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RE: Towed electric cord
I put a piece self adhesive hook velcro on the tow bar and the wrap another piece of nonadhesive pile velcro around both the power cord and the safety breakaway cable. Holds them up nicely and no parts to loose.
kdk
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kdk
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05/24/12 06:58am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Headlights very dim...
Another option is to convert them to "HID". Just google HID covertion kits and get a cup coffee for some reading. Just make sure you get a quality kit from a reputable dealer. Did my (dim) 60mm projection lights a couple of years ago and never use the brights any more.
KDK
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kdk
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05/08/12 08:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: goodyear tires
Topflite51: What Moisheh said would happen to be true! I will give you my side of Goodyears customer support. At 6000 miles my G670's started rivering and I called Goodyear about this. They stated there was not a problem with the tires but a MH problem. I googled "goodyear rivering" and came up with hundreds of threads on this subject however. Granted not everyone is having this problem, but for those of us that are it is real and after changing tire brands no more problem. They told me to get a front end alignment, balance and to rotate them front to rear. The alignment shop said it was within specs. and then had the tires dismounted and rotated to the rear. Now at 34000 miles all 6 tires are rivering and the front have broken through the outside tread and causing flat spots with a shimmy in the steering wheel(tires are still in good ballance). I called Goodyear customer service and again was told it was my MH's problem. I asked them about the many cutomer complaints about this issue and they again denied any knowledge of this problem, but however after a long conversation they said a district rep. would contact me!
Great I'm finally getting somewhere. That was last fall and I'm STILL waiting for that rep to call!!! So much for customer care.
Having new Michelin XZA3+ put on next week. KDK
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kdk
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05/08/12 08:12am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Residential Frig changeover
I may be mistaken but I believe most late model MH's charge the house batteries from the engine driven alternator while engine is running. Then the house batteries would remain filly charged while feeding 12 volts to the inverter to keep the refer running. Newer refers are much more efficient and better insulated drawing much less wattage per day then in the past. I can't prove this but I was told Samsung has stated their refrers will operate fine on a modified sine wave inverter.
Blessings, KDK
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kdk
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04/22/12 06:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Duraceramic flooring upgrade
Last year I installed Armstrong "Alterna" which is very similar to Durastone which I also considered. After a lot of research I chose the Alterna and installed it myself. Pretty big job and a bit pricey but really love it. The drawback to using it is that it required a 3/16 plywood sub-floor installed first as the adhesive was not compatible with OSB sub-flooring. Can be cut with a razor knife by scribing and snapping, tin snips, coping saw or band saw, can also be installed with or with out grout. I installed with grout ( which is not supposed to crack )in the MH and without grout in our stick house. I prefer the grout best for appearance. Has not cracked, chipped or scratched after over a year. Traveled from Florida to Michigan and back twice and lived in for for 10 months. I installed it in a diagonal pattern to avoid the bowling ally look which was a bit more work but looks beautiful and wears well. Armstrong provides a 25 wear warranty but don't have any knowledge of customer care as I have not had any problems.
Blessings KDK
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kdk
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04/19/12 02:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Residential Refrigerator
Sansung has said their refers will run OK on a modified sine wave inverter and will not void the warranty when installing in an RV. I will install a dedicated inverter anyway just to be safe but again not required when I install mine this summer. A counter depth will fit through the side door or through the drivers side window with no problem. Also I saw many different manufacturers of refers (Maytag, Frigidaire,GE,LG and Whirlpool) installed as OEM equipment at the Tampa RV show. I'm sure they all did not have dedicated pure sine wave inverters, may be wrong I was once before.
Blessings from a mission trip in Mozambique Africa!
kdk
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kdk
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04/05/12 01:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Winne-will not start
I agree with allot of what is being said here, however it has been my experience that even tho you can here the pump run if it's not putting out the correct pressure (around 21 psi for throttle body and 42 psi for multiport injection think) the injectors will not spray properly. An inexpensive in line fuel pressure gauge that is hooked right at the line going into the throttle body will tell allot here and end the guessing and let you know when and how much pressure you do have.
Another thought and I don't know if this applies in your case, but if your engine has a camshaft position sensor (tells the computer when to fire the injector) it could also be causing a problem. If my memory is correct the camshaft controls injection and crankshaft position sensor controls ignition.
Blessings; KDK
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kdk
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02/13/12 07:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replaced a 32" Plasma TV with a 40" LED
Zmotorsports; When I replaced my 26" flat screen with a 37" lcd I had a sheet metal shop fabricate a heavy gauge sheet metal pan similar to a cookie sheet pan only with 1 1/2" sides. Drilled holes to match up with the factory mounting on the back of the tv. These mounting holes are not in just plastic but through into the aluminum tv frame and also reinforce the pan with some fender washers. This pan was made to fit perfectly between the two side cabinets. I had excess to the back side so I could mount the pan with several screws through the side of the pan into the cabinets. Then mounted the tv. If you have any questions PM me.
Blessings KDK
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kdk
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02/10/12 08:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replaced a 32" Plasma TV with a 40" LED
sorry double post
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kdk
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02/10/12 08:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Windows in Motorhome Almost Impossible to Slide Open
Try spraying some silicone on the window track. This has worked for me in the past.
Blessings KDK
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kdk
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02/10/12 08:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Looking for Accuride 22.5 x 8.25 wheel
Call Visone auto mart at 606-843-9889 or google them. They are an Rv salvage yard and surely they will have it. Not the cheapest place on earth but when you need it they have it. Also try googling rv salvage and get a cup of coffee and a comfortable seat because you are in for some reading.
