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Forum
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RE: Securing a telescope
Maybe a combination of the two suggestions above? Place the telescope in bubble wrap, then lay it on the bed, then strap it down. Or possibly on the sofa (ours is just behind the axles). We carry binoculars and sensitive electronic equipment on our bed, and they never have moved. Our trailer does have Dexter torsion axles, though, not leaf springs.
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campercajun
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01/30/12 06:03pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Dimming interior lights
We don't have your dimming problem, but our WFCO converter does have a wop, wop sound if we turn on only 5 light bulbs. The sound is caused by the fan repeatedly trying to turn on, but doesn't run continuously.
Most of our lighting fixtures have two bulbs. We can turn on two fixtures (4 bulbs) and the fan doesn't run. If we turn on 3 fixtures, the fan runs high speed continuously.
The problem comes when we have two fixtures (4 bulbs) on, then turn on one of the single bulb fixtures over the dinette or sofa, the Fantastic Fan, Vent-a-Hood fan, etc. Then the converter fan starts the cycling. For 5 years now, when we hear this, we know to either turn on one more light fixture, to cause the converter fan to run continuously, or turn one fixture off, which will stop it from running entirely.
A strange thing we noticed: our Dutchmen Tundra, our son's Keystone Cougar, and my nephew's Cougar 5th-wheel, all have the same exact converter, and at different times, we have stayed in all three. Our converter fan works as stated above. In our son's Cougar, his converter fan never comes on, no matter what 12V load you put on it. And on the 5th-wheel, the fan never stops, even if you turn off everything you can. Go figure.
Anyway, I hope this helps a little.
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campercajun
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01/30/12 05:49pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: looking to buy my first (used)trailer. . .
I will check that out on my truck later today. Thanks for the great post. I have a 4x4 "classic" bought used in 2010.
That's great. My eldest son bought an '07 Classic new, and still has it. Matter of fact, EVERYONE in our families now have Duramaxes (except 1 PowerStroke and 1 Cummins) except ME.:( But I get by. Maybe I'll get #1 son's Duramax when he gets a new one.:) Happy Trails!
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campercajun
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01/30/12 04:13pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: looking to buy my first (used)trailer. . .
Double Post
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campercajun
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01/30/12 03:55pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: looking to buy my first (used)trailer. . .
I agree with "bikendan", you should have a Weight-Distributing Hitch and sway control. If you buy an Equal-I-Zer brand hitch, or a Reese "Dual-Cam HP" hitch, your sway control is part of the setup, and when you hitch up your spring bars, you also hitch up your sway control. Nothing else is required.
Both of these hitch/sway control systems use friction to eliminate sway. The "Dual-Cam HP" has a "center detent position", which I personally prefer. Any sideways movement of the trailer moves the "cams" out of their center detent "saddle", and the increased tension on the spring bars forces them back into the "saddle" and returns the trailer to the directly-behind position.
In our two RVing families, everyone who doesn't pull a fifth-wheel uses one of these two systems. They both work well, and control sway. The "Dual-Cam" setup takes a little more time, as the trailer must be pulled forward 100' or so to make sure it is directly behind the tow vehicle, before adjusting the "saddles' that the "cam bars" nestle in. But it works very well. I tow a 33' trailer, and have no problems with sway.
Crosswind can still push both the truck and the trailer sideways, but the trailer will not sway. With my "Dual-Cam", the only thing that I've experienced that will move the trailer without moving the truck also, is if a large truck overtakes me at much higher speed on a multi-lane highway. The blast of air will move the rear of the trailer slightly sideways. But the additional force on the spring bars will push the "cams" right back into the "saddles" with no steering correction needed.
With either of these hitch/sway control setups, the only thing that will cause the trailer to sway back and forth is your own repeated back-and-forth inputs into the steering wheel, and that will stop as soon as you do.
I'm sure the Hensley Hitch is even better, but it also costs 3 times as much as the Equal-I-Zer or Reese Dual-Cam HP. Our families have been RVing since the '50's, and so far, none of us has felt the need for any more sway control than these two hitches provide. If money is no object, the Hensley is the "Cadillac". I have nothing against it but the cost (around $2500).
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campercajun
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01/30/12 03:51pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: looking to buy my first (used)trailer. . .
Thanks for the input. Tranny is an Allison, so no problems towing wise. I have a seven pin plug that should control the trailer brakes. do i need a separate controller inside the cab? Since I want to use this in the back country how do I lift a trailer? easy? cheap?
hmmm sway bars and weight distribution bars. . .don't know anything about either of those.
