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RE: Euro motorhomes... why don't we have these in the USA?
5 years ago when we were shopping for a motor home replacement, the Rialta and the Vista (both using the VW van chassis) were considered but eventually ruled out due to their rediculous mark-up and "impractical" features. You paid more but got much less in all categories.
If this Euro-thing was offered, it too would have been considered, assuming it would fit in our garage, was priced reasonably, and it's features were practical. It is very hard to tell from their website if the unit is practical.
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ron.dittmer
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05/25/12 04:49pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: It's been a year since .....
I am envious.
Not sure I would have gone with a Super C with trailer, but that is only a matter of personal taste.
I see your rig is a 2005 so it's got some years on it. I think your "Troubles" list is very short & friendly.
Thanks for sharing. Enjoy!
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ron.dittmer
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05/24/12 02:36pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 30 amp and 50 amp electric question
I too carry the pigtail 50-30 adaptor here.
http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/0/9/09554_1000.jpg width=350
I do wonder how much power the adaptor provides. I did an ohm check on my adaptor to discover one of the two hot 50 amp terminals is isolated from the 30 amp side, getting half of the 50 amp service.
Does this mean I am getting 25 or 50 amp service?
This subject matter always gets me confused.
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ron.dittmer
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05/24/12 05:51am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: just bought a 1982 coachmen mini rv. I need help!
My Vote also,...If you can not do the work yourself,.??? Find a better rig, There will be a lot more there to re-build than you think.Hi oldtrucker63. I hope you don't mind me sharing your story. I hope the OP contacts you directly as I am sure you can provide them with some great insight.
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ron.dittmer
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05/23/12 11:12am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Mounting front stgabilizer on a class c
If your rig is rocking a lot when walking around in it at campsites, then it is worse yet when on the road.
I advise to install heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars from either Roadmaster or Helwig to solve multiple problems with one solution. The Helwig bars are very affordable and can be installed by a next-to-novice.
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ron.dittmer
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05/23/12 11:06am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: just bought a 1982 coachmen mini rv. I need help!
Good reading on rebuilding a motor home is This Post.
2.5 years later and oldtrucker63 is almost finished rebuilding his 1979 Dodge class-C motor home. And he has been diligent working on it too. There are currently 172 pages, but scan for pics from the start to see what to expect. Old rigs suffer so much wood rot. Maybe it will change your mind.
http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab246/oldtrucker63/Picture019.jpg width=640
http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab246/oldtrucker63/Picture043.jpg width=640
http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab246/oldtrucker63/Picture111.jpg width=640
http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab246/oldtrucker63/Picture1144.jpg width=640
http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab246/oldtrucker63/Picture1159.jpg width=640
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ron.dittmer
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05/23/12 10:44am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Driving in Big Cities
If there are more than two lanes, I try to stay in lane 2 considering the very right hand lane as lane 1. I do this to avoid traffic attempting to merge and have no idea what they are doing. Most big cities have at least three lanes.Me too.
Adding that I try to keep up with the flow of traffic as best as I can without going too much over the speed limit for trucks and for towing. Then just let the cars get around me when they want to.
In that lane, the cars expect such behavior from trucks and motor homes. I like to follow trucks in the city as long as I can see the signs in time.
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ron.dittmer
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05/23/12 10:10am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Class C vs Class B+
To help clarify the points recently made by others.
Motor home manufactures start with 3 different chassis categories.
Class-A starts with a stripped chassis
http://fleetowner.com/site-files/fleetowner.com/files/imagecache/galleryformatter_slide_penton/gallery_images/F-59-stripped-chassis.gif width=640
Class-B starts with a fancy version of a cargo van
http://www.carquotes.com/StockPhoto.ashx?NewCarBodyStyleId=39238 width=640
Class-B+ and C start with a made-for-motor home cut-away chassis
Unlike what is shown below, they do not include seats. Only a mounted cafeteria-style chair for parking lot driving.
They also do not have side view mirrors along with other minor differences.
Seats & mirrors are supplied by the motor home manufacture.
The rear wall has a plastic protective barrier during shipping of the chassis.
http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/201203/2009-gmc-savana-3_800x0w.jpg width=640
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ron.dittmer
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05/22/12 08:34pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Used Class C--maybe
Pending Floorplan Allowances.......
Most Ford chassis have a single front swivel.
http://phoenixusarv.com/albums/2551_models/slides/DSC04774.jpg width=640
A few Fords have duel swivel seats.
The 6-way power driver seat feature is traded off for a manual pedistal swivel.
http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=681.0;attach=1162;image width=640
As Dakzuki says, Sprinters more often have both.
