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RE: E450 Vacuum Distributor Replacement
Vacuum Dist is part of the Heat/Vent/AirCondition (HVAC) system. The modes of Defrost, Heat, Vent, AC etc are set by vacuum.
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j-d
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05/25/12 11:40am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Where is the Chalet???
This Outfit sells lots of used Chalets. You can look at a few floorplans.
If you enter their rental area, you can get virtual tours, perhaps of additional models.
I like Chalets. First of all they ARE a Winnebago, which overall is a good product line. They're also spec'd for utility not eye candy.
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j-d
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05/24/12 09:23pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Bias Tires Issues
Yes, you "drive them round" every day. We had a 1-ton Dodge van with 8.00/16.5 bias nylon tires on it years ago. Three guys couldn't push it out of the garage. After we replaced them with steel belted radials, I could push it out alone. The bias took a "set" (aka flat spot) on the contact patch where it was parked.
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j-d
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05/24/12 06:56pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Jayco owners
On our cheapie '03 Escapade, tanks are open/under like jcsb's and have heater pads, switch in the bathroom.
We have the IOTA converter and it does not boil the battery. We have but one battery and I don't have to add water for months at a time. We can leave the coach plugged in with battery/converter ON without much worry. But I only do that when the coach is "up" for use, like fridge/propane detector ON. I don't leave it with battery on but nothing else on.
We're not original owners, but I'm pretty sure the IOTA does not have an optional anything connected to it to help control the charge.
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j-d
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05/24/12 05:27am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Speed control
We had problems with the tail lamps and replaced them with new Bargman LED lamp assemblies. There are LED conversion modules from Bargman, but a full set of them adds up to more than the price of whole lamp. And they still depend on the sockets. If corrosion's nagging you, might be time to upgrade.
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j-d
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05/23/12 08:30pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 30 amp and 50 amp electric question
Our C is 30A at 125VAC. I carry a 30A to 20A adapter, a meter, and an "outlet tester" that confirms polarity and ground. Any time I'm not sure an outlet is working properly (which is most of the time) I check the outlet before even backing in.
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j-d
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05/23/12 04:33pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Jayco Melbourne 28F UVW
What you want is more likely on a large label inside some cabinet door. But remember the number are ESTIMATED, based on the plans for the coach and its options.
Weighing one (actually THE one you're interested in) is the only true answer. Doing that, driving one to a CAT scale location (truck stop), moving company, etc. and weighing it, is really a good idea. Many have lopsided weight distribution, overloaded axle (usually rear) or underloaded (usually front). Underloaded front contributes to handling problems.
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j-d
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05/22/12 06:53am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Helpful vendors or scam artists?
But we can't ignore every one of these warnings. We were on a trip towing a boat with our one-ton van. Stopped for gas at a station that was also a shop. Somebody came out and said we had a big bulge on an inside tire sidewall.
We did.
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j-d
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05/20/12 09:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Ford vs Chevy
Ford Pickup and the Class A F-53 get the 362HP Three-Valve V10. The E-series gets the Two-Valve V10 with 305 or 310HP and a little less torque.
Chevy, still branded as Workhorse? I don't know, but Ford has shown a long term commitmnet to building RV chassis. GM not so much. They're out there, but I don't know what the "dealer" support is for the GM-based chassis.
Beyond that, this Ford owner would consider GM in this choice. Now that they have the 4500 chassis. Their GVWR (gross vehicle weight) and GCWR (vehicled and towed weight combined) wasn't competitive but now it is.
GM offers better ride, handling, and cab room.
See which transmission is in the GM. With Ford, you get their front line TorqShift. The Allison is GM's top unit but not every unit with the top engine got the top transmission. GM's come up with some six-speeds that might be competitive, but the TorqShift (5R115) tops some of the GM HydraMatics.
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j-d
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05/20/12 05:50am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Cleaning the ground connection of Kwikee Steps
Miles is so right! Funny (all the way to Nasty) things can happen when you leave the power on.
And it's worse with STEPS. If there's power available and you do something to activate the system, they move faster than you'd think and with enough force for a very bad pinch accident.
I've found the ball/socket joint at one end of the crank from motor/gearbox to the steps to be a major source of binding in the steps. I don't understand exactly how the steps figure out when to stop on extend or retract. It isn't simply limit switches, seems to sense the load on the motor, so if the load matches what it'd be at either end of travel, motor doesn't run. That's good when you open the door near a curb or the like. Step'll go as far as it can then just stop. Won't reverse or keep straining. But if it's bound tight at the motor, it won't move and you may think it doesn't have power (or ground).
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j-d
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05/18/12 06:05am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Atwood Water Heater Need to Drain?
The plastic Atwood plug is inexpensive and a little fragile. Makes having a spare a good idea.
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j-d
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05/18/12 05:19am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Something crawled into the engine compartment and died!!!
What Ron said. Just get a piece of vacuum hose with an inside diameter that's a snug fit over the cut tubing. Put it on and BAM!: permanent repair.
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j-d
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05/16/12 10:44am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: can't fill freshwater tank
Those two tubes are no doubt the Low Point drains for the Hot and the Cold water plumbing. We don't happen to have a low point drain for the water heater. Rather, I take the Anode Rod/Drain Plug out. That's what our Suburban water heater uses. If it's an Atwood water heater then it's just a plastic plug.
Anyhow, there should be little stop valves above those drain tubes. I just wonder if the shop disturbed any other valves.
