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RE: Fridge fins icing up
It could be an adjustment or replacement of the thermistor.
The thermistor is a thermal resistor that changes resistance depending on its temperature. It clips onto the fins inside the refrigerator and communicates temperature changes to the appropriate circuit board by the change in its resistance. Normally when a thermistor goes bad it has a very high resistance and causes over cooling.
To test the Dometic thermistor, disconnect it from the main (lower) circuit board and place the other end (sensor end) into a glass of ice water. After a few minutes you should be able to get a resistance reading of 7,000 to 10,000 ohms between the two terminals of the connector. If the resistance isn't close to those numbers, it is bad.
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Rob's
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07/06/11 05:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator Filter
It's not a good idea to block the vent it will just reduce your cooling. More info
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Rob's
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07/04/11 08:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fridge question
Yes your truck will charge the trailers battery on route providing it is fully charged.
To check if your wired
Check wiring here # 4 black - 10 gauge battery charge (+).
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Rob's
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07/01/11 09:32pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Help with the "hard reset" norcold
Read this post hope it helps
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Rob's
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07/01/11 06:04pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Strange Norcold 1200 diagnostic result
The thermistor is a thermal resistor that changes resistance depending on its temperature. It clips onto the fins inside the refrigerator and communicates temperature changes to the appropriate circuit board by the change in its resistance. Normally when a thermistor goes bad it has a very high resistance and causes over cooling.
Norcold Thermistor On Norcold models up to, but not including the 900 series model, the thermistor should have a reading of around 40,000 ohms between the terminals of the connector when the sensor end is place into a glass of ice water.
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Rob's
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06/29/11 08:58pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic RM2652
It sounds like a re-ignitor problem. see this post
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Rob's
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06/21/11 12:17pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold 443 gas flame shutting down
Refrigerator Will Not Ignite Electrically on Propane
1. Check for 12 Volts DC between positive and negative leads at the rear of the refrigerator. If not present, correct source.
2. If 12 Volts DC is present, then check the 3 Amp fuse for continuity. If open, then replace with fuse of same size and rating.
3. If preceding checks did not reveal the cause of malfunction, then access to the control panel is required. The first step in gaining access is to remove the two control knobs, then remove the (6) Phillips head screws. Once the control panel has been removed, you need to remove the (2) Phillips head screws. Then pull the control mounting bracket forward. This allows access to the controls.
4. To check for loose wire connections, set your Volt-Ohm meter to + 25 Volt scale. Check for presence of 12 volts at the Ignitor rocker switch from the center wire of the switch to DC negative. If present, proceed to Step 5.
5. Check for 12 volts at the outlet of the Ignitor switch, making sure the switch is on. If 12 volts is not present between the DC negative and outlet wire, replace the switch. If 12 Volts is present, then proceed to Step 6.
6. Disconnect the spark wire. To gain access to the re-lighter, remove the 2 phillips head screws.
7. Then remove Phillips head screws which retain re-lighter in position. Reconnect the spark wire.
8. With VOM set to + DC 25 Volt scale, check for 12 Volts across + and - terminals. If present, but there is no spark, replace re-lighter.
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Rob's
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06/21/11 11:55am |
Tech Issues
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RE: paralleling two Hondas
Double your power with Parallel Capability
Please note: you can only parallel two identical units together according to Honda.
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Rob's
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06/21/11 11:31am |
Tech Issues
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RE: SBS - Lippert Sealed Bearing System
Sealed bearing system Lippert discontinued these axles
see here
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Rob's
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06/19/11 01:43pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: fridge not workin in gas mode
Read this thread it might help
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Rob's
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06/17/11 01:20pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold N811 Very Poor Cooling
Understanding an RV refrigerator can be tricky and confusing a chemistry class all on it's own. See here
If CORRECT heat or CORRECT ventilation are not present then you will have the same problem with a new refrigerator.
An RV refrigerator doesn't work like a house refrigerator.
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Rob's
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06/08/11 10:46am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold N811 Very Poor Cooling
Doug, don't argue with me 10.5 is right out of Norcold N811 service manual. So if you think Norcold is wrong email them.
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Rob's
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06/06/11 06:36pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold N811 Very Poor Cooling
The system working pressure is 10.5 and 11.5 in. water column. Propane gas pressures below 10.5 in. w.c. or above 11.5 in. w.c. will affect heat output which in turn will affect cooling efficiency.
AUTO AC and AC-Manual Mode operation requires 108 to 132 Vac.
Refrigerators with serial number lower than 854647 heater is rated for 300 Watts/2.7 amps @ 110 Vac and has a resistance of 41.25 ohms.
Refrigerators with serial number 854647 and higher heater is rated for 300 Watts/2.5 amps @ 120 Vac. Heater resistance is 48 ohms.
