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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Bulb help
Thanks for doing the math for me.
I wouldn't think my wiring would have so much resistance as to drop the current consumed by 0.3 amps. The newer bulb has upped the amperage by 0.1 amps according to my monitor.
But I do have it on a ciggy plug, and we all know those are not made to be resistance free.
I will bust out my voltmeter and check the voltage drop.
One thing about the bulbs, all the 10 watt halogen replacements I have found online are 1.25 inches, where my bulbs are almost exactly one inch.
So perhaps these bulbs are not 10 watts, but something less.
The light is certainly brighter at 14.5 compared to 12.6, but not 190% brighter.
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landyacht318
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04/08/12 11:13am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Bulb help
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/wrcsixeight/043copy.jpg width=600
I thought the bulbs were married to the reflector, but realized they can just be pulled out.
Do note I am not very impressed with the build quality of this reflector. The reflector I pulled the good bulb from was not burnt, but the one above clearly has 'some' heat discoloration.
I don't know if this is because I use the light during charging voltages or if it would have occurred at 12.6 too.
Anyway, it's bright and convenient, I have an extra reflector, and can easily change out the bulbs as I need to, as long as the housing does not melt.
MR 16 lights will be acquired at some point in my future. They say the 40 watt LED MR16 equivalents rated at 4 watts, compare more to a 25 watt halogen bulb. That is darn bright for 4 watts.
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landyacht318
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04/07/12 11:15am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Bulb help
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/wrcsixeight/057.jpg width=625
Well, my buddy gave me the other fixture, and the wire' barrels had pulled off the bulb's pins. Pushing them back on the bulb, pushed the bulb from the glue.
:S
Then I removed the blown bulb by just pulling it from the solidified 'Glue'
Then I took the working bulb and exchanged it with the blown bulb. Slid the barrels over the pins,
And can again turn night into day under this tasklight.
Cost of repair: $0.00
A pack of 24 replacement 10 watt bulbs: $8.48.
I did make sure not to get my fingerprints on the new bulb.
I am still considering making a 20 watt halogen, or LED MR16 task/ ambient light with a similar flexible arm on a burly clamp.
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landyacht318
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04/07/12 02:24am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Walmart "Deep Cycle" Batteries - Number of Cycles
That US battery chart is misleading.
By the time even half the amount of cycles claimed expire, the battery capacity would be down to near useless amounts.
Sure it would still be able to cycle, at 5% of it's former capacity.
In July 07, I bought 3 date matched dc 27 Everstarts.
One lasted 13 months of 5 to 20 percent nightly discharges till a cell shorted.
The Second one lasted 23 months till a cell developed super high resistance under sightly more aggressive nightly discharging.
The third was then moved to my engine compartment and was the solo starting battery, isolated each night around sundown, and then paralleled to the house batteries the next day, which then had 130 watts of solar feeding them.
Nearly 5 years later, It Still cranks over my engine on a cool morning, but slowly. The thing never needs water either. It has been years Since I added water. It's been spending an hour a day at 15 volts, and probably 3 hours over 14 on it's way to 15.
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landyacht318
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04/04/12 07:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Which Big Box Stores have Real Deep Cycle Batts?
Google"battery wholesaler" and your area.
Don't know why you are limiting yourself to the big box stores knowing they likely don't carry what you desire.
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landyacht318
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04/03/12 08:09am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Costco Battery Warranty-Auto vs Deep Cycle vs Golf Cart
We all want the best bang for the buck.
And, So does everybody else, merchant especially included.
So If everybody set out to buy a battery that they wanted to kill within a warranty period for a free battery, where does that leave the seller and consumer.
Adversaries who try to give each other 5 finger prostate exams at every opportunity. They'd have the batteries made to the cheapest price point and have the lawyers and bean counters come up with methods to legally deny warranty Miles of small print. The buyer would intentionally abuse the battery in the false knowledge they will get a new one for next to nothing. Then complain if they were caught, and brag if they got away with sticking it to "The Man".
Maybe we are already at and well past that stage. Who here hasn't continuously undercharged a wally world marine battery to a premature death in the knowledge they have a warranty?
Didn't they stop warrantying marine/"deep cycle" batteries for a while in certain areas, and now shortened them everywhere?
Buy the product designed for the task and don't exasperate the problem of poor quality batteries designed to last the warranty period and a day and no more.
This "Beating the system" mentality leads to no good, long or short term, but is certainly prevalent enough that it is all too easy to write off, since everybody's doing it and act almost like it is the right thing to do.
I've been guilty of it, and a victim of it, and now when I want to buy something quality, guess what, they now make it in India or China and rely on their formerly good name and formerly good product to sell a now substandard product built by wage slaves in the third world, all so the CEO's trophy wives and mistresses can wear more diamonds and pretend they are indeed a true Cinderella.
