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RE: Cut Off Valve
If / When you find the factory h/w tank tank bi-pass valves and find they are within a factory terrible position, one might want to re-locate the valves as well. Relocation is a simply DIY tasks - using store bought items at Lowes. On my Jayco, its factory h/w tank bi-pass valves can only be turned by laying flat stomach on a dusty floor, opening a little 6"x6" access door and reaching deep inside - while holding a a small flashlight in one's mouth (to see within the dark hole). The person who designed this terrible access method should be fired. Yes. I'm serious. If wondering, I simply tool my PEX clamp tool, some PEX pipe, some clamp rings and moved its h/w tank bi-pass valves to a much better location. re: Now, I simply open a large storage door on its outside and reach in. And best of all, no factory PEX joints above its electrical distribution panel anymore either. Why would Jayco allow water piping joints above such a critical system is beyond dumb. Anyway…. If the factory h/w tank bi-pass valves isn't within a "easy access" location on your RV, one can move them to a much better location as well. As long as "low gravity flow" rule is applied to re-located valves as well.
Hope this helps as well…
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batman99
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05/24/12 06:55pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Brake/bearing inspection needed after one season?
See page 69 within: http://united-trailers.com/Uploads/Manuals/Manual_6.pdf
As noted on Dexter Axle MTCE schedule, pull hubs and inspection brakes / bearings every 12 months or 12,000 miles - whichever comes first. If pulling hubs to perform this simple DIY task, simply check condition of rear seal and refresh its wheel bearing grease as well. This is standard maintenance - just like replacing engine & transmission oil in Tow vehicles during their xx maintenance triggers is standard as well.
If wondering, I pull my own hubs (lots of U-Tubes videos showing how) EVERY 12 months, and it costs me $8.00 for a bottle of Marine Grease (since it takes more natural moisture abuse than normal wheel bearing grease).
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batman99
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05/24/12 02:27pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: trailer brake wiring
batman99 thank you very much that is exactly the information I needed. Are the chains used so the axle doesn't sag and pull at the wiring?
Forgot to also mention the brake magnets are NOT polarity sensitive. On my one trailer, both leads for its brake magnets are green. On my other trailer, they are black. Regardless, trailer magnets are not polarity sensitive. re: Doesn't matter if "-" or "+" Brake Controller wire goes to each lead.
The steel chains (which could also be thin steel cables) are installed with a sag. Simply raise the trailer from its frame (to lift its wheel off the ground - as if changing its tire) to determine its needed vertical support sag amount. These optional items are used to deflect any road garbage, CG long grass, etc. that may get under the TT. For example, the much stronger steel support would deflect the item instead of allowing it to rip out the brake wiring. When I'm under the trailer installing new Brake Wiring, it takes me very little additional time / low cost materials to install a strong vertical chain or cable support as well.
When installing the horizontal 2 x 10 Gauge brake wiring, ensure its comfortably loose under the Trailer as well. My TT's 10 gauge main RED duplex wiring was pulled so tight during factory build, one could sing a song off it. No kidding!!! In addition to its over tightness, it had NO grommets either. Which means it was allowed to rub against unprotected steel frame parts. Surf: - Click Here - and - Click Here -
Let's face it… RVs are build at "minimum" specs and "minimum" quality. Build to get out the factory door and only last a few short years. When installing your own brake wiring (to make better or a restoration project), do use STAR design, do NOT use default inside the axles, do install in plastic support tubes (which eliminates steel on steel rubbing) and always make better than factory. One cannot make a 100% bullet proof brake wiring system. But, the STAR design using 10 gauge duplex wiring to each hub is much better than factory. Besides the improve safety levels of STAR, I also immediately noticed my trailer brakes more responsive and predictable - compared to factory linear with thinner 12 gauge wiring inside its axles.
Hope this helps…
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batman99
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05/01/12 08:01am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: trailer brake wiring
"parallel wiring"? I've never heard of that term for trailer brake wiring. Perhaps they mean its "+" and "-" wire are parallel installed to the Tow Vehicle's 7-pin connector, instead of having the "-" wire on frame ground and only running a single wire ("+" wire) to the 7-pin connector?
