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RE: PowerGear electric jack issues
P.s. be sure to look at the last page or two, I posted how I recently used a spray on rubber to seal up my jacks motor and complete gear box. After I did this I went driving in the pouring rain and so far everything has been great.
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daytripper63
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05/15/12 08:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: PowerGear electric jack issues
Hello everyone,
Well I'm still having problems with the jacks on our 07 Discovery 39-V
A while back I had posted about the problems we were having and a few other people wrote in and said they were having the same issues. I guess the secret is, you have to pull the boot off the jack, remove the brake assy, clean it up, reinstall and seal around the boot to keep any water out.
A member here sent me a link for a PDF file showing how to disassemble the unit on the PowerGear web site. My question is,, what do you use to clean up the brake ?
Vic
Vic, that was probably me, you can use wd40 to clean it out but be sure to get it all out. Here is a link to a bunch of info, granted there is 50 pages of post but if you weed through the fluff you can get a ton of great info that will ensure you wont have anymore jack problems http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/power-gear-jack-problem-53137.html
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daytripper63
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05/15/12 08:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Floor Plan - TV Placement
Look at the Fleetwood 40X floor plan front kitchen mid living area
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daytripper63
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05/15/12 08:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Air system loss
I have a 2009 Itasca Meridian m/h om a freightliner chass and the front and rear air bags deflate after sitting at home for a couple of days. Is this normal or is there a problem. If so the fix???
No it is not normal to deflate that fast, Mine have maintained pressure for months. A while back it would leak and took it to freightliner and they took care of it under warranty, the quick connect hose connections had a few leaks.
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daytripper63
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04/11/12 09:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel Cost calculator
mine's easier to use:
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc10/Daveinet/Misc/carfuelgauge.jpg
200.00 barely gets me a half tank
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daytripper63
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04/03/12 11:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Freightliner service in Sacramento region
We have a 2003 Allegro Bus motorhome that is on a Freightliner chassis. We have an electrical problem where the Instrument lights come on momentarily when we turn on the head light switch and then they go dark because the fuse for the dash lights blows.
I've tried as best I can to find the cause of the short and had no luck. I've called Sacramento truck center and talked to their RV division representative and he sounded kind of surley.
Has anyone dealt with them and are they good people to deal with?
Does anyone have any other suggestions in the Sacramento area of someone they recommend to find an electrical problem witha a dash board.
I have been going to Sacramento truck for a few years now and they have done a great job, I have no problems whatsoever recommending them
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks! - Eric -
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daytripper63
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03/25/12 07:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bio-diesel... any issues with using this fuel?
A trucker at Love's told me that he is ok with running bio-diesel in warmer temperatures, but not in cold weather. He said it can clog the filters in cooler weather.
Sounds like it's best to avoid the stuff if at all possible. I may avoid Love's in future if that's what they limit their diesel offerings to.
If you have a newer motor that is "approved" to run B5 I would not try to avoid it, the lubrication properties of bio B5 are FAR FAR superior to ULSD at the pumps today, the better lubrication properties of B5 will help the life of your injectors and pumps in the new HPCR diesels. If you are in a very cold area it would probably not be a bad idea to not buy it in the winter months but the rest of the time would be fine.
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daytripper63
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03/20/12 10:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Anti-nunting?
OMG...what were our ancient ancestors thinking 17,000 years ago when they drew this on a cave wall in what is now "The Cave of Lascaux" in France?!
Shame on them!
http://www.theartfairy.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/cave-art-hunters1-300x255.jpg height=250 width=250
Thanks I needed a good laugh
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daytripper63
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03/18/12 08:33pm |
Good Sam Club
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RE: air conditioner
I have a stand alone air conditioner.I would like to route the exhaust somewhere other than a window.Anyone have any ideas.
If you have a stand alone portable a/c then it is most likely a 9000 or 12000 btu model. How big of a motorhome are you trying to cool?
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daytripper63
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03/06/12 10:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: TracVision R5/R4 in Motion Satelite
Mine is factory set for Directv and I just plugged in a reciever from my house and let the kvh find it's signal and it was ready to watch tv
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daytripper63
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03/04/12 12:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2 or 3 air conditioners in a 41' DP
I have 2 in a 40 and sometimes wish I had a 3rd
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daytripper63
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03/02/12 10:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cost of diesel
Actually...they had some pretty cool motorhomes in 1977!
