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 > Your search for posts made by 'cannesdo' found 7 matches.

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RE: Annnnd...the furnace is out. (Suburban SF-35)

Problem solved. Ground wire on the gas valve was pulled out. Those are on so tight. How that worked its way lose while I was *sitting still* I will never know. No way to get it put back where it belongs, way deep back there, even surgical scissors couldn't get it, so I grounded it to the floor of the housing. Fired right up. Well, I know a more about my furnace than I did last week. Thanks so much for your help!
cannesdo 05/20/12 02:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Annnnd...the furnace is out. (Suburban SF-35)

Sail switch is good. Yellow and red wires going to the board/module are good (both read about 13 on the meter.) Don't know how to test the four connections on the gas valve. What I've tried isn't giving me any response. Still don't know where the limit switch is.
cannesdo 05/20/12 11:33am Tech Issues
RE: Annnnd...the furnace is out. (Suburban SF-35)

The flow chart says to check the voltage on the red and yellow wires going to the board. Do I pull the "bank" of wires (all lined up vertically in a plastic plug it appears I can pull out, then touch the probes to the red and yellow wire, which are first and last on that string of about six wires, and do I have to do this while the furnace is trying to light? I found the valve and the sail switch. Still no idea where the limit switch is. Thanks!
cannesdo 05/20/12 10:51am Tech Issues
RE: Annnnd...the furnace is out. (Suburban SF-35)

Hey, thanks so much! If the gas is expelled throught he exhaust though shouldn't I be able to smell it outside at the exhaust point? Where would the limit switch be located? And do I need to check voltage of these switches only while the furnce is running/clicking, trying to fire up? I don't think it's the thermostat. I just meant that I have to slide it down from 65 to 40 and backup again in order to get it to kick back on/attempt to fire up, even if it's only 55 in the room.
cannesdo 05/20/12 10:26am Tech Issues
RE: Sparker on the stove not working

Good! Got the right thing then. "Piezo ignitor"...This one lasted me five years (that's how much I cook). Thanks so much! Going to go ahead and leave this thread in the archive for others looking searching via the world "spark, sparker,sparking." Took me a while to find I needed to be looking for "ignitor".
cannesdo 05/20/12 02:39am Tech Issues
Sparker on the stove not working

Since I'm here, and couldn't find anything in the archives on this, maybe I don't know the lingo...the sparking mechanism that lights the burners hasn't worked for a while now. I've been using a butane lighter. How does one fix that? Thanks much.... Update: Looks like I need to replace the ignitor? Wedgewood (mine) only shows an "Piezo ingitor) and not an "ignition module" in its parts list. Atwood shows both.
cannesdo 05/20/12 01:14am Tech Issues
Annnnd...the furnace is out. (Suburban SF-35)

2001 Alpenlite. Been lived in full time since '01. Never had a problem with it but figure it's due. It was on, went off. Seemed like it was out of gas, changed over to the other tank. Still didn't work. Only way I could get it to come on was drop the thermostat lever down then bring it back up to trigger it to go on. Behavior: 1.) It blows cool air. Clicks but doesn't light. No *whoosh* sound. Cycles through, trying to start, then blows for 90 sec. or so and turns itself off. 2.) No smell of gas which I understand it should have a bit when lighting. 3.) No marks on the outside of the rigs. 4.) No obstructions in either the intake or outtake tubes. Whole interior of when I removed the cover looks pretty clean, considering. 5.) I disconnected the LP line and blew it out today, nothing came out. Gas is getting through. 6.) Burners work. 7.) Batteries are fully charged and operating fridge and all the other 12v stuff running well. Don't know where to go from here. Wondering, if I take it out, isn't there a lot of ductwork that would have to first be removed? Found this Like the troubleshooting pages 27 & 28 but am not sure which one applies to me...my guess is it's page 28. If so, how do you know if the valve is open? If I don't smell gas does this mean it isn't? How do I check the current between the red and yellow wires? Have the tool, just don't know exactly how to use it. Red and black -- which one goes where? Babysteppin' through....
cannesdo 05/19/12 10:46pm Tech Issues
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