Instead of the term "parallel", perhaps they mean STAR brake wiring configuration instead? By default, many trailers (boat, RV, utility) have factory linear wiring. Meaning, the main brake cable (+/- leads) are run down one side of the trailer and its wires branch out to its nearest wheel hub. This main wheel hub then feeds its other wheel hub using inside axle wiring. Very linear and IMO, very unsafe. The best wiring scheme to use is STAR. Meaning, the main wires feed into a master junction box (mounted in centre of trailer). A set of "+" and "-" wires feed out of this master junction box to each wheel hub. Using this scheme, each wheel hub has its own wiring run. And if cabling is approx. same physical length, it has balanced current flow to each wheel hub as well.
For pictures sure:
Default Linear - Surf: - Click Here -
Much better STAR - surf: - Click Here -
Proper method to secure Hub wiring - surf: - Click Here -
Wire mounting under my utility TT - surf: - Click Here -
Hope this helps in your Brake Wiring upgrades…
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batman99
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04/30/12 07:40pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: When to replace bearings ?
How much grease???
Surf wheel bearing pictures at e-trailer site. They show the proper amount….
For text & Pictures, surf: http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wheelbearingpack.aspx
For video, surf: http://www.etrailer.com/tv-repack_trailer_hub_bearings.aspx
For another video, surf: http://www.etrailer.com/tv-remove_inspect_reinstall_trailer_bearings.aspx
As seen in the videos, one doesn't need "too much" grease. But, enough grease to keep it well lubricated.
Note: In one of the above videos, I see the guy using a steel hammer to pound the wheel bearing rear seal into place. Steel on steel pounding is a bad idea. For your DIY install, simply put a flat wood board over the bearing seal. Then, use steel hammer to pound the flat board - which softly presses the bearing seal into place. And, reduces the risk of seal damage as well.
Also… I use Marine (boat) Heavy Duty wheel bearing grease. The boat grease take water and natural moisture exposure better then dry land wheel bearing grease.
Hope this helps…
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batman99
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04/25/12 08:41am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Window reseal....
On my 2006 Jayco, I manually resealed each of its 11 windows (did 2 windows each weekend - until completed). To my surprise, 3 of its windows were leaking inside its walls and I didn't even know it. And, 1 of these 3 windows was leaking really bad (re: black mould inside the walls - where its hidden).
Unknown to some, many RV/TT makers use a "dry fit" rubber seal system. And just like dry fit rubber on windshield wiper blades, the natural UV exposure turns the rubber hard. And, also shrinks the rubber. And unknowingly over time, water sneaks behind the rubber. By the time one finds a window leak, its too late. The damage inside that walls is huge. Ya. Tip of iceberg thing. re: What you see on the visible outside is a small fraction of the damage hidden under neath.
Knowing what I know today, I now manually re-seal ALL my RV windows. The day after its factory warranty is done, I manually re-seal the windows - the "proper old school" way - using soft putty between window's lip and RV's outer edge. Then, apply white or clear external silicone around the window's edge - for even better protection.
For a really good video, surf: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1u3fe3CJuYY
Note: Remove the window (as shown in the video) and place the window a a work bench (with a soft blanket over the work bench). If the window has factory "dry fit" rubber, simply remove it. Its stuck on using single sided tape. With a butter knife and some time, do remove this rubber. Remember to leave the plastic window spacers in place. Then, apply the soft putty where this rubber seal was stuck. Then, continue following the instructions within the video. If wondering, I did this DIY fix many years ago. And, it still working great today…
So yes, I would manually re-seal the window on your '04 RV. Perhaps the previous owner already re-sealed the windows the proper "old school" way many years ago? Using above video, try one window and see how it goes.
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batman99
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04/25/12 08:30am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Wheel bearings
I manually tear down and re-pack my trailer bearings every year. Only replace their rear seal every 2 years. As stated in above posts by others, I clean and visually inspect bearings, seals, Cotter pin, etc.. If they do NOT look brand new, then I replace the part. As a general statement, one only needs to manually clean / manually re-pack wheel bearings for the life of the TT (assume they are cleaned / packed properly). Bearings often last the life of the TT - if greased properly / yearly and the axle isn't over abused (on rough roads or over loaded).
If wondering, Dexter Axle company recommends "manually clean & re-pack wheel bearings every 12 months or 12,000 miles - whichever comes first". re: Surf: http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/Service_Resources/Maintenance_Schedule_1-12.pdf
Forgot to mention… For grease, I use HD Boat grease. Marine grease is made to withstand water / natural moisture exposure much better compared to normal dry land trailer wheel bearing grease. Grease quality is like gasoline quality. Better the quality, more wear / tear "abuse" the wheel bearings will take. Thus, it creates much longer bearing lifespan as well…
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batman99
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04/24/12 08:05pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Tire size - will my rims work?
