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RE: I'm looking for an OBDII reader......
If you have an android phone... about $25 for a bluetooth odb adapter, and $5 for the "torque" app lets you view and clear codes, view live data,
record, etc. torque-bhp.com
I use that in one of my vehicles, and a ver1 scan gauge in the truck.
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TeamSlacker
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03/12/12 11:11am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Sulphation/Desulphation
I have actually used it on my grp27 battery for the trailer. The 100w limit with a 12v agm battery allows about a 7-7.5 amp discharge. The spec sheet for my battery shows 102ah at the 20hour rate (20.4amps). I only tested the battery once when it was already about 5yrs old and got 97ah out of it at 7amp discharge.
Yes, unless you buy the amplifier you can't fully test the large batteries, but at least it gives me an idea where it's at and I can test it yearly.
I mainly use it for the RC batteries also.
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TeamSlacker
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11/24/11 09:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Sulphation/Desulphation
I've been using a WestMountainRadio CBA III to test batteries. Plug into a USB port on your PC, and it will apply a load to the battery under test and graph/save the results. You can test the battery when new, save the graph, and test it down the road and overlay the graphs to see how it's holding up.
For charging I've been using a BatteryMinder 12248.
Claims full time desulphate charging, verdict is still out on whether or not it's actually doing that for me. But it is a good charger and I'm planing on buying a second.
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TeamSlacker
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11/24/11 08:57am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Magna 3300 Generator
Think I've mentioned this in the other thread, but make sure you buy from someone with good exchange/warranty policy.. Seems like you either get a good one and it'll keep going for ya. Or you get a DOA and need to fix it.
Parts are out there if you look but I haven't found a good hassle free source yet.
Having said that, my inverter module flaked out within a few hours, found a new module, it was doa, got a second module and it worked and is still running good.
Home Depot is selling these under the Lifan brand and 3 yr warranty, might be your best bet.
NorthernTool has them under the Powerhouse brand.
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TeamSlacker
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11/18/11 01:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Generator purchase-hindsight is 20/20
Anyone local that wants to get rid of their chinese 'garbage' send it my way :)
I've been enjoying the challenge repairing imported motorsports stuff that other shops wont touch.
I think Pappappy hit the nail on the head, consistency between units seems to be an issue with some brands. So if you are buying the imports, look for the best warranty/exchange policy so you can return it if you get a 'bad' one.
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TeamSlacker
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09/20/11 06:57am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Honeywell GEn repair or Sell for parts????
Need to tear it apart and check for AC off the stator windings. If no AC there, probably a stator winding issue. If you have around 200 or 300 VAC (not sure on the honeywell) at the three windings, then odds are the inverter module is dead.
There is also probably a subwinding coming off the stator which iirc is around 50vac.
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TeamSlacker
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09/19/11 07:54am |
Tech Issues
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RE: ETQ Generator
No experience with the 3500i, I had the 800i version. Small, light, worked good, pretty quiet. It wasn't very good with inrush surge, a 500w halogen lamp would trip it into OL most of the time. The rubber gasket in the fuel cap disentigrated, and the priming pump built into the cap quit working, but the pump wasn't needed for starting it anyway. I called cust serv and a new cap was available for $5.
I ended up selling that one, and bought the 1800i.
The 1800i isn't much heavier/bigger, but more watts. Got this one for a deal on CL, just needed a little tune up. Working great so far except the oil level sensor is 'touchy'. I had it running tire warmers and with the thermostat turning the warmers on/off and the generator sitting in the grass, it would 'rock' a little ever time it loaded up. This little movement was occasionally enough to trip the low oil shutdown even though the level was fine. I ended up just disconnecting the low oil sensor since I check it often anyway.
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TeamSlacker
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08/31/11 09:57am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chinese generator review
ya that doesn't sound right, when I first tried adjusting mine I used the inverter module that is not working properly anyway (eco mode doesn't work on that module, and didn't want to kill my good module). I was able to go way over 30amps before the motor started laboring hard.
On a related note, once in a while when I try to start the air cond with eco ON, it will drag the motor and stop. Thats when the electric/remote start is nice.
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TeamSlacker
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08/25/11 09:49am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chinese generator review
My fluke doesn't read the inrush, the 60amps is just what the manual says, so I'm not sure what the exact startup current is on the air cond compressor.
Building a fixture with some 200w bulbs is a good idea, I just didn't want to mess with that and used what I had around.