Jimmy Carter was President,
http://fellowshipofminds.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/jimmy-carter.jpg?w=500 height=120 width=120
a new house averaged $55,000.00, average income was $13,500.00, gas was .62 gallon, .82 for a dozen eggs and 1.68 would buy a gallon of milk!
1977 GMC Motorhome
http://www.thebar-b-que.us/ForSale/Motorhome/IMAGE_062.jpg height=200 width=200
The GMC motorhome brings back memories, I also remember there was one in the movie STRIPES with Bill Murray
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daytripper63
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02/12/12 05:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Cost of diesel
I am sitting her watching Smokey and the Bandit(1977) I just saw a Diesel fuel sign that said .47 cents per gallon, just thinking I could fill up my motorhome for $47.00 back then vs $400.00 today.
You know I think I like how things were back then although the motorhomes weren't as nice.
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daytripper63
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02/11/12 09:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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TST and their TPMS system
I purchased the TST (Truck system technologies) tire pressure monitoring system in the last year and it has worked great, but on one of my trips last summer I pulled over and heard a very faint buzzing coming from the monitor, apparently it was the high pressure alarm but I could not hear it going down the road and could barely hear it even after pulling over. So I called customer service at TST last Monday and mailed the monitor back to them and yesterday it is already back, they tested and sent me a new unit.
Fast and great customer service from them.
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daytripper63
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01/31/12 12:23pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is there a good book for camp grounds in So Cal?
Edit: I Mis read your post
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daytripper63
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01/20/12 11:02pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Sleep Number bed-Roll call
Our coach had one in it when we bought it new and the wife and I liked it so much we bought one for our house as well.
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daytripper63
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01/06/12 06:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Changing from electric to hydralic auto levelers
Mitymo is referring to Powergear ELECTRIC jacks which were introduced in approx 2007 and yes they have had there share of problems. With that said, Mitymo if you are just a little bit mechanical and would like to save some money and get your powergear jacks working properly I can help you fix them. I also have these jacks and have learned that the majority of shops and dealers are clueless when it comes to diagnosing so I took mine apart to see what makes them tick. If I had to guess the jack that is giving you the fault code most often is the passenger side rear. The rear jacks are right behind the inner rear dual wheel and the mud/splash guard is only behind the outer wheel and the jack has fully exposed to all road/rain water, debris etc and there is only a thin rubber boot over the electric jack motor. If you park on top of some 2x6's it will give you some room to get under the coach.
Too everyone with powergear jacks, the jacks are very simple to work on if you are just remotely mechanical you should not have any problem doing what I am about to say, the biggest problem with power gear jacks is the jack motors for the rear jacks are right behind the rear wheels and the mud flap ends just beside the jack so all water you drive thru rain etc gets thrown up on the jack motor which only has a small rubber boot slipped over the bottom of the motor for protection, this rubber boot usually either leaks or has holes in it from road debris, this can also happen to the front assembly although the rear seems to be the biggest problem. If you get under the motorhome and remove the rubber boot over the jack motor look for water or signs of water or rust and inspect the boot for holes. Now look at the jack motor, you will see 4 phillips head screws with pinch levers on the bottom, this is the motor brake on the base of the motor, try to pinch them together, most likely they will be stuck. Take picture if you have a camera phone so if you have any doubts during reassembly you will have a reference, now remove the 4 screws and the motor brake will hang by 2 small wires, look at the top of the hanging brake assembly and you will see 4 more screws, (Again take a picture) remove the screws and the plate holding the brake disc in will come off and the brake disc will come out. You will see how simple this brake really is and its hard to believe it is actually a brake. Look inside and clean out any water or rust then reassemble being careful not to pinch the 2 wires when bolting motor brake back to the motor and after reattaching motor brake and pinch levers try to pinch the levers together again to make sure the motor brake will release. I have heard some people use wd40 to clean out the brake assembly but I just use a rag. Before reinstalling the rubber boot, check for holes and then use silicone sealer around the top lip of the boot to prevent water from getting into the boot in the future plus while your at it, silicone seal all the jack motor boots. Also if you are getting a alarm at your display panel saying a jack is down but when you look they are all up already, DO NOT PUSH THE RETRACT ALL JACKS BUTTON, you run the risk of breaking the jack motor sheer pins, you must first reset the display, unstick the jack that the panel says is at fault. Then override the display panel and manually lower each jack a few inches or get underneath and manually lower each jack a few inches, but remember you must first fix the motor brake at which ever jack is giving the fault code.
