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RE: TIRE UPGRADE
BUMP...Still looking for answers...:)
I really like the BF Goodrich Commercial 235/85/R 16s that are on both our F350 and motor home. They have a maximum air pressure rating of 80 lbs and that's what I run them at.
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blackf3504dr
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02/01/12 08:56am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fiberglass wall crack
I agree it looks like a structural problem and if not taken care of any cosmetic fix will fail .
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blackf3504dr
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01/09/12 04:39am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Exhaust Manifold Repair
Wildman,
NHRA illegalized chrome plating on a lot of things as the electroplating actually weakens it, there are a lot of rules on pre this year and that, but bottom line, anything structural can't be chromed. I suppose that is what has gotten the aftermarket developing better stainless.
B
I think you misunderstood. Hard chrome is a process to harden the surface, it's used in parts that see a lot of ware and need a hard surface to fight off fatigue. When I drove for an auto parts manufacturer they would send out the drive screws for the plastic injection machines to be hard chromed as they were subject to ware and often ran 24/7. Hard chrome doesn't have the "shine" that you think of when you think of chrome plating, just a clean metal look.
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blackf3504dr
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01/08/12 05:46am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Exhaust Manifold Repair
Generally speaking, stainless steel bolts are at best grade 2. Instead of drilling the bolt holes in the head bigger I'd oblong the holes in the exhaust manifolds to allow them to "move" as they heat and cool.
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blackf3504dr
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01/03/12 05:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How to rewire 110 v fixtures?
Be careful ! Wire insulation is rated in volts.
Most common wiring has 600 volt insulation, and
is safe used at 115 volts for lighting, or at
12 volts D C for the lighting, BUT,
the 12 volt wiring insulation MAY be rated at some LOW
voltage, will arc at 115 volts, and burn down
your R v.
Norm, I think you misunderstood the question. The OP wants to run 12Vs DC through the 120V AC wires in the fixture... No problem.
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blackf3504dr
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12/27/11 05:03am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: How to rewire 110 v fixtures?
I have read on the forums that 110v fixtures can be substituted for 12v (using 12v bulbs). This is an ideal solution for us, but we're not sure how to handle the wiring - what "comes out of the ceiling" doesn't seem to match 'what comes out of the fixture." This probably shouldn't be hard, but obviously, I'm not sure what I'm doing and would appreciate any help!
Thanks,
Linda
We did this years ago in our fifth wheel. The wife hated the light fixture over the dinette and we replaced it with a 120V fixture, It was an easy project. The only difference is the 12V bulb that we bought at Wal*Mart in the RV section.
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blackf3504dr
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12/27/11 04:59am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Florida SunPass
If you decide to go with a transponder look your billing statements carefully to make sure there are no mistakes in it. There have been a few people who were billed incorrectly and had their diver's license suspended...
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blackf3504dr
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12/15/11 05:11am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing Screen Door
I replaced the screen in our door on the unit, wasn't that hard and I didn't have to mess with taking the door off.
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blackf3504dr
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12/03/11 05:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1994 ford fuel pump
Many symptoms from hard starting to running out of fuel at speed. Before dropping the tank take a bunch of measurements to see if you can cut an access through the floor to change the pump, that's what I did and it was much easier then dropping a 3/4 full tank or trying to empty it. I bought the pump and wire shunt from Rock Auto online.
The pump was about $350 and the wire shunt to go from the 3 wire harness on the chassis to the 4 wires on the pump was $25. Once the access "door" was cut in the floor it was a piece of cake to change. Also the older style fuel line connectors can be removed with a flat blade screwdiver but the later ones need a special tool but I'm not sure when the change took place. Keep us posted of your progress.
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blackf3504dr
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11/27/11 04:50am |
Tech Issues
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RE: no grease in rear F53
Before the gear set gives you any trouble the axle bearings would have failed on your drive home from Florida from lack of lubrication . I don't think a loose fill plug would leak all the diff lube out as it sets high in the housing.
As suggested you could remove the rear cover and inspect the differential for problems ... Keep in mind a lot of these Dana differentials make noise, our 92' HR has for years and is still going strong.