I've done it as well. re: Putting larger size rubber on 5.5" rims. And, it worked great for me too.
Regarding "minimum / maximum" specs…. Speed limit states 60 MPH on the hiway. How many people NOT drive over 60 MPH? Bet many drive 65-70 mph (even pulling a heavy weight trailer behind them) without loosing a second of sleep over it… Something to think about…
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batman99
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04/22/12 03:40pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: New surface "driveway" for camper
Yes. 4-6" of gravel, then 2" of 3/4" crush, then lay 24"x24" patio stones on its top. Add some good top soil around it, throw down some grass seed and within 4 months, it looks perfect.
re:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Misc%20Pictures/Front-1copy.jpg height=300 width=300
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batman99
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03/13/12 08:53pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Do TT have furnace air filters?
Air filters are now being installed in new technology vehicles. Home furnace year "cleaning" is a big thing these days as well. Bet thousands of people make a living cleaning "the crud" out of home airflow / air ducts pipes. And, people clean their BBQ every year as well. So, why should people leave their RV furnance system dirty and NOT cleaned? Why would people want to smell over cooked critter poop rom their RVs system? IMO, RV furnace systems need to be cleaned and "basic filtering" as well. Like the one post above implied.... My great, great, great grand father survived in lead paint years, asbestos years, smoking years and other over polluted environments? It won't hurt my body either... Or, will it??? Luckily, many know better today....
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batman99
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11/13/11 03:37pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Do TT have furnace air filters?
You know...
One doesn't need to be a rocket scientist to remove "disconnect" the gas line. Its the same level of skill to remove the plastic plug from a hot water tank. Simply use the proper size open end wrench and remove the gas line connector. No pipe romoving or bending. And when re-connecting, simply reverse and check with soap / water to test for leaks. It isn't that heard. Very easy DIY task. Just like the hot wanter tank plug.
IMO, one should remove their furance, rotate in all directions and "shake it silly". Just like a toaster over a kitchen sink. One will be amazed on all the "stuff" that comes out of it. Remove every year, every other year or every 5 years? It's up to you - based on one's usage. I can tell you from my own eyes, these things fill with dust and crud. Not to mention mouse droppings and other unwanted stuff in the air. Removing a gas line is a DIY task. Simply use Soap and water to check for leaks afterwards. It isn't has hard as some make it sound...
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batman99
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11/13/11 08:56am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Do TT have furnace air filters?
Larry.
Read my above posts again. Didn't say I used a filter. I use a screen (steel screen) to keep critters out. And yes, it works....
Just like a home furnace system, a TT's air ducts and furnace chambers need to be cleaned as well. Especially when NO dust filter system is used...
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batman99
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11/12/11 07:30pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Do TT have furnace air filters?
I've been run a filter for years .... was taught never run any furnace/A/C without a filter. I have made many a filter up for mobile homes furnaces and showed serval friends how to cut and fit filter for there RVs.
I agree. Every spring, I remove / clean the custom made steel screen for my TT's furnace. While cleaning this screen (which is a simple DIY task), I also remove my TT's LP furnace, hold it upside down and shake it silly. Just like many folks hold a toaster upside down over a large kitchen sink and shake it every month. To my surprise, there's a huge amount of "crud" that accumulates inside the LP furnace. IMO, cleaning (removal and shake method) of RV's furnaces should be mandatory task every spring for all as well. Amazing how much "stuff" collects inside the furnace chambers every year. Especially when NO filter is used...
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batman99
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11/12/11 05:37pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Do TT have furnace air filters?
NO "air filter" on TT's because just like home dryer vents with screens, many people forget to clean them. And in time, this lint/crud plugged filter becomes a huge fire hazard. To eliminate risk of possible fire, RV industry do not use Air Flow filters - like they use in traditional home systems.
If you want a filter to keep critters out (from inside the in-floor air duct piping), simply install a steel screen. And, remember to clean this steel screen out every fall and spring. Especially in fall time - when one starts using their LP furnace.
Below is a steel screen I installed under my TT's LP furnace. And yes, it works great.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Seasonal%20Camp%20Site/FurnanceBaseScreen.jpg width=640
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batman99
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11/12/11 04:45pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Rubber roof care and maintenace
Quoting "what should be" doesn't apply to all. In reality, EDPM "maintenance" also depends on regional location as well.
