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Date Posted |
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
How will the marine fuel vent handle the acidic fumes from the battery
Not really sure. Guess I'll find out.
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WVvan
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04/20/12 08:36am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
House battery frame and venting, Post 7
After completing the venting lid with it's exhaust hose and enclosed fans there was the question about how to control the fans. I didn't want the fans running all the time since they would just drain the battery. If my only charging system was the alternator then I could power them from the running van but I'm going to have solar so that wasn't the answer. How about having the fans run when the batteries were above a certain voltage that would show they were being charged. That wouldn't work either since the resting voltage of the batteries will probably change as they age and anyway I'm not sure of the voltage level put out by the solar charger and how it will fluctuate with the sun.
I'm no expert on electronics but I have dabbled in them before so I went to Digikey and started searching around for something that might be used with a charging battery. I found the Maxim MAX4376. If I was reading it's datasheet correctly it might work. So ordered a couple.
Ran into the first problem. Here is a MAX4376 sitting on a penny. It's a really small surface component chip. Never messed with these before. Don't think I'll be able to solder on something that small.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-36-mj.jpg
So started searching online. Found a way to solder something this small. It involves solder paste and a electric skillet. So order some solder paste. The paste comes shipped with a ice pack to keep it cold so you store it in the fridge.
Also ordered a small circuit board that is made for this style chip. Put the paste on the circuit board pads then place the chip legs on top of the paste.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-37-mj.jpg
I used a dental pick to clean off the excess paste after taking the picture.
Next get an old electric skillet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-38-mj.jpg
The paste has a specific temperature versus time profile you're supposed to follow. Took me two tries to get it right.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-39-mj.jpg
It works. Here's the chip soldered into place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-40-mj.jpg
The circuit board is big enough for me to solder pins through the eight holes and use on a breadboard.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-47-mj.jpg
Here is my test rig. I have both a load on the battery and a charger connected.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-43-mj.jpg
I've got the chip mounted on a breadboard and connected to the battery via a sensing resistor as recommended in the datasheet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-48-mj.jpg
When the battery is under load but not charging the MAX4376 outputs a signal of .008 volts.
When charging the signal jumps to .021 volts. This value changes as the current into the battery changes. The signal voltage range can be changed with a different sensing resistor.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-43-mj.jpg
OK now that I have these value what do I do with them. Well I always wanted to learn about microcontrollers so these seems as good a time as any.
Here's the microcontroller I decided to learn on. It's an Atmel ATMEGA168P-20PU. A microcontroller is like a limited function computer. So a computer for $4.85 is a pretty good deal.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120419-24-mj.jpg
The low price is the good news. What's the bad news? The fact that I knew next to nothing on the subject of microcontrollers. At the beginning of the battery venting project I talked about hitting a slow patch. Well this is it. I had to learn a new whole subject. Here is a picture of all the manuals/info/tutorials I downloaded off the internet and printed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120419-25-mj.jpg
I won't say I've read everything in this stack but I've read most of it. And some of it more than once. This took weeks and weeks. I won't go into much detail about how microcontrollers work since this post is already pretty boring by now. Basically you write a computer program and load it into the microcontroller which tells it what to do then test it. If it doesn't work like expected you change the program and load it into the microcontroller again and see if it works. It can be very tedious so patience is required.
I'm writing the program in assembler language which is a type of computer code. I had a class in it once a long long time ago, back when dinosaurs ruled the earth, so that helped a little. By the way if you've seen the first "Terminator" movie you've seen assembler code. It's what scrolling up the screen when you see the world through the Terminators eyes. " Hey, buddy. You got a dead cat in there, or what?"
So I built a circuit on the breadboard that includes the microcontroller.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-44-mj.jpg
Add it to the rig and start testing it. After much work I got it to do what I want.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-45-mj.jpg
Here's a simplified version of what the microcontroller does in this setup.
