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RE: tongue weight for class IV hitch
While my estimate was certainly something of a WAG, I based it somewhat on the fact that my current TT has a dry hitch weight of 520 and a loaded weight of 680. Not apples to apples but both Northwood products which have the FW tanks over the axles and the holding tanks behind the axles so they don't change the hitch weight too much. My present TT has two 30lb propane tanks and two Trojan 105's on the tongue.
If the difference is around 30% the 1060 dry weight could be around 1300. Need to find some one with an Arctic Fox 30U and see what they have for a tongue weight.
You're right, if I go with that TT I might well be looking at a class V hitch.
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canoe on top
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03/29/12 07:20pm |
Travel Trailers
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tongue weight for class IV hitch
I have an '06 Ram 2500, CTD with a tow rating of 12,950. I am looking at getting a bigger TT with a dry tongue weight of 1060. I figure real tongue weight will be 1200-1300. I'm also looking at an Equalizer 1400/14,000 hitch. I currently have the 1000/10,000 Equal-i-zer and have been very happy with it.
My question: I am reading that the max weight rating for a class IV hitch is 1000/10,000. Total TT weight will be less than 10,000 but, how many of you are running more than 1000 lbs. tongue weight on a class IV hitch?
I know there were some problems with GM hitches but haven't read anything about Dodge? The obvious answer is 1000/10,000 but, the owner's manual does not say, "12,950 but not with the hitch that comes on the truck." It just says 12,950 and to have the tongue weight be between 10 and 15% of the weight of the trailer.
My gut feeling is that I could go 12-1300 tongue weight with the class IV and, I am sure many do. I would rather not have to buy a class V hitch but do wonder where the,"breaking", point, (pun intended), is.
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canoe on top
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03/29/12 05:31pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Cracked injector line on 5.9 CTD
What about,"Loctite", on the bracket bolt? Does everyone do that? Since the Cummins is such a Beast, I have felt, (though I knew better) that it was almost indestructable. All things mechanical break. Reality enters.
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canoe on top
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03/27/12 10:49am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Cracked injector line on 5.9 CTD
Thanks for the replies. Guess I better have a look at my water pump as well?
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canoe on top
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03/26/12 10:05pm |
Tow Vehicles
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Cracked injector line on 5.9 CTD
Stopped at a highway intersection and smelled diesel fuel. Pulled through intersection and still smell was very strong. Stopped and opened the hood and fuel was spraying all over the engine compartment.
Got towed to Dodge dealer and when I described the symptoms the service writer said, "cracked number four injector line. I think I have the part in stock."
He said there is a bracket that holds the line and, if the nut on the bracket comes loose, the line will vibrate enough to crack. He had me back on the road in two hours of less.
The way he nailed it, I would guess he has encountered this problem before. Anybody else had a similar problem? I forgot to ask him if the put locktite on the nut. I looked and there are more than one bracket for injector lines. Thinking I might put locktite on all the nuts. Maybe even double nut them? I guess I should check them regularly. Had the oil changed about a week before. It would appear that checking those nuts is not part of the check out they do.
Edit;the truck is a 2006 with about 85,000 miles.
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canoe on top
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03/22/12 09:55pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Our tires look like new, but...
The consensus on here and with tire manufacturers seems to be five to seven years as a reasonable lifetime for tires, wear or not. The tire age issue was recently addressed in a column by, "The Car Guys" in which I thought they had a pretty good explanation. They compared a tire to a rubber band which you throw in a drawer and pull out a couple of years later and it is no longer elastic. That explains it as well as all the technical stuff about per centage of strength loss per year, the fact that RV tires don't get used often enough to circulate the natural oils and all that stuff. Rubber just deteriorates with age.
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canoe on top
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03/06/12 09:01am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Sleeping in your car - ventilation?
Cars are not air tight. Do you always keep a window cracked for ventilation if you drive eight or ten hours?
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canoe on top
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03/04/12 08:53pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Propane issue
Had a similar problem with a class C some years ago. I would bet you have some moisture in your regulator. It will freeze at night and work fine during the day. In my experience, the stove would work but the furnace would not. Difficult to diagnose because everything would work fine at the dealer in the shop. The repair involved running the propane tank empty and purging with air and alcohol and replacing the regulator. Hope that helps.
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canoe on top
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03/02/12 07:35am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: New Tires For Small TT Heading to Alaska
The load rating doesn't matter much if you run over a nail. A spare is a very good idea.
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canoe on top
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02/06/12 07:45pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Carrying Spare Parts - Alaska Bound
Michelle,
First, I am sorry for your loss and admire your spirit to get up and keep going.
I have driven to Alaska and the Yukon twice. First time with a Jeep and pop up and the second with a Dodge diesel and a 24' Nash TT. Had my dog with me both times and recommend it. Get shot records etc. My Vet filled out a certificate for crossing the border.
I was told to consider carrying an extra spring but didn't and didn't need one. Carried two spares for the TT and never used either. Both trips I traveled up the Dempster Highway from the Yukon into the Northwest Territories.