Sorry for the rant.
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landyacht318
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04/01/12 02:48am |
Tech Issues
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RE: engine problems
Dodge B van specific forums will be your friend through this.
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=278
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-ram-van-100/
Good luck
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landyacht318
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03/30/12 12:52pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Bulb help
Thanks for the link.
The Mr16 bulb info allowed the research to begin. The 16 refers to 16 eighths of an inch, or a 2 inch Diameter. MR11's are also available.
I am not sure if my current fixture utilizes halogen bulbs. I was assuming it did because it simply is very bright considering it consumes only 1.1 amps.
Here is a photo I just took.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/wrcsixeight/012copy-2.jpg width=640
The openings in my light are 2 1/8" and could accept a 2 & 15/32" tall bulb before sticking beyond the flat face surface, so a standard MR16 bulb will fit within, but I am not sure how I will attach them within the light, nor grab the pins.
I have also noted some heat distortion on the plastic reflector and warping of the plastic surface diffractor. I never added ventilation holes to the oak, and no doubt that helped lead to the shorter bulb life. That and my schumacher's 15v+ charging voltages :)
Looking at he LED offerings in this size, I am no longer taking them off the table. I think a 20 watt halogen and a 6 watt LED side by side, separately switched will make quite a task light and aimed at my white ceiling, as it is right now with only one bulb working, makes an excellent ambient light. The 20 watt halogen might be overkill too.
While these mr16 bulbs say 12 volts, some say ac or dc, and some others don't say either. I want to assume a 12 volt light means it will work on DC too.
Well the research continues. More input welcome as well.
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landyacht318
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03/29/12 07:07pm |
Tech Issues
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Bulb help
In December I made a task light using some projectors a friend had given me years ago.
At the time I noticed the bulbs were not easily replaceable but continued the build anyway.
I Am hoping one of you recognizes the fixture, and knows what type of bulb is used in these.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/wrcsixeight/009jpghalogen.jpg width=600
I really thought they were halogen bulbs but am not so sure anymore. Two 10 watt bulbs would draw more than 1.1 amps right?
This fixture drew 1.1 amps at 12.8 volts when both lights worked, now half that.
Also it appears the bulbs are held in with some type of glue. Must be some high temperature stuff as the fixture gets hot.
Anyway this spotlight/ tasklight worked great, until one bulb burnt out. It is super bright with a concentrated beam and I could clamp it nearly anywhere, plug it into any of my 6 ciggy plug receptacles aim it where needed and turn night into day.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/wrcsixeight/clamplight.jpg width=450
And Now I want to get some replacement bulbs, and do not know what to get that will fit this fixture, project properly and stay in place.
Not looking for LED's or trying to adapt this light to accept a different projector. I want to get a new bulb inside this projector, or get the same exact projector and modify it to fit the custom oak housing like I did to this one.
your assistance appreciated
If better pictures and dimensions of the bulbs themselves are needed they can be provided but I was hoping someone recognized the projector and could point me in the right direction.
Thanks
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landyacht318
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03/28/12 11:10pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Help - Norcold 12V vibrates the TT
Sounds like we have the same fridge. Pun intended.
When I first installed mine it was attached to the cabinet with screws. I could be 15 feet from the Van and know it was running.
Now hold downs, and the cabinet and fridge are floating on a foam and rubber cushion, isolated as best I can from any solid structure. The cabinet is lined with layers of sound dampening insulation. The compressor itself is now on rubber feet isolated from the box itself.
Much improvement, but still louder than I like. best improvement was just making sure it was not solidly attached to the cabinet so it could transmit vibrations to the whole vehicle
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landyacht318
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03/17/12 06:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Adding another solar panel
It took 4 days between the time I removed my charge controller and then flipped on the circuit breaker with new wiring and an additional panel.
Man did is suck not having any charging going on during sunny days, but also to not have the battery monitor hooked up made me realize how often I look at it. I really felt lost without it, and just looking at my voltmeter was a joke in comparison.
This is only day 2, but I got to say the amps in cloudy, or morning conditions are up well over 50%. At 9:30 this morning, I saw 8.6 amps into the batteries. I am really seeing a higher conversion from the Mppt than before. Before, Typically, around noon I would see 6.9 amps in, 7.6 out, now. Now at a hazy skied 11:00 AM I am seeing 7.7 amps in, 9.9 amps out.
I wonder how much of this conversion increase is due to thicker wiring and how much due to the extra panel.
I really think these 2 panels are playing very nicely together.
What a shame Unisolar is no longer making these panels.