Every 30 seconds check the output from the MAX4376 chip. Decide if the battery is charging. If it is then make sure the fans are on and functioning OK. Sound an alarm if there is a fan problem. When the battery stops charging run the fans for 5 more minutes so to be sure to purge any gas from the vent lid.
There's more to it than that but if anyone is interested in the gritty details they can PM me. If this one application was the only use I had for microcontrollers then this would have been overkill for just the vent fans but there are several different projects I have in mind. This just gave me a good excuse to finally buckle down and tackle the subject.
Haven't built the final version of the circuit board that incorporates everything yet but I'm far enough along to be sure I can get it done. It won't be needed until I can get the house batteries charging system in place. So I'll stop posting on the battery venting project until then. Next posting I start on something else.
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WVvan
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04/20/12 08:33am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
House battery frame and venting, Post 6
With the vent fan enclosure done next up is the vent outlet. Here's what I bought to be the outlet on the side of the van. It came from a online marine store. It fits a 5/8" ID hose.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-130-mj.jpg
First decide where I want to mount it on the side of the van. It has to be higher than the level of the batteries but not too much higher to keep the hose run as short as possible. It's a trade off. It also has to be where the inside of the outer "skin" of the van can be reached so I can tighten the nut on the vent fitting.
Here's a picture of the inside of the van shortly after I bought it. Look just above and to the right of the fuel intake "hump". There is a roughly oval shaped indentation on the inside metal framework. That's the area I'm aiming for.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/090814-08-m.jpg
Here's that same area with the insulation in place. I've already drilled a pilot hole in the location I picked.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-126-mj.jpg
The view from the outside of the van. Having cut and drilled so many times on this van already it shouldn't be that big a deal putting another hole in the side but there's still plenty of trepidation before starting the drill.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-127-mj.jpg
Use the hole saw sized for the vent fitting and drill through the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-128-mj.jpg
On the inside of the van I'd cut the insulation before drilling but it was still in the way.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-131-mj.jpg
Perfect use for a couple binder clips.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-132-mj.jpg
Need to drill a hole on the inside metal framework layer that will allow me to work on the vent nut so size the hole saw to the nut.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-133-mj.jpg
Mistake. I should have used the pilot hole as a guide for the larger inside hole before drilling through the outer skin. Without the pilot hole to keep the drill centered I tried to hold the drill steady. The scratches in the metal show I wasn't totally successful at keeping it centered.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-134-mj.jpg
Here's the fitting in place and tightened down. There is enough room between the fitting and the edges of the hole in the metal framework to work needle-nosed pliers. In this picture the scratches have already been painted over.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-135-mj.jpg
The view from outside. I used silicone II on the hole edges before tightening to try and keep it watertight.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-137-mj.jpg
The vent hose attached to the inside of the vent fitting. The green hose in this picture has been changed out for heater hose which has a thicker wall and is less apt to kink.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-16-mj.jpg
The vent hose attached to the fan enclosure on the vent lid. In this picture you can see how the top of the lid is angled so the hydrogen will rise towards the fan enclosure end.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-32-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-33-mj.jpg
Here's an example of serendipity. I originally was going to have the bungee hold downs on each end of the lid but the fit is too tight between this end and the sofa-bed end. So moved the hold-down to the front of the lid at that corner. Started thinking about how to create an attachment point when I noticed my far less than perfect welding on the battery frame had created a little spur. The hold down hook fits it perfectly.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-30-mj.jpg
continued -
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WVvan
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04/17/12 05:22pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
House battery frame and venting, Post 5
Need to add vent fans to the lid. Even though hydrogen is lighter than air and should naturally flow out if the vent outlet is higher than the inlet I want to give it some assistance. The amount of hydrogen gas produced by a charging battery at any one time is fairly small so I won't have to move a great deal of air. I'll be using small 12 volt "muffin" fans. This is a induction type fan so it has no brushes that might produce electrical sparks like a regular motor.
