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Forum
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RE: Do you suppose that RV manufactures...
One time when we took a tour of the HH factory in KS our guide told us that for every "new" model that HH was making one or more employes would take it out camping and make suggestions for improvements before production started.
x2 about Mike the HH CEO reading/answering posts on the HH oweners site! Mike himself will sometimes answer some of the posts!
So there is at least one manuf. that is open to suggestions.
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richardcoxid
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02/07/12 09:07pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: KOA Resort Fee
It has probably 25 years since we have stayed at a Keep On Adding!
But to be honest most of our camping is BLM in the AZ desert for the winter and at Forrest Service cc's in the mountains of WY, MT and ID during the summer.
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richardcoxid
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02/07/12 08:45pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Adding a new flatscreen TV
Sixpack_Jesus
I would take photos except that I have a problem! My 5w is in Tucson waiting for us to leave Idaho for the warm country, oh well maybe we will be able to leave in a couple of weeks.
I think this is what you are asking concerning the wiring.
For my application there are 4 wires going to the TV.
• HMDI 1- output from the Sat receiver.
• HMDI 2- output from DVD player.
• Coax cable from the Batwing “off” air antenna.
• 120VAC for TV power.
After cutting 2 fairly large rectangular shaped pass thru holes in the plywood door I ran the 4 cables parallel to each other along the bottom edge of the door (be sure to keep them high enough to be able to close the door) The cables are clamped to the door with plastic cable clamps screwed to the door. I think that I made the door over lap the opening about 1” at the top and bottom. In the hinge corner I allowed enough slack to open the door and then also attached the cables to the inside bottom of the now empty compartment, at the back of the compartment the cables spread out to their respective areas.
One problem was trying to find a “closer/door open snubber” device to satisfy me, No luck, I scrounged thru my junk drawer and found a length of about 3/32” dia braded Nylon line that had a little “stretch” when pulled taut. That and 2 “eye” screws solved that problem.
BTW- To assist you in mounting the TV to the door buy 2 extra mounting machine screws about 1" longer than the others. Hacksaw the heads off of them and carefully cut screw driver slots in the cut off end. Then when mounting the TV, screw the 2 alignment screws finger tight into 2 diagonal TV threaded mounting screw holes. Align the alignment screws into the door and have your wife hold the TV in place while you screw in the other 2 mounting screws. When they are finger tight remove the alignment screws and screw in the other mounting screws, tighten the 4 screws evenly.
Keep the alignment screws because if you ever have to remove the TV they can be used in reverse order to assist in removing the TV.
If this doesn’t answer your questions PM me and I will try to answer you.
Do you go south in the winter, where do you go? Maybe we could meet up later this winter?
Richard
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richardcoxid
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02/03/12 12:43pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: weight on retracted slides.
never heard of this!
Our '98 we have used the L/R dinnet when the slide is in and slept in the bed when the B/R slide is in.
Why don't you send the Manuf. an email and see what they say, they made it, they should know the answer.
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richardcoxid
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01/28/12 03:39pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: break controlers direclink vs prodgy p2 any one know
Boise John is I had looked farther I would have seen that you are from Boise. We have 2 sons and their families there and will obviously be going there next summer. I know that is along time from now. If you haven't made the change by then maybe we could get together and you could drive my outfit to try the Max Brake out.
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richardcoxid
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01/23/12 05:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: RV Power Sub-panel
I believe that the "code" for residential houses and RVs are different. If anybody knows let us know or check it out!
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richardcoxid
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01/23/12 05:03pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: break controlers direclink vs prodgy p2 any one know
The DirecLinc controller is nothing more than a glorified inertia controller i.e.: it DOES NOT read brake line pressure from the OBDI II port as their literature implies!
After going through many pendulum/inertia controllers I finally broke down and bought the best controller on the market today. No more adjusting the controller for I’state driving then putting yourself thru the windshield when driving a 30MPH etc. You adjust it once , even change trailers and forget it.
The Max Brake uses a transducer to read hydraulic brake line pressure when braking. Do a search on this site and other RV and the TDR sites for Max Brake brake controller.
I purchased mine from “Plug- it Right”, Dianne was very helpful and my purchase was shipped on time and delivered on time. Believe me when you get rid of your old “time based” controller and use the Max Brake you will kick yourself for not getting one sooner and never look back! As for me the time based and inertia controllers would make good paper weights on your desk.
A short history on brake controllers- (as I remember it)
My parents had a small single axle pull trailer back in the mid 50’s. The brake controller was a pressure operated variable 6V resister pad about brake pedal size and 1/2in thick. It was clipped to the brake pedal. This was truly a PROPROTIONAL controller i.e. Pressing the brake pedal compressed the resister and the voltage to the Rv brakes would increase. No computer or anything, just a pressure operated high amperage variable resister.
