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Forum
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RE: Opinions needed - repair or live with it
Are they installed from the bottom up or top town? I always thought on trailers the siding started at the top and went down.
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daystrom
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05/08/12 06:46pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Opinions needed - repair or live with it
Wow, I guess I am surprised that 100% of the answers are fix it.
I DO plan on fixing the molding so I guess my question is is it worth the trouble to have the dent fixed? The way I think of it, once I fix the molding, the dent will look like a basketball hit it. It's the size of a fist. The skin is so thin that it is bound to get dinged eventually, either from road hazards or kids.
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daystrom
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05/08/12 05:29pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Opinions needed - repair or live with it
Just wondering where I could have potential leaks from the current damage? As it sits now, all the voids in the molding have been sealed with proflex.
My thought was to replace the molding with the same part.
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daystrom
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05/08/12 05:13pm |
Travel Trailers
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Opinions needed - repair or live with it
This is my trailer, a 2012 Crossroads Zinger purchased almost exactly one year ago.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EGr8sd72h2k/TZ-MfpfCpFI/AAAAAAAAFw0/DhBEnV_bidI/s400/IMG_1210.JPG
The other day I took the corner into my driveway a little too short and the rear passenger side clipped my neighbor's mirror on his car.
I have a small dent in the aluminum skin and a mangled up corner molding.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hjNECAKQTYM/T6WxZLPSzqI/AAAAAAAAIxk/LZBMLWAgV8U/s400/20120505_155423.jpg
That photo is post-repair to close it up. There was no damage under the skin or to the structure. The mirror was on a Neon and broke off easily. The black marks polished off easily from the aluminum.
There's also a small crease in the rear skin at the bottom.
I've contacted my insurance company to estimate the damages.
In order for the dent the be repaired on the side, the following would need to be removed:
Rear luggage doorawningentry doorfurnace ventbaggage door27' of siding
The rear piece would need the ladder and water heater removed along with two corner moldings.
I'm guessing the damage will be a lot since there is a lot of labor involved, just to fix a dent and crease.
I'm debating whether or not to have it fixed because for one, there's a lot to disassemble with new potentials for future problems and I'll be without the trailer for a while.
My thoughts are to see what the insurance adjuster comes back with, taking that and asking for an appearance allowance in lieu of the full settlement. Unfortunatly I have a lien holder so any settlement would go to the bank or body shop.
I just want to fix that corner molding and smooth out the dent. A lot easier for me to do this than to have a body shop spend hours of time to replace the skin.
What do you think? Sound like something an insurance company would be willing to do? What would you do?
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daystrom
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05/08/12 04:58pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Molding damage
Never thought of that. I actually have two places to check... my dealer and a small RV repair shop not too far away who I am sure will have it in stock.
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daystrom
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05/06/12 07:14am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Molding damage
What about the color. All the ones I have seen online are white. My trailer is a champagne color.
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daystrom
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05/05/12 08:06pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Molding damage
Thanks for that tip on the sealant.
That was the first thing I did after bending everything back into a somewhat strait line. Filled the gaps with clear proflex. Was looking at online sources for moldings. The problem is shipping. Mine is about 8'6" long. UPS's limit is 8' so anything over that is shipped freight at probably $$$.
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daystrom
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05/05/12 07:23pm |
Travel Trailers
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Molding damage
Had a small boo boo turning into my drive today with trailer in tow. The back end of the trailer swung and took off the mirror of the neighbors car. He was cool about it and have an adjuster coming out Monday to cut him a check.
Trailer had minor damage to the skin and a bent up corner molding.
The dents I don't care about and I was able to polish the scrapes out.
Is there an online resource for the corner molding or would my local RV dealer be a better source?
Is that piece called a corner molding?
Thanks!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hjNECAKQTYM/T6WxZLPSzqI/AAAAAAAAIxc/zfK_6UIA3-M/s640/20120505_155423.jpg
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daystrom
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05/05/12 05:10pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: E-Stone Countertops - Please weigh in - Good or Bad ?
E-Stone actually recommends a product called Countertop Magic to remove the scratches. I have yet to try it - seems like just a furniture polish that fills them in however.
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daystrom
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05/01/12 09:48am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: E-Stone Countertops - Please weigh in - Good or Bad ?
Since it's not real stone, it doesn't way any more than a normal countertop.
Here's a pic of the counter in our Zinger. The table top is the same material...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J-yavZmga-8/TZ-M8Pq-AnI/AAAAAAAAGFs/z9b0GH-tuPg/s640/IMG_1207.JPG
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daystrom
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05/01/12 07:37am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: E-Stone Countertops - Please weigh in - Good or Bad ?