I'll make the fan enclosure from some scrap pieces of plexiglass. Create a mock up from cardboard first.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-118-j.jpg
Then use some smoking matches to see if it will really move air through a hose. It does.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-119-j.jpg
Start work on the plexiglass version. As an added safety feature stack wire mesh to create a flame arrestor between the fans and the inside of the vent lid.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-121-j.jpg
Countersink the edges of the hole then sandwich the wire mesh between two plexiglass pieces. The countersinking allows the two pieces to be in contact over their length with the wire between. This will be the base of the fan enclosure.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-122-j.jpg
Start cutting and drilling plexiglass pieces as I come up with a design.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-123-j.jpg
While most of the enclosure is glued together I want to be able to replace the fans if needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-138-j.jpg
Drill and countersink holes for nuts.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-143-j.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-144-j.jpg
Starting to take shape.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-145-mj.jpg
Added small rectangular pieces to the inside to keep the fans in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-146-j.jpg
Use a bead of silicone around the edges of the fans to increase air flow. Then do the same to the edges where the enclosure screws together.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-148-j.jpg
Completed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-152-mj.jpg
Hook it up to a power supply to check that the fans run and I didn't gum them up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-153-mj.jpg
Attach a length of hose and see if it will move some air.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-149-j.jpg
It does. It will almost blow out a lit match.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-151-j.jpg
Figure out where to position it on the lid.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-02-j.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-05-j.jpg
Add connectors to clean up the wires.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-06-j.jpg
Use a bead of silicone where the fan will bolt to the vent lid.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-24-j.jpg
Here's the view from inside the lid looking into the fan enclosure before I cleaned out the excess silicone. Am I the only one who thinks this looks like a jellyfish?
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-25-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-27-j.jpg
This is the original vent lid I made for the first battery box. I'm about to use a hacksaw to remove the bungee cord hold downs from the lid ends.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-28-j.jpg
Success.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-29-j.jpg
Here they are attached to the new lid.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-30-j.jpg
continued -
On a different note this is what I've been working on today. The kitchen cabinet is starting to take shape.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120413-03-m.jpg
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WVvan
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04/14/12 09:40am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
a meeting and photo opportunity with Mary-Lou Bialoski, Kielbasa Queen of the Allegheny Plateau.
Hey Mau Mau,
New Hampshire is listed as your current location yet you write like a native. Did you used to live around these parts?
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WVvan
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04/14/12 09:39am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Maptester nailed it! Just heard back from the Forest Service. It's a remote rain gauge. Remote being the operative word since it's at least a two hour hike from the closest road to reach it. Of course if it was closer to a road some yahoo with a gun would have shot it up by now.
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WVvan
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04/09/12 01:55pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
His isn't the only one:
The Greenbrier Bunker
In the late 1950s, the U.S. government approached The Greenbrier for assistance in creating a secret emergency relocation center to house Congress in the aftermath of a nuclear holocaust. The classified, underground facility, named "Project Greek Island" was built at the same time as the West Virginia Wing, an above-ground addition to the hotel, from 1959 to 1962.
Although the bunker was kept stocked with supplies for 30 years, it was never actually used as an emergency location, even during the Cuban Missile Crisis. The bunker's existence was not acknowledged until Ted Gup of the The Washington Post revealed it in a 1992 story; immediately after the Post story, the government decommissioned the bunker. The facility has since been renovated and is also used as a data storage facility for the private sector. It is featured as an attraction in which visitors can tour the now declassified facilities, known as The Bunker.
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WVvan
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04/09/12 01:24pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
All work and no play makes Hal angry so time for a weekend in the woods.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120408-14-m.jpg
Thought I'd hike up a mountain and look for it's benchmark. There wasn't a trail but I knew I was getting close when I saw this. An old fire tower foundation. These are usually near the highest point.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120408-30-mj.jpg
Found it. GPS makes finding these a lot easier.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120408-38-mj.jpg
I'm at the top of Mozark Mt.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120408-35-mj.jpg
Looking for benchmarks is something I like to do when I'm hiking around. Here's a web page I previously created about them.
What is a Benchmark?
