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RE: Yamaha 600w mini-generator ????
1. Kipor 2800 watt ...
2. A "no name" clone of some kind 2600 watts ...
3. A Boliy 3300 ...
I think I see the cause of your on-going G problems ... I don't see the names "Yamaha" or "Honda" or "Onan" mentioned. ;)
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pnichols
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05/13/12 05:58pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Warm Springs Reservoir, OR
Some real good info above re rockhounding in the area!
We love SE Oregon exploring but have hardly scratched the surface there. Our last trip was for Sunstones about 25 miles North of Plush in the OR outback.
This site says road access is difficult into Warm Springs Reservoir. I wonder what that means in terms of two wheel drive small Class C access?:
http://aol.research.pdx.edu/?q=lake/535
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pnichols
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05/13/12 08:49am |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Driving in high heat conditions
Too large an opening can result in water circulating too fast and not spending enough time in the radiator to get cooled at higher RPM like when climbing a steep grade. You can end up pumping hot water back into the block.
A very good technical point ... thanks much.
I assume this would especially apply to elimination of the thermostat in the Ford V10 truck engine because it likes high RPM for going up grades at speed under load.
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pnichols
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05/13/12 08:10am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Yamaha 600w mini-generator ????
Add it to a fancy dancy inverter of the Magnum line and it could run a whole passel of things in most RV's, with the inverter using the battery bank to cover surges.
Don, that's an outstanding way of maximizing drycamp energy consumption/utilization efficiency via use of a small generator over long run-time periods to, in effect, make available large amounts of power over short time periods!
I call this "time displacement electrical power conversion".
This is, IMHO, a MUCH better way to use a generator for RV drycamping (than use of only a single too-large generator) as a backup to solar or wind power. Of course having BOTH types of generation capability along in your RV is the ultimate - so you're also covering the need for air conditioning in a flexible go anywhere anytime RV.
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pnichols
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05/13/12 08:06am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Yamaha 600w mini-generator ????
FWIW, here's the small personal heater I was referring to (we have two of them) ... actually a 600W generator would probably run at least three of the them ... note from the specifications that they consume 150 watts on HIGH (I also checked their power consumption during operation and measured about 75 watts on their LOW setting):
http://gadgets.softpedia.com/gadgets/Household-and-Office/sharper-Image-Personal-Heater-636.html
Note that many regular 1500 watt home heaters can be throttled down so a 600 watt generator could run them on reduced power settings. The "throttling down" MUST be implemented on the heaters via electronic modification of the power waveform going into them ... NOT the cheap-implementation way of merely running them on full power but for shorter time periods when set on low settings. ;)
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pnichols
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05/13/12 07:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Yamaha 600w mini-generator ????
Here's some of what our 650 watt four stroke ultra quiet (54dB at full output) Honda EX650 can do when drycamping with our small Class C motorhome so we don't have to fire up the larger, louder, and less economical built-in Onan generator or drain the coach batteries with an inverter:
1) Charge the house batteries for however it takes to do it ... since it is so quiet and uses only about 1/2 gallon of gas every six hours.
2) Run the DW's hairdryer on it's LOW setting.
3) Run the motorhome's vacuum cleaner.
4) Run the combination computer/TV/DVD player.
5) Run both of our 150 watt personal electric heaters at the same time to take the chill off in order to save propane by not running the big propane furnace.
6) Run our 1500 watt electric heater on it's LOW setting.
7) Run our big oscillating 120V fan outside when camping in hot weather.
8) Run our big oscillating 120V fan outside - aimed at the table - to keep the flies or mosquitoes away when eating.
9) Run our motorhome's air conditioner fan on HIGH through it's ducted system to provide air circulation when camping in marginally warm temperatures.
10) Run the crock pot for several hours to slow-cook a stew.
11) Run a heating pad.
12) Run electric blankets/mattress pads.
13) Power the propane furnace's blower (via the converter) on cold days while simultaneously charging the coach batteries instead of the furnace blower draining the coach batteries while keeping warm on cold days.
Small generators, if they're quiet and easy on fuel, can be a valuable asset when camping. However, IMHO a Honda 1000 inverter generator in ECO mode would trump our extremely useful Honda EX650 ... but the EX650 was given to us and it's super reliable ... so we make good use of it as a supplement to the Onan 4000 watt generator.
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pnichols
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05/12/12 07:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Driving in high heat conditions
Tried it just once and now I will never push my MH towing in hot humid temps. And once you have heard that roar of a V10 fan clutch you know she's getting hot.
Desert driving when the heat of the day is all day....I travel at night.
