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RE: "Ole School" Amp Meter on Solar Panel
nice work, I've posted links to "all" quite a few times
I hate to admit it, but those guys recognize me on sight, im on a first name basis with several of them, they are my first stop when i'm on a project
Thanks. I too, probably spent well over $2000 in electronic components over the years..
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/08/12 05:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: "Ole School" Amp Meter on Solar Panel
Pretty! Would a lithium 9-volt battery be an optional consideration?
Sure..
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/08/12 02:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: "Ole School" Amp Meter on Solar Panel
I have the Morningstar Sunsaver mppt 15 with the remote meter...Gives panel voltage only..
I installed a 50 amp 50 mv shunt and meter to see the panel amps...
When the controller is beginning to get useable current/voltage and begins to Mppt the reading can get a little erratic. It does settle down though...
50amp 50mv shunt
http://www.allelectronics.com/mas_assets/cache/image/e/a/1/3745.Jpg
Then this .200 mv meter...You will need a separate power supply...9 vdc battery works well. I use a button and for leaving it on for some time, a switch.
Care must be taken to hook it up properly to the battery..If you reverse the leads + - it will destroy the meter. I bought a spare meter.
When mounting it make sure that the cutout is big enough that it will not stress the meter...The display is sensitive to twisting and compressing on the sides...I used hot glue to hold mine in.
I have 4 of them in one fixture for reading various voltages and currents.
.200volt scale meter
http://www.allelectronics.com/mas_assets/cache/image/c/2/3/3107.Jpg
http://www.allelectronics.com/index.php
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/1030acontroller/Meter%20Project/Dscn0995.jpg width=650
Actually I have a separate 12vdc Security system battery and charger that runs my meter panel. The 9vdc battery is backup.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/1030acontroller/Meter%20Project/Dscn0996.jpg width=650
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/08/12 01:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: New electric Happijac rust on inner tubes??
Mine are 13 and just beginning to show some spots of rust on the inner tubes....My outers started flaking about 3 years ago...I just sand the bad spots and use Rustoleum...
Yours are showing rust where the tubes normally do not touch the outer.
Those 4 nylon glides are to keep the tube centered at the bottom.
I would contact HJ...If they are new something in the painting process went wrong....I have read on our forum that some folks have been treated fairly in regards to this problem.
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/08/12 09:24am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Travel Help (Niagara Falls)
Several rv parks on the Canadian side.
I like the Canadian side the best! Lots of fun.
Passport!
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/06/12 01:52pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Wave 3 in a Northstar Laredo
That's the way I did it too!!
Good job....
Love that WAVE-3!!!
Here's mine:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_lAsuwHaXHEs/S0K_hmIkWPI/AAAAAAAAAc0/8ME6z3BwOK0/s800/100_2814.JPG
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/06/12 09:59am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Do you travel wet or dry?
Partially wet. I've found it to be a pain to not have water to flush etc. My black/grey tanks are in the back, I try to keep them empty.
I think partially empty tanks have a tendency to mildew, and begin to smell. I keep mine full when not in use. Our camper is 12 years old...Water taste fresh as out of the tap.
Also it's a comforting thing to know we have 50 gal of water in case of an emergency...Along with all the canned goods we keep in the camper.
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/05/12 06:41pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Do you travel wet or dry?
Double post!
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/05/12 06:36pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Do you travel wet or dry?
Fresh water full. I like the taste of our water!.
Grey and Black empty if possible.
If we find a spot with good fresh water I will top up.
Ditto this! Our home water is wonderful most of the time. If on a week or more out, max we have done 8 weeks, we will fill with water if the water tastes good...Even if we are only 1/2 empty. Never know what the next water will taste like.
Dump the gray and black if we see a place that is free, even if only 1/2 full.
Some water I would not even want in my tanks...uGGGGGGGGGGhhhhhhhh.
50 gal fresh water tank...
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/05/12 06:35pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: TriMetric 2025RV Wireing UPDATED information
Pg 20 of the 2020 users manual shows everything.
http://www.bogartengineering.com/sites/default/files/docs/TM-2020Instruc-October2005.pdf
Never heard anyone have confusion with wiring up the 2020.
