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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Winterization Package?
I live in a far more moderate climate but I have never winterized - even when I did not have a building. I drained the holding tanks well and put a little antifreeze just to protect the valves (sometimes I just left valves open). I then opened all cabinet doors (including raising the bed if water tank under there) and put a small electric header inside to keep interior well above freezing. I do not recall but I suppose the water heater needs to be drained but I think with the cabinet doors open, it gets more heat from inside than cold from outside (heater could even be directed in that direction). One would just want to be sure that all safety clearances for the heater were observed.
Holding tanks empty and valves open or closed with a little antifreeze, all interior doors and cabinets open, and with heat inside, I think you will make it.
That said, I would want to know if someone who has REAL winters has done this without problems. We do not have very many hard freezes and seldom see zero.
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Stennis
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01/22/12 03:10pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: First purchase
We had a 31' Class A with the 460. It was fairly basic with few frills. Though we have had bigger and smaller, that RV may still be our favorite.
The unit sounds good but, given the age, I would have a professional check the motor, transmission, etc. Also get someone to check all of the RV type equipment.
Good luck.
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Stennis
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01/17/12 10:20am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Looking for a Toad
We have been pleased towing Honda's and have had no problems. We are now towing a Fit but have also towed two Civics and a CRV AWD - all automatics.
As suggested, some say one cannot tow Civic's. Never had a problem. We have towed them many miles including over 10,000 miles to Alaska and back.
A number of years ago we had a Cherokee- a great toad but heavy. Like someone suggested, a Wrangler is a good choice but a bit too rough riding for us.
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Stennis
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01/16/12 09:04pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: CRV tire problems
I think our CRV was a 2002 - I do not know if there were significant changes with the chassis between that model and yours. We put quite a few miles on it - both towing and as a daily driver. I do not recall having any tire problems.
The post that caught my attention was the Honda tech's post about rotating tires - never knew or thought about that. I would think his advice might be good to follow for all toads whether FWD or RWD. It does not cost that much to have tires rotated.
We now have a Honda Fit. I will be getting another rotation.
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Stennis
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01/16/12 11:55am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Best SUV for towing
Not really a true heavy duty SUV and not as large but we had good luck with a Honda CRV (automatic and AWD). Perfect toad and the vehicle we chose to drive even when not on the road.
There are a lot of good options - just a matter of what works best for you.
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Stennis
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01/16/12 11:34am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Fuel Storage Question
I agree on the StaBil or equal. We have three highway vehicles which we do not use much, including the RV. We keep all of these full with pure gasoline (no ethonol). Ethonol is a prescription for disaster with small engines - we most certainly do not run ethonol or store ethonol in the small engines.
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Stennis
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01/15/12 07:10pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: class c prep for Alaska
Unless one limited the movement of something that needs to move, I doubt undercoating with a bed liner would hurt anything. However, to my knowledge, we did not have any problem with the underside.
Also, my guess is that where the rocks regularly hit, it will be removed fairly quickly.
As paranoid as I was and am, I would not do the bedliner.
The best advice I can off is to not start out with a new RV. Get the new thing over with before you start out (both in terms of kinks and fear of the first scratch). Yes, do the mask, rock skirt, and bra things but then just go and enjoy the trip. This comes from someone that spent far TOO much time worrying about the RV. I am sure it would have been a far better trip for my wife without me.
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Stennis
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01/14/12 12:32pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Suggestions For Older Car To Flat Tow
I think we had two Honda Civic toads in the age range you suggest. Both were automatics. If one goes on the Dingy Towing Forum, you will find that some contend there are problems towing the Honda automatics. Personally I just do not accept that. We have towed them (two Civics, a CRV, and now a Fit) many thousands of miles with no problem. However, if you are too stupid or careless to precisely follow the specified towing procedure, do not get a Honda automatic.
Perhaps the CRV was our favorite because of room, versitility, and AWD. The two door coupe was sporty, the lightest weight-wise (approximately 2600#), and got the best gas mileage. I do not think the Fit was available for the years you specify.
If properly serviced, Honda's are good for fairly high mileages. You may can find an older one that has a lot of life left.
Someone suggested a Jeep. We towed a Cherokee with winch and heavy custom towbar (off shelve baseplate not available for both winch and towbar). It towed well and had a fairly simple setup for towing procedure. Due to weight, I would not select it for a small C. Wrangler would be a bit better.
The bottom line is that we have liked all of our dingys. Each had their stong points and were the best in some way. One just has to look at the options and select what will work best for them at the time ("the best" does change with time, age, and personal needs and desires).
There are many other excellent dingys out there. The ones I cite are just the ones with which we have had personal experience.
Earl Stennis
PS: You may want to check with your insurance agent as you chose. We were shocked to find that the two door Civic was classified as a sports car. Perhaps worth it but a jump in insurance cost.
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Stennis
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01/14/12 12:13pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Class C Help
Our first MH was a short Class A. The wheelbase was probably the shortest made in a MH that length. It was like an amusment park ride.
Whether an A or a C, get the longest wheelbase possible for the length of motorhome you get. The longer the wheelbase, the more stable it will be on the road.