Good luck,.
Blessings KDK
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kdk
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02/09/12 02:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trans Temp Gauge
On my Allison 3000 trans. which is in a 2006 Holiday Rambler the sensor is mounted in output line to the trans cooler right at the transmission. From the factory the gauge seldom left the cold mark. Had the temp. sender replaced 3 times and the gauge replaced 4 times under warranty. Still didn't fix the problem. My Alladin junior would read 180' to 190'. but the gauge still be on cold. The technician would power brake it for a minute or so and then the gauge would move a little but still on cold. I was not satisfied with this so I did some research and found out the sending unit was manufactured by VDO gauges and it was a 400 degree sending unit from the factory. I figured that my trans would reach to high a temp before the gauge would read hot that the the trans was ruined. Looked on VDO's web sight and found they made a 300' sender that was the same thread. Installed it and now my trans and water gauges pretty well marry up in movement compared to the Alladin digital read out. Now with a reading on the Alladin reading 180' the gauge is at the 11 to 11:30 position. The 300' sending unit was about $10. Hope this helps.
Blessings; KDK
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kdk
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02/07/12 01:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Aux. brake system roll call.
I use the Roadmaster pneumatic system and can really feel the difference in braking. Tried towing without it and that scared me. Easy hookup and it is truly proportional. Also comes with emergency breakaway. Can also be transferred to another vehicle. Please don't tow without an auxiliary breaking device or without a breakaway. Some states require one and some don't. As said earlier I surely wouldn't want to live with the conscience of some one being either killed or injured because I tried to skimp on a few dollars. KDK
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kdk
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01/10/12 03:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Slide-out Nylon bushing supports
If you can't locate the OEM part, I would suggest having a local machine shop make some for you out of Delrin instead of nylon. I have used Delrin in machine manufacturing in replacing slow turning sprockets and guides for slides with very good success. It doesn't wear or deform like nylon does under stress. If you are handy with tools maybe you can purchase some Delrin sheet from Grainger or a local plastic supply house and make them yourself. You can saw it on a table or band saw and drill and tap it.
Blessings and Merry Christmas; KDK
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kdk
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12/18/11 08:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Duo Therm 15000 btu Airconditioner
I can hear the compressor start and run, after 2-3 seconds the compressor acts like it is overloading and then shuts off. If I wait a few minutes and restart the same thing happens. Because it will initially start I kind of ruled out the capacitors. The voltage to the MH is 122 volts and the rear A/C is running fine. Leaving tomorrow morning to go home for Christmas leaving the MH in FL. I will try swapping the capacitors when we get back after Christmas. If anybody has any other thoughts please let me know.
Blessings; Keith
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kdk
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12/13/11 04:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Duo Therm 15000 btu Airconditioner
I have an 06 Holiday Rambler with Duo therm a/c that has a problem. When turning it on from the control center and after the allotted delay time the fan will start then a second or two later the compressor will start. So far all is good, but 2 to 3 seconds later the compressor sounds as if is laboring then kicks off. The fan continues to run but the compressor will not come back on without turning the entire system off then restarting. I'm pretty handy at troubleshooting but don't have a clue as to where to begin. I at first thought about starting capacitors but then it wouldn't have started to begin with, so does anybody have any ideas?
Thanks in advance, I love this forum but never thought I would be using for myself!
Merry Christmas Y'all and God Bless KDK
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kdk
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12/13/11 12:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dead toad battery, anyway to charge it from the motorhome?
I realize this doesn't address you immediate problem but after getting your toad started you will probably find that your auxiliary braking system is drawing to much current and you will have this problem again in the future. There is a device you can install on your toad called "Toad Charge" made by the same company that makes the Trik-L-Start that will keep your toad battery charged while towing. Easy install and it monitors your toad battery voltage and when necessary lets the MH alternator charge the toad battery until a preset voltage is reached at which time it disconnects the circuit. It has a lot of safety features built in. I installed one in about one hours time, about a year ago and have never had another problem. Cost a little over a $100 bucks but worth it. Just Google it for more info. Blessings KDK
PS: I just looked and RV Upgrades has them $92.
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kdk
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12/07/11 05:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RV Depreciation
One thing to consider is that RV'ing is a way of "Life". Don't let depreciation or maintenance cost rob you of this experience. kdk
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kdk
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11/28/11 09:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Air Suspension Pressure ???
Not being critical here but it's not a good idea to air up your system using a shop air supply to your motor home air system. Your MH compressor has both a particulate filter and a air drier in it's system. You could possibly be introducing contaminates and moisture into your air system. Just a word of caution. kdk
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kdk
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11/17/11 06:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Float vs Full Charge
Larry; There are 3 levels of charging and they should be set up according to the type of battery you have. If you have lead acid (wet cell), then the first stage is called "Bulk Charge" where the charge current is maximum until the battery voltage reaches 14.6 volts. Then it goes into "Absorption Charge" where the charge current tapers off in order to maintain the bulk voltage (14.6 volts) setting, again this determined by the battery type and size. At the end of absorption time (determined by battery bank size), the charger reduces the charge voltage setting 13.4 volts. After 4 hours of steady voltage of 13.4 volts the charger goes into "Battery Full or Full Charge state reading". You will seldom see this as things are being turn on and off without you even knowing it, example water pump running, water heater coming on(again even in ac mode the controls are still DC, lights being turned on, electric steps going in or out, even when you have your refer set to AC it still consumes 12 volt DC current for the controls.
I hope this helps a little and if you have any questions PM me. Keith
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kdk
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11/07/11 08:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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