Within my damp, cold and "down right ugly" weather region, most EDPM rubber roofs last between 10-15 years. 10 Years if never coated and 15 years if coated every year. I've not used Dicor Guard product but have heard its a good. I use Protect-All Rubber roof treatment and like its easy application and after results.
If wondering, when my TT's EDPM roof is 10-12 years old, I'm getting its factory EPDP sheet coated with liquid Rubber Roof. Thus, hoping getting another 10+ years out of it. Assume we plan to keep our trailer for another 10+ years.
If my 2006 TT was in "typical" weather regions with NO tree sap, no harsh winters, then I wouldn't bother with any optional roof treatment. I'd only wash 1 x per year. Also... If you sell your TT every 5 years (like many), then don't waist one's time doing maintenance on the roof. Simply use and "sell (or trade in)" like many do.... The choice is yours....
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batman99
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11/12/11 09:48am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Building a 5th wheel TT
Hi Bucky.
Ya. A trailer doesn't need to look like other traditional trailers. When completed, it does need to be clean looking. IMO, today's factory built trailers are junk. Absolute junk. Simply remove a window, pull back its siding the look inside its walls. Its fibreglass insulation is R3 (if it hasn't settled from road bounce) and NO vapour barrier either. Factories build as low quality as possible, then pocket extra savings into their bank account.
Many, many posts about "single pain window" problems, furnace can't produce enough heat, AC cannot produce enough cold air. Pipe keep freezing, windows have condensation, etc. etc Having bigger heating / cooling isn't the problem. The problem is lack in improper insulation, lack of double pain "energy efficient" windows. IMO, the trailer industry should build today's trailers like a "shed on wheels" with contractor grade spray foam and energy costs will be dramatically less. And use same materials that are proven to work in the housing industry.
Perhaps in time...
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batman99
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11/10/11 08:20pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Building a 5th wheel TT
If I built my own TT (TH or 5er) for my seasonal site, I would:
- Use existing TT steel frame / suspension.
- Use existing Tanks, LP, Furnance systems.
- Use 2x3s @ 12" apart studding and fill inner walls, floor and roof cavities with "contractor" grade 2lbs Closed Cell Spray Foam.
- Install higher roof (re: 8ft high)
- Install air flow ducts on ceiling surface (instead of in the roof cavity)
- Use normal house windows (double pane / PVC type).
- Use normal house door.
- Install low maintenance plastic siding.
For example...
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c7/Trailer-CG.jpg
This would work for me - at a seasonal site.
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batman99
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11/10/11 03:15pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: The two "Must Haves" in any RV tool box
For me, duct tape & vise grips. Was thinking duct tape and hammer but vise grips can be used as hammer as well. Thus, tape and vise grips would be my choice. re: http://www.irwin.com/tools/brands/vise-grip
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batman99
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11/09/11 09:59pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Slide out overide
On my Jayco, its slide motor has a shaft that goes across the entire motor. The one end of the motor's shaft has gears - to control the slide's position. The other end of this shaft has a octagon shape on it. It appears to be 3/4 or 7/8 socket size. Too awkward to connect a cordless drill with socket on it. But, enough room around the slide motor to attach a hand 90 degree rachet tool. If the 12V slide motor did blow, one can connect a manual racket or wrench to it.
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batman99
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11/09/11 07:06pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: New to us TV, ? re: trailer brakes
Me thinks you need to give more credit to your "certified mechanic" DH. If he's smart enough to become a certified auto repair specialst, then installing a new brake controller is "easy stuff" for him. Please, give him more credit. Especially if he always does high quality work....
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As a suggestion, he can simply call e-trailer @ 800-298-8924 and he can ask them what specific parts he needs - for that specific truck. If it were my "new" truck, I'd install brand new Brake Controller (and NOT transfer the Brake Controller from the older truck). Probably buy the Pridolgy P2 or P3 model. He can call e-trailer and they will provide the parts list (and selling prices) to him. He can then choose to buy from e-Trailer, or obtain the needed parts locally.
To install brake controller and its wiring within your new pickup, simply ask your DH to surf the many videos within - Click Here - Then, following the video for your specific vehicle.
Hope this helps...
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batman99
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11/08/11 12:35pm |
Travel Trailers
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