JimOK, but the OP has stated several times that he has a 2025RV.
Oops, sorry got the wrong manual referenced....
Looks like problem is solved.
For others to reference, here is the link to all of the Bogart engineering doc's...
http://www.bogartengineering.com/support/manuals
Look up 2025 instruction manual
It shows the fuse as required etc..
See page 8
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/05/12 11:03am |
Tech Issues
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RE: TriMetric 2025RV Wireing UPDATED information
Pg 20 of the 2020 users manual shows everything.
http://www.bogartengineering.com/sites/default/files/docs/TM-2020Instruc-October2005.pdf
Never heard anyone have confusion with wiring up the 2020.
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/05/12 08:54am |
Tech Issues
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RE: How long (age) do 19.5s last?
During those 10 years did you rotate the tires or just leave them?
I have a friend that has not rotated his...They still look great...
Jim
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bigfootford
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05/03/12 08:30am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Parallel or Series Solar?
Short circuit test is the best load test you can do on solar panel. I am done.
Correct, how else ya gona test it?
Jim
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bigfootford
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04/28/12 08:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Parallel or Series Solar?
Did you do a short circuit test? I can't make sense out of it otherwise.
This description of you panel says bypass diodes are in the junction box. Some may have them some don't.
Sal
Before I installed my system I did test both panels...Sunwize 100c 23Vmp 4.35Isc 48cell panels...I was pleased with the shading amps from my panels..4.04 amps out of 4.35 amps for each panel. I have no bypass diodes.
My panels have one diode each so I was under the opinion that it was used as a blocking diode.
The test found that I got 4.03 amps from my panel....Yes the meter was set to current and no controlling device attached...
Could say it was shorted through my meter....Thus a short test with shade.
I did misstype on the post:
Isc should have been Imp...
Corrected..
Isc of the Sunwize panel is 5.0 amps
Imp is 4.35..
Jim
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bigfootford
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04/28/12 07:58pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Parallel or Series Solar?
Before I installed my system I did test both panels...Sunwize 100c 23Vmp 4.35 Imp 48cell panels...I was pleased with the shading amps from my panels..4.04 amps out of 4.35 amps for each panel. I have no bypass diodes.
I did not do series testing...Might be an interesting project..I do camp in shaded/treed sites at times.
Shade testing is such a large variable that I do not see how one can offer any reliable test results. I did mine for bench marking how they worked..
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kFo57carMyw/T5xppjcOk1I/AAAAAAAABzs/gCcVlvKQiU4/s800/100_3537.JPG height=640 width=447
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G8YG_RyzxOw/T5xprW48kWI/AAAAAAAABz0/repL2a06k4w/s800/100_3538.JPG height=640 width=447
Jim
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bigfootford
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04/28/12 04:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: New Battery/Converter time
This is the best one is really concerned with temp compensation and all the other features if one is really concerned...
Can't equalize AGM's with those (well I suppose you could switch it to flooded mode). Also, charge voltage is only 14.2.
Again I have not experienced or friends/rv.net'ers had a need to equalize their AGM's. No capacity loss...Have read that some Boat folks have had some problems...
Lifeline says that conditioning/equalize should only be used if the battery has been in a low state of charge for an extended period of time and shows signs of capacity loss.
Pg 20 of the manual:
http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/manual.pdf
Jim
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bigfootford
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04/25/12 01:34pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: New Battery/Converter time
I am not familiar with any RV "converter" that offers these capabilities, though I'm eager to learn about such a device should it exist.
This is the best one is really concerned with temp compensation and all the other features if one is really concerned...
Made for RV's etc..
Temp comp, equalize etc:
http://www.bestconverter.com/Truecharge2-40-Amp_p_315.html
Again, I can only go by experience... I have not heard of anyone experiencing premature failure of an AGM here on RV.net because a proper functioning inexpensive multistage converter was in use.
Of those that I have experience with, none of them were ever equalized...Optima, Lifeline.