I don't know if the driver seat is a 6-way power seat or not.
http://phoenixusarv.com/albums/2350_models/slides/20110909_39.jpg width=640
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ron.dittmer
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05/22/12 07:20pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Class C vs Class B+
They are the same in every way except for one single distinction, and that is the compartment over the driver. The B+ is aerodynamic, most often having an entertainment center and storage up top, and little to no frontal overhang. The class-C most often has a very large frontal overhang, usually more boxy to accomodate a huge bed up top.
The introduction of the B+ years ago, the motor home was scaled down. They were shorter, narrower, and lower, basically a mini-version of a large class-C. But over the years they too have grown, making the frontal area the only true distinction for current times.
This is a B+ (aerodynamic cap)
http://media.gowinnebago.com/models/globalElements/hero/wb_4e1c3833_12_ap_hero_full.jpg width=640
This is a C (huge bed up top)
http://media.gowinnebago.com/models/globalElements/hero/wb_4e44067f_12_ac_hero_full.jpg width=640
Here is an example of an early B+, but unsure when the name "B+" was actually birthed.
It makes sense why this would be called a B+ because it is just a tad bigger than a B.
As they grew bigger and bigger, the term B+ has become inappropriate.
http://brendakasprzyk.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/img_0033-22.jpg width=640
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ron.dittmer
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05/22/12 06:40pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Used Class C--maybe
coolmom42,
Check out the Phoenix Cruiser model 2100. They have been made for many years so with patience, you should be able to find one fairly reasonably priced.
The 2100 is only 21 feet long end-to-end, yet is fully featured with real practical features, nothing is novelty-like. It has a real kitchen with a large sink, large fridge & large separate freezer, and a practical use bathroom with a real shower. It has nice sized holding tanks & propane to support extended remote camping time. Phoenix Cruisers in general are very well constructed with exteriors well engineered for resisting rain water leakage, a common problem with many other brands. They use decent quality materials and have good workmanship. They are fully featured rigs lacking nothing. They have a TV, generator, microwave, 2 burner stove, roof a/c, and even a 2000 watt whole house inverter and twin coach batteries to use many 110v appliances without the need for an external power source. Also is a really cool sewer management system that utilizes a Sanicon mascerator pump. PCs are built on the Ford E350 (a few on the Sprinter as well) chassis which is proven in the industry to be ideal for RV applications.
Model 2100 does not have a dedicated full time bed, but it has both a dinette and couch which both turn into nice beds. You could make up the dinette permanently into a real nice day bed and set up a small table to eat at when needed. I think the 2100 is best without the slide-out option. I feel the 2100 is ideal for a single yet able to easily accomodate a grand child or two, or a second adult.
We own model 2350 which is 2.5 feet longer which introduces a permanent double bed. See ours HERE
Here is a beautiful used NO-slide-out 2100 for sale right now.
You surely can get around in a 2100, not much bigger than a standard van.
Click Here For Details
http://www.phoenixusarv.com/assets/community/20.jpg width=640
http://www.phoenixusarv.com/assets/community/18.jpg width=640
http://www.phoenixusarv.com/assets/community/19.jpg width=640
http://www.phoenixusarv.com/assets/community/17.jpg width=640
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ron.dittmer
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05/22/12 02:36pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Ford vs Chevy
The Chevy interior is more roomy which translates to a bit more comfort than the Ford, but the Ford isn't a torture chamber. Unfortunately the discussions over this topic can come across as such.
My brother and his wife traveled many years in a full size Chevy Express conversion van. When shopping for their first motor home, they too complained about the Ford being less roomy and initially ruled out many rigs because of it. When they found the perfect motor home built on a Ford, they clenched their teeth and bought it. They quickly adjusted and the subject died quickly. They love their motor home, period. They are not youngsters either.
If the passenger needs to stretch a bit, it's a motor home so just get up and go elsewhere. You will likely be doing that regardless getting food & refreshments, and even the occasional bathroom visit.
I advise to shop for a motor home, not a chassis. If you have two rigs in the running, one on a Chevy and the other on a Ford, then think about it. But don't get hung up on this subject as you run a high risk of ruling out the perfect motor home.
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ron.dittmer
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05/21/12 09:42pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Anyone pulling a 4 door Jeep?
Ron, thanks for your photos!You are welcome. :)
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ron.dittmer
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05/21/12 09:21pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Anyone pulling a 4 door Jeep?
We own a lighter weight 9200 pound, 24 foot motor home, built on a 2007 Ford E350 chassis with V10 engine.
The first few years we towed a 2100 pound, 2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder with no secondary braking.
After those first years we have since been towing a 4300 pound Jeep Liberty with secondary braking.
