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Date Posted |
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RE: Moisture between glass in door
If you can get the glass out of the door, most any large local glass shop should be able to repair it, or make a duplicate. The place in Hudson, FL, does a great job but I think this is probably something that you can get repaired locally, IF you take the glass out of the door for them.
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rgatijnet1
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02/09/12 01:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Red Max 3 ??
Go to the Red Max website or read the specs at any of the stores that sell this product. It is a floor finish for INTERIOR floors ONLY. If you want to use it for another purpose, that it was not designed for, then you become the test subject. I would guess that if it was suitable for EXTERIOR paint protection, the manufacturer would want to advertise it as such. Having painted many automobiles, airplanes, and RV's, I would never use it on anything but my floors.
They do make specific products to clear coat exterior painted surfaces, designed for each specific type of paint, but the cost is more than what some people would want to pay.
Red Max is cheap and worth every penny, for a floor finish.
Have you actually tried it? What about all the people (dozens) who have tried it and report good results? I'll wager everyone who has been knocking it in this thread haven't actually tried it.
I have seen the results on some motor homes and I don't like the look at all. I guess it is just like the patent leather shoes that came out years ago. They are shiny, but they do not look as good as a pair of polished leather shoes. The finish makes the coach look like it has a fake, plastic like shine, rather than the sheen that a properly waxed paint job would have. Personally I think it looks bad/cheap.
As I mentioned, I have personally painted all kinds of vehicles, including RV's, airplanes, and exotic cars. I know what a good paint job looks like, and RMP is not it.
On top of that, I also know what is involved with properly preparing a painted surface for a new paint job. That is why I mentioned that I have no idea what a paint shop would charge someone to remove all of the RMP from the exterior in order to give it a decent paint job. For all I know, you may never be able to get it out of every nook and cranny. For that reason it is a deal breaker for me if I saw one for sale.
I have been reading all of the various posts on RMP and from all accounts, even those of you that use it, don't use it on a nice new coaches. One man even went out on a limb and put it on the hood of his Son-in-laws old car. Heck, I would probably use it on my Mother-in-laws car myself. :B
Another one of you said that he wouldn't recommend it for a Porsche. Why not??? Many motor homes are worth as much as a Porsche. One said that he would not use it on a newer coach, but it was fine for his 12 year old coach. I guess that sort of sums it up. The users seem to feel it is fine for a worn out coach where the owner does not want to spend the money to do a decent paint job but he wants it to look shiny.
From the various comments from the users, I have not read one where the person actually asked the manufacturer if they would recommend it for an exterior use. Why not? What are you afraid of?
The exterior of a motor home can have any number of different types of paint applied by the manufacturer. It could also have decals made of different types of plastics. In spite of all of these differences, some of you are still willing to tell the owners of coaches worth tens of thousands of dollars that it is SAFE to use an interior floor finish on their motor homes.
As I mentioned, they have specific coatings that are designed for the numerous different types of paint to extend the life and refresh the appearance. The facts are, from reading the various posts here, is that the only fact that the users are interested in is that it is cheap and that it makes the coach shiny. They don't care about the long term effects or what it may mean to a future buyer of their coach. You are right, I have never used it on my coach, and I never will. My reputation for painting Classic cars is why some of my cars are in museums. But heck, RMP is cheap and easy to slap on so go for it. It is your coach to experiment with.
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rgatijnet1
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02/09/12 11:24am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Permanently wired shore power line?
My power cord is hooked up this same way but I have a small cover(like the sewer cut out with a screw on cover) in the bottom of the compartment that can be removed to run the cord out the bottom. This allows me to lock the storage door. Have you looked to see if there is some other way to route the cord?
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rgatijnet1
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02/09/12 06:51am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tires
Most tires are mounted using some type of wet lubricant, which pretty much cancels out any dry air/nitrogen advantage. Save your money and use air.
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rgatijnet1
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02/08/12 03:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Would you Wax your RV?
Gale,
"Again I know some were like me in thinking it sounded to good to be true but once I used it then I realized how much money/energy I had wasted trying to use conventional wax and its build up problems."
No offense, but don't you think that repeated coats of Red Max will build up on your coach? It does tend to yellow over time and you don't think that repeated build up of coats that are yellowing is a bad thing? What is your plan when those repeated coats of Red Max start to peel?