Over the 10 years I have had my Progressive Dynamics I have watched my battery temperature when charging in hot weather. If the battery is over about 95 deg I do not allow the converter to go into Bulk mode by using the Pendant/Wizard..So 13.6vdc is what the battery gets. That works for me and a few others that are concerned about temperature and batteries. I also use the Wizard/Pendant to force bulk mode when my battery (s) are cold...It is the only converter you can do this with.
Jim
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bigfootford
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04/25/12 01:11pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: New Battery/Converter time
I am not aware of any "converters" that offer the level of programability (& temperature compensation) that I would want in order to safely maintain (expensive!) AGM batteries like LifeLines.
Do you currently have an inverter? If not, you might consider an inverter/charger. There are several to choose from. Take a look at: Xantrex, Outback, and Magnum.
If you only want a charger, here are a few reputable ones: Xantrex, Newmar, Charles, and Victron.
Cheers
-Mark
Many folks are using Iota's and PD's for their lifelines, Optima and Universals just fine.
I have witnessed 7 years Lifeline WFCO/Iota, 9 years Optimas PD 9245.
Mine are over 2 years old and still at 100% spec...PD 9260.
From lifeline:
http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/manual.php
Battery Charging:
The following charging voltages are recommended for maximum battery life for all Lifeline models.
Charging Phase 12 Volt Battery
Bulk/Absorb-------------14.2v - 14.4v
Float-------------------13.20v - 13.40v
Jim
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bigfootford
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04/25/12 10:51am |
Tech Issues
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RE: New Battery/Converter time
Some of us have the Progressive Dynamics 92xx with the pendant to control the stage of charging....And charge Lifeline/Optima AGM's just fine...I have over 2 years on my 100amp AGM...It is performing as good as new.
Iota DLS with the IQ4 is a good choice also...
The PD 9260, Iota's will fit right under the old magnetek...
Link on how to do it...
http://www.bestconverter.com/MagnetekParallax-to-PDI-or-Iota_ep_13-1.html
Amperage to be determined by battery capacity..
Check with Randy at BestConverter....He has good prices and very helpful.
http://www.bestconverter.com/
If you have the $ then the best is the Xantrex truecharge2's
http://www.bestconverter.com/Xantrex-TrueCharge2-Chargers_c_111.html
Jim
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bigfootford
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04/25/12 09:40am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Rogue vs Blue Sky charge controllers
This sale just came up from SM's link:
120watt solar panel
$1.20/watt, and a good size, dimension, for RV's..
So $145 X2 = $290 and a Morningstar PWM (20 amp)and a meter $145= $435
Or the Tristar one recommended by Sal and Don.
Morningstar-Sunsaver-Duo w/ meter
Or $145 X2 = $290 and a Rogue $325 = $615...
Rogue Controller
I do like that Rogue, and those that have one love them...
When considering MPPT the Rogue provides the meter and the temperature comp in the price.
PWM will work well for the lower voltage panels..18.0 Vdc or less.
It will cost you around $100-$150 for all the hardware stuff needed to get it all operational..
Something to consider, If the location needed for the controller install does not work well to read the meter on the Rogue you would have to purchase their remote meter...
A quote from SAL:
It's good that the Rogue has thermal protection. But not that great if it requires manual control to restart it. In your case, I would point a 12V fan at the controller. Add a thermal switch inline with the fan power so that it turns on when temperature is greater than 100F.
Sal
The spec for shutdown of the Rogue is 185deg F....That's HOT...I do not think 185deg is healthy for any electronics so I would welcome that feature. Morningstar spec's around 140 deg F..60deg C.
"MorningStar TriStar 45 Amp Volt 12/24/48 PWM Charge Controller ... Operating ambient temperature: Controller –40°C to +60 ... PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) battery ...".
Edit to add:
My Morningstar Sunsaver Mppt 15 runs at 12-13amps when my solar is really pumping...never seen the temp of the controller go over 120deg F...
Jim
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bigfootford
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04/25/12 09:06am |
Tech Issues
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