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blackf3504dr
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11/24/11 05:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: problem
I'm voting for a plugged fuel filler cap. The cap won't allow enough air to enter the fuel tank to replace the fuel that has been used, eventually starving the engine. In 30 minutes, enough air will have leaked into the tank to allow fuel to be pumped to the engine.
That's my thinking too. The next time it does it, loosen the gas cap and see if there's sucking sound as the air in the tank is replenished.
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blackf3504dr
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11/24/11 05:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Speedco and recycled oil
One reason Speedco is cheaper is volume. They do a lot of oil changes and can get a better price on products then the local shops.
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blackf3504dr
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11/24/11 04:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How cold before to worr??
I own a Class A Renegade by Harney Coach Works. I live in north central Florida (Ocala Aera). Begining about now thru March we get quite a few nites where the temp will dip down below freezing a few hours. My question is how cold and for how long before I should take any precautions. My basement is heated.
We live about twenty miles south of y'all in Leesburg. We have never had a problem with anything in the coach freezing and have never "winterized" it. It may get down in the twenties but doesn't stay there long enough to freeze the water lines, at least that's been our experience.
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blackf3504dr
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11/13/11 06:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: The old girl is back - where to start
It's nice to hear from ya again Steve! I think I have the same "decease" you have with fixing things and can't seem to shake it...
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blackf3504dr
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11/07/11 04:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How about the wrong oil added to my 8.1 Workhorse engine.
and a higher lever of Zinc for what ever that may be uses.
The higher Zinc is there to promote bearing life in a high performance or high mileage engine. I use an oil designed for high mileage engines in the wife's mini van (128000 mi.) and our motor home (78000 mi.).
Read the back of the container, if it meets specs for your engine (all those numbers and letters have meanings) it should be fine.Motorcycle oil has higher ZDDP content, which protects metal to metal contact. The problem is that it is believed to clog the catalytic converter. So the EPA and engine manufacturers required a reduction of ZDDP in the oil, so the emissions system would last the 150,000 mileage requirement. The has never been a test to actually prove that ZDDP does clog the converter, (Statement made by Lubrizol), but none the less, the automotive manufacturers still required the reduction. You may have heard of cats getting clogged, but typically that takes 100,000 miles before that occurs. So in your case running one oil change with extra ZDDP will not put a substantial amount of ZDDP in the cat and clog it. I would not worry about it.
You are right on all counts.You sometimes have to wonder about the decisions the EPA makes. I am not concerned with the added Zinc's affect on the cats at this point in the vehicles life...
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blackf3504dr
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10/31/11 03:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: When true beauty takes your breath away! Mod...don't delete!
I like the interior...reminds me of the good old days at the Mustang Ranch....Dennis
So Dennis, How much time have you spent at the Mustang Ranch?? :D
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blackf3504dr
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10/31/11 05:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How about the wrong oil added to my 8.1 Workhorse engine.
and a higher lever of Zinc for what ever that may be uses.
The higher Zinc is there to promote bearing life in a high performance or high mileage engine. I use an oil designed for high mileage engines in the wife's mini van (128000 mi.) and our motor home (78000 mi.).
Read the back of the container, if it meets specs for your engine (all those numbers and letters have meanings) it should be fine.
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blackf3504dr
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10/31/11 05:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford F53 Winnebago Adventurer Nightmares
Maybe some day. In other good news, the shop working on our rig smashed up the rear end. Now it's in their body shop. We have all the good luck with this thing ;)
Don't feel like the lone ranger... Years ago I left my semi tractor at a shop for some routine maintenance, while doing the test drive the mechanic was involved in an accident. Too say the least I was not a happy camper!
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blackf3504dr
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10/25/11 11:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford F53 Winnebago Adventurer Nightmares
The Ford V10s have not had the spark plug problem since the early ones. Part of the problem was a two part spark plug. Sometimes engineers just plain screw up and a great idea turns out to be not so great...
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blackf3504dr
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10/24/11 08:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Safe Steer Systems
Never had a Steer Safe or like product and don't see the need for one.... Maybe after thirty years of driving tractor trailer and now our third motor home I just expect them to drive and handle like what they are, trucks. I'm not saying they are a bad product or not appreciated by those that have them, just don't personally see the need to spend the money...
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blackf3504dr
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10/23/11 06:21am |
Class A Motorhomes
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