Getting my air cond started is basically just shutting off all breakers except air cond. Turn temp dial to hot, turn fan dial to low speed to get the fan started, then turn temp to cold to get the compressor kicked in. Works most of the time even in eco mode. If not I turn temp back to hot, the gen resets itself air cond fan will start back up, once the fan is up to speed I turn the temp back to cold to kick in the compressor.
My air cond has a factory start cap, I added a supco spp6, didn't seem to make any difference even on shore power. I might try a a 6e instead.
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TeamSlacker
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08/24/11 10:52am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chinese generator review
Since this involves potentially lethal voltages, will problably void any warantee you have, I am only explaining what I did, and not offering any advice on what others should do.
I'll see if I can explain this without pictures.
I removed the elec panel (6 phillips screws iirc), then remove the plastic shroud (half dozen or so 8or10mm iirc) so you are looking at the recoil end. You'll have to remove the inverter module from the chassis. Some of the screws holding the inverter module might have grounding wires connected also. You'll need to make sure all these grounds are hooked up again for the test/adjust.
You should be able to lay the inverter heatsink side down, with all wires attached, right next to the generator. Along side of this the wires to the front panel should be long enough to have the panel set next to it.
Bascially, all wiring will be connected, but the inverter and front panel will be laying there instead of attached to chassis.
The service manual has a diagram of the inverter module with 4 10turn potentiometers labeled. When you look at your inverter module, they may have small gobs of black silicon stuff on them to prevent adjustment that you'll have to remove. The OL pot is near a round ferite core in the inverter mod.
There is two white wires that run from inverter module to the front panel AC jacks. You'll see one of those wires runs thru that ferrite core on the inverter module. I used a Fluke Clamp on amp meter around that same wire that goes thru the ferrite core, and connected it near there.
For loads I used an assortment of what I had to include: My trailer plugged into the 30amp outlet, with my AC heater strip running. Also used a 500w halogen lamp, some other 100w lamps, and I have a ceramic heater that I've noticed starts at about 900w and increases to 1200 or 1300w (iirc) as it warms up. So that ceramic heater worked as a nice 'last' load to add so the current would increase and I'd monitor where it tripped.
Like I mentioned above, when I first tested, it was tripping OL at less than 2000w. I would basically adjust that 10 turn pot a little, and figured out which way I needed to turn it, then just used the various loads until I saw it trip OL at around 3kw. You can check your voltage at the outlets to see if it is exaclty 120v (I don't remember where mine was), and then yes just do the math for how many amps to watch for on the amp meter.
As a side note, unless you have a amp meter that is designed to read inrush current, that 38.5a you saw probably wasn't all of it! The owners manual of my dometic AC unit I think listed the locked rotor amps at 60amps.
Also I think I explained this above, this genset seems to have 2 modes of OL. One a short 'inrush' surge, sends the gen to OL, it idles down like in econ mode, and then after a few seconds resets itself and will go back to full rpm's if you have eco off and the ac power turns back on.
The other OL mode, ie I added resistive loads until reaching 3kw, would trip the OL, the LED would blink and it would not reset itself, you have to turn the gen off and restart it to reset. If you air cond is causing the first mode where it resets itself, I don't think doing this adjustment above will help.
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TeamSlacker
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08/24/11 08:45am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chinese generator review
I found the manuals on the powerhouse website
http://www.powerhouse-products.com/Support.aspx?d=Powerhouse%20Generator%20Manuals
Do you know if your Coleman AC has a start capacitor installed at all? If not you might need one, there is also a note about this in the 'service bulletin' section on the above link.
I wouldn't do the adjustment that I did, unless you have applied a non-surge, resistive load bank and verified it's tripping into overload before reaching 3kw.
As another follow up, I think I was mistaken on what I thought was metal in the first oil change. I dumped a little out the other night and let it sit on a white coffee filter. What looked like little silver specs, when I looked close at them, moved and dissappeared...bubbles.
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TeamSlacker
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08/18/11 02:38pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chinese generator review
Here's my review of the SF3600.
I picked up one of these units on line. Showed up, filled with fuel/oil and started right up. I tested it with AC in trailer (15k dometic/duo therm) and it worked. Did the sound test with other genset's as listed in previous post. I was happy with about 1 hour on it. Fired it up one day and rather than starting at idle speed, it raced to probably 5k or something. I thought maybe the throttle butterfly stuck, so moved it by hand, re-started and it was fine. Turns out this was a symptom of the inverter module going bad. Ocassionally on starts it would not produce any power. Sometimes it would produce power for a couple minutes and no more output.