The Dempster isn't for everyone. 450 miles, unpaved and then you have to turn around and come back but, you do go 200 miles north of the arctic circle. Pretty amazing scenery.
The Alaska Highway is a good, two lane highway. The roughest section I encountered was between Haines Junction and Tok. The afore mentioned frost heaves. Go slow and they shouldn't bother you. Some are marked and some are not. I made the mistake of driving 50mph through that section and replaced both axles when I got to Whitehorse. Had I been more prudent, the axle replacement would not have been necessary. I didn't break any springs.
There are RV repair places along the way. Sometimes, it is quite a distance between towns but, you will have the advantage of fellow travelers so, worst case scenario, should something happen to one of your rigs so that it could no longer be towed, someone could drive you to town to get parts and/or a repair person. I think that would be a rare occasion.
Get a, "Milepost", travel guide. When you ge tto Prince George, you have the choice of going east through Dawson Creek or west and up the Cassiar Highway. I usually go later in the year, (August when the bugs aren't so bad),and go up one way and come back the other. I think they are about equal to Whitehorse.
For you, I might come back the Cassiar as later in the summer, it is worth the short detour to Stewart/Hyder to see the bears.
I agree with the other posters who say you can't anticipate what might break and carry enough parts for any and every emergency. As they said, get your rig checked out, make sure everything is in good working order and go have a great time. Travel safely, Jim
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canoe on top
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01/31/12 11:27pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: New TT, Old Equal-i-zer
I think Ron Gratz makes a good point about bars that are too stiff and stress. Call the Equal-i-zer tech guys and, also, the people at Rockwood. That should eliminate all the guess work.
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canoe on top
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01/21/12 05:21pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: New TT, Old Equal-i-zer
I would think you can use your present hitch and lessen the tension on the bars. When I bought mine, I was near the change point at around 700lbs. Called the factory and the guy I talked to said go with the heavier set up, (1000/10,000). He said you can lesson the tension on the heavier bars but you can't make the smaller ones carry more.
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canoe on top
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01/20/12 10:46pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: changing out all 4 tires--sequence?
If you decide to let the tire shop do it, be sure you watch. They like to put a jack in the center of the axle to lift it which is a goood way to bend your axle. Make them jack using the frame or, at least, the spring mounting plate under the axle.
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canoe on top
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01/10/12 12:25pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Stupid and dangerous?
You could fly and let him take the cats.
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canoe on top
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12/30/11 07:39pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Lift a travel trailer so it sits a few inches higher?
The surface area of the front of a TT does not change by raising it. You might have a bit more above the TV but, you might have a bit less below. I have noticed no difference in drag, (mileage), or stability after a lift. This appears to be the case with many on the forum who have done it as well. Each combination is going to be somewhat different but a lot of people have done this without problems.
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canoe on top
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12/28/11 12:34pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: winter camping
Eycom, X2
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canoe on top
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12/09/11 01:44pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: double pane windows
JBarca, My TT is in storage so, I can't get a picture right away. In all the years I've been on this forum, I've never pursued the process for posting a photo. Probably should?
My factory storm windows have metal frames and a foam strip to form a seal between the storm window and the metal window frame. They attach with plastic L shape clips that you can purchase at places like Home Depot.
The ones I made for the motor home were from sheets of lucite, (I think it was). I cut it to the same size as the window frame and put adhesive backed foam strips around the edges to form a seal. You can cut lucite like glass by scoring it and then breaking it along the score. I attached them with brass mirror clips. That was in the mid-90's when I made them for the MH. They weren't too hard to make and made a big difference in comfort.
The factory made are certainly nicer but, more expensive by quite a lot. Next time I am out at the TT, I will take some pictures and try to post them.
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canoe on top
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12/07/11 12:41pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: TT Recommendations
Another vote for Northwood, Arctic Fox/Nash. My Nash with a lift has very good clearance and a factory installed Onan, LP generator. I have the 22GQ which is 23 1/2 ft. long which makes it very maneuverable with not too much overhang. This is a four season trailer, (mine has factory storm windows), and is very rugged and well built. I have taken it on many unpaved roads and used it in winter with temps of -5 and been very comfortable with the water system fully operative.
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canoe on top
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12/06/11 04:49pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 2002 Arctic Fox Specs
2007 brochure shows 28' length and 940 dry hitch weight. 7280 gross dry weight and 10,800 GVW. Arctic Fox is a very good trailer.
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canoe on top
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12/06/11 04:40pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: double pane windows
Arctic Fox and Nash also have available factory made storm windows which I have on my Nash 22GQ. They do make a difference in heat loss, (quite a bit more dead air space than a double pane window), and also make a big difference in evening out the temperature in the trailer. They make a big difference in eliminating hot and cold spots. I had a class A in the 90's which we used a lot in the winter. I made storm windows for it using clear plastic sheets purchased a Home Depot. They made a very noticable difference in how much the furnace ran and how consistant the temp was throughout the unit.
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canoe on top
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12/05/11 12:58pm |
Travel Trailers
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