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RE: 30/50 AMP Service
Perhaps I am not reading this post the same as others, …… I see two questions and I don’t see both answers being yes or absolutely.
The Two Questions
If I fire up the GEN it will run the REST of the trailer, Microwave, second AC, central Vac… ?
Once I switch over to a 50 AMP service will this fix my issues and allow me to run everything ?
“If I fire up the GEN it will run the rest of the trailer, Microwave, second AC, central Vac. ------ “ I think that this answer would be NO as in most units, there is an automatic transfer switch so when the generator is started, the land line is disconnected and then EVERYTHING would be running off or the generator.
““Once I switch over to a 50 AMP service will this fix my issues and allow me to run everything?” ” ----- I think that this answer would be YES as this was how your unit was designed.
I think this is a good answer...and to expand a bit...you can run loads up to about 30 amps from your existing outlet. What can you run "at the same time?" If you don't have an on-board amp draw meter to monitor your "demand" real time...you can easily determine your amp demand by making a chart up showing what your varying appliances draw...for instance:
(these are just made up figures...check your owners manuals or equipment label for actual amp demands)
AC: 13 amps
Refer: 5 amps
Vac: 12 amps
TV: 5 amps
Lights: 1-4 amps each
Furnace blower: 8 amps
If you know what your equipment draws...you know what you can run at the same time on any given supply circuit.
This knowledge is CRITICAL if your in a older campground with limited site supply. We recently stayed at a park with 20 amp service....ran an AC, microwave, electric H20 heater, vacume...the list goes on. The key was we did not run them at the same time...but during the heat wave of recent...20amps and some knowledge carried the day!
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f.wernlein
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08/07/11 07:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: One or two roof airs???
My extended family has a range of RV's...mostly mid size to 40'. I've been on/slept on many of them over the decades.
For an RV of that size you simply must consider the full range of conditions you might encounter...you possibly could get buy with one AC...but factor in a hot summer, no shade, or running all day and setting up camp with a hot trailer...and you'll regret not getting two AC's.
On my 33' MH...one AC does it fine most of the time...but the last few weeks when we were out in "the heat wave" - thank god I have two!
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f.wernlein
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08/03/11 06:22am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: RV Park Sewer Drain - Do You Hook Up And Forget??????
"...all that stands between you and sewer gas is the P-traps in your sinks and shower..."
This is correct...and it works both on an RV and my house just fine.
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f.wernlein
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08/03/11 06:13am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Now I am really confused, 2011 Jeep towing.
I started a topic a few days ago about towing my 2011 jeep wrangler 4 down and whether or not to leave the key in the ACC position or not.
Many stated not to leave it in because there is no steering lock on the 2011's.
I had to go to the dealer today for some minor work and asked the service mgr what is the right way. hE MADE A CALL TO CHRYSLER JEEP AND THEY INFORMED HIM THAT THE 2011 WRANGLER DOES HAVE A STEERING WHEEL LOCK but it does take almost a full turn of the steering wheel before it does lock. SO HE SAID THAT THE KEY SHOULD BE LEFT IN THE ACC POSITION WHEN TOWING 4 DOWN.
any comments???
Comment #1: towing per the manual, per the advice of the dealer, is fine. You will have no issues and be fine towing.
Comment #2: I have an 09 Wrangler...and towed as #1 for about a year. Then discovered from several infomation sources that Jeep has stopped the use of a lock...and there was no service notice, or change to the manual at the time. I have towed since with the key out. No issues, no problems and all this makes towing a Wrangler the easiest tow I think on the planet. I did check myself and confirmed by function test that in fact I have no lock.
Comment #3: YOU should satisfy youself as to the lock. Until YOU KNOW one way or the other on YOUR jeep...you are not going to be happy...jack the front up with the key out and spin the wheel...if you find out you DO have a lock...please let us all know.
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f.wernlein
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07/30/11 12:05pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Rebonding rear dashboard mounting studs
For most materials...try two part epoxy (such as JB Weld)you can build up and provide some extra support arouind the studs. Check the packaging for specific applications. Sand and clean the surfaces near the stud to provide a better grip.
I would also suggest that no matter what you do...it will never be as strong typically as the OEM installation...and that failed...so, think also of adding additonal securing methods the complement the OEM fittings - think of materials that might work: velcro, hidden tee-nuts and the like.
Things like this you only want to fix once.
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f.wernlein
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05/31/11 11:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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