OPD valve? does that switch from one to the other when the first goes empty?
Thanks for the info m16fullauto!
You will need to buy a brake controller for the truck. If your Duramax has the HD trailer towing package (option code Z82 on your glove compartment option code sticker), and you buy a brand-name controller (I use the Tekonsha Prodigy), you can buy a cable with the controller that will plug into the controller and into your electrical box under the dash over your left foot area. This simplifies things, and no wire splicing will be necessary.
If you have the HD towing (Z82), your 12V trailer power wire and trailer brake wire are already installed and ready to go, in the electrical box under the hood near the left front fenderwell. If your truck has never been used for towing, you will probably have to take out the dummy fuses for the 12V power and brake wires, and replace them with the proper fuses, which you can buy at an auto parts store.
Your owner's manual will give you the info you need to locate the electrical boxes and the proper fuse locations and receptacle in which to plug the brake controller cable.
In response to another post, your Duramax should show a 3:73 rear axle (and front, too, if 4WD). The 3:73 axle ratio is option code GT4 on your glove compartment option code sticker. And if you have code "G80" on the sticker, you also have a factory installed locking differential in the rear axle.
This Eaton "gov-lock" unit will lock the differential, usually within 3/4 turn of one spinning wheel, but only below about 15 MPH. Once the differential locks, it will stay locked until you let off the gas. It will then unlock, and will not lock again until your vehicle (or your drive train, if you are spinning your tires) falls below 15 MPH again.
This feature is to prevent your differential from locking at speed on the roadway, which can cause both rear tires to break traction, and cause you to lose control.
The other posters have good information. Especially the one who advises, "if the inside of the trailer smells musty, turn around and walk out". Forget that trailer! It's been wet somewhere inside, and you can just about bet something is rotten somewhere.
EDIT: This info pertains to late 1999 through early 2007, GM "Classic" body style trucks. If your truck is a "late" 2007 or newer, with the "new" (current) body style, things may be somewhat different (I haven't owned one yet). But there are plenty of people on here that do, and can advise you of any differences concerning the location of the electrical boxes, fuses, and plug-in receptacles. Or consult your owner's manual.
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campercajun
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01/30/12 03:18pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Toughest trucks
I've learned to take most of these things with a few "grains of salt". I have nothing much against Fords except that the people they use to build their trucks around aren't built anything like me. I have owned Dodges, and they "fit" me, but mostly have owned GM, which are the most comfortable for me. (I've ridden in, but never owned, a Toyota or Nissan. For my personal comfort, I'll keep what I have.)
Imagine my chagrin when I've found out that I missed out on all the problems that I was supposed to have had with my GM and Dodge trucks. I have usually kept a truck past 100K miles, sometimes quite a bit past. I have had some work done on some of them, mostly A/C, but nothing that I considered "abnormal". I have bought 6 trucks brand new. I have had exactly 1 warranty claim, on an '84 Chevy Suburban. The right front passenger window fell down in the door when my wife shut it one day.
According to Consumer Reports and other sources, I guess I must have accidentally bought "reverse" lemons.
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campercajun
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01/30/12 02:35pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Do manufacturer's read enthusiast websites ?
I have received private messages from various companies. Many read the forums and chat with consumers.
I have had the same experience on other forums, but so far, not on this one.
I normally ignore the FORD/CHEVY/DODGE/TOYOTA,etc., wars. I drive GM and Dodge trucks, both large and compact, not because Ford and the others aren't good vehicles, but because GM and Dodge design their interiors around people who are built like I am.
No matter what kind of "miracle" seats they are equipped with, Fords do not fit me, and I can't get comfortable. Considering how much a truck costs, and how much time I spend in one, I see no reason to drive something that is about as comfortable to me as a buckboard. Some in my family own Fords, and one Toyota, and if they are pleased with their purchase, so am I.
Each person has their own reasons to drive a certain brand, whether it is brand loyalty, previous bad experience with a competing brand, or whatever. Nothing I say is going to change their minds, and I see no reason to bother. I don't have to drive their trucks.
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campercajun
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01/13/12 03:23pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Replacing the sofa
I'd also recommend checking with local RV dealers. They often have couches,chairs etc for sale around here that were taken out for their customers. Poeple will buy a unit off the lot but request the couch be swapped out with a sofa bed or chairs. Just a thought.