To everyone out there with Powergear jacks who have no problems and want to keep it that way I suggest you put a silicone seal around the top of the rubber boots on all 4 jacks to prevent water from getting into the boot. I have found that the majority of rv shops are clueless about the power gear electric jacks and that is why many of us had continued problems, since I and many others have done what I listed above our jacks have operated flawlessly.
Hear is a link to a bunch of powergear PDF files so you can see everything you did and did not want to know about your electric jacks.
http://www.powergearus.com/tech-docs?part=PS-12&bypart=Find+Docs
P.S. When you find the technical documents on your system and jacks print them so you will have htem when you need them.
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daytripper63
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12/25/11 08:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Best Place To Buy Tow Bar?
One more for craigslist, I picked up a falcon 2 for less than half price
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daytripper63
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12/24/11 10:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: WHEN TO VISIT UTAH OREGON AND NORTHERN CALI
This is a great event in Moab Utah every year that is happening the first week of April 2012 http://www.rr4w.com/pageview.aspx?id=16382
I went to Zion and Bryce canyon last year in April and the weather was fine
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daytripper63
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12/22/11 08:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New to Class A Pusher - Questions
I've owned a TT in the past so the general RV stuff is pretty familiar. However, we just purchased an '08 Fleetwood Discovery 40X. I've done my research on this board and on the web and would like to pose a few "pusher newbee" questions prior to taking delivery this weekend. The coach has the 350 Cummins 6.7 with 6 speed Allison transmission. Here goes...
1. What type of oil does it require? I assume you should have a few quarts around - just in case. What about the transmission fluid? Anything else?
2. Do the coach batteries charge while driving down the road - if not being used? We have a solar panel, but just curious... If not being changed by the panels, does the inverter get involved?
3. On hill decent, is it better to use the exhaust brake first, then down shift the transmission - or vice versa?
I know these may sem like silly questions for you seasoned veterans. I drove humvees, 5 tons and LVS vehicles in the USMC, but that was years ago and we didn't have the "you break it - you buy it" policy in the corps. Thanks.
I know you did not ask about this but since you have an 08 like mine you will need to know this, Too everyone with powergear jacks, the jacks are very simple to work on if you are just remotely mechanical you should not have any problem doing what I am about to say, the biggest problem with power gear jacks is the jack motors for the rear jacks are right behind the rear wheels and the mud flap ends just beside the jack so all water you drive thru rain etc gets thrown up on the jack motor which only has a small rubber boot slipped over the bottom of the motor for protection, this rubber boot usually either leaks or has holes in it from road debris, this can also happen to the front assembly although the rear seems to be the biggest problem. If you get under the motorhome and remove the rubber boot over the jack motor you will see 4 phillips head screws holding it on, take picture if you have a camera phone so if you have any doubts during reassembly you will have a reference, now remove the 4 screws and the motor brake will hang by 2 small wires, look at the top of the hanging brake assembly and you will see 4 more screws, remove them and the plate holding the brake disc in will come off and the brake disc will come out. You will see how simple this brake really is and its hard to believe it is actually a brake. Look inside and clean out any water or rust then reassemble being careful not to pinch the 2 wires when bolting motor brake back to the motor and before reinstalling the rubber boot, check for holes and then use silicone sealer around the top lip of the boot to prevent water from getting into the boot in the future. Also if you are getting a alarm at your display panel saying a jack is down but when you look they are all up already, DO NOT PUSH THE RETRACT ALL JACKS BUTTON, you run the risk of breaking the jack motor sheer pins, you must first either override the display panel and manually lower each jack a few inches or get underneath and manually lower each jack a few inches but first fix the motor brake at which ever jack is giving the fault code.
To everyone out there with Powergear jacks who have no problems and want to keep it that way I suggest you put a silicone seal around the top of the rubber boots on all 4 jacks to prevent water from getting into the boot. I have found that the majority of rv shops are clueless about the power gear electric jacks and that is why many of us had continued problems, since I and many others have done what I listed above our jacks have operated flawlessly.
Hear is a link to a bunch of powergear PDF files so you can see everything you did and did not want to know about your electric jacks.
http://www.powergearus.com/tech-docs?part=PS-12&bypart=Find+Docs
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daytripper63
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12/21/11 08:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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