When poor or no cooling in AUTO AC or AC-Manual Mode, operation is present:
1. Measure AC voltage input to the power board.
2. Measure heater amp draw.
3. If amp draw is not as specified, measure the heater's resistance at ambient temperature.
Rob
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Rob's
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06/06/11 12:12pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Coleman Mach III Run Capacitor
Here are a few numbers I have.
Series 8333C8XX Part No. 1499-5731 Run Capacitor (Comp-45 Mfd/370V) With Tecumseh Compressor
Series 8333 “D” Part No. 1499-5731 Run Capacitor (Comp-45 Mfd/370V)
Series 8333 Part No.1499-5661 Run Capacitor (Comp-25 Mfd/370V)
Rob
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Rob's
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06/03/11 09:15pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: dometic rm2852 not cooling on lp
Correct Heat
The key word here is "correct". The cooling unit needs a precise, CORRECT heat to operate, not just any heat. Too high of a heat will permanently damage the cooling unit. Too low of a heat will cause the cooling unit not to function properly or not to function at all.
Troubleshooting
Usually the best way to troubleshoot the propane system is by using a manometer. A manometer is a gauge that measures gas pressure, but unfortunately most people don't have one, which means they're always working somewhat in the dark, but a lot of problems can be solved by logic and the process of elimination
All gas problems, except for leaks or a blocked chimney, show up in the burner flame. Either the burner is not putting out enough BTUs or is putting out too many BTUs for the situation. Although we've used the term BTU loosely in this section, most mortals will never be able to measure the BTUs of the flame. Just think of BTUs as "the heat output".
Inadequate or No Cooling. If the gas problem is inadequate or no cooling, and electricity is available, always test the refrigerator on electricity to eliminate the cooling unit and venting as possible problems. In other words, if the refrigerator works good on electricity, the cooling unit is good and you can concentrate on the gas problem.
Assuming the cooling unit is good and its requirements are met, the baffle is in place, and the chimney is unobstructed, poor cooling on the gas side is an incorrect flame. That simple. The most common incorrect flame is one that is too small, which is usually caused by a dirty orifice and/or burner. Remove the orifice from the burner assembly and clean it with air pressure or by soaking it in alcohol or paint thinner. DO NOT poke something like a wire through the orifice. This could easily enlarge or ruin the orifice. An enlarged orifice will put out too much heat and eventually damage the cooling unit. If there is sign of sooting or loose rust build up on the burner, blowing air pressure up the chimney and onto the burner area will clean them (protect your eyes when doing this). Don't let any loose particles blow into any open gas connections.
If, after cleaning the orifice, the problem is not solved, the orifice is still not eliminated as a possible suspect. Oil from the propane tank can accumulate around the hole of the orifice attracting dirt and making it very difficult to clean. This is a point where a manometer would come in handy. If you knew for sure that the gas pressure was correct to the orifice, you would know that the orifice is still the problem. Since you're probably working without a manometer, you'll need to make a decision. First, check out the thermostat and filter sections, then, after eliminating those two items as suspects, make a gut decision as to whether or not you want to replace the main LP gas regulator to insure proper input gas pressure or want to replace the orifice. Replace one, test the refrigerator, then replace the other if the first replacement didn't solve the problem. When working without a manometer, this is the logical way to proceed. Also, don't forget the assumptions you made at the beginning of this section and double check them.
A bad thermostat (usually one stuck in by-pass mode) will also cause no cooling.
Rob
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Rob's
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06/01/11 06:49pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator wont run on propane
model #
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Rob's
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05/31/11 07:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator wont run on propane
Orifice and Burner
If, after passing through the other components, propane is delivered to the orifice at the correct pressure (11" water column), a good orifice and burner will produce a healthy, correct, blue flame.
Burner. Not much can go wrong with the burner. It has to be clean and undamaged. The slots of the burner need to be intact.
Orifice. The orifice is the very last component in the propane system before the burner, and has a very precise hole manufactured into it. The orifice and the pressure of the gas passing through it set the size of the burner flame. If one or the other is incorrect, then the flame will not be correct. Usually, if there is a problem, the orifice is dirty. Microscopic debris has accumulated around the hole making it smaller and therefore not the correct size. Also, oil from the propane tank and other propane components can be deposited on the orifice, making it easier for debris to stick to it.
To clean the orifice, first remove it. Sometimes blowing air through the orifice will clean it, but since you already have it out, you should soak it in alcohol or paint thinner (some non-oily solvent) for a few hours to dissolve any oil build up. And, then blow air through it. Do NOT poke anything into the orifice. It is such a precise hole, that you will either accomplish nothing or you will enlarge it and ruin it. There are no orifice bits for RV refrigerator orifices. In fact, there is no apparent logic in the numbering of orifices between manufacturers. A Dometic #58 orifice is roughly equivalent to a Norcold .16 orifice. Sometimes, even after repeated cleanings of the orifice, the flame is still not right and in your heart you feel everything else is right. This is possible. Sometimes an orifice seems to be uncleanable or can be defective. If you can, replace the orifice. If you can't replace the orifice -- keep cleaning. One important thing to note is that if you enlarge the orifice, you will increase the heat output of the flame and ruin the cooling unit Another, rarer problem on metal orifices is that the flow of propane over the years can actually erode the orifice and either make it out of round or enlarge it. In the either case, the orifice has to be replaced.