It is NOT just an acrylic clear coat suitable for exterior painted surfaces. Different types of paint require different PAINT products to protect them. I think your last sentence sums it up when you remark about the cost. It is a cheap product and worth every penny as a floor coating. Some may want to use it to make their coach look nice and pawn it off on some unsuspecting buyer. My painting experience tells me that eventually it will start to peel off and at that point in time all of the savings will be lost. I can't even imagine what a paint shop would charge to get this floor finish off of a coach to prepare the surface for a decent paint job.
You just wash it off when you want to start over with fresh coats. RMP cleaner is very low cost. I use TSP to clean my hands and tools.
It is amazing how little understanding there is about how simple/safe the Red Max Pro class of finishes are to use.
One thing that made the prep work hard for us getting ready to apply RMP was removing all of the old wax build up around decals, doors, windows and other catch edges.
Did you personally have yellowing when you used Red Max Pro #3? I have not seen that yet even on the white painted metal pick-up truck.
I'm sorry. I've painted too many different vehicles(see my profile) to even consider applying an interior floor finish product on anything I own, other than floors. The yellowing was mentioned by one user today on one of the many RedMax topics. I have to assume that he was telling the truth.
I find it amazing that anyone could possibly think that they have found the holy grail in painted surface protection in a bottle of floor finish. When anyone of the users receives a letter from the manufacturer saying that it is SAFE to use on the exterior painted surfaces of your RV then I may be more agreeable. Right now, even saying the word SAFE when using a floor finish on an expensive RV is just setting the owner up for what may be a big hit to his wallet. I know that if I were purchasing an RV, and it had RedMax applied to the exterior, I would turn and walk away. It would be a deal killer, which is what I would advise anyone who would consider buying an RV with floor finish on the exterior. It would send up a big red flag about what else the owner had taken care of improperly.
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rgatijnet1
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02/08/12 12:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Red Max 3 ??
Go to the Red Max website or read the specs at any of the stores that sell this product. It is a floor finish for INTERIOR floors ONLY. If you want to use it for another purpose, that it was not designed for, then you become the test subject. I would guess that if it was suitable for EXTERIOR paint protection, the manufacturer would want to advertise it as such. Having painted many automobiles, airplanes, and RV's, I would never use it on anything but my floors.
They do make specific products to clear coat exterior painted surfaces, designed for each specific type of paint, but the cost is more than what some people would want to pay.
Red Max is cheap and worth every penny, for a floor finish.
can you explain the similarities to Poliglow then?
The only similarity that I can think of between PoliGlow and Red Max is that neither were designed to be used on painted surfaces.
PoliGlow is designed to be applied to properly prepared fiberglass gel coats, not painted surfaces.
RedMax is designed to be applied to INTERIOR floors, not painted surfaces.
I would also imagine that some chemist added materials to Poliglow to make it suitable for exterior use.
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rgatijnet1
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02/08/12 12:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Would you Wax your RV?
Gale,
"Again I know some were like me in thinking it sounded to good to be true but once I used it then I realized how much money/energy I had wasted trying to use conventional wax and its build up problems."
No offense, but don't you think that repeated coats of Red Max will build up on your coach? It does tend to yellow over time and you don't think that repeated build up of coats that are yellowing is a bad thing? What is your plan when those repeated coats of Red Max start to peel?
It is NOT just an acrylic clear coat suitable for exterior painted surfaces. Different types of paint require different PAINT products to protect them. I think your last sentence sums it up when you remark about the cost. It is a cheap product and worth every penny as a floor coating. Some may want to use it to make their coach look nice and pawn it off on some unsuspecting buyer. My painting experience tells me that eventually it will start to peel off and at that point in time all of the savings will be lost. I can't even imagine what a paint shop would charge to get this floor finish off of a coach to prepare the surface for a decent paint job.
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rgatijnet1
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02/08/12 09:29am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Red Max 3 ??
Go to the Red Max website or read the specs at any of the stores that sell this product. It is a floor finish for INTERIOR floors ONLY. If you want to use it for another purpose, that it was not designed for, then you become the test subject. I would guess that if it was suitable for EXTERIOR paint protection, the manufacturer would want to advertise it as such. Having painted many automobiles, airplanes, and RV's, I would never use it on anything but my floors.
They do make specific products to clear coat exterior painted surfaces, designed for each specific type of paint, but the cost is more than what some people would want to pay.
Red Max is cheap and worth every penny, for a floor finish.
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rgatijnet1
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02/08/12 08:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Would you Wax your RV?