So far after 5 years our V10 powered MH has never overheated. Any grade, any altitude, any temperature. We even sit in shopping center black asphalt parking lots idling in 100+ deg temps with the dash A/C on full bore to cool the coach.
We keep the cab floor area cool when traveling by running the cab A/C in the "MIX" mode.
The V10 is a real delight in scorching weather -> after all the years of overheating Dodge and GMC V8's. Ford got the cooling system right in their V10 truck motor. :)
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pnichols
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05/12/12 01:53pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Driving in high heat conditions
The degree of the thermostat has absolutely nothing to control overheating. It is only the temperature at which it starts to open. Even a 205 stat will be fully open by 210 degrees. After that the condition of the rest of the cooling system dictates, not the opening temperature.
But ... look at a thermostat. It's opening is always smaller than the I.D. of the line it's in. You DO GET more water flow in your cooling system with no thermostat installed in the system at all. This has no down-side in hot weather in older vehicles (like the OP's). Running with no thermostat in older vehicles in cold weather is another matter, however.
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pnichols
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05/12/12 11:25am |
Tech Issues
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RE: What is boondocking and how to do this.
Phil, where is this underwater road?
Dan, it was opening day for the road into Upper Oso campground in the Los Padres NF of South Central CA. The river finally was low enough so RVs could get through. We were amoung the first campers into the campground for the season and had superb fully shaded camp spots under large oak trees. The campground never filled up and we had a whole section of it practically to ourselves, combined with wonderful blue-sky weather. I think the swollen river crossing may have scared many tent campers away.
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pnichols
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05/11/12 11:53pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Paralell 12v Water pumps...?
If it was me, I'd hook the two pumps up in parallel so as to have redundancy always in place. Our water pump failed on an RV trip and it was a big pain.
The flow rate will be nearly doubled. The pressure will remain the same as one pump. The current to operate it will be doubled when in use, but since flow rate is also nearly doubled, the amount of current used will be partially compensated for because you won't have the dual pumps ON as long per use.
For the ultimate in reliable and flexible redundancy, install each pump with valving so you can use either pump separately, or both together in parallel!
Redundancy is priceless on RV trips!
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pnichols
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05/11/12 08:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: What is boondocking and how to do this.
Is this how you get to wet camping?
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd1/tpgnsc/IMG_2151.jpg height=360 width=480
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pnichols
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05/11/12 06:34pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: Boondock Office Essentials Where EVERY WATT COUNTS
How many pencils per gallon equals 6,500 Margaritas per gallon?:
http://www.tailgatorzone.com/features.html
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pnichols
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05/11/12 06:30pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Boondocking pet peeves, I really hate it when...
And then again .... if you want a lot more room and comfort than what a TC can provide out in the middle of nowhere while purist boondocking with no I-hate-its to fret over .... you might want to try a small Class C motorhome on an over-kill Ford E450:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd1/tpgnsc/IMG_0351.jpg height=360 width=480
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd1/tpgnsc/IMG_0466-1.jpg height=360 width=480
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd1/tpgnsc/IMG_2151.jpg height=360 width=480
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pnichols
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05/11/12 04:29pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: RV industry (still) not catching up on quality issues
What "rust" are you talking about?:
- Rust on the stock part of Ford's frame?
- Rust on the part of the Ford frame that Winnebago added for more length?
- Rust on something else that Winnebago added?
My 2005 Itasca (by Winnebago) has some rust underneath on the uncoated Ford supplied chassis components - but so does my GM pickup and so did every other vehicle I've ever owned on their iron/steel undercarriage components. (But rust in these places is of course minimum here in California where road salt is not used.)
There is no rust on the frame extension that Winnebago added. Winnebago coated the extension frame portion that they added.
The step platforms that Winnebago added under the front driver and passenger doors is durable aluminmum - not steel or fiberglass, so they're still like new.
The rear Winnebago-supplied rear bumper is heavily coated steel, so no rust there.
Have you looked elsewhere on your Winnebago for quality?
- Our dual rear tire steel wheel-well liners Winnebago (or Ford) added are coated steel or galvanized ... no rust there.
- My interior drawers all ride on coated steel frames and roller bearings.
- Interior wiring tucked in behind cabinets and walls is all labeled, bundled, and protected heavily with additional sheathing.
- Exterior Winnebago coach wiring tucked up around the Ford frame is soundly secured and protected with additional sheathing.
- All plumbing hose clamps are of course stainless steel.
- The 12V system exterior fuse cabinet is all steel enclosed and painted for fire safety, weather proofness, and ... no rust.
- All exterior storage cabinets (7 of them) are galvanized steel walled and are lined with indoor-outdoor carpeting ... no rust or plastic/fiberglass to crack there.