Emailed seller, they didn't want to fix it and just wanted to refund my money, claimed they couldn't get parts. I liked the unit and wanted to prove them wrong.
So I found someone selling parts, ordered a 'used/pulled' inverter module that was to be tested before shipping. Got it installed, sure it produced power, but the ECO switch didn't work, ran at full throttle all the time. Seller admited he didn't test that function. Finally got them to send me a new inverter, and so far so good. Working as is should. It has some issues with my 15k AC, but will start it most of the time even with ECO mode on. Just have to turn off other AC breakers off untill compressor is running, then I can turn the other breakers back on and run other stuff. With just the AC running the generator idles down a bit.
With this new inverter module I wasn't able to draw 3kw without it triping overlead, even with resistive loads. It tripped pretty low, like 2kw or something, I forget. So, in the process of my troubleshooting, found the service manual, and figured out the adjustments on the inverter and reset it so I wouldn't trip on resistive loads until I hit a little over 3kw.
This unit seems to have 2 overload modes. If the surge from my AC trips the OL, it will idle back down and reset itself in a couple seconds. If I put resistive loads on it until it hit 3kw and triped OL, then you actually had to shut the genset completely off to reset it. I've noticed, I think the Lifan or PowerHouse version has a 'reset' button on the front panel for OL.
I did my first oil change at 25 hours or so, it seemed like there was a bit more 'shine' from the metalic parts than I'd like to have seen in the oil. I put syth in it and will change it again soon to see if it looks better this time.
So after all this I still like this genset and plan on keeping it. I must admit I like the 'thrill of the chase' more than just 'using' a generator lol
On a side note, I've also recently bought a Boliy 3600. So when I have a little free time I plan on doing the same sound test with that one. It also has a little trouble starting the AC in my trailer.
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TeamSlacker
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08/16/11 07:40am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chinese generator review
Bill H, I have one of these "SF3600" units also, I posted a sound test I did in the 'chinese 3000 watt generator' thread back a few pages.
*edit* Page 936 about half way down.
I found the Honda eu2k 51dBa at the lowest, and 62 at the highest (exhaust side, eco off)
This SF3600 unit was 54 on same quietest side as the Honda, and 64 on the exh with eco off.
Averaging all 4 sides, no load/500w/eco off on all sides the Honda averaged 55.3dBa, the SF3600 is 59.08
I have not had as good of luck with mine as Ib is, I'll post up later with the story.
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TeamSlacker
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08/12/11 08:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
As I have trumpeted before, count on Chinese built units in this power class with a 196 to 205 cc engine to actually be a dependable 2,800 watt generator. While higher power is available, it cannot be depended upon for sustained output in high temperatures without increasing the probability of AVR or other component failure.
Just to add a little tuba to the prof's trumpet.
(at least in the earlier 3000+ w listed ratings)
I have 2 dead gen's in my garage, One is the 'PowerWise3500' purchased back on page 1 of this thread. The stator has a sticker on it "2.8kw 60hz 120v"
I also have my brothers "Wen" brand 3500w. The stator on that one is ingraved with a bunch of numbers to include something like: 28kw120v240v60hz (followed by a few more numbers)
For the record, both are dead with bad rotors. One has an open winding, the other has a winding shorted to ground somewhere. I was going to hand rewind them just for fun, until I counted turns and measured and realized it was going to be at least $50 for a roll of copper wire to do it.
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TeamSlacker
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07/27/11 07:14am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Generac ix2000 Inverter Generator Review
robby9, I have the ETQ version (actually 2, the 800 and 1800w)
The 800 version, I pulled the case apart and coated the inside panels with a couple cans of rubberized undercoating, before and after tests showed it lowered spl by 2-3db on each side. I'm thinking of doing the same to the 1800w.
I noticed the rattle on my access panel of the 1800w also. I took 2 small piecse of weather stripping and pressed it into the groove/seal of the panel and it quit.
I also did sound tests on a few gens including the Honda eu2k, see page 936 of the 3000w Chinese generator thread for the chart/results.
I have about 30 hours on the 800w now and it's been working good. I just got the 1800w so not many hours yet.
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TeamSlacker
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06/03/11 07:12am |
Tech Issues
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