The next generation of brake controllers tapped a small hydraulic line into a brake line at the master cylinder and was snaked into the cab and connected to a small slave cylinder in the brake controller body. This slave cylinder was connected to a variable 12V resister. There again a truly proportional system. This was the system of choice for 20-25 years until Anti-Lock brakes were introduced, the vehicle manufactures wouldn’t allow you to tap into the brake hydraulic systems.
The controller manufactures came up with the problematic pendulum (inertia) type and time constant controllers.
I also had one of these time constant death traps! When you applied the TV brakes the controller slowly ramped up to max in applying the RV brakes. This means that when you were gradually slowing down the longer you had the TV brakes applied the harder the RV brakes were applied, then release the brakes and apply them again. Conversely under a panic stop the TV brakes were doing all the stopping while the RV brakes were gradually increasing.
Also about this time there was a Jordan Ultma 2020. This was operated by a small diameter cable that one end was connected to the brake pedal arm and the other end connected to the controller body that moved a variable resistor to vary the voltage to the brakes. This was again a truly PROPROTIONAL brake controller, i.e. apply the brakes when going forward, reverse or even stopped and voltage was applied to the RV brakes. I understand that the Jordan was sold and the new owners stopped producing them.
The MaxBrake has a pressure transducer connected into a Hyd. Brake line. This is again a truly proportional brake controller! Press the brake pedal and the voltage to the brakes increases even when you are stopped or are backing. The small volume of brake fluid displaced by the transducer is approved for use with TV Anti-lock brakes.
The Max Brake controller is available mail order only, I am not aware of any RV dealer that stocks them.
I did make a change to the instructions- Max Brake supplied a steel brake line that went between the adapter “T” and the Transducer. To me that presented two potential problems, 1- bending the steel line without kinking it, 2- vibration of the relative heavy transducer could cause the 8 inch long steel line to work harden with the potential of a resulting fracture. I had a local hydraulic hose company fabricate a length of hydraulic brake hose with the proper crimped on end fittings. I then attached a small piece of 1/8”aluminum to the firewall pinch weld and used a small “U” bolt to attach the transducer to the bracket. On my truck there are two power brake lines alongside the Master Cylinder that the transducer could also be attached to using cable ties.
BTW- I am under the impression that the Brake Smart (very similar in operation to the MaxBrake) is either no longer business or are almost out of business!
Max Brake is available only by mail order.
http://www.plugitright.com/ and http://www.maxbrake.com/
There may be other suppliers also.
Disclaimer- I have NO financial or other interest in “Plug-it-right” or “Max Brake”.
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richardcoxid
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01/23/12 04:57pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Adding a new flatscreen TV
When I replaced our old analog TV I bought a 3/4" piece of Oak veneer plywood, a piano hinge and 2 small latches and made a door to cover outside the old TV compartment. By not sizing a flat screen TV to fit in an analog compartment I was able to use a larger TV surface mounted on the new door, plus I gained another storage compartment
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richardcoxid
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01/23/12 04:07pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Landmark Grand Canyon
Swivel HD casters can be welded to the frame. That way you would be protected at all times.
A local Army Surplus here stocks them, just purchase ones that are rated high enough to do the job and not crush I would recomend a quilified welding shop to do the welding.
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richardcoxid
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01/23/12 03:09pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: G Series Tires 12 ply vs. 14 ply
OOPS! I just found Sailun's web site-
http://www.sailuntires.ca/
The G614 replacement tire is the Sailun S 637
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richardcoxid
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01/17/12 10:28pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: G Series Tires 12 ply vs. 14 ply
For those that are replacing their G/Y, G614srt LR “G” tires I have found an alternate tire.
I know that they are manuf. In China, but a local “big truck” tire shop here stocks them and use Sailun tires exclusively as replacement tires on Low Boy trailers.
http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=135&Cookie=nextag&details=Ordern&typ=R-190929&ranzahl=4&nichtweiter=1
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richardcoxid
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01/17/12 10:21pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Adding electrical plug?
“Wiremold 800” is a surface mounting system used to add/move wireways/outlet boxes etc of existing 120 V outlet boxs, available at Lowes, Home Depot and your better local hardware stores.
http://www.legrand.us/wiremold.aspx?NewLookRedir=yes
On their web site look up "wiremold 800" under products.
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richardcoxid
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01/09/12 12:58pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Yellowstone
I will STAY on the OP’s question and not hijack it. (except for the Bar J)
The figure 8 loop road around the interior of YNP is about 170 miles! Plan on a MINUMIN FULL LONG day on each the upper loop and the lower loop. With a 45 mph speed (the rangers have radar) limit and the numerous stops and animals it WILL take you MUCH longer to each loop that you think. I would use either Madison CG or Canyon CG, or if you want hookups Fishing Bridge,remember the elevation at Canyon is about 7,000’. That way it is about equal distant for either loop. Then head south to GTNP
We use the Gros Ventre CG a few miles north and east of Jackson.
