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RE: '11 CRV toad lights, how'd you set yours up?
I have wired them both ways but I pefer adding the two additional bulbs. Any time I tie into the toad's wiring system, I worry about damage being done to the toad's wiring system. I understand the odds of that are remote but I figure if it can be totally separate, there will be no chance. I will note that I went back to the diaodes this time. I was told the bulbs would not work for a fit so went with the diodes. Since I have learned that some have have had good luck with the bulbs.
Both systems are fairly simple and the directions I have received have been been clear. For me, the thing I had the most trouble with was running the wires neatly from the front to the back. But not really that bad.
Good Luck
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Stennis
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12/16/11 11:32pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Tell me all about your small C or B+
We got rid of a large A and "I" thought we were through. Wife decided we needed a smaller unit to attend grandsons' ball games. After a B, we got a C. No bedroom but two slides and sofa that converts to queen bed with air matress. With the slides, it is spacious for a small RV. However, when the bed is out, there is no room to move around. Given we would rarely spend nights in it, this did not appear a problem. It is spacious for a small RV. Sounds perfect for you.
It turned out that we never got to a ball game. In January 2010, we learned my wife would require lengthly medical treatments - all outpatient if no complications. Much of the year was spent living in the RV. Putting the bed in and out each day was too much of a hassle. My wife slept on the dinette bed and I slept on the couch.
This has has led me to have different criteria should we ever trade. First, contrary to what someone suggested, I would definitely have the two slides in the living area. Second, I would have a designated, separate bedroom. Spending much of a year taking outpatient treatments in a unit like ours gets old.
None of us expect to face such a situation. However,once anything similar occurs, there is no time or energy to trade RV's.
Some friends had a RV with a second seating area in the rear which could be converted to a private bedroom - this would have been great. Perhaps something to think about.
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Stennis
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12/08/11 10:44pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Newbie with battery boiling issue..**update**....
Bubbling is normal when charging. Perhaps some is normal when isolated and the normal discharge occurs with a sitting battery.
I can tell you this, it is possible for a new battery to have a bad cell. With the "smart" charging systems, if one cell is bad, the system will charge continuously and boil out the battery acid. This happened on a "new motorhome" and that is what I was what the tech sent by the manufacturer told me when he replaced all the batteries.
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Stennis
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10/16/11 02:17pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Battery Disconnect
I am not an expert - perhaps someone will come on to provide some good guidance.
If it were me, I would first pull the switch and see if it is making a connection when depressed. Second, if this is working, I would move on down the line. Just a guess from the sound but I think this switch activates some kind of silanoid (sp) which does the actual switching. Until you get better input, take a look at these two things.
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Stennis
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10/16/11 01:58pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: I'm "in the market" for an RV, some advice, please
What I say may be redundant in that I did not read all posts. Someone suggested a 2000 or newer Ford because it would have a V10 rather than the V8 460. First, many years ago we had a Class A with a 460. No problems with the 460. It was a fairly low end Winnebago Brave but we still remember it as the one we liked best. Second, I do not know the details but I have read on this Forum about some years of the V10 blowing the sparkplugs out. I would check that out. That said, our current Class C has a V10 and I have nothing negative to offer relative to it.
I would suggest that the wheelbase be one of the factors you consider. Our first RV was a short Class A - I think 21-22 foot. Relatively speaking, the wheelbase was even shorter. Its handling was like an amusement ride at Disney World. I think most anyone will tell you that the longer the wheelbase and the less the rear overhang, the better will be driving/handling.
What you suggest is probably what will work best for you. We too purchased our current Class C to fit what we thought were our needs. We sold our Class A and I thought we out of the RV business for good. The RV building was not cold before my wife decided we needed a B to use following the grandsons travel baseball. The B was too small. We got a C with an ample livng area but no bedroom. It was perfect for purpose it was purchased - but that never happened.
In 2010 we spent 100 nights in it and additional days driving. UAMS in Little Rock, AR has what many believe to be the best Multiple Myeloma Center in the world. The program is all outpatient if a patient has someone to serve as a "care giver" (driver/facilitator). This cuts the cost and reduces the chances of picking something up in the hospital.
With two slides, the C was roomy but with the couch folded out to a queen, but one could not walk between the bed and dinette. Rather than fold it out and in each day (it had an electric pump but the air matress was still a pain), I slept on the couch and my wife on the folded down dinette - neither were very comfortable. We stayed in a Corps park for about $300 a month vs. $2000+ for an appartment/hotel with more exposure for her depressed immune system. We thank God for the C but 100 nights in the C was a bit much.