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Stennis
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01/11/12 11:29pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: class c prep for Alaska
I only made one trip. I have friends who have gone on a regular basis with TT to fish. Not as bad for some as others.
June may be too early. The roads heave in the winter and it takes them a while to shape them up. We left quite a bit later and I thought we were going to tear up a new A. Someone has surely in a previous post advised relative to the best time to travel.
Driver and all passengers should keep seatbelts secure at all times. Stop for anyone to get out of his or her seat. The road can be going and looking great and all of the sudden one of those dips appears. Even below the speed limit, some dips can put everyone to the top of an A.
I did not have flat but if no spare, get one. It may be hard to find a replacement. Carry in toad.
Bra on toad that goes up and over windshield. A nose bra will allow windshield chips and a wiper slot full of rock. Mask on RV.
Carry only canned goods. On return, U.S. agents took two steaks we brought from home and reindeer from AK. If they check, Canada is the about same. Mad cow scare then –perhaps not now. Cook meat before border – think that works.
You can carry a shotgun with buckshot (for bears if attacked). Must get permit from Canada ($50 about ten years ago). Be sure you have document to show ownership. Reentering U.S., they gave me a hard time because, other than the Canadian permit, I had no ownership papers. Fortunately, we got diverted to a heated argument about the U.S. steaks.
GET HEALTH INSURANCE COVERAGE FOR CANADA. A FRIEND TAKING A CRUSE TO ALASKA WAS HOSPITALIZED BEFORE DEPARTURE FROM CANADA. MEDICARE DOES NOT COVER IN CANADA AND APPARENTLY, MANY OTHER HEALTH POLICIES WILL NOT. YOU ARE SCREWED.
After driving up, I wanted to catch a ferry back. If you want this option, make reservations early.
To my wife's consternation, I was a “been there, done that” type – I did not care to linger. Getting there/back and the RV are fixed costs. The variable costs of staying longer are relatively small. Take your time. This may be your only chance. In our case, we have talked about flying or taking a cruse up and renting an RV (for me, the ALCAN once is enough). Now, that probably will not happen.
Enjoy, your trip. It will be a very special.
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Stennis
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01/11/12 10:41pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Opinions on Toad Protectors
Before we went to Alaska, we got a mask and rear rock gard for the RV. We also got the nose type bra for the dinghy. I am glad we had all of it. However, for dinghy, we should have gotten the type that goes all the way over the windshield. I think we had a few dings in the windshield and the wiper recess would fill with rocks. After a couple of days, added a blanket over the windshild and wiper recess - held by duct tape and the doors.
I would not think about going to Alaska without getting as much frontal protection possible for my RV and dinghy.
We have not used a cover for the dinghy since getting rid of the one that went to Alaska. We have not seen too much damage.
I am of the opinion that height of the vehicle makes a difference. The Cherokee and CRV did not seem to get much damage. The Civics seemed to get many more dings. Our current Fit is getting chewed up pretty bad on the lower front. We do not have a rock guard on the current C and that may explain the increased cosmetic damage.
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Stennis
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01/07/12 12:54am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Tow Bar Question?
I did manage to come close to breaking one of the high price jobs. When I went up onto a road in Canada, I lifted the entire front of a Civic off the ground. I assume I managed to crack where the receiver bar was welded but did not discover it for many miles down the road - and it had not failed. Most people are not that stupid.
We are about the same age but Mowermech is a better man than me. A number of years ago I had a Jeep Cherokee with winch and custom made baseplate and towbar - very heavy (a mounting system for both winch and towing was not available). Even on my flat slab, it was hard hooking up by myself. One could live with that and perhaps the one pictured can be suspended to make it easier.
However, an event late one rainy night in NY made me a believer in the self alligning bars. I was trying to find a site in a hilly, curvy campground. I could not quite make a turn. I could not go forward and I could not go back. The ball was binding hard on one side of the hitch and I could not pull it off. At that time, I could still lift quite a bit but I could not pull it free. It took 30 minutes of crabing or whatever to get it off. I believe that with my Blue Ox Alladin I could have released the pressure. I have never gotten in such a fix again but if for no other reason, I would not have a towbar without a mechanical device to release pressure in such a situation.
As others have said, there are good used deals out there - I think we paid about $350 for ours (had been used once). About a week ago, someone put an add in the paper and gave away an Alladin. I know the man, he would not have been giving away trash. Stuff happens.
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Stennis
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01/06/12 11:48pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: RV Garage Doors
I would go with nothing less than a 12'w x 14'h door - that gives you plenty of room to mess up. Ours is the house type with a remote. It has been fine. We do not heat the building - I leave a 100w bulb on the floor under the holding tanks and keep a small electric heater inside (powered by a direct circuit from the building box) - never winterize.
As for length, as suggested, I would go longer. We had and were going to build for a 31'. The builder talked us into increasing the length. It really does not cost much to add 10-15 feet once started. The upside is that you can accommodate a larger RV. The down side is also that you can accommodate a larger RV. We have a regular 50/30/20 amp box and sewage dump in ours - again not adding much relative to the total and worth the money.
