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RE: Newbie Question About Towing With a DP
Here is a little more info about towing and safety
Good reading...
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TDInewguy
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05/22/12 03:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Looking for a Used DP, $100K range
Here is a little more info for ya...
Tow hitch safety
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TDInewguy
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05/22/12 03:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Newbie Question About Towing With a DP
You can read what I just posted over here:
Towing with a DP
Make sure you get a good brake controller - my favorite is the Tekonsha Prodigy. it's about $100-150
And as for the issue of a frame not being able to handle it - i'd say on most gassers - yes, as some of the mfr's extend the frame of the coach to hold the bedroom or the like, DP's frames need to hold the engine and transmission - which is a LOT of weight...
The limitation on MOST is what transmission you have. If you have the Allison 3000 or similar it will handle it. The Allison 1000, 2000 or 2500 are really only rated for a 5000lb tow rating.
Go ahead and read my post above and make sure you do your research.
As for power - that really is only a concern if your trailer is larger than your coach (think wind sail behind you) or your speed going up hills. My engine is 330HP and while I use all of it - my cruise power needed is about 80-120HP. Going up the hills I use it all. (I have a Silverleaf engine computer that tells me the engine HP and Torque output in real time)
My coach is about 25,000lbs and trailer is about 10,000lbs... so 35,000lbs with 330HP is just fine IMHO. Would I like 400HP or more, sure but it's not really going to get me anywhere faster... or save me money...
Just enjoy the journey!
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TDInewguy
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05/22/12 10:47am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Looking for a Used DP, $100K range
Towing - that is what you are concerned about I see -
So to get a 10K hitch - it means you need to have the Allison 3000 or larger transmission, as the smaller Allisons are not rated for heavy towing.
As for length - you need to look at the wheelbase of your RV - as a really short wheelbase is not a great match for towing a large or heavy trailer. There are a LOT of 36' coaches out there, and the 35' "limit" is not a real hard/fast limit. I've gotten my 39 1/2' coach into just about any park I go to.
Make sure you also carefully look at the tongue weight rating of your hitch assembly. My old hitch (which was removed and replaced) had a 500lb tongue weight rating... and towing 10,000lbs - I need to have 1000-1500lbs of tongue weight to have a trailer that won't sway. (again ask how I know!) Trailer sway can kill - it is hard to control if you don't know what you are doing.
So having the proper setup is critical for safety.
I bought a Itasca Horizon (same as Winnebago Journey) with a Freightliner chassis. The hitch was a 10K hitch as I said, but upon deep research - the Freightliner chassis can support a much higher tow rating - as they state the tow rating is based on the HITCH that is installed. (and the coach MFR's idea of what they want to rate it at.) So I had a custom hitch made up with beefy "C" channel iron that goes up the frame rails about 5' and the reciever portion where the hitch assembly slides into also goes forward about 3-4' to spread the tongue weight forward rather than just twisting the hitch and risking breaking it. There are huge lateral forces from trailers - so part of my hitch has crossmembers to stiffen and strengthen the lateral parts of the frame.
Did I overkill the hitch, yup, but I may tow a stacker trailer that weighs 15K someday.
One more thing to keep in mind is your rear axle weight and ratings. The tongue weight on the hitch will transfer MORE weight to the rear axle and take weight off the front axle based on the distance from the hitch to the rear axle and front axle. (think of it as a teeter totter or a lever. Pushing down on one side (the hitch) puts weight on the fulcrum (rear axle) and causes the other side (front axle) to lift.) A Weight Distribution Hitch will help equalize the weight and is a very good idea. (A must IMHO)
So it can be done, just make sure you have the right components to start with and that you maintain safety margins in everything you do.
Happy RV'ing! (and I'm happy to chat more if you'd like more info)
One other thing I did was to add an Air-Safe hitch that is esentially an airbag suspension between the trailer and the RV - this helps smooth things out and makes the RV not get beat up so hard.
Air Safe hitch
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TDInewguy
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05/22/12 10:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Broken hitch...
The OEM hitches on GM trucks are not known for strength... I've taken mine off and had a custom one welded to the frame - much beefier and ties back into the frame further.
My Itasca Horizon hitch was also just a run of the mill unit - and I tow heavy, so again - I paid to have a super custom hitch made that is probably 10x stronger and adds to the lateral stability of the frame - and it has a very long receiver - so the tongue weight is spread far forward on the frame, not just twisting down on the hitch assy.
Safety first!
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TDInewguy
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05/22/12 10:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What's your rig(+toad) and what's your MPG?
I have a few numbers to share...
My AVERAGE MPG for last year towing my trailer was 7.7MPG - that was my 39' rig at about 26K LBS and towing a 10K LB 30' trailer with a 1966 GTO, golf cart and the kids toys. My speed was usually never under 65MPH - typically I was in the 70-75 range, with some time above that and some below. It seems to hit another sweet spot for power and MPG when I'm above 72MPH - I know about wind drag, but the coach really glides nicely.
When I made a trip in August - MN - NM - UT - MN I was towing a 09 VW Jetta wagon TDI - that trip was a bit better. If I kept the speed to 61-63MPH then I would pretty consistently be 10-10.5MPG (don't believe it? it's true! I've been tracking with my silverleaf AND hand calc to calibrate the silverleaf. I have had the speedometer calibrated to my bigger tires and the silverleaf. hand calc now always jives.)