We have no plans to trade for another RV but I can assure you that if we do, it will have a bedroom or one of those U shaped sitting areas in the rear that can be folded down to a decent bed. After what we experienced, I would prefer to hedge my bet. I guess the odds of being in our situation are so small that they are best ignored but I never will again.
Good luck as you search for your "perfect" RV.
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Stennis
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10/13/11 08:36pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Stinky Holding Tanks
My Class A had the tank cleaners and I used them a couple of times. Our C does not. I asked the shop foreman at a RV dealer about adding the tank washers to the C. He told me he would be glad to install them but he did not think it was worth the trouble and expense.
He suggested that after dumping before leaving a campground, add a cup of cheap pine cleaner to each holding tank and 3-4 gallons of water before hitting the road. I think he suggested using Pine Glo from Dollar General. He said this worked as well as anything he had seen.
We dump when we got home and I do think it has done the job the times we used it.
The point about being sure the seals are good is critical advice. That does not just apply to RV's. At the camp, after not visiting for a while, I came in to a very strong odor in one of the baths. As someone suggested, the water had evaporated out of a trap. Since then, I pour a glasse of water down every drain every time I go. I insert stoppers and close the drains on all sinks, lavotories, etc. The same applies to the house in the baths that are not used.
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Stennis
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10/13/11 07:23pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Draining battery
I had a similar problem but it took a bit longer. I hate to admit it but there was a switch for mirror heaters that I did not know what was. When I started tracing it down, I found that the switch was on. Power was not shut off with the ignition off.
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Stennis
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10/12/11 10:00pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Towing Honda Civic 2008 automatic
I tend to agree that Honda (and other manufacturers) is classifying vehicles an non-towable to avoid problems. I have towed two Honda Civic's - one to Alaska and back. Many on this site would say they could not be towed.
If it were me, first, I would investigate whether the Civic had the same transmission as the CR-V, Element, and/or Fit. Second, I would talk to some people who "have actually been there and done that". If I came up with positive answers on both, I would go for it but that is me.
My personal opinion is a few stupid people with the inability to follow proper procedures are making increasingly hard for RVers to obtain vehicles approved for towing four down. I am probably in the first group but no problems yet. Do it right, check, and recheck. I cannot tell you how many times I have stopped after a few miles to check and go through the procedure again.
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Stennis
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09/05/11 04:18pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Malibu With 6 Speed NOT Towable 4 Down UPDATE 9-9-11
Vehicles are like people. Beauty (or ugly) is in the eye of the beholder. That said, of the five dingy's I can recall, an AWD CR-V automatic was our favorite. Not an off-road unit but the AWD handled the few slick spots and the MPG was not bad. With rear seats folded down, it was amazing what it could haul. If we still had the large class A, we would have a CR-V.
We now have a Honda Fit dingy but only because we went to a smaller class C and wanted a lighter dingy.
Both my wife and I preferred to drive it for short trips. Only for long trips did we go for the big car.
If I were again looking for a dingy, a CR-V would certainly one of those considered.
Good luck with the mess GM has made.
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Stennis
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09/05/11 03:45pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Buy Old Tow Bar
We purchased a used Alladin in what appeared to be in good condition. We would purchase used again.
To be safe, when we got it we sent it to Blue Ox for a check up and servicing. They upgraded attaching brackets and serviced. As best I recall, all we paid was the shipping cost to Blue Ox.
There are other good tow bars and companies but we have been pleased with Blue Ox and their equipment (two towbars, four baseplates and five lighting systems). Each to their own.
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Stennis
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09/05/11 03:05pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Please help with transmission questions on my 06 Ford E450.
I have a 450 but do not know if it has the same transmission.
First, I would suggest that you check with a Ford dealer initially for an answer to your specific question.
Second, on on the internet and see if it can be downloaded. I would also call Ford's RV customer service number (on internet) and see if they still have a copy sitting around.
As a last resort, you probably can find someone that will let you copy their manual. If I am not mistaken, a van manual will work.
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Stennis
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08/04/11 09:34pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: What components do I need to tow my Honda CRV?
As you note, people differ on the brand of towbar/base plate they prefer. Other than a homemade rig to accommodate both a towbar and winch on a Jeep, we have had Blue Ox equipment and been quite satisfied. We have also found them to offer good customer support. I think you will find the same for the other leading manufacturers.
My only suggestion is to get a tow bar that is self alligning and which has a mechanism to release the locks on the arms while they are under pressure. The homemade system referred to above had a fixed towbar. One rainny night in a strange campground we got in a tight place and needed to back up to cut shorter. I could not get the towbar off the ball, etc.
The self adjusting with arm releasing mechinism tow bar is well worth the extra cost just for the ease of hooking up. When in a bind, it is priceless.