It got down into the 30's both nights I was out but with the Webasto heater I was snug as can be.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120408-52-mj.jpg
On the right side of the above picture you can see the first iteration of my kitchen cabinet. This is just the framework with a plywood top but it gave me a chance to test out the size. Some adjustments are needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120408-56-mj.jpg
While hiking I came upon this. Anyone know what it is?
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120408-41-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120408-42-mj.jpg
It has a small solar panel but no markings of any kind. Just curious.
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WVvan
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04/08/12 10:19pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
do you think the "revenooers" in your mountains will ever look there?
Considering the history of these here parts that would have been an actual concern a few decades ago. ;)
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WVvan
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04/03/12 08:16pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Hey QJane,
Jump in anytime. The more info the better. That's the whole purpose of this thread.
On a different subject, a photo from tonight. I've added leds to the basement.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120402-02-mj.jpg
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WVvan
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04/02/12 08:43pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I didn't get my LSD for winter driving so I couldn't say but It's been worth the money for me. Saved me from getting towed out at least once in the middle of nowhere.
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WVvan
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04/02/12 08:28am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Hey Guyg,
I've been needing to add an external power connection but couldn't come up with a location I liked. Kept putting it off but almost at the point where it must be done before the build can proceed. As soon as I read your post I had an epiphany. You had picked the perfect location. Well almost perfect since I'm using the port side.
First thing this A.M. I got to work on it. All done:
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120401-52-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120401-49-j.jpg
You now have ownership of this part of the build. :)
Thanks Mau Mau,
No doubt I'll be going camping in the van soon. I'm thinking of some temporary shelving until I get permanent ones built. Not sure what you're asking about cold weather but I don't camp in the winter. People with the pop-ups who do write about lining the inside of the canvas with reflectix to help keep the heat in.
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WVvan
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04/01/12 08:36pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
House battery frame and venting, Post 4
With the frame for the batteries done, cut a couple rectangles from a block of nylon.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-004-j.jpg
Drill a hole in the nylon blocks and use them as hold downs for the batteries. I used nylon since it is nonconducting.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-067-mj.jpg
Upgrade the battery caps to Water Miser Vent Caps. $3.77 each. The caps are supposed to reduce the frequency of adding water to the cells along with some other features. One advantage is they have a flip top so don't have to worry about taking the caps on and off to check fluid levels.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-109-mj.jpg
Install the batteries and sofa-bed then take the van out for a late fall camping trip.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111108-45-mj.jpg
The wiring in this photo is of a temporary nature. I had the inverter and furnace running off the batteries without any charging wiring hooked up. Since I wasn't charging the batteries I didn't have to worry about venting.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-110-mj.jpg
The advantage of four batteries is that they still read 12+ volts at the end of the weekend without charging.
Back at the garage workshop build a wooden safety block for the top of the empty frame.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-116-mj.jpg
With those two bolts extending upward from the battery frame it would be just like me to stumble while working in the van and impale myself on them. The wooden top should prevent that. The impaling not the stumbling.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-117-mj.jpg
Next up build a plexiglass lid for the top of the batteries.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-111-mj.jpg
I built this using the same methods as when I made the lid for the previous wooden battery box.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-115-mj.jpg
The lid will collect for venting the hydrogen gas produced when the batteries are charging.
continued-
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WVvan
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03/28/12 08:17am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
House battery frame and venting, Post 3
In the last post I showed a copper bolt attached to the van floor that was going to be used as a grounding point. A couple of people pointed out that the bolt should also be grounded to the frame. That made sense so in the last couple of days took care of it. And surprise, surprise. I have pictures!
Ordered a two foot length of 1 inch wide flexible grounding strap from McMaster-Carr. It's $4.80 per foot. Listed as comparable to 1 AWG. It's probably overkill but at that price, why not.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-54-mj.jpg
Once more unto the breach, dear friends. It's back under the van I go.
You can see the copper bolt on the left. I want the grounding strap to run from it to...
