batteries. I removed all the mild steel and bought 1/4 - 20 SS all thread and SS nuts and washers and a piece of 2" wide by 1/2" cutting board scrap from a plastic fabricator. I made two "Ells" out of the plastic and one "T" and put them on the all thread and tighten them down. No more corroosion and I can access the cell caps without removing any straps. I had removed the corroded hold down rod, nut and washers on the hold down for the chassis battery earlier. Here are some pictures of the finished products,
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff459/debishop1/IMG_6206.jpg width=640
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff459/debishop1/IMG_6205.jpg width=640
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff459/debishop1/IMG_6204.jpg width=640
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff459/debishop1/IMG_6203.jpg width=640
I cut enough pieces to replace the two hold downs for the chassis battery but wanted to see if these would work before changing those. So far they seem to be secure, I was worried that the two outside rods might not be sturdy enough to hold the plastic brackets firmly on top of the batteries but they seem good. It was a pretty easy upgrade and cost about $16.00, $4 for the plastic and $12 for the all thread, nuts and washers. I had the screws on had and have more than enough to finish the project. Next is relocating all of the smaller guage wires from the terminals to a pair of buss bars I bought so that there are no more than two terminals on each stud. Most of the smaller wires have fuses and I plan on bringing all of them right next to the positive buss bar where they are easy to get to for replacement if necessary. As you can see in the forth picture there are two wires to the ground terminal, I am thinking about moving the small ground to the ground buss too. There are five conductors connected to the hot terminal and you can see that only about half the nut has stud in it. I installed the battery switch on the hot lead and will move it to the negative terminal after I move the small ground to the grouns buss.
|
sbishop
|
02/07/12 12:29pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
|
|
RE: Sprint vs. Verizon vs. AT&T
From our experience with "pay as you go" phones and my brothers phones, I'd go with Verizon for coverage and AT&T for value. My brother and I both have had Sprint/Nextel/Boost and the Boost phone was lousy on our trip this last fall. 37 states and six provinces. DD has Boost no contract full service $50/month service and still has lousy coverage. Verizon is most expensive but like someone else said you get what you pay for.
|
sbishop
|
02/07/12 10:52am |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Where Can I find Windows
Walt's RV Salvage and Surplus. I think they're in Rialto, CA. Google for phone. There are guests in my offrice/spare bedroom or I would go get their card.
|
sbishop
|
02/07/12 10:42am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
|
|
RE: add electric to gas water heater
popeyemth, the kit includes the instructions but from what I have been able to glean from various posts is install the adaplter and hott rod in tank drain hole, memove some insulation from tank, mount thermostat, connect hottrod to thermostat, connect input wires to thermostat, route wire to switch location and connect wires from breaker to switch and from thermostat to swithc. Simple except for finding convient location for switch and running the wires from breaker to switch to thermostat.
|
sbishop
|
02/07/12 10:22am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: I found this odd
I believe tahiti16 is patialy correct, in CA in 1965 it was legal for someone to ride in a TC in CA, but two way communications were required. wm8yxm is also correct about those so called towing charts, I have checked a couple of things in them with the CHP and gotten different answers. CHP gave me copies of DMV code book showing actual requirements on several items and they differed from charts. cekkk,s comment about insurance is wrong in most states, if you pay for it you have it and they are ligally requried to pay. They may try to recoupe costs by sueing you for neglegence or by raising their rates to you but most states require they pay. If you are inviolation of the law, that is a legal issue and they are not LEO's and it is a civil matter that must be settled in court, not at their descresion..
|
sbishop
|
02/07/12 08:59am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Why does grilled cheese sandwiches stick in the pan?
If it wern't for the fact that we have friends and family in Florida, you just gave me a good reason not to go there. I use non stick fry pans but back befor that I used castiron and never had a GC stick. But like mosr suggest Real Butter (I HATE margarine, dates back to the ration card era and getting margarine in plastic bags with a dot of coloring on the side you squeezed befor kneeding that ...) on both sides and Fresche's Mustard on the inside.
|
sbishop
|
02/06/12 11:23am |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
|
|
RE: Rules Regarding Carrying Ammo
I can't answer your question about legally but I will tell you I have traveled from Los Angeles to the Oregon coast since I was 9 years old and even had a home there and never once in over 60 years have we ever been stopped at a roadblock and been asked how much ammo we were carrying. I've only been stopped once in all those years and that was for two miles over and rather CS. I've never even wondered about it. It's a DA,DT type of thing. Wish I was going up there to live even though my grand nephew's fiver was swept away in the floods on the coast.
|
sbishop
|
02/06/12 10:35am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: What RV Books Do You Carry?
Sometimes I don't feel like tearing into problems on the road and just let a shop do the work. I carry all the manuals that came with the rig and a copy of the Trailer Life Campground book, copies of the AAA camping books for the area we will visit and tons of maps for the DW who loves maps. We had problems with the heater last fall and I had neither the experience nor the space to tear it out and fix it even if I had the service manual along. I learned a long time ago that tne BSA motto, "Be Prepared" does not exclude finding an expert at times. After all it's all about the traveling not about spending time repairing. Just my "Never to be Humble Opinion".
|
sbishop
|
02/06/12 10:21am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Heater question
Our heater motor died last September while we were starting what turned out to be a 13,200 mile, ten week trip. It was in the low twenties at night and we went out and bought a cheap 1500 watt electric heater. It worked fine heating but we had put out the extra money for a good digital thermostat for the propane heater and the elec. heater didn't have one and was hard to regulate. I would suggest if you buy an electric heater buy one with a good thermostat. The propane heater was repaired and the DW woke up a few times thinking there was a problem because the heater was having a hard time keeping up with the cold, but, for the most oart she lives with the sound. Me, I was on submarines, want a noisey enviroment, try living in one of those. I sleep through almost anything. If your DW is sensitive to noise I think an oil nfilled heater would be best and the new ones heat up pretty fast and are silent, some come with very accurate thermostats but I wouldn't give up our propane heater for anything.
|
sbishop
|
02/06/12 10:08am |
Travel Trailers
|