We stop much quicker now with the heavier vehicle than with the vehicle that was half as heavy. We happen to have a Roadmaster tow setup and a UNIFIED braking setup, and are very pleased with both for ease of use and braking perfomance. With the driver adjustable brake sensitivity set to extreme, we stop quicker with our tow than if not towing anything. This is ideal when taking on long steep grades. No more burning of brakes. The chart below is true.
http://www.usgear.cc/images/towbrk/stopchrt.gif width=640
Here is a picture of our towing setup. The red coily wire takes care of all the electrical connections between the two vehicles. One click per end and it's done. Everything else seen is the tow bar, the safety cables, and the thin safety break-away cable.
The two vehicles come apart in under 60 seconds (more like 45 seconds) when my wife gets in the Jeep and takes care of matters in there while I am outside.
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6237/6263684266_611bdf5475_z.jpg width=640
Here was our first tow without secondary braking. The only difference here is no skinny break-away cable and the red coily is a 3rd blue wire instead.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3648/3492009900_0e77eb8005_o.jpg width=640
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ron.dittmer
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05/21/12 02:43pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Why is it so hard to find a decent used unit???
I think any coach that has a lot of seams in the construction is going to be a problem i.e. rubber roofs, sheet siding. I will buy a one piece fiberglass type unit the next time.100% in agreement. But any seamless model will generally be very tight for more than two people, and locating one for under $50,000 will be a hard find.
An alternative to seamless is limited seamwork. A B+ with seamless aero-cap, 5 sided rear wall, crowned & rolled-over fiberglass roof, all in combination is the next best thing. They are offered in all sizes and are more affordable.
Our first motor home was one piece seamless fiberglass construction. We sold it after 24 years and all was still well at the time of sale. This time around we went with the second best construction method going with limited seam work due to cost and other factors. Five years into this one and so far all is well.
The height, width and length of the rig all have some influence. Bigger will have greater stresses on the structure. Smaller offers much less stress. Linear footage and location of seamwork plays into it as well.
The weakest link is the conventional class-C front bunk over-hang, followed by a flat roof without roll-over-the-side roofing, and seams in the rear at the corners where side meets rear.
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ron.dittmer
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05/21/12 02:00pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Why is it so hard to find a decent used unit???
Paul,
What you are experiencing is why I always tell people to stop looking at brands, or low end models of otherwise good brands that don't meet a certian basic "quality construction" standard, and focus on those that do. You will likely spend your $50,000 on a rig that is older than you initially hoped to get, but a little older well built used rig is much better than a younger cheaply built one.
You know the story of the 3 little pigs. One house made of straw, the second of sticks, and the 3rd of brick. Same rules apply with motor homes.
Sorry that I am not more encouraging here, but you get my point, or so I hope. $50,000 is a lot of money. You don't want to spend that kind of money on a rolling problem. If you took a risk and bought something cheaply made for a lot less, that does change the investment risk.
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ron.dittmer
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05/20/12 08:06pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Ford vs Chevy
I have observed on this forum, posted mpg between Ford and Chevy is more like 1 mpg, not 2 to 3 mpg.Really? From my reading, it seems the 2-3 is accurate. But perhaps your reading covers more boards than mine.No other boards. I observed that here on rv.net. I read this based on similar length/weight motor homes and whether or not they were towing another vehicle. Admittedly not a serious focus of mine so my accuracy is well to be questioned.
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ron.dittmer
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05/20/12 01:56pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Ford vs Chevy
I have observed on this forum, posted mpg between Ford and Chevy is more like 1 mpg, not 2 to 3 mpg.
The Ford will handle a heaiver house and tow, but in your particular case, if the Chevy still offers adequate weight margin for the rig you are considering, I advise to consider the Chevy for better interior comfort, from foot-well room to a smaller dog house to get past.
BTW: The Chevy frontal area is 9" longer than the Ford, so if inches count as they do for us with a limited garage length, the Ford is the winner. I think that is how Chevy got more foot room and smaller dog house (dog house = inside engine cover).
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ron.dittmer
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05/20/12 07:45am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Atwood Water Heater Need to Drain?
If you decide to drain your water heater, make sure that you refill it before turning on the electric or your propane heater.Actually there is no concern of damage. When you completely drain the hot water heater, it still has 1/2 gallon. This according to the manufacture and confirmed with personal experience when I removed the electric heating element. I asked the technician why after a full drain, so much water came out. He said it had to do with protecting the heating element if accidentally left on with an empty tank. He also said the left-over water can freeze amd thaw during off-season safely without ruining anything.
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ron.dittmer
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05/17/12 08:53pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: New tv in mh
In the remote places we usually camp at, acceptable strength digital signals are very rare, so we most often resort to our stash of DVD movies.
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ron.dittmer
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05/17/12 08:45pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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