Thanks for all the good feedback. seems like the products used for boats such as Collinite and also the Nu Finish could work well. However, some suggested Red Max, I see there is even another post about Red Max right now? Is Red Max really for older units showing signeds of fading already? My unit is new and still looks good, trying to keep it that way.
Should I rather go with Collinite or similar? Yes? No?
Thanks for the help so far, seems like many has been there and done that before :=)
Red Max is a floor finish product, not a paint restoration/protection product. Some people choose to use it on their motor homes exterior.
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rgatijnet1
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02/08/12 05:51am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V10 Tuners
While they may work it can't be without a trade off. for example when I bought my truck with the V-10 I had to sign a paper acknowledging that I understood that use of any aftermarket tuner would void the power train warranty hence the many web sites dedicated to hiding their use from the dealer when the engine goes in for repair.
They do work well on diesels however most, for gassers, require the use of premium fuel; although I have no first hand experience with the unit mentioned by the OP.
I do find it strange that some computer programmer can find the magic hidden power and fuel mileage that the manufacturer couldn't. GM or Ford would sell their soul for one mpg better mileage or more HP and be advertising around the clock if it were that easy to do with no risk.
That would be a good argument IF we were talking about a standard vehicle. The reality is that Ford and Workhorse made bare chassis for numerous different coach suppliers. At the time it is made, neither Ford or Workhorse knew if the chassis was going to be used on a coach with a gross weight of 10,000 or 25,000 pounds, 25' or 35'. For that reason, the factory ECM's are tuned for a middle of the road situation that may not be ideal for the finished coach. What the custom tuners do is adjust the ECM parameters for the specific weight and gearing used for your coach. They will also adjust the transmission shift points for best performance and economy. You are right, Ford and Workhorse would adjust these things at the factory IF they knew exactly how their bare chassis would be used. Since they don't, it is necessary to go to outside tuners to adjust things once the coach is on the road.
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rgatijnet1
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02/08/12 04:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trans Temp Gauge
Mike,
As I mentioned, on my Allison in my gasser, the sensor is mounted at the output from the torque converter. It IS NOT hooked up to a gauge and I monitor it with my ScanGauge II through my OBDII connection, which I keep hooked up at all times. The Allison transmissions that have a gauge MAY have a second sensor mounted in the sump for the driver to monitor, but I would still guess that they have another sensor mounted at the output of the torque converter to send a code to the OBDII when things get too hot, which could put the coach into limp mode long before the sump temperature registers a problem.
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rgatijnet1
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02/07/12 11:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Mice control
"If there is no way in".......... All that means is that you will not have a problem on the inside of your coach. Mice can and will take up nest in your generator or in any other nook and cranny on the exterior of your coach, like the engine compartment, etc. There are lots of places where mice/rats/squirrels like to reside and almost all of them have wiring that can be chewed while they are there. The best prevention is to keep them from getting anywhere within the perimeter of your coach. If there are mice around, do not assume that they can only damage interior items. Most of your loose wiring is on the exterior.
Snap traps or glue traps are preferable to poison, which allows them to wander off to die in what may be in inaccessible area. The glue traps are really pretty efficient as the mouse will suffocate quickly after he puts his nose into the glue.
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rgatijnet1
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02/07/12 10:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trans Temp Gauge
The Allison on my gasser has the sensor at the torque converter output, which is the hottest point in the system. In the owner's manual, they say to NEVER let the output temperature exceed 350 degrees. Obviously when that happens, they also have a chart for how soon thereafter your fluid should be changed. Even letting your fluid get above 200 degrees shortens the fluid life. IF you reach 350 degrees, you probably have less than 50 miles to get the fluid changed and even then it may be too late. Here is one fluid/mileage chart:
http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.jpg
This is from my Workhorse/Allison chassis guide:
Automatic transmission fluid can provide up to 100,000 miles of service before oxidation occurs under normal operating temperature of 175-180 degrees F. Above normal operating temperatures, the oxidation rate doubles for each 20 degree increase in temperature.
OIL TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT TORQUE CONVERTER OUTLET TO COOLER
350 degrees F is the maximum temperature. This is the normal place to install a temperature gauge or sensor. The temperature at this location will vary significantly with each vehicle start-up or hill. If the temperature reaches 350 F, reduce throttle. To lower the temperature with the transmission in neutral, run the engine at 1,200 RPM for 2-3 minutes to cool the oil. DO NOT allow the converter output temperature to exceed 350 degrees F.