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landyacht318
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03/15/12 12:00pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Adding another solar panel
Okay, Unisolar installed and wired. The KYC 130 tm has 19 feet of new 8 awg cable, and the Unisolar 68 watt panel has 20 feet of 10 awg connected at the Charge controller.
1 foot of 4 awg cable from CC to (+)Buss stud, 1 foot of 4 awg cable from CC(-) to Shunt. 2.5 feet of 2 awg wire between shunt/stud and battery posts.
Today there were some thin high clouds. This is what my monitor was reading around noon today.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/wrcsixeight/115amps-Copy.jpg width=350
Works for me. Adding less than 50% more watts, and upgrading the wiring have given me more than 50% more amps into my batteries
I'm happy. My batteries will be happier.
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landyacht318
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03/14/12 11:13pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Standed in Class B Update- Now with video, any ideas?
I have been in touch with the OP.
The problem was the fuel pump. The new one installed in Tenessee was either defective or not installed correctly, but a second new pump installed in NM fixed the issue.
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landyacht318
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03/14/12 11:02pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step 1 on the way to solar, upgrade batteries
ABC in Escondido gets Crown batteries, rips off the labels and puts on their own.
I got some 12v DC's Crowns shoehorned into my compartment
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landyacht318
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03/11/12 11:37am |
Tech Issues
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RE: fulltimer modifications
I have the mattress pad in question. It works well. Mine is the twin size.
It pulls 6.2 amps when it is on. It cycles on and off according to the thermostat setting and ambient temperature.
While I have fallen asleep with it set to 7(max) I woke up a few hours later totally and overwhelmingly overheated.
It is nice to turn it up to 7 about 2 hours before climbing into bed, then crawling onto 110 degree mattress and covers, then turn it way way down.
I have found it to use 18 to 30 amp hours per night's sleep. I have a amp hour counting battery monitor.
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landyacht318
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03/03/12 07:13pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: fusing between solar panel and charge controller
I will be adding a second panel. Having the fuse in there might not be needed, but I like to be able to remove it first when removing or servicing the panel or it's wiring, but honestly have only done so a handful of times in 5 years.
The quick disconnect I seek must be able to fit through the hole on the junction box. I only need a single connector. Do the Anderson power poles allow just a single connector? Will it fit through the opening on my junction box, which i believe is 7/8 of an inch?
The panel I will be adding, a Unisolar 68 watt laminate says not to disconnect the mc3 connectors while under load as it will damage the panel. I've certainly disconnected the Kyocera while under load, pretty much every time I've removed it.
Will doing so to the unisolar blow the diodes or something?
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landyacht318
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03/03/12 11:26am |
Tech Issues
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fusing between solar panel and charge controller
I have a big juicy Junction Box on my Kyocera 130 Tm panel. Since the original install in 10/07, I have had an ATC 15 amp fuse inside this JB.
I also installed a quick disconnect fitting on the (+) so If i want to remove the panel, no wire cutting is involved.
Now, very soon I plan on running new 8 awg cable frm KYC 130TM to BS SB 2512i. I have a new 8 awg Maxi use holder, which I plan(ned) on using, with a 20 amp fuse inside my Junction box Which, BTW, is the smallest maxi Fuse available as far as I know
I occasionally remove the panel entirely. The fuse and quick disconnect has been very convenient.
Now, I have new 8 awg cable ready to be installed. But unless I cut off a bunch of strands to fit the 8awg, into a 10 awg fully insulated quick disconnect, I have not yet found the product which allows me fuses at both ends of the solar .
Am I taking the fusing between the panel and charge controller too far?
There is no fusing between panel and controller when the only methods are MC3 or MC4 cables right?
Should I bother?
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landyacht318
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03/03/12 01:05am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery Switch Studs
Sweet.
I am however going to run a separate shielded lead from the solar charge controller to the house batteries in an attempt to reduce the Electrical noise my controller emits.
It makes my stereo buzz/hum when the Mp3 player is charging while playing music, and channel 6 analog on my tv to have large amounts of diagonal lines and other static. AM radio too. Ferrite chokes have helped slightly.
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landyacht318
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02/29/12 11:02pm |
Tech Issues
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Battery Switch Studs
Do any of you foresee any issues with using the studs on a Battery switch (Batt1/Batt2/ Both/Off) as a positive Buss?
I wouldn't be stacking more than 3 ring terminals on any one stud. Plenty of room
Doing so would reduce the number of connectors/connections on my system.
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landyacht318
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02/29/12 09:04pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: New Batteries, Charger acts much differently.(update)
I'm not crawling in that cabinet tonight :)
I was just surprised it decided to do the high 15v blast tonight rather than last night. There was enough sun and driving today to keep them topped all day.
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landyacht318
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02/25/12 10:22pm |
Tech Issues
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