In Jackson a MUST SEE is the BarJ ChuckWagon dinner show!
http://www.barjchuckwagon.com/
I guarantee it will be the BEST $22.00 PP that you will spend the entire trip!
The Bar J is having a concert in Rigby, ID next Monday, We have tickets, that will make 5 times that we will have seen them this year.
Let us know about your travels next summer.
Disclaimer- I have no commercial or other interest in the Bar J.
Richard
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richardcoxid
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12/16/11 04:17pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: headed to NM and AZ over the holidays; weather report?
Do a search for and bookmark- “The Weather Channel” and “Accuweather”.
On both of these sites all you have to do is to enter the Name of the town, State or ZIP code you will get the current weather plus projections for the next week/month.
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richardcoxid
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12/16/11 02:40pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: water heater timer
Here is a hint when using Gas/Elect simultaneously.
The water temperature when using either Gas or Elect in most models of RV HWHs is controlled by non-adjustable (either on or off) Snap Stats. These are small thermostats about 1/2in in Dia and about 3/8in high exclusive of the push on connector terminals. On a typical RV HWH they are held in contact with the metal tank with a small (about 2in x 2in) piece of black foam tape. Normally the Gas stat will be on the gas burnner side on the HWH and the elect stat on the elect heating element side of the HWH.
Carefully remove the tape and record the part numbers of the Gas “stat”. A wholesale electrical supplier or others should be able to cross-reference the “on” temperatures of each. Chose a new “GAS “stat (it’s a small dollar item) that turns “ON” about 10 degrees lower than the elect stat.
Now, when both Gas and Elect are turned “ON” , a small usage of hot water or heat loss will cause the elect stat to turn “ON” first (use the CG’s electricity not my propane). If the temp of the water continues to decrease then the elect stat will turn “ON”.
May you have fair winds and following seas!
Disclaimer- Be sure to de-energize the 120 VAC and the 12VDC before working on the HWH!
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richardcoxid
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12/16/11 02:08pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: How to stay safe at night
When “Boondocking” I feel as safe or more safe as I do at home! Why?
At home- Hedges, Shrubs, Flowers close to the windows to hide behind, some of the window sill height is low, 36” entry door that opens inward.
RV- open (clear) area around RV and under security light. Lowest window sill height for my RV is 42”, pretty difficult to climb into plus they will have to climb over 2 recliners. 24” entry door that opens outward. Pretty difficult to PUSH in. Plus you have to step off the step before opening the door all the way.
We have a next door widow lady that has the answer- She went our local Army surplus store and bought a well used pair of size 13-14 Paratrooper boots, a length of light weight chain (I drug it behind my car to break up the plating so it would rust) with a snap lock on the end and a dog watering bowl from a neighbor that had been chewed on by their dog.
When she pulls into a Wally World etc. she picks out a spot under a security light, places the boots outside next to the steps with the dog watering bowl and chain attached to the steps and goes to bed!
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richardcoxid
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12/16/11 01:56pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: rear scissor stabilizers
Look at some of your local RV stores for Rollers/Casters in the weight capactiy that you need. Then go to your local "Army Surplus" store st see what kind of selection that they have. A local Welding shop can fabricate breckets and attach them for you.
Be sure to weld the brackets to the rear most of the FRAME, most metal bumpers arn't strong enought unless you add extra bracing.
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richardcoxid
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12/07/11 03:35pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Trailer Tires (again)
For those that arn't familiar with the date of manufacture date of tires- Somewhere on the sidewall of the tires there is a 4 digit number inside of a oval (sometimes rectangle) area. This denotes the week and year of manufacture. "2611" means the 26th week of 2011.
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richardcoxid
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12/07/11 03:25pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Where have all the RVs gone? DOO-DAH DOO-DAH
Here in Idaho and Utah the cost of Diesel is $1.05-$1.08/gal ($4.05-$4.13/gal) more than unleaded regular. Guess who has a Diesel pick up?
After AZ this winter ALL my camping next summer will be in local Forest Service etc. CG's where the "Golden Age Passport" is used, ie-outside Yellowstone and Grand Teton NP's and in the Sawtooth Mtn's in central ID and then for a minimum of a week at a time! No more short camping trips.
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richardcoxid
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12/07/11 03:01pm |
Folding Trailers
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RE: King Pin Lock
Most of us have an un-used padlock or two lying around. If not, purchase one at your trusty neighborhood hardware store. While there purchase a 1 foot length of 5/16’or 3/8’ chain (it is sold in 1 foot increments), go home, wrap it around the hitch pin groove and from one end secure it with the lock. Count the un-needed links, go back to the hardware store and have them cut off the extra links. Or let the un-used links hang.
Remember measure twice and cut once!
Viola! You have a Hitch Pin lock as good as any of the commercial pin locks for just a couple of dollars unless you have to purchase a Pad Lock.
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richardcoxid
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11/12/11 02:53pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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