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-56-mj.jpg
...the frame beam here on the right. The bolt end won't be a problem but the frame end will. One problem is the emergency brake cables. Nothing I add should interfere with them.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-57-mj.jpg
Another problem is that the gas tank is right up close to the other side of the frame beam.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-58-mj.jpg
And on the inside of the beam are vent lines that run to the emissions canister. Between the vent lines and the gas tank It's impossible to get my hand up behind the frame beam to do any work.
Need an anchor point for the frame end of the grounding strap. With the gas tank and vent line in the way, drilling a new hole is out of the question. Have to make use of one of the holes already in place.
This picture is looking straight up from under the van. The best candidate seems to be the slot you can see to the right of the painted over bolt.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-59-mj.jpg
By the way, thought of using the painted over bolt but once I got to working on it found it so rusted it would probably shear off before coming loose. Then I'd have a new problem so let it be.
The slot is just big enough, and I do mean just, to get a small length of angle iron through. Use the angle iron as backing for a nut. Slide it through the slot then rotate 90 degrees. This will hold the nut in place. That solves the problem of not being able to get my hand back there. Cut and drill the angle iron then weld on a nut for a 3/8" bolt.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-60-mj.jpg
Prep the ends of the grounding strap. Cut out a strip from a piece of .0162" thick copper sheet I had on hand.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-71-mj.jpg
Wrap the copper around the strap then crimp the end.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-72-mj.jpg
Fold over the crimp.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-73-mj.jpg
Apply flux to the end of the strap where it enters the copper end. Use a propane torch and solder to seal where the two meet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-78-mj.jpg
Drill a hole for the bolt and do a test fit under the van before trimming the strap length. Then do the other end.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-65-mj.jpg
Want to make sure there is good electrical contract to the frame so need to do some work around the slot. No room to get my usual favorite metal cleaning tool, angle grinder with wire wheel, up in there so used a flat bastard file instead. And yes, it's really called that.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-74-mj.jpg
Took some upside down elbow grease but I got all the old undercoating and rustproofing from around the part of the slot that the strap will contact.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-75-mj.jpg
Next used sandpaper to get a clean surface. After that it was as simple as bolting each end in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-79-m.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-80-m.jpg
OK, that last line was a lie. When maneuvering the angle iron with the welded on nut into place it fell in between the beam and the vent lines. Much cursing ensued. Luckily one of my tools is a magnet mounted on the end of a goose-neck style rod. Even with that it took at least 15 minutes to fish it out.
continued
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WVvan
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03/15/12 10:49pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
How many total amps will you have with your new battery bank and what type of converter will you be using to charge them?
Not sure on the total amps but I believe my batteries are similar to this model from Trojan Battery (link).
I have a Samlex charger but since I rarely setup camp near a plug I'll mainly use solar panels and the van's own charging system.
I noticed that the battery bank will be directly behind your seat. Will there be enough weight on the right side of the vehicle to off-set this?
The "kitchen" and all drinking and waste water will be on the opposite side so I'm hoping that balances it out.
Will you be installing a Trimetric battery monitor (or similar) to keep track of your battery usage?
I have a couple simple digital displays for battery volts and amps. Will be using that to keep an eye on things but nothing I'd call a true monitor.
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WVvan
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03/11/12 10:31pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Strongly advise you to add a grounding strap to the frame (not just the body).
Good suggestion. I can see the logic in that.
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WVvan
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03/10/12 10:56am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Thanks Van. Good to be posting again. My didactic nature makes for tedious company but it's well suited for the internet.
Careful Mau Mau. You'll blow my cover! ;)
House battery frame and venting, Post 2
With the battery frame in place on the van floor I figured out the best places to locate four bolts that will hold it in place. This required locating the frame's exact position while under the van to be sure the drilled holes won't conflict with something else.
