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My solution for the dreaded fogged dual pane window.
My two front side windows (the fixed panes on the
drivers and passengers side that you need to look through to use the rear view mirrors got bad enough I couldn't see the mirrors. I decided to try my own fix and see how it worked, I figured I had nothing to lose, if it didn't work then I would have to bite the bullet and pay for suncoast designs or a local glass company to fix/replace them for me.
First off, I am not concerned with having dual pane
windows, we don't use the motorhome in the extreme cold, so the insulating issue is not important to me.
Here is my "cheap", yet effective solution. I simply broke the interior pane. It worked great. I put duct tape over the
entire window. I then used a hammer and a nail punch to break/shatter the glass. I started off with a very light strike with the hammer and continually hit it harder and harder until it finally broke/shattered (it is pretty amazing how hard you have to hit it to break the glass). The glass simply "spidered" the entire pane.
I then poked out a little area of glass (square inch or so) which seams to weaken the entire structure of the pane. After that, you just peel the duct tape off and the majority of the glass shards come off stuck to the tape. After that I used a small screwdriver to dig/pry all the little pieces of broken glass out of the
channel that the pane was in (this was the most time consuming part of the job, it probably took about a half hour per pane). Oh yea, I put a drop cloth below the window that caught the majority of the glass that did not stick to the duck tape.
After completely cleaning everything up, I applied a nice thick bead of silicon caulk/adhesive in the channel where the glass was. The outer pane is very secure without the inner pane (it sits in its own channel).
There was no "etching" on the glass at all. The drivers side window has probably been "fogged" for 3 years now, and the passenger side for about 2 years now. Again, no etching, I just cleaned off the moisture/residue and they are crystal clear.
Sorry, I did not take any pictures, but as you can tell, the procedure was pretty straight forward. A cheap alternative to the current fixes on the market, and you won't ever have to worry about the window fogging again.
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kplender
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02/20/12 05:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Furnace fan "growling", how to replace?
Took my 1997 Bounder out for a drive today (finally had a nice Saturday here in Denver). I started the generator and ran all the components (AC/Frig/Furnace, etc.). The rear furnace blower fan is "growling". Sounds like the bearings are probably going bad. Question, how do you go about replacing the fan? The furnace itself appears to be held into the motorhome by 4 screws. After removing the 4 screws, will the furnace unit simply slide out? How is the propane line secured to the unit, is it a flex line? Does the furnace have to be removed to replace the fan, or can you do it while the unit is still in the motorhome? If you have tackled this project (either replacing a fan, or perhaps the whole unit), any assistance/tips you could give me on how this is done would be great. Thanks in advance!!
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kplender
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02/18/12 06:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Back up monitor not working
When I parked my 1997 Bounder last fall, the backup monitor was working fine. However, took it for a drive today and it is not working. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting this? Is there a fuse/breaker perhaps? Not sure how to proceed from here. Any suggestions/ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance!!
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kplender
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02/18/12 06:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Best way to break tempered glass?
I have the dreaded "fogged window" problem on my 1997 Bounder. Unfortunately, it is the driver side window and is impairing vision through the rear view mirror. I am going to simply break one of the panes in the double pane window and clean up the fogging. My question is, what do you think would be the best way to do this without breaking both panes. I read that someone tried to drill through a pane and it broke to pieces and that worked. I thought about simply using a hammer and an awl and gently strike it until the glass shatters. Anyway, just looking for feedback and suggestions. Thanks in advance!!
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kplender
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02/18/12 06:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1995 Bounder Starter Question
Odds are it is not the starter or the solenoid. There is a relay located between the ignition and the starter that is typically the culprit for this problem. This is a well known problem on the late 90's F53 chassis. Follow the cable/wire from the starter up to the ignition, between the two you will find a relay. Sorry, I don't know the part number for this, but it has been discussed many times in this forum and others have provided the part number, pictures of what it looks like, etc. Also, when I was having the same problem on my 1997 Bounder F53, I only had to run a new/additional "ground" cable on my chassis battery, and that fixed the problem. This should be a relatively "cheap" fix as I think the relay is about $10.00 or so, and a battery cable should only be about $10.00 or so, if needed.
Oh, I found a previous thread on this, check it out here:
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24479736/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm
Good Luck!!
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kplender
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08/09/11 04:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Where to find 50 Amp fuse for slide?
If the breaker is tripped, how do you reset it? Just push the button in with your finger? Or do you have to use something small that fits in the hole where the button is?
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kplender
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06/13/11 10:51am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Where to find 50 Amp fuse for slide?
I have a 1997 Bounder on the F53 chassis (if that makes a difference, probably not). Anyway under the front hood there is a fuse that says it is a 50 Amp for the EZ Glide Expandable Room. On the fuse itself it says:
Short Stop
50A 12V
I checked at Camping World and they had no idea what I was talking about :-(. Any idea where I can pick up a new one? Thanks in advance!!
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kplender
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06/13/11 10:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New Tires for 1997 F53 with tag
I also have a 1997 F53 with tag. I replaced the Michelin XPS Ribs with Cooper SRM II Radial LT's. They are an excellent tire and I noticed no difference whatsoever between the XPS and SRM II other than the difference in cost. I replaced all the tires on the rear axles (I had already replaced the front tires with another set of XPS Ribs), got them from Discount Tire, and if I remember right, they were $900.00 mounted and balanced (that's for 6 tires so about $150.00 each).
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kplender
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05/31/11 12:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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