OIL TEMPERATURE MEASURED IN THE SUMP OR OIL PAN
150 degrees F-Minimum operating temperature for continuous operation.
180-200 degrees F-proper oil level checking temperature
200 degrees F-MAXIMUM oil level checking temperature
285 degrees F-Maximum sump/oil pan temperature for a short duration/hill climb
300 degrees F- Metal parts inside transmission begin to warp and distort in varying degrees, seals melt rapidly and transmission fluid life is extremely short due to oxidation.
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rgatijnet1
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02/07/12 10:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
I always figured that if the K&N provided MORE airflow, like they advertise, it seems apparent that this would translate to more of everything getting into the engine....more air and more debris. Good quality OEM filters are not that expensive and for the amount of mileage that most people put on their rigs(less than 5000 per year average) than I find it hard to justify the additional expense for the K&N filter.
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rgatijnet1
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02/07/12 08:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Storing your Class A
I would assume that people that full time in their RV's keep the jacks down all of the time with no adverse affect. I think it is a personal preference and either choice is OK.
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rgatijnet1
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02/07/12 07:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: leveler problem fixed on my own
What you found out is a perfect example of an electrical problem that can happen with any electric system at any time on an RV. These are extremely difficult to diagnose over the phone and not that easy to diagnose in person.
When I repaired shipboard electronic equipment the first thing we would do with a piece of broken equipment is to kick it. If the condition changed with the kick, we were looking for a loose, broken, or corroded connection, rather than a bad electrical component. Kicking a piece of equipment on an RV is not always possible, so to trouble shoot the problem you have to go through all of the steps to determine whether you have a bad connection or a bad component that is causing your problem. The problem with bad connections is that sometimes they will "fix" themselves, which makes the trouble shooting process that much harder. Do you quit looking for the problem when the system works, or do you continue to spend the customer's money while you look for what caused the problem to begin with? Just be thankful that you were not paying a shop $100+ per hour to find the problem and repair your leveler system. Good job.
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rgatijnet1
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02/07/12 07:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trans Temp Gauge
As long as it is consistent and above 150 degrees, it is pretty normal. Extremely cold temps can also affect how long it takes for the fluid to reach the maximum temperature.
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rgatijnet1
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02/07/12 06:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is HD TV That Important
HD is not that important but some of the channels that I get, that are ONLY broadcast in HD with DirecTV, are important to me.
even if its broadcast in HD u can still receive the channel
Well yes and no. Dish Network has channels that you can only receive if you have a HD receiver. Most of there channels you can get with or without a HD receiver but some, like 361 and up, you have to have a HD receiver. Only way I know this is my dad upgraded to HD before I did and kept talking about shows on those channels I could not get until I went to an HD receiver.
That is exactly right. With DirecTV, the Velocity channel(for the Classic car auctions) and a few other channels are ONLY broadcast in HD so if you do not have the HD package and receiver, you cannot receive them.
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rgatijnet1
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02/06/12 10:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Would you Wax your RV?
I have a specific question about washing and waxing. I have a new class A with fiberglass/gel coat and vinyl striping etc (white RV). I use it for two or three days at a time on average about once a month. When not in use, the coach stays in a fully enclosed garage. I have washed it after every trip so far, but would like to give it a good clean before the next trip. It still looks nice and shiny, just want to keep it that way. I have all the equipment to keep my cars in good shape but don't know much about fiberglass/gel coat cleaning.
What is the best product(s) and method to keep this coach looking good?
This works very well and will protect your fiberglass: Boat wax
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rgatijnet1
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02/06/12 10:01am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Would you Wax your RV?
A lot depends on the type and quality of the paint job. Just having a clear coat does not mean that the coach does not need wax. If your coach manufacturer used a good quality urethane base coat/clear coat finish, then wax is not needed. If the manufacturer used a lesser quality or an acrylic base coat/clear coat, then it does need wax protection. My Monaco coach, with aluminum side walls, sits outside in the Florida sun and the most I will do with it is wash it down on a regular basis. If I get some bugs on the front, I will use a fine clay bar to remove them. I have no oxidation and the coach looks like new. If your coach has fiberglass sides, with the gel-coat, it needs wax. Even some fiberglass sidewall coaches, with "full" body paint, have an exposed gel coat, with painted stripes only. These need wax.
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rgatijnet1
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02/06/12 06:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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