Not a bad idea. Several years ago on a previous trailer, we ordered a new, higher-grade sofa, built for a slightly upscale trailer with upgraded upholstery material, from the factory, through our dealer. Because of the space the sofa had to fit in, we could not find one locally or in nearby dealer's parts stocks that fit suitably into the space it had to go into.
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campercajun
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01/13/12 03:08pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Lockers for 4WD
Sometimes I think people forget you can do lots to slow down the lighter loaded spinning wheel with some light braking.
That is indeed a very good and often effective trick (even with limited slip units).
That is also what many "traction control" equipped vehicles do automatically, in addition to throttle manipulation.
Look in the glove compartment of your Chevy truck, on the option code list sticker, and see if the code "G80" is there. If it is, your truck has the Eaton gov-lock locking differential, which I have had on about 8 of mine. It is a mechanical locking unit, and it has a governor which will prevent it from locking above about 15 MPH ground speed. This is to keep it from locking at speed on ice, etc., and causing both wheels to break traction, which can easily cause a loss of control of the vehicle.
EDIT: If the differential locks, and you exceed about 15 MPH, it will stay locked until you let off the power, then it will release the lock. The unit will not re-lock until you slow to under the governed speed, for the reason stated above.
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campercajun
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01/13/12 02:56pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Hitch Slop
AMEN to both posts above.
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campercajun
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01/13/12 02:45pm |
Towing
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RE: Satellite TV Problem Help Please
Does sound like a cable issue. What type are you using to connect from the switch box to the rear tv? It should be a Component cable (5 connectors, 3 for video and 2 audio.) If you are using a 3 connector cable (2 audio, 1 video) then that's your issue... doesn't support HD. If you have the 5 connector then check the green/blue/red cables to make sure you've got them plugged in correctly as they carry the video. Make sure they are plugged into the new tv in the Component connections, not the Composite.
Good advice. Our HDTVs can accept the red/white audio-yellow video Composite connections, but signals from such a source won't be in HD.
If you have Component cables (2 audio, (3)green,blue, and red video), check the connections thoroughly with a flashlight on both ends. With my older eyes, it's pretty easy for me to transpose the blue and green cables if I don't have plenty of light on the connections.
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campercajun
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01/13/12 02:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New or Recycled Water Heater?
Maybe you got a unit that the factory shop exchanged for a new one on an RV in for service, then fixed the old one and put it back in stock? Most of the factories don't store inventory outside. Out of 5 new trailers we've bought since 1985, we've never gotten one with already-rusting appliances.
Since our latest trailer (an '06, bought in '07) had to go back to Goshen, Indiana, to Dutchmen's factory shop, for fiberglass side panel replacement (the fiberglass was defective from the manufacturer), I know the factories have repair shops that often have used units in for various repairs.
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campercajun
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01/13/12 02:28pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Enclosed trailers
Neither I nor anyone I know personally has any experience with Stealth Trailers. But I can tell you from nearly 38 years of RVing that ANY RV can leak, and if you don't thoroughly inspect it when it's being or has been rained on, you won't catch the problem until structural damage has been done.
I've seen many RVers break leaf springs, too, even on expensive, high-end, full-timing rigs. Our last 5 trailers (1985 Starcraft pop-up, 1996 Trailmanor hard-wall folding trailer, 2002 & 2004 Dutchmen Aerolite TTs and a 2006 Dutchmen Tundra TT) all had Dexter Torsion axles, so I've managed to avoid spring breakage.
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campercajun
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01/12/12 12:27am |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Travel trailer to a TC
If you spend most of your camping time in off-road areas, then the TC would probably make more sense, if you can spend a couple of rainy days inside a TC without killing each other. This, plus not having kids at home anymore, led us from pop-ups to TTs.
You can modify a TT for moderate off-road use, and a few years ago, Dutchmen and Keystone were building factory-modified trailers with increased ground clearance and off-road tires, etc. My son had a Keystone Sprinter that didn't have the off-road option, so he had the axles flipped to give him more ground clearance to get into his hunting lease.
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campercajun
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01/12/12 12:15am |
Truck Campers
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RE: charging deep cycle battery
In the past, we had both a Trailmanor 3326 King and an Aerolite A25FB that had the battery mounted inside a storage compartment. Both trailers came equipped from the factory with the same battery box (and vent installed in the side wall) that smkettner shows in his post above. This vents the sulphuric acid and hydrogen gas fumes outside. You should be able to install one of these in your truck camper.
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campercajun
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01/12/12 12:05am |
Tech Issues
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