So my sweet spot is right @ 62mph.
What have I done to help my MPG's?
Synthetic fluids = engine, trans, differential
Michelin Super Single rear tires (yup the 14" wide suckers)
Removed the satellite dish from the roof (less wind drag)
Chopped off the stock muffler and put a straight thru 5" semi truck muffler (donaldson - not that awful Aero 5050XL - I have a lightly used Aero 5050XL if anyone wants - too much drone for me)
My trailer is smaller profile than the coach, so it "fits" into the air hole that the coach punches...
I'm pretty pleased overall with my CAT 3126/Allison 3000 combo
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TDInewguy
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05/08/12 01:01am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: The Un-Official Class A Picture thread
Here are some updated photos... same rig...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/250702_1743672187918_1122138659_31439064_3657445_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/250017_1738995991016_1122138659_31432582_1275901_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/292520_1914229291739_1122138659_31607452_5591341_n.jpg
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TDInewguy
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03/06/12 03:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: STACKER TRAILER
A word of advice - if you are going to tow heavy, take a GOOD HARD LONG look at your trailer hitch and frame of your DP. There is not just tongue weight and trailer weight you are dealing with... there is also the lateral forces of that large trailer on the RV. (side to side force)
I had my 10,000lb hitch removed and a custom (large) hitch built for the RV. it really goes up the frame about 5' forward and there is hefty C channel steel added for strength. My new hitch is rated for 17,000lb... but I don't plan to tow that much.
I also got an AirSAFE hitch - which is just an airbag/shock assembly that goes into the hitch receiver of the RV and softens the blow on the RV from the trailer. It really makes a noticeable difference in the ride.
http://www.airsafehitches.com/
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TDInewguy
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03/06/12 03:39am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How the heck do I drive this dang thang?
When backing into a campsite - don't be afraid to stop, get out, look around (and UP at the trees/branches) and get back in...
Also - use your rear view camera to help you see where you are. I have seen people put marks on the screen so they can line it up when backin up.
I have a 39 1/2' rig and tow a 30' trailer - and I've driven it about 30K miles. it's now second nature.
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TDInewguy
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03/06/12 01:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: If you had a $200k budget.....
I've got kids... a 4 and 6 year old, and I would like to have a bunk model, but we make do quite nicely with my coach. it's a 39 1/2' Itasca Horizon.
my coach is 10 years old and I bought it very right back in 2008. (The NADA value is still higher than I paid for it)
Things to look for -
- a good floor plan that you like and will be functional
- towing capacity... many coaches have a 5000lb limit, I found value in getting a coach with a 10,000lb so I can tow a trailer with a car, golf cart and other "toys" as I take my boys on the Hot Rod Power Tour every year.
- Large tanks! fuel and water and waste
- look at how the coach works with the slides IN - as I travel a lot and need it to be functional and livable with the slides in.
- well insulated... I travel in the winter! dual pane windows, and good heat - including heat pumps in the AC unit.
- DIESEL generator. some had propane which is not a good idea IMHO
Another suggestion - RENT one for a few weeks and use it before you spend $200k - as you will find a lot of things that you like and don't like. You also will find out if your family does well with that type of travelling.
I rented twice - a gas unit first and then a diesel pusher. If you are just going to local places to "camp" then the gas is fine, but if you intend on "travelling" like I do - then I really really suggest the diesel for comfort.
The diesel pusher has the engine brake, air brakes and air suspension which all add up for a less stressful drive.
Good luck and enjoy!
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TDInewguy
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03/05/12 11:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel Toad
I have a 2009 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI with a 6 speed manual and tow it 4 wheels down across the country.
Many VW dealers and info will tell you no... but they also tell you what the US tow ratings are for VW's. I started out with a 2005 VW Passat TDI wagon that was rated to tow something like 2000lb in the usa. in europe the exact same car was rated to two 3960lb.
Guess what? I bought a european hitch and a popup camper and towed about 3300lb with that car all day long.
So - bringing the point back to the 4 wheels down - I talked with the shop foreman at my local VW dealer (one of the largest VW dealers in the midwest) and he said it is 100% fine to tow it 4 down. When the trans is in neutral it will freewheel and there is no lube problems. You just need to leave the key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel and turn the radio off.
I have a Blue Ox towbar and it works fantastic. In fact - I may even consider selling the car. Anyhow - it's a great setup and really easy to tow.
Go for it!
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TDInewguy
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03/05/12 11:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Miles driven in 2011
Let's see...
Jan 2011 - MN - TX (South Padre) with a few stops inbetween - about 3400mi
May/June 2011 - MN - SC - FL - GA - AL - TN - IN - MI - IL - OK - MN a Disney, Hot Rod Power Tour and work conference trip to Tulsa - about 5500mi
Sept 2011 - MN - CO - NM - WY - UT - SD - MN a work trip to Santa Fe, then to Salt Lake City and a few other stops - about 3800mi
A few other trips here and there and I was about 14,000 miles this year... with my 3 and 6 year old boys!
It's been just over a year since mommy passed after a 3 year battle with cancer and we are out blazing our own trail now.
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TDInewguy
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12/30/11 12:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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