The biggest problem I have is with the six double tube 8' floresent lights. Great when they work. Perhaps I did not get good quality but they just do not work well - always something. Even on top of the RV, that is about as high as one can work (and one has to manuver the RV for that). With my questionable balance, I just do not care to be up there on the RV, a ladder or anything else. I was planning to switch them out with old fashion lights/fixtures but dictators in D.C. nixed that. May still use the old fashion fixtures with the new type lights. With one of those poles, one could do that on a step ladder. Think about that problem before you get old.
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Stennis
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01/02/12 08:48pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: General advice on RVing, please?
When we moved from a larger A to a small C, we too thought we did not need a bedroom. After all, it was just to be used to attend our grandsons' travel baseball.
Before a single ball game, my wife was diagnosed with a diease that required us to spend months far from home taking outpatient treatments. There was no time nor interest in trading the small C. Understand, the C was a blessing. It made it possible to isolate my wife when her immunity was low and saved us thousands on a motel or appartment (places which would have increased her risk of exposure).
Folding down a couch, inflating, and deflating an air matress each day is a pain and did not work. My wife slept on the too-short dinette and I slept on the too-short couch (not folded down). we needed a bedroom for her.
As long as there was also seating in the front, a fold down couch in the rear would be acceptable but I would have an area that could provide a permanent sleeping/rest area.
Each to their own but we will never have another RV without a bedroom. One just does not know what the future might hold.
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Stennis
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12/31/11 10:53pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Sorry Camper
Alright, who has the best spouse? Debating that has about as much merit as debating which type RV is the best. We have had a tent, a travel trailer, A's, and a C. I seriously considered a smaller 5'er (pull it with my pickup and get rid of the C and Honda Fit - but my wife would have divorced me and kept the Fit).
I have thought a lot about the good and bad of each. I do not think anyone can make the selection for anyone else. We are all unique and what fits one of us does not necessarily fit another's preferences and needs. I cannot even agree with myself.
My suggestion is to get all the information you can and make your own decision. Whatever you do, do not think what fits for another will fit for you. Even with the right decision today, you may find that age and circumstances change that.
Good Luck
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Stennis
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12/31/11 09:44pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: fridge problem. freezer gets cold but fridge dont
I cannot help with your question but, as some suggested,I turn mine on at least a day before loading and departing. I will note that mine seems to cool down faster on gas than electric.
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Stennis
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12/26/11 10:50pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: air dream mattress for sleeper sofa
I have the same setup. I do not know anything about the matress you are looking at but for some reason I tried to get some background for the one that is on mine (probably the same as yours). I do not recall the company name but at the time I checked I think the supplier was in Tupelo, MS.
I had no problem fixing a leak and have had no more problems. It does make for comfortable sleep but, personally, I would prefer a matress that would fold up in there and not have to be inflated and deflated.
Good luck on your search for information.
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Stennis
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12/26/11 10:34pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: '11 CRV toad lights, how'd you set yours up?
I have wired them both ways but I pefer adding the two additional bulbs. Any time I tie into the toad's wiring system, I worry about damage being done to the toad's wiring system. I understand the odds of that are remote but I figure if it can be totally separate, there will be no chance. I will note that I went back to the diaodes this time. I was told the bulbs would not work for a fit so went with the diodes. Since I have learned that some have have had good luck with the bulbs.
Both systems are fairly simple and the directions I have received have been been clear. For me, the thing I had the most trouble with was running the wires neatly from the front to the back. But not really that bad.
Good Luck
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Stennis
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12/16/11 11:32pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Tell me all about your small C or B+
We got rid of a large A and "I" thought we were through. Wife decided we needed a smaller unit to attend grandsons' ball games. After a B, we got a C. No bedroom but two slides and sofa that converts to queen bed with air matress. With the slides, it is spacious for a small RV. However, when the bed is out, there is no room to move around. Given we would rarely spend nights in it, this did not appear a problem. It is spacious for a small RV. Sounds perfect for you.
It turned out that we never got to a ball game. In January 2010, we learned my wife would require lengthly medical treatments - all outpatient if no complications. Much of the year was spent living in the RV. Putting the bed in and out each day was too much of a hassle. My wife slept on the dinette bed and I slept on the couch.
This has has led me to have different criteria should we ever trade. First, contrary to what someone suggested, I would definitely have the two slides in the living area. Second, I would have a designated, separate bedroom. Spending much of a year taking outpatient treatments in a unit like ours gets old.
None of us expect to face such a situation. However,once anything similar occurs, there is no time or energy to trade RV's.
Some friends had a RV with a second seating area in the rear which could be converted to a private bedroom - this would have been great. Perhaps something to think about.
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Stennis
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12/08/11 10:44pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Newbie with battery boiling issue..**update**....
Bubbling is normal when charging. Perhaps some is normal when isolated and the normal discharge occurs with a sitting battery.
I can tell you this, it is possible for a new battery to have a bad cell. With the "smart" charging systems, if one cell is bad, the system will charge continuously and boil out the battery acid. This happened on a "new motorhome" and that is what I was what the tech sent by the manufacturer told me when he replaced all the batteries.
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Stennis
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10/16/11 02:17pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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