Once I was sure of everything drill the holes in the frame. Use pilot holes then work up to full sized ones.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-038-mj.jpg
I'm using four bolts to be sure the frame stays put. In a sudden stop all that battery mass is going to want to keep moving.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-039-mj.jpg
A few things had to be done before the frame could be bolted into place. First the extra fuel tank for the heater had to be dropped part way down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-034-mj.jpg
This was for safety reasons since I'd be drill through the floor right above the tank and also accessing the bolt hardware will be easier with it partially lowered. Just had to loosen everything up and drop one end of the tank. The fuel line wasn't disconnected.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-033-m.jpg
One end of the underfloor conduit had to be moved a few inches to clear the battery frame..
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-025-mj.jpg
By now I'm getting pretty good at making and patching holes in the van floor. Notice the small hole just to the left of the new conduit location.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-026-mj.jpg
This is one of those loose ends I'd planned to get back around to sometime. Now's the time. The hole is for the wire that runs to the fuel tank sending unit. It's hard to see in the picture but I've added a rubber grommet to the the hole. The grommet protects the wires from the sharp edges. The hole is sized to match the grommet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-049-mj.jpg
Found that trying to bolt the frame through the van floor wasn't one of those job I could do by myself.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-043-mj.jpg
Hey Bob. You'll give me some help right?
Bob.... Bob, where are you going? Darn cat!
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-052-mj.jpg
Luckily my neighbor came over and lent a hand.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-050-mj.jpg
With the four bolts in place this thing is rock solid.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-066-mj.jpg
Since I was already messing around under the van might as well tackle a couple other projects. Drill (another) hole in the van floor then use a wire wheel to remove the paint from around the hole.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-044-mj.jpg
Add a copper bolt, nut and washer. I removed the paint to get good conductivity to the van body. I'll be using this bolt like a grounding rod for the electrical system.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-046-mj.jpg
Another loose end. When I installed the protective shield below the extra fuel tank I used these industrial strength cable ties. Now seemed like a good time to upgrade to something more permanent.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110321-41-mj.jpg
Cut out two strips from a sheet of 16 gauge steel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-053-mj.jpg
Use a hammer and a vise to put a nice 90 degree bend in the ends of the strips.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-057-mj.jpg
Hand bend the strip into a somewhat round band just by eyeballing it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-056-mj.jpg
Check how the bands fit around the tank and shield.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-055-mj.jpg
Drill holes in the band ends then bolt them up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-058-mj.jpg
Looks good.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-060-mj.jpg
Prime and paint the metal bands. What the heck, I'm in a painting mood. Brighten up the shield while I'm at it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-113-mj.jpg
continued
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WVvan
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03/10/12 09:08am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Technical note:
Be sure you individually fuse each battery at the terminal.
If you ever have a short / crash causing short, that will be your ignition source.
I'll have to think on that. I was planning on fusing both serial sets but not each individual battery.
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WVvan
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03/08/12 10:23am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
House battery frame and venting.
Not yet finished this next project but am far enough along to where I'm going to start posting about it. Hit a real slow patch which I'll go into in more detail when the postings get to it.
For the house batteries using four Energizer GC2 6 volt golf cart batteries bought at Sam's Club for around $71 each. These are the lead-acid flooded cell type. Need to create a way to secure the house batteries inside the van along with a way to vent the hydrogen gas lead-acid batteries emit while charging. Had previously built a wooden box for the batteries along with a Plexiglass vent lid back in February of 2010. Here's a link to the older project.
Considering that I've taken up welding since then, thought about revisiting this design and making the battery holder from metal. In the original battery box the four cells where in a single row with long sides adjacent.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/100324-22-j.jpg
After some reflection decide to reconfigure the battery layout into two rows instead of one. Like this.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-002-mj.jpg
Welded the framework from a combination of 3/4" and 1" angle iron.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-005-mj.jpg
The batteries will be lowered into the frame. It's not a tight fit in case the batteries expand with age. The frame will bolted to the van floor so there is no bottom. To help hold the batteries in place welded a couple of inverted bolts to the top of the frame.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-007-mj.jpg
A better design would have been to drill holes into the angle iron and weld nuts underneath. Didn't feel the 3/4" angle iron I was using was wide enough to allow a hole for the bolt without weakening it. If I'd used 1" instead it would have worked. Too late to increase the size without cutting on the already finished frame. Live and learn.