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j-d
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05/16/12 10:38am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Bilstein Shocks/Steering Damper
Saf-T-Plus is a Damper AND a Centering Device using Coil Springs. Other vendors, like RoadMaster, have a similar device. SteerSafe is Centering with Springs ONLY. OEM Ford, Monroe, and probably Bilstein are Dampers (horizontal shock absorbers) ONLY.
So sure, I'd suggest Saf-T-Plus over a damper-only device too.
SafetySteer PLUS a Bilstein Damper would accomplish about what S-T-P does in one device.
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j-d
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05/13/12 11:05am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Battery Drain
All I can figure is some accessory that's normally "house" (and turned off when you use the house battery disconnect) is wired to the chassis. Either that or something wrong with chassis.
We had an old 1984 Class C that didn't even have a house battery disconnect. But it also didn't have an LPG detector. Anyhow, it could sit for months without discharging the house or chassis battery.
Current RV (Signature...) has a battery disconnect and when I shut the house battery off, that coach can sit a couple months and both batteries stay up.
So I suggest you pursue this under warranty if you're sure you shut everything off.
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j-d
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05/12/12 07:52pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Work Needed...Recommendation Appreciated...
Agreed. I was a fan of On-The-Car balancing, but few if any seem to do it anymore.
Yet, I still doubt we'd feel the effect of changing valve stems. I guess it'd take a study to prove/disprove it.
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j-d
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05/12/12 07:40pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Work Needed...Recommendation Appreciated...
From a theoretical/perfectionist standpoint, YES. However: I don't think that the added weight of front stems would affect the front balance noticeably. The rear stems are a good deal heavier, but they mount 180* opposite each other so my thinking is they'd offset each other. Besides, the weight is in at the rims, not out in the tire, maybe at the tread. I've always thought the Tire was what gets out of balance, much more than the Wheel.
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j-d
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05/12/12 07:19pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Work Needed...Recommendation Appreciated...
Mike, Is there anyone who might help you install these stems "at home?"
I ask because Chuck points out that you do NOT have to remove tires from rims to install these valves. He doesn't say specifically, but it seems to me that one side of the tire must be "broken down" from its rim on the side with the tire valve.
Then the front valve goes in place through the hole from the inside, and washers/nut on the outside, right? Then the rears are the opposite. Namely, threaded end of the stem passes through from the outside and washers/nut go on the inside with LocTite, Correct?
An OP here said he installed his custom stems at home by removing the wheels, putting them under the coach (one at a time) and used his bottle jack to break them down at the stems, by jacking with the base of the jack on the tire at the bead, and "lifting" the coach with the top of the jack. That gave the access he needed.
I was fortunate, I guess. Took my wheels off and carted them to the Auto Skills Center at the Navy base. I left them the wheels, the stems, the instructions and LocTite, plus a sheet telling them what I wanted installed where. They apparently followed instructions well. Job's held up for a year. The installation, balancing, and dismount/flip/remount of two cost a total of $60.
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j-d
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05/12/12 04:07pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: manifold leak!!!!!!
I first tried tying the bracket up with rope or wire, forget which, but poking something in the bolt hole was easier and kept it closer to being lined up for reassembly. Drywall screw's better than say a nail because its threads snag the bolt threads making it less likely to slide out.
I've repaired a lot of those little Ford alternators. Bearings, brushes and rectifier bridge was all it usually took. That's if it's a back-wired one where the charge wire's held with a nut and the small wires push onto threaded studs. The side-terminal versions weren't much good.
Flowmaster used to have 3" mandrel-formed "cat-back" single exhaust sytems with their massive "Big Block II" muffler and designed for Ford Class Cs. There was a model for the late 80s through 91 and another for 92 and up 460s. I made the late 80s model fit my early 80s coach and really liked it. I stayed with the OEM manifolds that I had resurfaced, OEM crossover, and used the 3" extension pipe for longer wheelbase to make up the length for the cat converter it didn't have. I learned about it here on RV.net and it was a great tip.
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j-d
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05/11/12 08:06pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Pretty much dead in the water, need help badly :(
Your unit has a number of "Solenoids:"
1. Road Engine Starter
2. Emergency Start/Boost
3. House Battery Disconnect
4. Generator Starter
I think of "Solenoid" as the venerable Delco type that powers the starter motor AND mechanically throws the Starter Drive into engagement with the flywheel. On a Ford chassis, the "Solenoids" are what I call Heavy Duty Relays. They pull a low current coil and contacts to complete the high current circuit to whatever the "Load" is. Starter Motor, House Circuits, etc.
If this was mine, I'd test both Chassis and House batteries, then go through all the primary connections. Battery terminals, ground cables, etc.
It's possible for a factory-made battery cable to go "open" inside a terminal that doesn't appear corroded or burned. Do you know how to do a Voltage Drop Test? You take a DC voltmeter, set to a low scale like 12VDC, 20VDC etc. To test a battery cable, you might press one probe onto the battery post itself, not even the terminal. Then the other probe onto where the opposite end of the cable attaches. Have somebody apply the Load, like cranking the road engine or generator. There should be essentially NO voltage reading shown. If there IS a voltage shown, that means that the amount read out on the meter is being lost in that cable and/or its connections.
This Linkshould help.
Since the Generator's "Solenoid" is only a Relay, the Starter has to spin its Drive into the Flywheel on its own RPM. If it's an ONAN "KY" type genny, they're notorious for starter drive sticking. Either not releasing from the flywheel or not engaging it. Low voltage makes all that more likely.
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j-d
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05/11/12 05:59pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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