We have e-stone in our Zinger. The counter top and table top look really nice.
Yes they scratch easily but furniture polish seems to hide all but the deepest ones.
No problem with cracks in the cold. That's the first I've heard of that.
As long as you are careful about what you drag across the counter top, I think the e-stone is worth it.
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daystrom
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05/01/12 05:14am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: RV.NET slow to load
Fast too! Must have listened to me and reindexed and compressed the database :)
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daystrom
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04/29/12 06:36pm |
Travel Trailers
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Which Equal-i-zer?
Weighed my tongue today using the bathroom scale method. Weighed in at 1054 lbs and that was loaded up with two full tanks of LP, battery, and the front of the trailer loaded with what we would normally take.
Using the calculator at Equal-i-zer's web site putting in a guesstimated* GTW of 7200 lbs, actual TW of 1054 and 100 lbs in the bed of the truck behind the rear axle, it recommended a 14,000lb/1,400 hitch.
By my calculations I should have closer to 1200 lbs on the tongue. Would using the 1,400 lb hitch be too stiffly sprung for my application?
Thanks!
Todd
* The trailer was weighed at the factory at 6138 lbs which didn't include LP, or battery. There are no other dealer installed options. 1000 lbs of stuff seems to be a good guess of what we have packed.
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daystrom
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04/29/12 03:19pm |
Towing
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RE: RV.NET slow to load
I think the database that runs the forums needs to be re-indexed and compressed. All the different portals use the same backend database. This seems to happen every once in a while.
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daystrom
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04/29/12 07:57am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: New Andersen WD hitch
mrad,
After using both the Equalizer and Andersen and only considering the tow quality / anti-sway control, which is the better hitch?
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daystrom
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04/28/12 09:17am |
Towing
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RE: Equal-i-zer, Reese Dual Cam, or Andersen No Sway?
Thanks for all the comments. I've decided to get the Equalizer. Just have to get the tongue weighed for the right sized bars.
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daystrom
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04/27/12 05:53am |
Towing
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RE: Equal-i-zer, Reese Dual Cam, or Andersen No Sway?
Based on the Equal-i-zer, should I go with 1200 lb bars or 1400 lb bars? Equal-i-zer's web page has a calculator to determine which bars to get. When I plug in my numbers it recommends the 1400 lb bars.
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daystrom
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04/24/12 10:06am |
Towing
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RE: Equal-i-zer, Reese Dual Cam, or Andersen No Sway?
Did Crossroads change the 2013 model 26BH? Their web site lists dry weight at 6818 and TW at 841 pounds. Very easy to add 200 pounds of TW to that.
Their weights seem to be all over on their brochures. I'm going by the sticker inside one of my cabinets. While touring the factory they showed us how they are weighed before being shipped. So the weight is accurate minus our stuff, LP, battery, & hitch.
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daystrom
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04/24/12 09:16am |
Towing
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RE: JAYCO TOTAL DISMANTLE
I too would have it sent back and fixed.
I had a Jayco highwall popup back in '05. The thing was never right. The roof constantly rubbed the walls while towing abrading them, the roof had a hole in it from the factory (they covered it with caulk). Dealer tried to fix all the problems numerous times and never could.
Jayco stepped in and had the trailer shipped back to the factor during the winter. They had it for about 4 weeks. It came back like brand new.
They recambered the frame, fixed the walls, and replaced the roof. They did a fantastic job on it. Just wish it had been built that way to begin with!
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daystrom
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04/23/12 04:34pm |
Travel Trailers
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Equal-i-zer, Reese Dual Cam, or Andersen No Sway?
I need a new hitch. My current trunion bar and single friction sway control bar just isn't up to par with my new TV & TT. I have good WD but my sway control is inadequate. Wind gusts keep me constantly correcting the ride and my family gets sea sick from the constant movement.
Trailer as weighed at the factory before shipping is 6140 lbs. No dealer installed accessories. I guesstimate that our ready to camp weight is close to 7000 lbs with 1000 lbs on the hitch.
Based on this I would need a 12,000 GTW/1200 TW hitch.
I'm looking for the best sway control under $550. I suppose I could buy a second friction sway control bar and be done hoping that is enough but I'd rather do it right with a whole new hitch setup.
Out of the Equal-i-zer, Reese DC, or Andersen No Sway, which is going to give me the best sway control?
Thanks!
Todd
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daystrom
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04/23/12 11:01am |
Towing
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