Welded a washer onto each outer short edge near the bottom. This will be used for the vent lid bungee cords.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-006-mj.jpg
Prime and paint.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-009-j.jpg
Next up is to find the exact location where I'll be installing it on the floor. It's position relative to the sofa-bed is crucial. The gas tank filler hose hump placement also came into play.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-010-mj.jpg
I have a layer of rigid foam beneath the wooden floor for insulation. I didn't want the batteries on top of this layer so I decided to cut a hole in the wooden floor and foam layer for the batteries and the frame. This way they will sit directly on the rubber mat layer.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-013-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-014-mj.jpg
Also removed a bit of flooring between the battery frame and the van wall.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-016-mj.jpg
Good fit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-017-mj.jpg
As usual I was under direct supervision while working.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-018-m.jpg
continued:
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WVvan
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03/08/12 09:03am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Thanks Rob but I think you're giving me too much credit. I'm just making it up as I go.
Side Window Framing continued:
Next job is to cover the panel with the blue velour fabric I bought from Sportsmobile. This one will be more difficult from the other panels because of the window opening. I sacrificed a section of fabric working out how to do the opening.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-42-mj.jpg
Probably the best way to do this would involve a sewing machine and some skills I don't have. Instead I did it this way. Cover each of the inside corners with cloth and glue down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-49-mj.jpg
To get the cloth to lie flat on the inside corner there has to be several radial cuts.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-47-mj.jpg
Glue down the fabric making sure there are no wrinkles.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-57-mj.jpg
Cut around the window opening leaving 2" - 3" of border. Make three cuts at each corner. Don't cut too far in.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-58-mj.jpg
Glue and tape the straight sections of the window opening. Use the tape to pull the cloth so there are no wrinkles.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-60-mj.jpg
Carefully glue and tape each of the inside corner wedges. Don't get any contact cement on the visible parts. Again use the tape to pull cloth tight.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-61-mj.jpg
Wait a day for the contact cement to dry then remove all tape. Everything was secure. I'm not 100% happy with this method but it does work. The cuts in the corners blend in with the previously attached cloth to where you don't see them unless you look for them.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-63-mj.jpg
Looking ahead a bit, I've used cut out panels of Reflectix as window shades before want to try something different. To attach my new style shades to this window I'm going to use magnets embedded in the panel. For this to work very strong magnets are needed. I happen to have a source close at hand.
If you're like me, and I'm sure you are, there are a bunch of old computer hard drives just laying around.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-73-mj.jpg
If you disassemble those drives, among the various parts you'll find metal platters and very strong rare earth magnets.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-74-mj.jpg
Each drive will have a pair of magnets mounted within brackets like these. Size and shape will depend upon the drive model and manufacturer.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-75-mj.jpg
Carefully pry the magnets from the brackets. Here is an example of how strong they are.
The only thing holding them in place on each side of my fingers is magnetic attraction.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-76-mj.jpg
Don't let your fingers get in the way if a pair start to snap together. It will hurt.
Take four of the magnets. One for each corner. If the magnets in this picture weren't attached to the metal table they would flying towards each other.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-44-mj.jpg
On the back of the panel cut away a small square of foam insulation to expose the back of the fiberboard. Glue the magnet to the fiberboard then plug the hole with the trimmed down piece of foam that was removed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-45-mj.jpg
That's the end of the prep work for the window panel. Screw it into place in the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-77-mj.jpg
To cover up the screw heads I ordered some sample colored caps from a company called Pro-Dec Products.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-71-mj.jpg
Color #146 seems to be the closest.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-65-mj.jpg
Here's how it looks with the colored caps installed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120116-78-mj.jpg
That finishes the work on the window panel. I still have to re-epoxy the anchor square tube when warm weather arrives. Like I wrote before I'm not 100% happy with the panel and may redo it sometime. It will do for now.
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WVvan
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01/23/12 08:49am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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