Other times, you may be in a situation where you can't remove the orifice without damaging it In such a situation, you can attempt to clean it by blowing air through it while it is in place. Do this only from the back side of the orifice and blow towards the burner. If air pressure (which can easily be more than 100 times the pressure of regulated propane) is blown back through the other components of the propane system, they will be damaged.
Many later model refrigerators have a ruby orifice. This is a brass fitting much like any other orifice, except that it has a manufactured ruby embedded into the end of it. The ruby has been precisely laser cut to the correct size. Also, the cut has a jagged edge to give the propane a little twirl as it leaves the orifice. See graphic above. Erosion will not occur on this orifice and you also will not be able to enlarge it by sticking an object through it. You can't enlarge it, but you can break it. If they become dirty, clean as in the section above. Some replacement orifices for older model refrigerators are ruby orifices.
Older Burners like the burners above, propane passes through the small, precise hole of the orifice and jets pass the air hole where it picks up air for a proper burn mixture. There are a few variations on the air hole. Sometimes the orifice is set back from the burner, allowing the propane to pick up air before it enters the burner. Some older burners have adjustment rings around the air hole for fine tuning the burner. The propane/air mixture is released through the screen at the end of the burner where it burns. The screen needs to be intact.
This is the first thing to do. With make and model # I can more specific.
Rob
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Rob's
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05/31/11 02:53pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electric ignitor on RV refrigerator.
The reason R.V. refrigerators are 3-way is to cool down on 110V or LP Gas then when ready to travel switch to 12V just to maintain temp.
Canada
In most provinces, it's law that all appliances and pilot lights must be turned off and cylinder valves closed while traveling.
Contact the provincial or state Motor Vehicle Branch where you own, rent or operate an R.V. or camper to inquire about requirements that may apply to you.
http://www.canadianpropaneassociation.ca/en/propane-safety/rvs-and-campers.html
I can only assume but the location of the fire is in the proximity of the refrigerator.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeokM7wJ33s
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Rob's
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05/28/11 05:55pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hot Water Tank Smell
It's not the anode rod.
FLUSHING YOUR WATER HEATER TO REMOVE THE ROTTEN EGG ODOR
Hydrogen sulfide can result when the protective cladding on the interior of the tank is doing its’ job by preventing corrosion and therefore premature tank failure. The electro galvanic action of the cladding material releases hydrogen from the water. If sulfur or any of its’ combinations are present in the water the two will combine and produce hydrogen sulfide. This compound produces the “rotten egg odor”. Hydrogen sulfide can also be present in your fresh water supply. It is the product of the decay of animal matter and as little as one mg/liter can cause a perceptible odor. Smell the water before starting the flushing procedure. If your fresh water has the rotten egg odor, you will need to find another source of fresh water before flushing and refilling the entire water storage system.
1. Turn off your main water supply - your pump or your water hook up source.
2. Drain your water heater tank. Due to the location of the drain plug, approximately two quarts of water will remain in the bottom of the tank. If while draining the unit you note that it is flowing sporadically or trickling, instead of flowing steadily, we recommend one of two things. First open your pressure-temperature relief valve to allow air into the tank and secondly, take a small gauge wire or coat hanger device and prod through the drain opening to eliminate any obstructions.
3. After thoroughly draining the tank, to remove the smell flush the entire system from water inlet all the way to holding tank. For flush use — four parts vinegar mixed to two parts water If you elect to use air pressure, it may be applied either through the inlet or outlet on the rear of the tank or applied through the pressure-temperature relief valve part. Remove the pressure-temperature relief valve and insert your air pressure through the pressure-temperature relief valve coupling. In either case, with the drain valve open, the air pressure will force the remaining water out of the unit. If air pressure is unavailable, your unit can be flushed with fresh water. Fresh water should be pumped into the tank either with the onboard pump or external water pressure. External pressure may be hosed into the unit either through the inlet or outlet found on the rear of the tank or the pressure-temperature relief valve coupling located on the front of the unit. Continue this flushing process for approximately five minutes allowing ample time for the fresh water to agitate the stagnant water on the bottom of the tank and forcing the deposits through the drain opening.
4. Upon completion of the steps above, replace the drain plug and the pressure-temperature relief valve.
The water heater is designed for use in a Recreation Vehicle. If you use your vehicle frequently or for long periods of time, flushing the water heater several times a year will prolong the life of the storage tank.
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Rob's
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05/28/11 01:45pm |
Tech Issues
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