As suggested, good used equipment is usually available. My wife saved hundreds on our basics. I have done all of the installations.
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Stennis
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07/26/11 07:58pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Who tows an '04 Honda CRV
We have had four toads. One was an automatic, AWD CRV. It would have to be our favorite. It towed well but I think the thing that made it so special was it versitility. I am sure it could not go where the Jeep could but the AWD was there for the three or four times we needed it. Never needed but we knew we had transportation in snow.
We have a Fit now but only because we have a smaller MH and attempted to minimize toad weight.
The biggest problem with a CRV is that it will induce maritial conflict as to gets to drive it everyday. I did not want to put miles on the pickup and neither of us wanted to drive the big car.
Everyone has their favorite toad. It is just a function of our personal needs and tastes. Just as between A's, C's, and B's, whats best for one is not for another. For us, the CRV was perfect.
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Stennis
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07/26/11 07:30pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Severe dinghy instability, please help!!
I cannot offer a lot of assistance but will make a couple of observations. Our first MH was a small Class A with a very short wheelbase. I was like an amusement park ride - especially when meeting or being passed by trucks. I was told and have found it to be true that the longer the wheelbase (both absolutely and relative to total length), the more stable the ride.
If you have a "short" MH and or wheelbase, that could be part of the problem. The toad will be blown differentally from your MH. It will probably have a left and right tendency in oposition to what the MH is experiencing. The Element has a large profile and would tend to induce more instablilty that say a Civic. When we were pulling a Jeep Cherokee, we had a very stable MH. The Cherokee towed very well but it was heavy and provided a lot of surface area for air displaced by trucks to impact. When we put a two door Civic behind the MH, the difference was noticeable.
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Stennis
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07/26/11 07:07pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Stone damage on Toad
We towed for years with nothing more than a skirt on the motorhome. Before going to Alaska, we got a bra for both the MH and the Civic toad. As soon as we got on the roads further north (both Canada and Alaska) it became obvious a hood bra was not enough. Rocks were filling the vent area below the windshield and interfering with wiper use if every single one was not removed.
I do not remember what but we put something over the hood and windshield. I think we tucked a blanket under the hood, up over the windshield, and tucked it in the doors. It worked but was a pain and looked like crap.
Our situation has changed and I doubt we will be doing long trips again. We have a few chips on the air dam but not many on our current Fit. I think we will just go without anything.
If I were you, I would get one of the covers that go all the way up over the windshield. For Alaska, I just got the nose bra because it did not have to be removed to drive the vehicle. If I get another, it will be the big one. Perhaps someone makes one that can do double duty - the nose bra stays and the rest can be added as needed.
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Stennis
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07/26/11 06:45pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Honda not approved to tow now?
I have now towed four Honda's a couple of which some on this site say cannot be towed. I liked them all, Civic, CRV, and Fit. I have never had a problem. If others have done it successfully, I can live with that. I do hate that Honda may not have vehicles approved for towing in the future.
That said, I do not think we should be too hard on Honda. Given the number of people that are not capable of following the towing instructions, I would make the same call if it were me. They are in the business to make a profit - not subsidizing stupidity.
I will agree that a Jeep makes a good toad. However, my Jeep Cherokee was a fairly heavy toad.
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Stennis
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07/10/11 08:37pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Canadain requirements for dingy breaks
I do not know the answer but several years ago we went to Alaska with a toad and did not have a brake system. We did not ask and did not have questions raised by anyone while on the trip.
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Stennis
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07/10/11 08:01pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: What is the best towbar for a 2011 Honda CRV
I was pleased with a Blue Ox Alladin on an earlier model CRV. Equally pleased with one on the Fit we have now.
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Stennis
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07/10/11 07:54pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Newbie and Foreigner has silly questions
First, welcome to the U.S. I hope you meet some natives that are as nice and friendly as Brits we met while visiting in England.
We have had A's and now have a C. There is no doubt that a larger Class A is more liveable (storage and space). Yet, while I am sure some of it has to do with age (71), I find it less tiring and stressful to drive a Class C than a Class A. As I often say, there is more than one correct answer to what is the best type of RV. The answer depends upon what works for the individual. In our case, for many years, it was a Class A. Now it is a Class C but all of the options have their advantages.
Given that you probably will not be keeping the RV long-term, perhaps you need to make future marketability and resell value one of your criteria for selection.
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Stennis
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07/09/11 04:18pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: project dry rot :(
If you can figure a way to keep the air from escaping from where the panel has been freed from the wall, would using compressed air separate the panel from the wall? Seems I have seen this done for separating other things.
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Stennis
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07/09/11 03:24pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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