- No exposed rusted exterior screws so far ... they are all covered/painted or must be galvanized (can't see most of them) ... no rust there so far.
- The roof is heavily insulated for winter/summer temperature control ... about 3 inch thick insulation.
- The interior wall framing is all steel and aluminum ... no wood to maybe eventually crack, rot, or suffer from joint failures.
- Interior cabinets are screwed to the interior wall steel and aluminum framing ... no cabinets to rip loose.
The ONLY "quality" issues I'm aware of on our Winnebago product are:
1) No fancy interior woods or fancy designer counter tops (not desired/necessary anyway in a rugged drycamp/boondock go anywhere RV) ... although most of our interior furniture/cabinetry woods are solid oak.
2) Not a one-piece exterior fiberglass shell ... the roof is a single piece of crowned fiberglass ... but not the walls. An entire one-piece exterior fiberglass shell represents just about the ultimate in RV quality but adds a fortune to an RV's cost structure.
3) Not an aluminum sheathed exterior ... very nice ... except perhaps not so good for a roof material, as rare large-stone hail storms can permanently dent an aluminum roof.
For a $70K (full retail) Class C RV, so far I see "no" significant quality problems in our Winnebago built rig. (knock on wood :) )
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pnichols
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05/11/12 09:10am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Portable Generator Sizing?
We live in a uncertain world with declining infrastructure and increasingly erratic weather patterns.
So, for some increased peace of mind, I'll find room for the larger, heavier 2000.
Very well stated indeed, Mike ... and the perfect argument for always having generator capability along in your RV regardless of any solar capacity you may have and regardless of how large your RV battery bank might be.
However, I'll add this tidbit: Slightly better peace-of-mind insurance would be to instead carry a couple of 1000's along with a parallel kit for them. The probability of two pieces of equipment failing at the same time is way less than the probability of any one piece of equipment failing. If one of the 1000s failed, you still having some 120V AC generating capability left to fall back on.
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pnichols
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05/09/12 10:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: I Wish There Was An Aftermarket product for....
A big and less expensive step forward without resorting to every Class C having to have a fiberglass cap would be:
1) Every Class C manufacturer no longer putting front or side windows in their present cabover designs.
2) Every RV manufacturer and us RV'ers lobbying Congress to exempt RV's from having to have front clearance lights in their present cabover designs.
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pnichols
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05/09/12 10:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Two 6 volt GC Batteries, OR, two type 24 batteries?
CREDIT CARD BALANCE OF ZERO IS KING
Huuuhhh? Not so ... as written.
Here's what's King: "CREDIT CARD BALANCE OF ZERO AT THE END OF EACH MONTH"
i.e. We put a whole bunch of necessities on a CC each month and auto-pay it off each month. One can save as much as 5% on all gas, as much as 3% on all groceries, and as much as 1% on everything else - doing this.
That's what's King (along with AGM batteries). ;)
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pnichols
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05/09/12 10:26pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery Boost ?
One type of solenoid to be used for BOTH intermittent 500 ampere duty, and constant (but much lower amperage) duty?
What single solenoid does this? I mean an affordable one.
Certain of the Trombetta 12V models are for both continuous duty and can handle 600 amps peak inrush inductive current.
The model I used to replace the stock Winnebago El Cheapo coach/chassis interconnect solenoid meets these criteria. I thought that the Trombetta model I used ran a bit warm on case temperature when engaged continuously, so I measured it's case temperature and contacted Trombetta with the results. Their technician said my readings were well within design tolerances.
It's operated 3-4 years to date with narry a miss on supplying 14.XX volts from the alternator to the coach batteries on every engine startup - unlike the piece of junk Winnebago had installed - which sometimes engaged and sometimes did not. I can watch this happen on a voltmeter I mounted on my instrument panel. I wonder how many folks have intermittent interconnect solenoids and don't know it - but wonder why their coach batteries don't last long and/or why their coach batteries never seem to be lively when they reach their campsites after hours of driving.
However, I've never used the cab's boost switch to aid with V10 starting to see if starting currents would burn up the solenoid. I doubt that the solenoid would be affected.
Peace of mind was well worth the $30+ I paid for the Trombetta solenoid back then.
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pnichols
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05/08/12 02:29pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Tires for my Granite Ridge
I'm leaning toward the Bridgestones.
Are those Bridgestones going to be highway tread or mud & snow tread?
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pnichols
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05/08/12 01:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Tires for my Granite Ridge
I'm leaning toward the Bridgestones.
Are those Bridgestones going to be highway tread or mud & snow tread?
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pnichols
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05/08/12 01:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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